Timing belt job just done. Blown engine or savable? This is interesting guys!

[JunkCrzr89]

Paint Marker it is! Where do I pick them up, Wall Mart, arts & crafts, auto parts store.?

I get mine from Home Depot, only because the store is <1 mile from my house! But they do have a plentiful assortment of colors, if you're the artsy type want to draw rainbows, unicorns, or whatever your heart desires on bolts...

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC Here's the part number for that pin on a 5vz-fe. I cannot confirm it is the exact same size pin as what's on the 2uz-fe, but hopefully this gives you a starting point at least.

View attachment 2171903

Confirmed, it's a sub for the pressed in 100 series intake cam knock pin .. I ordered three different pins. The 5VZ 90250-05121 looks like a winner.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Confirmed, it's a sub for the pressed in 100 series intake cam knock pin .. I order three different pins. The 5VZ 90250-05121 looks like a winner.

Great to hear! I suspected it would, but couldn’t find anything to confirm.

 

[absalom]

edited

 

[abuck99]

^ Way to own it.

 

[jerryb]

Wow.

 

[2001LC]

We all make mistakes.

He said you asked "What shop it was at". I said tell him ih8mud 2001LC. Did he?

Your wife's engine was nice to offer. I'm sure you and her where happy to find this thread!.

So, when did you find this thread?

 

[absalom]

We all make mistakes.

He said you asked "What shop it was at". I said tell him ih8mud 2001LC. Did he?

Your wife's engine was nice to offer. I'm sure you and her where happy to find this thread!.

So, when did you find this thread?

Found it about two hours ago when I was looking for an archived DIY on immobilizer bypass. Glad she's all fixed up.

 

[Mauser]

Found it about two hours ago when I was looking for an archived DIY on immobilizer bypass. Glad she's all fixed up.

Wow. Takes some testes to admit to a mistake like that. We all make them, but not many would come here and tell everyone. You've gained my respect.

Now I am curious about your immobilizer bypass. I have been looking for a way to bypass the immobilizer for a while now with no luck. I can reflash them, but I would like to know how to bypass them.

 

[brauski]

Thanks!.

Us pilots (I, fixed wing) seem to be more deliberate in our work. Old school navigation took very precise calculation, taking in many variables. Otherwise as you say, people die.

Preach. I fly for a living and one of my favorite quotes is if I were as good at my job as a surgeon is at his, I'd be dead.

Nice work!

 

[dace voit]

I'm the mechanic in question.

Boy, I sure have egg on my face right now. Lots of good lessons learned in this thread. Thanks for being there when I fumbled. Cairo is a good guy, and I would echo what others have said about being a customer for life.

Props for owning this. Not many would.

 

[2001LC]

Found it about two hours ago when I was looking for an archived DIY on immobilizer bypass. Glad she's all fixed up.

Bet you sleep better last knight.

Cairo and his wife did respect that fact you offered your wife's 100 series engine.

I fix so much pro shops and Dealership make procedural mistakes on. I always tell my clients, they need to take back to shop that made the error. Rather than pay me to correct. Shop do not grantee labor, only parts. But still, if an error they usually do take care of just as you offered. But my people rather eat the cost, than deal with it.

Wow. Takes some testes to admit to a mistake like that. We all make them, but not many would come here and tell everyone. You've gained my respect.

Now I am curious about your immobilizer bypass. I have been looking for a way to bypass the immobilizer for a while now with no luck. I can reflash them, but I would like to know how to bypass them.

I agree took some balls.

Here's a bypass. IIRC @ponytl may have been pioneer on this, so look for older post from him also. There may also be a way in tech stream, IDK. But I've seen some that appeared to have been disabled. I've never done or seen the issue, that force this temp bypass solution. Seems it's corrosion in fuse box, which we don't see much of here in Colorado.

My immobilizer fix

I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for...

forum.ih8mud.com

Preach

HAHA and so true.

Military jet in avatar picture! You and your ride?

I had a real passion for flying as a young man, due to my dad being a pilot. Worked my way through Aerospace Department in collage as a student teacher and tutor. It was then, I leaned the value of teaching to others. It forces one to learn the detail. Helping others in this forum helps me in the same way and much more. But nothing teaches like a mistake

It many sound funny. But one of fondest memories of those days in collage. Was passing a navigation test using a Jeppesen manual flight computer. It was long before PC computer, GPS and modern navigation equipment. In it we took many variables into account for dead reckoning. One mistake at any point and the whole test was wrong that point forward. I finished the test in 20 minutes. Hung around the classroom, for next hour waiting on my GF, she was next to finish.

Next day I was called to the Dean of Aerospace departments office (my boss). With a stern face, he asked; how do you think you did on the NAV test. I said, well IDK, I finish kind of quickly. "Why I'm thinking, how bad did I mess up" He said well, the test is graded on a curve. If one question missed, I take that into considerations, as rest is wrong. Two missed, again I take into consideration and so on.
He said I get a 110% grade. I was the first to get it right in his 10'r he's given the test. The collage offered me a job as a professor, it was a proud moment for me. That, although I remember the accomplishment (moment), I could not even take the test today. I would fail even the with curve!

One of my least fondest memories I learned the most form.
It was a mistakes I made, kind of crashed a plane,,,scary stuff. Cost me $500 for subsequent air frame inspection and dent repair from hitting barbwire an a fence post. I learned more from that one mistake, then anything all other lesson in the class room tough me. I still to this day remember, what it tough me!.

I think all stake holders and reads learned form this one. I known I did.

 

[kruisinkid]

if you want to get real fancy, here are actual torque striping pens:
Torque Stripe! Hooooooraayy Torque!

 

[medtro]

Here's a bypass. IIRC @ponytl may have been pioneer on this, so look for older post from him also. There may also be a way in tech stream, IDK. But I've seen some that appeared to have been disabled. I've never done or seen the issue, that force this temp bypass solution. Seems it's corrosion in fuse box, which we don't see much of here in Colorado.

My immobilizer fix

I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for...

forum.ih8mud.com

Sorry to disappoint. That doesn't bypass the immobilizer.

 

[brauski]

Bet you sleep better last knight.

Cairo and his wife did respect that fact you offered your wife's 100 series engine.

I fix so much pro shops and Dealership make procedural mistakes on. I always tell my clients, they need to take back to shop that made the error. Rather than pay me to correct. Shop do not grantee labor, only parts. But still, if an error they usually do take care of just as you offered. But my people rather eat the cost, than deal with it. You need to know, this did cost Cairo more than you returned to him.

I agree took some balls.

Here's a bypass. IIRC @ponytl may have been pioneer on this, so look for older post from him also. There may also be a way in tech stream, IDK. But I've seen some that appeared to have been disabled. I've never done or seen the issue, that force this temp bypass solution. Seems it's corrosion in fuse box, which we don't see much of here in Colorado.

My immobilizer fix

I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for...

forum.ih8mud.com

HAHA and so true.

Military jet in avatar picture! You and your ride?

I had a real passion for flying as a young man, due to my dad being a pilot. Worked my way through Aerospace Department in collage as a student teacher and tutor. It was then, I leaned the value of teaching to others. It forces one to learn the detail. Helping others in this forum helps me in the same way and much more. But nothing teaches like a mistake

It many sound funny. But one of fondest memories of those days in collage. Was passing a navigation test using a Jeppesen manual flight computer. It was long before PC computer, GPS and modern navigation equipment. In it we took many variables into account for dead reckoning. One mistake at any point and the whole test was wrong that point forward. I finished the test in 20 minutes. Hung around the classroom, for next hour waiting on my GF, she was next to finish.

Next day I was called to the Dean of Aerospace departments office (my boss). With a stern face, he asked; how do you think you did on the NAV test. I said, well IDK, I finish kind of quickly. "Why I'm thinking, how bad did I mess up" He said well, the test is graded on a curve. If one question missed, I take that into considerations, as rest is wrong. Two missed, again I take into consideration and so on.
He said I get a 110% grade. I was the first to get it right in his 10'r he's given the test. The collage offered me a job as a professor, it was a proud moment for me. That, although I remember the accomplishment (moment), I could not even take the test today. I would fail even the with curve!

One of my least fondest memories I learned the most form.
It was a mistakes I made, kind of crashed a plane,,,scary stuff. Cost me $500 for subsequent air frame inspection and dent repair from hitting barbwire an a fence post. I learned more from that one mistake, then anything all other lesson in the class room tough me. I still to this day remember, what it tough me!.

I think all stake holders and reads learned form this one. I known I did.

Good eye! That was back when I was a T38 student. Now I'm a T6 instructor, but it's less sexy. Haha

I'm not envious of you old timers, that's rowdy. Would you believe I've never even had to use a manual flight computer?

That being said, I can relate as someone with a civil engineering background. Some of those classes like enviro we'd have equations that flowed on for all 360 degrees of the blackboards around the room. That one variable will always get ya!

 

[2001LC]

Sorry to disappoint. That doesn't bypass the immobilizer.

Duh see what happens when I get off topic. Distraction...is why bolts don't get torqued.......LOL

I was posting the immobilizer bypass for bad fuse box to get operationally (engine started) again.

The mention of tech streams is one I've wondered about for shutting down the immobilize function (not just bypassing the fuse). Is bypassing the system altogether with tech stream settings possible, IDK. But I've hand some 100 series come in. That seem they hand no immobilizer chip. Not something I really looked into. May be they had a hidden chips. As the key did not have chip or any on key ring.

But sorry I even made any mention, as was off topic of me. It was first mention by @absalom in that he was looking into, and just happen upon this thread during his search. Perhaps he best answer what he found, to @Mauser question. See below:

****Now I am curious about your immobilizer bypass. I have been looking for a way to bypass the immobilizer for a while now with no luck. I can reflash them, but I would like to know how to bypass them.

Me I all stock, and shy away from any modification.

Good eye! That was back when I was a T38 student. Now I'm a T6 instructor, but it's less sexy. Haha

I'm not envious of you old timers, that's rowdy. Would you believe I've never even had to use a manual flight computer?

That being said, I can relate as someone with a civil engineering background. Some of those classes like enviro we'd have equations that flowed on for all 360 degrees of the blackboards around the room. That one variable will always get ya!

Now I'm really feeling old. Dank my first computer in flight school was a Texas Instrument calculator cost $500. Today they give away more powerful ones free in a box of Cracker-Jacks. Heck my phone as better app.

Wow T6 Instructor. I know how sharp as a tact that makes you. I'd fly with you any-day.

 

[joshAUST]

I suspect my LC100 has had the immobiliser disabled, as I just got 2x standard keys, with no fobs, when I purschased it s/hand a few years ago.
I've had a look behind the dash in my UZJ100R, and it looks like its got a jumper between two pins on the left hand side ECU...
Haven't looked through the FSM to work out which pins, etc. to date.

 

[2001LC]

if you want to get real fancy, here are actual torque striping pens:
Torque Stripe! Hooooooraayy Torque!

I saw those. Seems slow and more to be used as proof.

I went for fast and easy bolt marker. I just need so I can tell at a glance I torqued. I have torque wrenches by my side during all assembly, always have. If you've watched my threads. You've often seen pictures of them. I've 1/4"inch scale, 3/8", 1/2" and the big boy for crank bolt 3/4" a beast.

My FSM pages are a greasy messes. As they sit at my side for the torque specs. I've always felt I did not need to mark as I torque. I even torque the mundane 10mm bolts like on timing cover, fuel line bracket, coils, etc.

But all it takes is a someone stopping by, a question, text, phone call or to be call in for dinner. That monetary distraction and one may be missed. So true to my statement "I'm starting a new procedure"
I bought this the next day.

I've a case now and seen this in mud more than once. It's where a front caliper mounting bolt comes loose. Not being marked. I've no way to no' Was it torqued in. I've always said "it was not torqued. if it cam loose". But we've a number of these happening.

I now see Toyota has changed it recommendation on the caliper securing bolt. In the 200 series FSM. Toyota have them as non reusable now. Why the change? Could it be they are stretching after torqued in, and when reused, they may then coming loose. Without the mark we've no way to know if torqued. Had it been mark and come loose, we'd know we've an issue that need addressing.

So marking has multiple benefits. I should have started marking many years ago.

I've another 100 series just towed to me. It had a BK 2 head replaced recently. A retired mechanic from Toyota did the job. Listening to store from (Steve the owner) of diagnostic and head R&R. I've no doubt this guy knew his stuff. Just the tools this retired mechanic has, I knew he was seasoned. I was told, cylinder #2 had bad intake valve. But no mention of what caused it or if bent or burned. Bk2 head came from donor, which VIN plate had been removed. It drove fine for about 500 miles. Now something is very wrong, according to what I've been told. Seem a another mechanic got involved after it died. He can't turn the crank. Oh-boy, it's a VVT. By all accounts those are interference.

The Steve, worked along side the mechanic, a friend of his. He did make mention of a digital snap torque wrench. He made no mention of "marking" bolts. Could we have another procedural error.

No mention was made of what caused the intake valve to go bad in first place. We always look for the why. So I'm may have another interesting one on my hands.

But right now I'm working on the restore of Graybeard (see in my signture line and master thread), that I'm behind in posting on. I've also a "big deal brake job". Big deal if it's what I suspect the fix is, so cool. Additionally I've a VVT with the CAT codes. This is issue that I've been wanting to tackle for a few years now, and I got one. Those will come first. If I've time I'll get a thread going on CAT, big deal brake issue and this new no start. I will, but for now back to work on the restore. That is my labor of love.

This Year is starting out very interesting...

The tougher the better.. bring them on! ...

I suspect my LC100 has had the immobiliser disabled, as I just got 2x standard keys, with no fobs, when I purschased it s/hand a few years ago.
I've had a look behind the dash in my UZJ100R, and it looks like its got a jumper between two pins on the left hand side ECU...
Haven't looked through the FSM to work out which pins, etc. to date.

The Toyota or LX keys without fob, due have a chip in them. Does either the console security light not come on with key out? Or the light does not go off with key inserted? Yet it still crank and starts!

@absalom start this discussion with just the mention of it. Seems to be some real interest in it. Perhaps someone should take it over to your thread @Mauser. It just going to get lost in this Timing belt thread. 100 series master key thread

Or start a new thread. Posting picture of your ECU pin jumpers @joshAUST Could be a starting point and maybe someone will know what the jumper is. Not much on a 100 series someone in mud hasn't done.

Could be a good thread. "Immobilize disabling"

 

[kruisinkid]

the actual torque striping pens leave a raised brittle paint, like the craft puff paint from the 90's. i know first hand that every major theme park ride (disney/universal) you will see a stripe with this stuff on every bolt. with just a glance you will get immediate and obvious yes/no if the head/nut has budged. it goes on just as fast as any other pen. nothing slow about it. my former company uses them on the larger custom machines they would build. every construction machine will use this too. try one sometime.

good to see that milwaukee is making paint pens. hope they are cheaper than craft store ones like a pentel or uniball.

 

[2001LC]

the actual torque striping pens leave a raised brittle paint, like the craft puff paint from the 90's. i know first hand that every major theme park ride (disney/universal) you will see a stripe with this stuff on every bolt. with just a glance you will get immediate and obvious yes/no if the head/nut has budged. it goes on just as fast as any other pen. nothing slow about it. my former company uses them on the larger custom machines they would build. every construction machine will use this too. try one sometime.

good to see that milwaukee is making paint pens. hope they are cheaper than craft store ones like a pentel or uniball.

Good to know.

Milwaukee cost $4 or 5. Chose it because they claim tip design to work on rough, dirty oil surfaces time after time.. That and I was at HomeDepot shopping.