Builds The YotaMD Build - Cypress (1 Viewer)

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Excited to follow along. You've got the best year, best color, and best version (LX) so this should end up pretty epic. It just looks so pedestrian with the running boards and stock wheels. Where is the auxiliary battery in your truck? with the AHC I have not found a good spot for a 2nd battery yet. Are you going whole-hog on the Dissent front bumper and getting the bull bar too? Good choice on aluminum!

The PO had the aux battery under the drivers side drawer system wing with a CTEK charger in the factory jack storage cavity. Battery was strapped down to floor. Wires everywhere, haha. Here's a pic (terrible angle, zoomed in too far). It was functional, but boy was it hard to tell where wires were coming and going.

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Bumper, yeah, I like the bull bar. I think he nailed the design on the LX version. The whole point of the bumper is to protect the body work so might as well add on the bars, IMO.
 
I'm a big fan of of the Dissent front and also pro-bull bar. I love the look of the LX bar but always wondered why the middle section is angled outward? I always thought that bar would look far better if it were straight or in line with the light hoops. If I remember correctly he posted a photo on IG showing a bumper on a 1st gen tundra with full hoops its a great design and reminded me of the full hoops I had on my Brute Force Fab bumper I had on my Taco.
 
I'm a big fan of of the Dissent front and also pro-bull bar. I love the look of the LX bar but always wondered why the middle section is angled outward? I always thought that bar would look far better if it were straight or in line with the light hoops. If I remember correctly he posted a photo on IG showing a bumper on a 1st gen tundra with full hoops its a great design and reminded me of the full hoops I had on my Brute Force Fab bumper I had on my Taco.
It's because the hood is a different shape. I also have a Dissent with bull bar I plan to install any minute now actually.
 
Here's a screenshot of AHC from my driveway the other night. Car was nose down on my driveway, so not level. I also tested nose up and pressures were still too high (no screenshot, but I recall the rear was 8.X and the front may have been high 7.X)

I plan on buying King Springs this afternoon as I'm pretty sure I will need those once I add some armor.

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Share some pics once you do! Give me some inspiration!
Well that was easy. Man this thing just looks awesome!!! The hardest part was threading the nuts onto the bolts for the bull bar ends. The bull bar definitely looks better in person than in photos. Will set up lights tomorrow.

You should get the "Angel Eyes" headlights, they are cheap and look way better IMO: https://amzn.to/2vSUngR

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See.... I almost want to buy a cheap used laptop from ebay or local state surplus just so I can get the Toyota TechStream and work on our vehicles.
 
See.... I almost want to buy a cheap used laptop from ebay or local state surplus just so I can get the Toyota TechStream and work on our vehicles.

I use iCarsoft TYTii ($129 on Amazon) works great for AHC, codes, etc. no need to mess with old laptops.
 
Here's a screenshot of AHC from my driveway the other night. Car was nose down on my driveway, so not level. I also tested nose up and pressures were still too high (no screenshot, but I recall the rear was 8.X and the front may have been high 7.X)

I plan on buying King Springs this afternoon as I'm pretty sure I will need those once I add some armor.

View attachment 2178620

This might be useful to you. Here’s part of my cheat sheet I pilfered from @PADDO, I found these numbers pretty accurate for predicting pressure adjustments:

Front:
1 turn (torsion bar): -0.2 MPa
1” height (raise sensor): +2.2 MPa

Rear:
King Spring swap: -3 MPa
1” height (raise sensor): +0.6 MPa (stock springs)
210lbs over axle: +1 MPa (stock springs)
 
Well that was easy. Man this thing just looks awesome!!! The hardest part was threading the nuts onto the bolts for the bull bar ends. The bull bar definitely looks better in person than in photos. Will set up lights tomorrow.

You should get the ebay "Angel Eyes" headlights, they are cheap and look way better IMO.

nbK6npB.jpg


2qcdlSz.jpg

Show me those angel eyes in the evening so I can see what they look like. I'm intrigued!

Did you color-match the wings of the bumper or is that just a grey that looks similar?

Thanks for sharing, that looks amazing!

*One more question: what's your wheel/tire setup? That fitment is very close to what I'd like to target.
 
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This might be useful to you. Here’s part of my cheat sheet I pilfered from @PADDO, I found these numbers pretty accurate for predicting pressure adjustments:

Front:
1 turn (torsion bar): -0.2 MPa
1” height (raise sensor): +2.2 MPa

Rear:
King Spring swap: -3 MPa
1” height (raise sensor): +0.6 MPa (stock springs)
210lbs over axle: +1 MPa (stock springs)

I combed through that thread today and wrote down cliffnotes very similar to your notes on a sticky-note.... And then left the sticky on my desk at work.

Thanks for the summary!
 
I use iCarsoft TYTii ($129 on Amazon) works great for AHC, codes, etc. no need to mess with old laptops.
Does it allow you to add/program/delete keys too? Seems like what the guy was using at the locksmith yesterday and took him a bit, the TechStream seems a bit more straight forward?!
 
Many times on the valve cover you can just torque the bolt down a bit more to get a better seal again. 2001LC has begun to do this on all tune ups that he does.

I have looked at Dallas Custom Steering Wheel to recover my steering wheel. I really want to go with the thicker padding underneath the leather. I don't like how thin the diameter is on the Cruiser steering wheel. All of the steering wheels that are available on Ebay have a wood/leather combo and I definitely don't want that. The previous owner had the wheel repainted for lack of a better word. It sucks. I think this every time I am wheeling it. With as much as I interact with the steering wheel I just want it done in a way that feels right.
 
Many times on the valve cover you can just torque the bolt down a bit more to get a better seal again. 2001LC has begun to do this on all tune ups that he does.

I have looked at Dallas Custom Steering Wheel to recover my steering wheel. I really want to go with the thicker padding underneath the leather. I don't like how thin the diameter is on the Cruiser steering wheel. All of the steering wheels that are available on Ebay have a wood/leather combo and I definitely don't want that. The previous owner had the wheel repainted for lack of a better word. It sucks. I think this every time I am wheeling it. With as much as I interact with the steering wheel I just want it done in a way that feels right.
I would recommend Dallas Custom. Donald Le is the guy I've dealt both times (the owner I assume) and his communication by email is on point. Prompt and professional. The work is outstanding and it's an American small business so I'm all about it.

My Supra wheel was done in alcantara which requires some custom padding due to the material being thinner than leather. The result was OEM perfect. I love it.

I plan on pulling my wheel and sending it his way as soon as I start intake disassembly sometime in the next couple days.
 
Does it allow you to add/program/delete keys too? Seems like what the guy was using at the locksmith yesterday and took him a bit, the TechStream seems a bit more straight forward?!

I’m not sure, it does have an immobilizer menu but my truck battery died last night when I was trying to check. On my 2006LX the keys are so easy to program using the guide in post #6 of the Programming Master Keys thread in the FAQ. Not worth the trouble to plug anything in. However, programming the remote is giving me a lot more trouble and as far as I can tell TYTii does not help with that. I was trying to program the remote when I drained my battery. Open door, close door. Key in, key out. Ignition on, ignition off. For about 30 min.

I have two YotaMD shells I’m wanting to fill if only I can get the remotes to work.

Sorry, build thread I know, end of hijack.
 
I’m not sure, it does have an immobilizer menu but my truck battery died last night when I was trying to check. On my 2006LX the keys are so easy to program using the guide in post #6 of the Programming Master Keys thread in the FAQ. Not worth the trouble to plug anything in. However, programming the remote is giving me a lot more trouble and as far as I can tell TYTii does not help with that. I was trying to program the remote when I drained my battery. Open door, close door. Key in, key out. Ignition on, ignition off. For about 30 min.

I have two YotaMD shells I’m wanting to fill if only I can get the remotes to work.

Sorry, build thread I know, end of hijack.

I'll need to program a new master and sync up the new remote for this 06LX so it's not necesarily off topic anyways. All good!
 
***** However, programming the remote is giving me a lot more trouble and as far as I can tell TYTii does not help with that. I was trying to program the remote when I drained my battery. Open door, close door. Key in, key out. Ignition on, ignition off. For about 30 min.
*****
Sorry, build thread I know, end of hijack.
Since you hijacked the thread..LOL

Make sure you don't have any DTC present or pending. In 07LX which is likely the same in 06-07 LX or LC. The dome fuse powers dome lights, and others. It also power the wireless receiver for the key fob (remote). I tried every variation to program and nothing worked. Then I found a DTC says wireless receiver in op. New dome fuse in RH junction box (rh foot well) and programming was a snap.
 

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