Builds The YotaMD Build - Cypress

[suprarx7nut]

Here's what I'm working with. I've already vacuumed up most the debris outside the intake ports. All the "in port" material remains and boy is it dark and tempting to clean...

Now here's the leak that started this whole project.

Next post will have more pics. I'm at the 5 pic limit.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Here's the driver's side. No leaking apparent as installed, but looks like a leak was very close.

And again back to the leaking side. You can see the leak area on the right side.

And back again to the non-leaking driver's side. You can see the right edge looks like it's about to leak, but it had not yet. The red residue is form removing the bypass.

Both sides.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

That’s good work, not many has the guts do this type of nerve racking task esp we’re already talking about the engine here. That bypass gasket leak if not addressed immediately can cause two major things: one is overheating and next is destroying your catalytic converters and downstream O2 sensors as the coolant liquid would run down the exhaust pipe to the CATs. Are you using OEM bypass gaskets? Try to use a blade to scrape the leftover material on the flange before you bed in the gasket, that would help to make a perfect seal.

Took me a good 3 hours to do, but well worth it.

 

[suprarx7nut]

That’s good work, not many has the guts do this type of nerve racking task esp we’re already talking about the engine here. That bypass gasket leak if not addressed immediately can cause two major things: one is overheating and next is destroying your catalytic converters and downstream O2 sensors as the coolant liquid would run down the exhaust pipe to the CATs. Are you using OEM bypass gaskets? Try to use a blade to scrape the leftover material on the flange before you bed in the gasket, that would help to make a perfect seal.

Oh this is cake! As long as the heads stay on, we're not really having fun, yet! Hardest part so far is just the reach, trying to get at those fasteners at the rear of the bay. I've got a topside creeper on the way which should make everything easier and ensure I'm able to clean and place everything just right during reassembly. AHC in low helps, but the back of the engine is still just too far away to easily reach without literally jumping into the engine bay.

OEM gaskets, yes. I'll get the faces really nice and clean prior to install again. I've got some plastic razor blades that should come in handy.

I've got tomorrow night and Wednesday to continue the cleaning and then Friday/Saturday/Sunday will probably be re-assembly.

I've got new CAD software coming in shortly so that I can start up with YotaMD design work again so trying to make the best of this week or so before I have to jump back into CAD to try and fund this whole en-devour!

 

[suprarx7nut]

My new favorite tool:

~$1400 in Toyota Parts. Starter (reman), driver's seatbelt (explosive, whoa), front diff bushings/arms, rear liftgate struts (only $35 bucks each?!?!), hoses and gaskets galore.

Starter removal: Tough to reach, even after air valves were removed. I used a 14mm deep socket and a 1/4 drive ratchet. There's a wire harness in the way that's hard to wrestle out of the way and the bell housing is in the way of a regular socket (ratchet head hits bell housing). The wire harness is also a pain. I left the large cable until last, but the manual states to do that first.

Old starter vs new. The old plunger and contacts were nearly PERFECT. I was amazed. I've never seen a 200k+ mile vehicle with starter contacts this good. If that's the original starter (which I believe it is) that's some incredible design/manufacturing by Toyota to somehow minimize erosion on the contacts like that. Had I known they would be that good, I would have left the old starter in place. I'll clean it up and keep it as a spare now, I guess.

More on next post.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Pass side gasket surface for rear bypass after cleaning, grey scotchbrite (~600 grit) and aluminum polish. Not perfect, but hopefully good enough.

Driver's side:

Pitted Bypass, passenger side. With simple scraping and wipe clean. Not good enough to seal, IMO.

Driver's side. Better, but not perfect. I gouged the sealing surface from handling it somehow. Must have set it down on a bolt.

Passenger side after 800 wetsanding and metal polish. Sandpaper was used with a machinists vice plate (super flat steel plate). Polish done by hand. It's not perfect, but I didn't want to take off much more material for fear of sanding at an angle and creating a new problem. If this fails again later, I'll just buy a new bypass part from Toyota.

Bypass is now installed and valve cover with removed, cleaned and reinstalled with new gasket.

Next on the list is the Air Pump/intake assembly I think. Hoping to get it running this week.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Looks good. Did you drain the existing coolant?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Looks good. Did you drain the existing coolant?

Thermostat forward, yes. Block, no.

I did suck out some debris with a turkey baster before assembling the bypass, though.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

What's wrong with the seatbelt? Is the old one locked up?

 

[suprarx7nut]

What's wrong with the seatbelt? Is the old one locked up?

Dirty, dry and doesn't always retract. I debated trying to clean it, but decided a new belt was worth the time savings and peace of mind. In my experience it's hard to get old belts perfectly clean without risking some compromise of the mechanical properties of the belt. and I just didn't want to screw with it. For $230, a perfect belt sounded like a worthwhile convenience.

 

[gregnash]

Dirty, dry and doesn't always retract. I debated trying to clean it, but decided a new belt was worth the time savings and peace of mind. In my experience it's hard to get old belts perfectly clean without risking some compromise of the mechanical properties of the belt. and I just didn't want to screw with it. For $230, a perfect belt sounded like a worthwhile convenience.

I actually bought one of those mist cleaner attachments for your air compressor from eBay (was like $20) and did my front belts. Think I spent a good hour or so cleaning the two front but it did a significant job cleaning things up. Mind you this is not a heated one and it has been cold enough that the air output by the compressor cools the mist immediately. Before the belts would barely retract at all and now they just need the slightest bit of help at the very end. On top of that the material feels soooooo much softer and nicer now it is crazy. Was well worth the $20 and time.

 

[FxFormat]

You're turning into @2001LC , very meticulous with your work, good job. With all this time and effort, safe to say she's a keeper? There's nothing i enjoy more than seeing people restore these vehicles, in the right hands, they will run forever.

 

[suprarx7nut]

You're turning into @2001LC , very meticulous with your work, good job. With all this time and effort, safe to say she's a keeper? There's nothing i enjoy more than seeing people restore these vehicles, in the right hands, they will run forever.

Haha, I have used a bunch of his threads and pics to help guide me through some of these steps. He may be rubbing off on me. Not a bad thing at all.

I think I'll keep it, yes. It's relatively clean and rust free, which is just about all I could ask for. I'll slip this in here. I bought it for $16k with everything. Sold the tent for 2.5k this weekend. My net purchase price is $13.5k so far and I still have a dual ARB compressor, ARB fridge with frontrunner slide and KISS drawers. I think I made out pretty well. This coolant leak job is an unwelcome surprise, but nothing I can't fix and still be ahead. It's giving me a good chance to familiarize myself with the engine and it's status while base-lining lots of wear items.

If a rust-free 06/07 with 100k miles popped up on local craigslist for $10k, I might be tempted to swap chassis (again), but otherwise, this Cypress 06 is my longterm rig at this point.

 

[suprarx7nut]

She runs again!

 

[suprarx7nut]

Drove around for 10-20 minutes, no coolant leaks, all looks good.

Might still have an oil leak from the passenger cam seal, but hard to say right now. Will have to drive it for a bit to see.

Replaced most the front diff bushings in about an hour! Amazing how fast that is once you know what you're doing and aren't scared to just hammer the hell out of that front bushing. I also bought a new arm from Toyota for the Driver's side mount. That was money well spent compared to my last job's hassle of trying to press that bushing out.

I broke both sides of the front sway bar links. New ones on the way.

Control arm bushings are pretty shot, so I'll need to do those. Might as well do panhard as well.

I LOVE that freshly recovered wheel. Huge kudos to Dallas Custom Steering Wheel. Top notch work.

 

[2001LC]

You did a very nice job on restoring your surfaces preparing for gaskets.

Just for futures reference. With pitting on any coolant gasket surface, 1282B FIPG can be used. Most shop will just squeeze on and assembled within 3 minutes. It can also be applied just into pits, which I prefer. I take a razor and scrape off excess, making surface flat clean within 3 minutes, leave pits filled in after applying. Let it set and cure and assemble after 30 minutes minimum..

One more tip Just for futures reference. I clean the top of engine the very best I can, pre disassembly. I've found more than one with compression issue from dirt entering intake ports during starter or A.I. jobs (pulling intake manifold).

When I see leak at PS timing cover lower halve and reasonably sure it's not from top side of heads, and history shows timing belt job was done in the past. It's usually bolt thread not sealed. The bolt that hold in the timing belt tensioner pulley assembly. Many miss the FSM calls from thread sealer on that one, in fact some FSM (yr depended) call for both pulley bolts to be sealed.. It's threaded into to oil pump housing. It's not a pressure fitting but can weep oil over time.

This is 2001 FSM. See the star!

 

[suprarx7nut]

You did a very nice job on restoring your surfaces preparing for gaskets.

Just for futures reference. With pitting on any coolant gasket surface, 1282B FIPG can be used. Most shop will just squeeze on and assembled within 3 minutes. It can also be applied just into pits, which I prefer. I take a razor and scrape off excess, making surface flat clean within 3 minutes, leave pits filled in after applying. Let it set and cure and assemble after 30 minutes minimum..

One more tip Just for futures reference. I clean the top of engine the very best I can, pre disassembly. I've found more than one with compression issue from dirt entering intake ports during starter or A.I. jobs (pulling intake manifold).

When I see leak at PS timing cover lower halve and reasonably sure it's not from top side of heads, and history shows timing belt job was done in the past. It's usually bolt thread not sealed. The bolt that hold in the timing belt tensioner pulley assembly. Many miss the FSM calls from thread sealer on that one, in fact some FSM (yr depended) call for both pulley bolts to be sealed.. It's threaded into to oil pump housing. It's not a pressure fitting but can weep oil over time.

This is 2001 FSM. See the star!
View attachment 2209088

Good call on the FIPG, that's handy.

Slee did the TB service, so I hope they would have applied the sealant, but I can't be sure.

I did not spend much time cleaning the intake aside from a quick vacuum before manifold removal. Seemed like an awful lot of work to reach in there and actually remove much. I was also thinking I might disturb the debris that was solidified and actually make more of a mess. When I removed it, most the debris around the manifold was hardened and had to be scraped away. I inspected pretty thoroughly after removal and all seemed well. Definitely wasn't as careful as I'd be on a high performance engine, but I think I avoided too much debris for this low stress 2UZ.

 

[suprarx7nut]

King springs are in! Broken wheel stud replaced!

AHC tuning soon to come. Planning on a mild sensor lift right now. Maybe .5-1".

 

[SlowBuild]

King springs are in! Broken wheel stud replaced!

AHC tuning soon to come. Planning on a mild sensor lift right now. Maybe .5-1".

View attachment 2225991

View attachment 2225992

FYI: I maxed out all three sensors in their slots and netted about 3/4” and just enough to bring pressures back to lowest edge of spec with King Springs. And it still was level all around.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Oh, also installed the new driver's seat belt and center console shifter chrome trim. The new seat belt is amazing. No way I wouldn't have been able to revive the old one to anywhere near that level. The new one is very smooth and retracts forcefully. It also looks brand new (duh) which goes a long ways to making the car feel younger.

Between the new steering wheel leather, new shifter surround, new seat belt and upcoming new windshield it'll be feeling like I drove it off the lot (almost)!