If you've owned a boat, a Landcruiser is a piece of cake.
Time to have the engine re-built or replaced.
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If you've owned a boat, a Landcruiser is a piece of cake.
I once pulled my wiring harness under the dash apart(3-4 hrs.) because my cruiser won't start, turned out to be a corroded positive battery terminal. I also have had the same problem with my clear Napa fuel filter which now I change every Spring.
Since your going to take a compression test, also look into leak down tests. I plan on getting one done soon and find a dual gauge leak down tester isn't too bad on the wallet. This can tell you a lot of things and you may find your engine is stronger than you think! Good luck!
Since your going to take a compression test, also look into leak down tests. I plan on getting one done soon and find a dual gauge leak down tester isn't too bad on the wallet. This can tell you a lot of things and you may find your engine is stronger than you think! Good luck!
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Is it possible you have crud in your fuel tank or lines? Perhaps after running for awhile your new filter is getting filled again? Before going engine rebuild, it might behoove you to rehab your tank and fuel lines.
Do you have a 74 distributor? I've read it's best to not hook the 74 USA distributor to vacuum. Cap it and advance timing to 10 degrees.
If you do tear into your carb, take note of the jet sizes. I think you should have a 120 main, 200 secondary and 90 power jets. Might not hurt while it's apart to bump up to bigger jets if you want to tinker with fuel flow. Also, you should take a look at when your secondary kicks in, if it's late, you can bend the linkage so it opens sooner for perhaps more power.
Also, make sure the high speed butterfly doo-hicky is functioning. I think the proper term is high speed valve. It's the one with the counterweight. If it's not flapping open it will restrict flow on the secondary side.
Do you have a 74 distributor? I've read it's best to not hook the 74 USA distributor to vacuum. Cap it and advance timing to 10 degrees.
If you do tear into your carb, take note of the jet sizes. I think you should have a 120 main, 200 secondary and 90 power jets. Might not hurt while it's apart to bump up to bigger jets if you want to tinker with fuel flow. Also, you should take a look at when your secondary kicks in, if it's late, you can bend the linkage so it opens sooner for perhaps more power.
Also, make sure the high speed butterfly doo-hicky is functioning. I think the proper term is high speed valve. It's the one with the counterweight. If it's not flapping open it will restrict flow on the secondary side.
As Huck said, when it dies again, immediately shut the ignition off and check the sight glass... It should be near the midline.
Edit: sorry @thebigredrocker, I missed page two...
But, I would also check your fuel filter regularly until you resolve this... You may have crud in your tank or your fuel lines and your filter may be clogged again.
I'm not familiar with a '69... But, on the later models, the hard fuel lines run along the passenger side frame rail and one hard lines are the low point in the fuel system... Water and crud will accumulate there... If your fuel filter is clogged again, disconnect both ends of the hard lines and spray carb cleaner in them and blow compressed air thru them to clean them out.
Does a '69 have an Idle Control Solenoid (ICS)... And is yours working?
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
I must confess my first compression check was with a cold engine and no airflow to the combustion chambers(closed throttle plates) My numbers were sub par like yours.
I later did a comp check with a well warmed engine and throttle propped open and got 145-150 on my F. I also disconnected my fuel line cause I figured unburnt fuel would wash oil from the pistons.
You might also keep in the back of your mind ditching points and converting to pertronix is considered by many a helpful upgrade. I certainly felt like a considerable power boost was had and don't have to worry about dwell angle anymore. I do have the points in my glove box as a backup. You'll need a vac advance dizzy and a manifold vacuum port. If you have the 74 vac retard dizzy, I don't think pertronix is recommended for that unit. I think 74's have a port on the intake runner.
I later did a comp check with a well warmed engine and throttle propped open and got 145-150 on my F. I also disconnected my fuel line cause I figured unburnt fuel would wash oil from the pistons.
You might also keep in the back of your mind ditching points and converting to pertronix is considered by many a helpful upgrade. I certainly felt like a considerable power boost was had and don't have to worry about dwell angle anymore. I do have the points in my glove box as a backup. You'll need a vac advance dizzy and a manifold vacuum port. If you have the 74 vac retard dizzy, I don't think pertronix is recommended for that unit. I think 74's have a port on the intake runner.
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- #26
I put in a new distributor, coil, wires, etc., when I was working to get it running right after I purchased the truck. I think it is the carb and I have a called into where I bought it to run the scenario by him. I'm betting he's heard these symtoms before and can tell me exactly what the issue is. If not, then I will return to possible cause elimination with fuel lines, etc..
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- #27
Doing some yardwork today, so while in the garage I cranked the 40, brought it to temp and just let it sit and idle. I occasionally rev'ed it, but mostly just left it alone for a little over 20 min. It never skipped a beat?? Ran great. At the end of the run, I re-started it to see if an issue and it cranked right up. I looked in the carborator glass before starting and fuel was at the top of the glass. I could not see the top of the fuel line as it was running so it was full of fuel (but I've never looked at it before so not really sure what I was looking for). I'm still pursuing the carb, but my plan next week (out of town this weekend) is to put some miles on it one day close to home and see if it acts up.
Also installed a mechanical water temp gauge ($13), my cluster gauge always points to hot once the engine is warmed up, but when I stick a meat thermometor in the fins of the radiator, it measures within spec. This gauge will give me some piece of mind with the hot summer coming. During the above run this afternoon, it worked great.
Also installed a mechanical water temp gauge ($13), my cluster gauge always points to hot once the engine is warmed up, but when I stick a meat thermometor in the fins of the radiator, it measures within spec. This gauge will give me some piece of mind with the hot summer coming. During the above run this afternoon, it worked great.
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- #29
Agree, since I bought the truck back in 2012, I've only replaced/cleaned from filter to carb. The tank could be really nasty for all I know.
This thread certainly caught my attention since I had dual tanks on my fj40. I once spent the night on the side of the freeway after several days of chasing the same symptoms. Unable to keep up with city traffic. It turned out to be a badly clogged filter. My vote is you have clogged fuel lines and you may continue to have these intermittent symptoms until you can disconnect the lines at the tank and or at the vapor recovery, if you have one on your truck. Connect a clear bottle to your fuel line Where it joins the pump, and soak it for several days with seafoam repeat this process until it comes out clean
IMHO, more than a few of us have overlooked the fuel lines or rusted fuel tanks when diagnosing carburetor problems
Best o luck!
IMHO, more than a few of us have overlooked the fuel lines or rusted fuel tanks when diagnosing carburetor problems
Best o luck!
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- #31
I looked at the fuel filter (new) today while it was idling and I saw a small piece of dirt floating around. I'll take the time to clean the whole system out next week.
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- #32
Should the gas line in the carb glass always be at midpoint? Mine is always at the top or higher where I cannot see a gas line. I think it has always been there, but I've never really studied it. Thanks!
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- #33
Just want to mention that I only use non-alcohol gas in the 40, in case you guys think I'm in the clear to use different. The guy at the lawnmower shop down the street hates where I buy gas, says it's cheap and dirty, but they are the only ones that have a non-alcohol tank and I've not had a problem in 5 years. He even held up a jar of what he claimed was their gas and it looked nasty; so nasty it discredited his claim in my eyes (looked like made dirty on purpose - could dislike the owners for a totally different reason?) For my other cars (non antique) I only use main oil company brand and it can have up to 10% alcohol.
This is probably your problem. Your float is probably sticking or has lost bouyancy.
Also, I saw some mention of shutting down the engine and quickly checking the sight glass for fuel starvation. I've learned the hard way that this can be very misleading as the cam can still spin enough revolutions to work the fuel pump after you shut off the key. This can easily fool you if your pump still works, but not as well as necessary.
The "quickly turn off the ignition" step is Jim C's way of ensuring the fuel system remains static when the engine dies. It performed flawlessly for me, allowing me to isolate a fuel filter that was allowing air to me sucked into the fuel delivery system, when the secondary kicked in.
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- #36
Yup. It usually is a good indication of a fuel supply problem. I'm just telling ya it isn't fool proof.
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- #38
Just got off the phone with Marshall (Trollhole), he walked me through what to check inside the carb and how to check it. The study of the glass window before, during and after and engine run was instrumental (along with how the engine slowly boggs down in idle and dies) in honing in on what we think is the cause. Thanks to you guys for heading me down that observation path. I going into the carb next week to check out the foat, etal. Will post what I find/do. Also decided to clean the entire fuel system, tank to carb.
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- #39
Today, I flushed the tank and replaced the fuel line from tank to filter. No crud found, the line just looked a little aged so I replaced it. Tomorrow I will fill the tank and crank the engine to make sure there are no leaks at the line connections or at the tank drain plug. If all is OK there, I will move to the carb.
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- #40
Opened the carb, very clean. Adjusted the float and re-installed. Before the fuel line was at the very top of the glass or above; now it is a tad below center line and stays constant at that level. Checked it at idle, then drove around for 20 min, then let is sit and idle some more. Just checked it again 30 min after I shut it down - same level. Engine ran great during the drive around. If the earlier diagnosis (from a member- contributer above) of dumping fuel due to over flow in the bowl is correct (which at this point that appears to be the case), then the issue is resolved.
I really appreciate all the help I received in this forum. And thanks to Marshall at Trollhole for taking the time on the phone to walk me through how to take the top of the carb off, what to watch out for as I did (gasket saving tip), and how to check the float for proper setting.
Looks like I am back up and running.
I really appreciate all the help I received in this forum. And thanks to Marshall at Trollhole for taking the time on the phone to walk me through how to take the top of the carb off, what to watch out for as I did (gasket saving tip), and how to check the float for proper setting.
Looks like I am back up and running.
