Builds The YotaMD Build - Cypress (3 Viewers)

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if you do 2nd battery install in the cab thats really what I want to see! I'll keep watching this thread for sure!




I have a jackery 240 which is lith. ion, but I bought that more so as a portable battery solution. What I would love is a dual battery setup but having the second battery in the cab that runs all aux lights, and accessories probably though a sPOD or switch pro, but would be recharged via the alternator when the truck is running So I dont have to worry about recharging the second battery from an AC plug.

but I put safety first and foremost and if its any cause for concern running high amp cables somewhere into the cab then I dont want to do it.


Not to derail this thread but this is what I have for my power solutions as of right now.

Truck battery for truck purposes, a NOCO gb40 just in case I need a jump and have no one around, and then the Jackery 240 to power things/recharge items to keep my truck battery safe and topped off for starting.

This seems to work fine, but I do want to run some aux lights during camp, and possibly add a fridge at some point and dont want that hooked up to the starting battery.

I think this is a non-issue if some basic principles are followed during installation (fuses, grommets, loom where needed, etc..). Common car stereos require far more power than most overland applications need. I'd be more concerned about a battery failure/fire than the cabling.

I'll try to keep my progress well-documented here. I did a terrible job of documenting my 99 since the key fobs took off. I'll try to be a little better with this LX.
 
I think this is a non-issue if some basic principles are followed during installation (fuses, grommets, loom where needed, etc..). Common car stereos require far more power than most overland applications need. I'd be more concerned about a battery failure/fire than the cabling.

I'll try to keep my progress well-documented here. I did a terrible job of documenting my 99 since the key fobs took off. I'll try to be a little better with this LX.
I hear ya. And maybe that’s where my concerns should lie? The battery hazard vs a wiring hazard.
Regardless I look forward to following your build!
 
Safe to say I found the leak...

IMG_20200115_182610_950.jpg
 
So wait... you literally just got this truck and have a head leak already?

Yup.

I got the rig, ~$3700 tent, ARB fridge, drawers, fridge slider, solar setup, dual ARB compressor all for less than what I was budgeting for the rig. I took a risk and skipped any PPI so this was all semi-planned. Got it up on the lift in my garage and found the big coolant leak right away.

If I can sell some of the parts or subtract their used value from the deal I'm close to a straight swap of my 99LC for this 06LX.

Provided this leak and other unknown issues that will inevitably pop up during baseline don't amount to ~$5k worth of parts and labor pain, I'm coming out pretty far ahead.

Plus, it's a good idea to replace the intake manifold gasket on any of these VVTI motors at this point. Seems like an almost guaranteed air leak with the original gasket.

Keep in mind, I'm a DIY'er with a lift, engine crane, 6 foot trans jack, shop air, filtered air paint booth, etc... in my garage. Not exactly shy about pulling a motor, as long as it's not my daily driver - which this isn't yet. :)
 
Steering wheel pulled and on its way to Dallas Custom. Rewrapping in OEM style leather, maintaining wood. I had to go buy a puller (98% sure I had one, but couldn't find it).

Fuel Injectors pulled and off to FIS in Wheat Ridge, CO for a cleaning/testing.

There's a TON to clean in the engine. The head area is nasty. Lots of oily grime and dirt build up. That'll be a few hours in cleaning alone. Not the most enjoyable labor.

I plan on pulling driver's valve cover so I can replace the gasket. That'll let me take a peek at the cams and check for build up.
 
Steering wheel pulled and on its way to Dallas Custom. Rewrapping in OEM style leather, maintaining wood. I had to go buy a puller (98% sure I had one, but couldn't find it).

Fuel Injectors pulled and off to FIS in Wheat Ridge, CO for a cleaning/testing.

There's a TON to clean in the engine. The head area is nasty. Lots of oily grime and dirt build up. That'll be a few hours in cleaning alone. Not the most enjoyable labor.

I plan on pulling driver's valve cover so I can replace the gasket. That'll let me take a peek at the cams and check for build up.

Any idea on the turn around from Dallas Customs?
 
Serious question about head gasket failures: it seems like common practice around here to pull and replace the whole engine when a head gasket fails. Why?

I ask because coming from the world of Rovers where head gasket failures are common everyone just pulls the head, decks it and reinstalls.
 
Serious question about head gasket failures: it seems like common practice around here to pull and replace the whole engine when a head gasket fails. Why?

I ask because coming from the world of Rovers where head gasket failures are common everyone just pulls the head, decks it and reinstalls.
I come from a similar background. Done a handful of head gaskets on the 7M. Even published a tutorial on my website.

I think it's uncommon on the 2uz because:
1. far as I know, nobody has written a thorough diy tutorial.
2. The 2UZ is ridiculously reliable even at very high mileage. It's very likely a drop in motor will last a long time with little to no rebuilding.
3. 2uz motors are super common compared to the 7M I'm so familiar with. Buying a used 2UZ motor isn't tough. Finding a good used 7M has been difficult for over a decade.

I think over time head gasket repairs will make a lot more sense in this community. As the motors age, the used motors will drop in reliability (even if only slightly) and rebuilding "the devil you know" will get more appealing.
 
In some exciting news for the build and less exciting news for my bank account, a full set of armor and winch from Dissent is officially on order!

In related news, who is in the market for a real nice, trail-ready 99 Land Cruiser?
 
Is it really a failed head gasket or just a coolant leak from the rear plumbing/bypass?
No, not a head gasket leak. Just the rear bypass gaskets. Sorry if I confused anyone between my talk of motor pulling and someone else's head gasket comment.

This appears to just be the coolant bypass at the rear. It looks a lot more scary than it is. I've got parts coming in on the 28th. Should have it all buttoned up and refreshed shortly after that.

*Leak shown in green arrows below.
1579822715027.png
 
That ended up turning out very good.

What did the turn around time end up being?

He received it Jan 21 and had it completed and shipping out on today (27th), so 4 business days. He also adjusted the leather in one area per my request in that time. Very prompt, communicative and professional. 10/10 review from me so far.
 
He received it Jan 21 and had it completed and shipping out on today (27th), so 4 business days. He also adjusted the leather in one area per my request in that time. Very prompt, communicative and professional. 10/10 review from me so far.

Very nice! Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to keep their contact info as I might seek their services later on.
 
No, not a head gasket leak. Just the rear bypass gaskets. Sorry if I confused anyone between my talk of motor pulling and someone else's head gasket comment.

This appears to just be the coolant bypass at the rear. It looks a lot more scary than it is. I've got parts coming in on the 28th. Should have it all buttoned up and refreshed shortly after that.

*Leak shown in green arrows below.
View attachment 2190718
I still remember this picture when I did an overhaul on my intake manifold. Those intake ports where you see the intake valves) stared at me long and I just couldn’t resist servicing it, and so I did:
AF73FD81-CF77-4CB6-8B25-13D55FA13084.jpeg
E9049639-3A02-4B01-AD65-7668535ED8BD.jpeg
AD69C7D0-436C-4689-A555-CD59F21AAFE8.jpeg

I think I used a total of 3 cans of carb cleaner to get this done.

I actually got myself 2 of those water bypass gaskets just in case while it’s already open and I see a small leak I’d go ahead do that too. But it was bone dry, so I just ended up returning the bypass gaskets and got a refund.
 
I still remember this picture when I did an overhaul on my intake manifold. Those intake ports where you see the intake valves) stared at me long and I just couldn’t resist servicing it, and so I did:
View attachment 2194475View attachment 2194476View attachment 2194484
I think I used a total of 3 cans of carb cleaner to get this done.

I actually got myself 2 of those water bypass gaskets just in case while it’s already open and I see a small leak I’d go ahead do that too. But it was bone dry, so I just ended up returning the bypass gaskets and got a refund.

Oh man, now you're tempting me! My heads are gnarly! tons of debris around the intake channels and tons inside the channel.

How did you prevent debris from falling into the valve areas and inevitably into the cylinder and onto the valve seats? That's got me scared to clean them.
 
Oh man, now you're tempting me! My heads are gnarly! tons of debris around the intake channels and tons inside the channel.

How did you prevent debris from falling into the valve areas and inevitably into the cylinder and onto the valve seats? That's got me scared to clean them.
Yeah it was inevitable for the dirt to end up at the bottom where the intake valves are, and some are partially open and would lead to the pistons. I took @2001LC’s advice: used a vacuum cleaner and had the dirt sucked out on each port. That did the trick in collecting those fallen off dirt. Most of that dirt that have been removed by the carb cleaner chemical are also small to be burned in the combustion chamber. Made me sleep well that night. And boy the 2UZ engine just idled smoothly, even smoother than my 2019 honda fit with 3k miles on it.
 

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