My other poor financial decision: 1994 FZJ80 land cruiser

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Still haven’t done my roof yet, but I did finally knock out the rest of the radiator and coolant bypass hoses / rear heater bypass. New heater valve, throttle body clean and gasket, fresh valve cover gasket / spark plug gaskets. That lower bracket bolt on the metal pesky heater hose tube is a nightmare, ended up breaking the bracket and cut it off the new one.
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Got fresh pcv hoses and clamps, new charcoal canister hoses and most of the vaccum lines knocked out. Finally got around to both front and rear pinion seals. Put in the marlin crawler eco seals, Hope they hold up. Rear diff had a concerning amount of sparkles in the oil, no chunks but I’m not sure what to do.

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knuckledragger80 said:
Got fresh pcv hoses and clamps, new charcoal canister hoses and most of the vaccum lines knocked out. Finally got around to both front and rear pinion seals. Put in the marlin crawler eco seals, Hope they hold up. Rear diff had a concerning amount of sparkles in the oil, no chunks but I’m not sure what to do.

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You rebuild the charcoal canister or went aftermarket ?
 
Spent last weekend camping for 3 days. Put a lot of miles on the truck and it hasn’t skipped a beat. Hit lyttle creek yellow post Thursday night, drove to lone pine to spend the night in Alabama hills then drove to big bear. Weather was great and solo camping was nice. Hit gold mountain solo in the morning before driving back to SD. Smashed my muffler pretty good and all my exhaust mounts had broken. Had to cut it after the axel dump and lose the resonator for clearance and lose that weight and leverage. Jerry rig a new mount with some rubber and spare bolts and a step bit. Drive shaft is also compromised from a poor line choice but it’s straight enough for a spare.

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Been hearing a clang in reverse for a while and thought it was u joints. They were fine. Didnt notice the exhaust mounts had failed until they all broke and the muffler was kissing the rear drive shaft ujoints when turning

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Worried I had and exhaust leak after taking that damage. Had a weird start a couple times. Found exhaust leaks on almost every gasket lol. I guess I’ll need a new system.

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The next item you need to address is all the rubber transmission cooler hoses, I just did them on my 94 and they were all original, and soft as sponges, Below is a link on how to change them, and a list of all the items you'll need to do the job,
O

Thread 'Transmission hose replacement using non-OEM parts'

Since I've found this community to be more than helpful in getting my FZJ80 in tip-top shape, I wanted to share some experience replacing the soft transmission hoses using non-OEM parts as almost all are discontinued. This project started after one of the hoses developed a slight tear and sprayed transmission fluid all over the garage floor and in the engine bay. After cleaning everything up and identifying the culprit (it was the return line from the oil cooler to the transmission hard line), given the age of the vehicle (and likely all of the soft transmission lines) I decided to replace...
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Rifleman said:
The next item you need to address is all the rubber transmission cooler hoses, I just did them on my 94 and they were all original, and soft as sponges, Below is a link on how to change them, and a list of all the items you'll need to do the job,
O

Thread 'Transmission hose replacement using non-OEM parts'

Since I've found this community to be more than helpful in getting my FZJ80 in tip-top shape, I wanted to share some experience replacing the soft transmission hoses using non-OEM parts as almost all are discontinued. This project started after one of the hoses developed a slight tear and sprayed transmission fluid all over the garage floor and in the engine bay. After cleaning everything up and identifying the culprit (it was the return line from the oil cooler to the transmission hard line), given the age of the vehicle (and likely all of the soft transmission lines) I decided to replace...
  • Like
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Thank you. Another project on the list
 
Haven’t had a heater since I did my cooling overhaul. Thought maybe I bypassed the front and rear heater when I did the rear heater bypass even though that doesn’t make sense. Turned out I didn’t account for the position of the cable on the heater valve relative to the controls for the water mix valve servo. I have heat in the front again finally. Easy fix. Now I’m dealing with intermittent parking brake light on the dash even though it’s off. Anyone dealt with that?
 
Intermittent parking brake light looks like it was just the brake fluid level hovering around the minimum line and tripping the sensor when sloshing around. Added brake fluid and it seems fine for now.
 
Truck looking great! I've been a body and paint guy for years and have done my fair share of sheet metal welding. As @Broski said sheet metal welding its an art form in itself. Once your get that welder grab yourself a scrap fender or something and cut pieces off it for practice, the set up on the machine is everything.

Another option is a metal bonding product. We used 3M panel bond when de-flaring my buddies LX450 and cut out metal patches and bonded them to in inside of the doors and fenders. Unbelievably strong product and it been done for years with no issues. Certain manufactures don't even allow us to weld on their vehicles anymore everything get bonded and riveted together

www.collisionservices.com

3M™ Automix Panel Bonding Adhesive 08115

Provide solid adhesion to an amazing variety of plastic and metal substrates in the automobile field with the 3M Automix Panel Bonding Adhesive - 08115. Being a two-part epoxy adhesive, it can give you better work-time and performance. It can bond aluminum, cold roll steel, FRP and SMC. When...
www.collisionservices.com

just and option for ya 🍻
 
37s are on. Thing is a whole new animal. Went Dobinsons ims long travel. 3inch springs, ims shocks, adjustable rear arms and delta radius arms 3L. Already had adjustable pan hards, needed to extend diff breathers and brake lines. Thing is even more capable now. Very impressed so far. Still have my 4.88s in the diffs which don’t feel as bad as I was expecting. San Diego 4wheelers have an annual run at superstition mountain that I’ve done the last couple years and I was scrambling to get the truck done in time. Had it on jack stands for a week wrenching after work. Went with nitto muds 37/12.5r17, they grip great and are quieter than expected. Definitely heavy though.
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I already had extended brake lines, but I just installed 6” lift extended brake lines for the extra droop. Had both rear caliper bleeder valves round off and I had to make a couple autozone runs. Installed a “new” junk yard rear drive shaft too. Fixed some of the vibrations I was having.
 
Started my roof repair. Sourced a headliner and the pillar pieces from a junked 95-97. Pulled the old liner out. Definitely see how it’s impossible to put the old ones back. Will post photos of the repair when finished. Front facing mounting holes for the factory roof rack are right above the sun roof. So I’ll have to drop that too unfortunately.

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knuckledragger80 said:
Started my roof repair. Sourced a headliner and the pillar pieces from a junked 95-97. Pulled the old liner out. Definitely see how it’s impossible to put the old ones back. Will post photos of the repair when finished. Front facing mounting holes for the factory roof rack are right above the sun roof. So I’ll have to drop that too unfortunately.

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Nice seats 😁
 
Just found this thread and love it as I probably made a bad financial decision and bought a ‘92 2.5 months ago that needs a lot of work, but besides the money pit, I am loving having it and the project. I am sure it will never be how I really want it, but it’s starting to be a fun journey learning here, searching parts, doing what my son and I can do and then having other things done at a local shop that is really into older LC’s. Just don’t ever want to use the + and = on a calculator.
 
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