I went from 80lbs corner to 93lbs on my setup now, i didn't notice much in terms of acceleration, but braking wise you can feel you need more distance to bring it to a stop. Also my gas mileage took a 1.5MPG hit, worth the trouble tho i'd say.
Builds The YotaMD Build - Cypress (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter suprarx7nut
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SILVER Star
I hear that. I'm more concerned about longevity than performance in this application though. If the stock wheel/tire comes in at 70lbs, 95lbs is about 35% more weight. The suspension components have to control that extra weight and IMO that's a lot to ask from the bushings, shocks/AHC, etc.
- Thread starter
- #243
That's true. However... those components all last something like 200k miles under normal OEM circumstances. Even if I cut that life by a factor of 50%+, totally worth it in my book. It's a beast of a vehicle. Abuse it how you want and just pay that tax to the car gods as it comes due. Still probably leaves you with longer maintenance intervals than most any other vehicle outside the Land Cruiser family.
Truck looks great for sure. 34.5" is the sweet spot in tire size IMO. Although how on the earth yours are not kissing the washer bottle is a mystery to me. Mine would hit, even if turn too sharp to the right causing the left front to compress!
- Thread starter
- #245
Haha, you know it's funny. Dissent actually reached out to me based on an instagram photo I posted telling me about how easy it was to relocate that bracket right by the washer bottle, as though it was a given that it was a problem (aesthetic or functional).
So far, no contact I've seen, but I haven't looked at that specifically. Might squeeze in a couple more trails this year, but so far it's been all good on the few I've done!
GTV
SILVER Star
His 295/70R17’s are 33.3” (mathematically). Roughly the same height as the ubiquitous 275/70/R18.
Alignment has to do with the washer fluid rub too, some trucks have wheel pushed a little forward causing that rub, i don't rub the pinch weld as much on this truck, but on my last truck i rub that pinch weld area more than i rub the washer.
Reversing while stuffing that driver's side wheel is when you get the most rub, i think removing the plastic liner solved it for me. we'll see how it is out on the trail though when that wheel is stuffed and the back right is floating in the air.
- Thread starter
- #248
Update: Failed to start when hot!
Well frustrating development yesterday. Spent an hour or so driving around town looking at potential future home-buying regions of the Outer suburbs of Denver Metro. Stopped at a gas station. Turned off the car while wife and child went in for the restroom. Ten minutes later I go to fire it up and it stumbles for a few seconds and dies. Strange. Start again, dies even faster. Uh-oh.
Cranked it many more times trying a combo of holding gas pedal down, not, letting it rest for a few minutes, etc... Nothing worked. After around 10 seconds of combined cranking, it would go from slight stumble to absolutely zero stumble and just smooth cranking as though there were no fuel at all. It was only 75F outside so not screaming hot. Coolant temp was 185F and intake temp was ~160F (indicating engine bay was real hot).
The fix: I opened the hood for about 10 minutes, cracked open the fuel filter line, let about a teaspoon of liquid fuel out and re-tightened. Then tried starting again. First try stumbled and died, but the next one took. I revved to about 2500 and slowly let it come back down to idle. Drove perfectly fine the rest of the day and I couldn't replicate the problem when I tried.
Additional notes: I could see fuel vapor pouring from the gas tank filler area in my rear view mirror. There was no pressure in the tank when I vented the gas cap. Seems the tank was just evaporating a ton of fuel.
Conclusion: Fuel rail boiled the fuel and took time to cool down. Cracking the fuel line probably vented some vapor, but also dropped pressure quickly and therefore lowered temp (perhaps negligible?).
Assumed Cause: Fuel too hot in the rail.
Next Steps: inspired by J1000's work, I bought a fuel temp sensor a while back. I'll see where I can plumb that in and get some temp baselines. He found an array of fixes that together brought his temps down. I'd like to do something similar, but more targeted. I've got a thermal camera and a lift. My plan is to get the fuel sensor hooked up as close to the rail as possible and see what situations yield the highest temps. It seems to be sitting after long idles. Then I'll use the thermal camera to hunt the hot spots. The goal being to do one single thing to dramatically improve temps.
Anyways, there ya go. Failed to start for the first time in this 06. My wife is not pleased, haha.
Well frustrating development yesterday. Spent an hour or so driving around town looking at potential future home-buying regions of the Outer suburbs of Denver Metro. Stopped at a gas station. Turned off the car while wife and child went in for the restroom. Ten minutes later I go to fire it up and it stumbles for a few seconds and dies. Strange. Start again, dies even faster. Uh-oh.
Cranked it many more times trying a combo of holding gas pedal down, not, letting it rest for a few minutes, etc... Nothing worked. After around 10 seconds of combined cranking, it would go from slight stumble to absolutely zero stumble and just smooth cranking as though there were no fuel at all. It was only 75F outside so not screaming hot. Coolant temp was 185F and intake temp was ~160F (indicating engine bay was real hot).
The fix: I opened the hood for about 10 minutes, cracked open the fuel filter line, let about a teaspoon of liquid fuel out and re-tightened. Then tried starting again. First try stumbled and died, but the next one took. I revved to about 2500 and slowly let it come back down to idle. Drove perfectly fine the rest of the day and I couldn't replicate the problem when I tried.
Additional notes: I could see fuel vapor pouring from the gas tank filler area in my rear view mirror. There was no pressure in the tank when I vented the gas cap. Seems the tank was just evaporating a ton of fuel.
Conclusion: Fuel rail boiled the fuel and took time to cool down. Cracking the fuel line probably vented some vapor, but also dropped pressure quickly and therefore lowered temp (perhaps negligible?).
Assumed Cause: Fuel too hot in the rail.
Next Steps: inspired by J1000's work, I bought a fuel temp sensor a while back. I'll see where I can plumb that in and get some temp baselines. He found an array of fixes that together brought his temps down. I'd like to do something similar, but more targeted. I've got a thermal camera and a lift. My plan is to get the fuel sensor hooked up as close to the rail as possible and see what situations yield the highest temps. It seems to be sitting after long idles. Then I'll use the thermal camera to hunt the hot spots. The goal being to do one single thing to dramatically improve temps.
Anyways, there ya go. Failed to start for the first time in this 06. My wife is not pleased, haha.
Let me know if I can help Andy?
Some feel all 100 series boil fuel. This is simply not true.
Fuel boiling to point of vapors coming from gas cap. May indicate EVAP damage issue.
1) Could have been from current or prior engine running hot.
2) Fuel tank overfilled (squeeze gas pump nozzle handle, after auto shut-off) at any point in history.
3) Age related.
Those are just a few of the causes/reasons
Also take note the 06/07 have weak fuel pumps, best to R&R as a PM over 150K miles. Typical sign is engine dies once fuel hot, like after running at higher RPMs (fuel pump runs in high speed). Weak fuel pump can starve engine of fuel (run lean), which cause cylinder head temp to climb.
Some feel all 100 series boil fuel. This is simply not true.
Fuel boiling to point of vapors coming from gas cap. May indicate EVAP damage issue.
1) Could have been from current or prior engine running hot.
2) Fuel tank overfilled (squeeze gas pump nozzle handle, after auto shut-off) at any point in history.
3) Age related.
Those are just a few of the causes/reasons
Also take note the 06/07 have weak fuel pumps, best to R&R as a PM over 150K miles. Typical sign is engine dies once fuel hot, like after running at higher RPMs (fuel pump runs in high speed). Weak fuel pump can starve engine of fuel (run lean), which cause cylinder head temp to climb.
- Thread starter
- #250
When I bought the car the po had a denso fuel pump that he included in the sale. I installed that last year. The car has had weak warm starts since I bought it and installing the denso pump did not change anything.
I agree the pump running stronger at start/idle would help. I'd love to see fuel pressure at the rail.
I've also thought about changing the rail fpr as pm.
Evap system may be to blame on the vapor out the tank filler issue, but I'm more concerned with the failure to start (understanding they may be related).
I've noticed fuel vapor collecting just under the fuel door on my 05 LX.Update: Failed to start when hot!
Well frustrating development yesterday. Spent an hour or so driving around town looking at potential future home-buying regions of the Outer suburbs of Denver Metro. Stopped at a gas station. Turned off the car while wife and child went in for the restroom. Ten minutes later I go to fire it up and it stumbles for a few seconds and dies. Strange. Start again, dies even faster. Uh-oh.
Cranked it many more times trying a combo of holding gas pedal down, not, letting it rest for a few minutes, etc... Nothing worked. After around 10 seconds of combined cranking, it would go from slight stumble to absolutely zero stumble and just smooth cranking as though there were no fuel at all. It was only 75F outside so not screaming hot. Coolant temp was 185F and intake temp was ~160F (indicating engine bay was real hot).
The fix: I opened the hood for about 10 minutes, cracked open the fuel filter line, let about a teaspoon of liquid fuel out and re-tightened. Then tried starting again. First try stumbled and died, but the next one took. I revved to about 2500 and slowly let it come back down to idle. Drove perfectly fine the rest of the day and I couldn't replicate the problem when I tried.
Additional notes: I could see fuel vapor pouring from the gas tank filler area in my rear view mirror. There was no pressure in the tank when I vented the gas cap. Seems the tank was just evaporating a ton of fuel.
Conclusion: Fuel rail boiled the fuel and took time to cool down. Cracking the fuel line probably vented some vapor, but also dropped pressure quickly and therefore lowered temp (perhaps negligible?).
Assumed Cause: Fuel too hot in the rail.
Next Steps: inspired by J1000's work, I bought a fuel temp sensor a while back. I'll see where I can plumb that in and get some temp baselines. He found an array of fixes that together brought his temps down. I'd like to do something similar, but more targeted. I've got a thermal camera and a lift. My plan is to get the fuel sensor hooked up as close to the rail as possible and see what situations yield the highest temps. It seems to be sitting after long idles. Then I'll use the thermal camera to hunt the hot spots. The goal being to do one single thing to dramatically improve temps.
Anyways, there ya go. Failed to start for the first time in this 06. My wife is not pleased, haha.
- Thread starter
- #252
Updates:
1. Replaced the FPR. No improvement. Still starts rough when warm. I seem to not have any time to do anything fun with my car lately, but I'd still like to plumb in some test equipment to figure out how to most directly address that.
2. Ridge Grapplers are not good snow tires in very cold temps. We got our first snow/hard freeze and I was setting off ATRAC when setting off from every stop light with just a feather of throttle. Got a little side action on a very modest bend on the highway. Worse than KO2. Not even comparable to dedicated snows like I ran on my 99. I'll probably be picking up a pair of dedicated snows for next season for the factory 18" wheels.
3. Wireless Android Auto on the Grom VL2 is great. Works very well with the one exception that phone calls are often completely dysfunctional. Incoming calls answered through AA silence the incoming caller while the mic still works. Frustrating.
1. Replaced the FPR. No improvement. Still starts rough when warm. I seem to not have any time to do anything fun with my car lately, but I'd still like to plumb in some test equipment to figure out how to most directly address that.
2. Ridge Grapplers are not good snow tires in very cold temps. We got our first snow/hard freeze and I was setting off ATRAC when setting off from every stop light with just a feather of throttle. Got a little side action on a very modest bend on the highway. Worse than KO2. Not even comparable to dedicated snows like I ran on my 99. I'll probably be picking up a pair of dedicated snows for next season for the factory 18" wheels.
3. Wireless Android Auto on the Grom VL2 is great. Works very well with the one exception that phone calls are often completely dysfunctional. Incoming calls answered through AA silence the incoming caller while the mic still works. Frustrating.
Hopefully you'll figure out the rough running issue soon.
I am finding Ridge Grapplers to be inadequate in single digit weather and icy conditions too! I wish I could find some Nokians in 33" size, but it is increasingly looking like I will have to settle for the Blizzaks
I recently switched from KO2s to Falken WildPeaks and have been impressed with their snow/cold weather performance - way better than my old KO2s anyway. We've had a significant dump in the PNW and they have been solid on greasy side streets and highway trips to Whistler. Appreciate they are not dedicated snow boots like the Blizzaks but sharing my .02 for what it is worth.
275/70/r18 (33s) Nokians are one of the most widely available sizes that they make. I run the Studded Hakk LT3 in that size on my LX470 and my 200 series up in Montana.
- Thread starter
- #256
Finally made it out to Moab.
Day one begins...
Day one begins...
- Thread starter
- #258
Little bit of tire squish.
- Thread starter
- #259
Can't seem to get other pics uploaded, but here's one from the end of the day, airring up.
Love the ridge grappler tires at 14psi.
Love the ridge grappler tires at 14psi.
- Thread starter
- #260
A few more Moab pics of this Cypress build finally seeing some good action. I didn't get any good obstacle shots (since I'm driving...), but I'll post up here if I manage to get any from other folks that were on the trail.
The optional stairs on Sevenmile Rim were awesome. Perfect difficulty level for this car (and me). Hard enough that you need careful placement to get up and over, but not so precarious that I felt the fear of rolling.
Having full armor made this trip a blast. 10/10 would recommend armor over lift. Armor it up and drag it over everything.
The optional stairs on Sevenmile Rim were awesome. Perfect difficulty level for this car (and me). Hard enough that you need careful placement to get up and over, but not so precarious that I felt the fear of rolling.
Having full armor made this trip a blast. 10/10 would recommend armor over lift. Armor it up and drag it over everything.
