The Resurection of 'The Beast' (3 Viewers)

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My carb bowl always empties out after two days of sitting. Maybe normal.

Exhaust leak at the manifold will do weird things, heating up the immediate area enough to boil off fuel being one of them. Did you use a Toyota manifold gasket? Aftermarket gaskets are notoriously leaky.
 
My carb bowl always empties out after two days of sitting. Maybe normal.

Exhaust leak at the manifold will do weird things, heating up the immediate area enough to boil off fuel being one of them. Did you use a Toyota manifold gasket? Aftermarket gaskets are notoriously leaky.

Dang Yooper - you are quick!

I did some reading - seems some carbs drain their bowls and some don't. JimC suggested replacing a small O-ring behind the bowl. I'm going to PM him and see if he has one or if he already did that on mine. If he did then I'll dismiss the draining bowl and move on.

Manifold leak - I did use a OEM gasket and had the intake and exhaust manifolds planed together as one piece. Maybe this weekend I'll get time (probably won't) to pull the air cleaner and retorque the manifold bolts. I might also pull the carb and carb isolator thingy to get better access.

:cheers:
 
Leaks at the first manifold/pipe junction are pretty common, might just need some tightening there too.

Wouldn't be surprising to need some retorqueing all over after a bit of driving.
 
Did a little work this evening.

Pulled the air cleaner, carb, heat shield/carb isolator and checked torque on all manifold bolts. All were within spec so I cranked them a weeeeee bit more (think dog snot tight).

I then reassembled everything and cranked her up. She started immediately! (its the little victories that keep me going)

I then sprayed starter fluid around the manifold (near cylinder 5) and didn't get any revving like I did previously....great right? Well, once she warmed up a bit I got some revving with the starter fluid around cylinder 5 but not as much as before the retorquing. I would have thought that as the motor warmed up the manifold and other metal components would expand and therefore would not allow additional leaks but would seal additional leaks - any ideas?

My next step will be to pull the manifold off and install a Remflex gasket. I had the manifolds planed when the 2F was rebuilt.

Enjoy the pics and vid!

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Air cleaner pulled

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This is about where the leak is

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Carb gasket looked OK to me

IMG_0402.jpg

The little green clip just above the carb base and directly in line and below the fuel bowl sometimes leaks fuel out the front - kinda squirts it a bit...is this a concern?

Stupid video won't upload right - I'll add it later.

:cheers:
 
Its not normal or good for fuel to come out of a carb anywhere other than into the engine.
 
Metal parts with complex shapes can change shape in unpredictable ways when they expand with heat. Holes also tend to expand with heat.

I would has FJ40Jim about the green clip leakage. I agree it doesn't sound right.

Engine sure looks good, nice and clean. Except for those ugly red hoses. I hate red hoses. :meh:
 
YouTube - FJ55 Exhaust Manifold Leak

Here is the video. In the video it is pretty hard to hear the engine idling up when I spray the starter fluid. I also ran out of starter fluid but it did idle up - but not as much as before I retorqued the manifold bolts. I also want to let the truck warm up more and try some more starter fluid to see what happens when the Pig is totally up to operating temp.

Thinking a Remflex gasket is the way to go...

What cha think?
 
My next step will be to pull the manifold off and install a Remflex gasket. I had the manifolds planed when the 2F was rebuilt.
The manifolds need to be spotfaced at the mounting holes to seal right. If they were not spotfaced, there is a step between the intake and exh shoulders, so the mounting bolt/nut is only really squishing one half of the combo.

IMG_0402.jpg

The little green clip just above the carb base and directly in line and below the fuel bowl sometimes leaks fuel out the front - kinda squirts it a bit...is this a concern?
No concern. It is normal operation. The green shaft is the primary throttle shaft. There is no seal on it.

Fuel is induced into the airstream above the primary throttle, both from the main circuit and the accel pump. Some fuel plates out on the throttle butterfly, then wicks out along the shaft by capillary action. When the engine is idling or running at cruise, manifold/carb vacuum keeps the fuel from running out the end of the shaft. But when the engine is off, the residual fuel will drip off the end of the shaft. also noticeable when the accel is pumped prior to startup. also noticeable at WOT, because the AP has just shot a load on the butterfly and the manifold vac is essentially zero.
 
The manifolds need to be spotfaced at the mounting holes to seal right. If they were not spotfaced, there is a step between the intake and exh shoulders, so the mounting bolt/nut is only really squishing one half of the combo.

I will ask the question - what is spotfaced? Never heard of this before...
 
10-4 Jim. It mostly happened (if I recall correctly) before start up when the throttle is being pumped - thanks. Very good to know that is one less thing I don't have to worry about.

Yes - what is spot facing? I had the manifolds planed but I wasn't really happy with how it was done - but I had never seen manifolds planed before so I didn't know what was the right or wrong way. (imagine a huge sandpaper belt...)

I have an OEM manifold gasket in there now. Does anyone think a Remflex gasket will fix the problem? I really don't want to have to pay to have additional machine work done on the manifolds and I don't want to have to go back to the machine shop that did the manifold coating and plane work.
 
Google tells me that spot facing is when you machine a flat surface under the bolt head so the bolt head is applying even pressure on both side of the bolt hole - in this case the exhaust and intake manifold. I had the manifold surface where it mates to the block planed but I did not have any spot facing done so the bolt head is only really squishing down one side of the manifold and not the other...drats!

So, do I need to take this manifold to a machine shop or will a Remflex gasket fix my problems?
 
Steve you should be able to just look at both sides of the manifold holes and see if one is bigger than the other. If one is taller then you need to cut some washers down and install them on the short side. If it's not much of a difference then I would sand the washers down untill they were the right thickness. As a note. Stainless steel washers at Lowes tend to be thinner than Zinc plated ones.
 
Steve you should be able to just look at both sides of the manifold holes and see if one is bigger than the other. If one is taller then you need to cut some washers down and install them on the short side. If it's not much of a difference then I would sand the washers down untill they were the right thickness. As a note. Stainless steel washers at Lowes tend to be thinner than Zinc plated ones.

If I do that it will probably be easier to work if I pull the manifold - and if I pull the manifold shouldn't I just go ahead and have a machine shop do the work?

Maybe a combination though of washers and a Remflex gasket - or washers and orange rtv high temp stuff...

still thinking on this...
 
If I do that it will probably be easier to work if I pull the manifold - and if I pull the manifold shouldn't I just go ahead and have a machine shop do the work?

Maybe a combination though of washers and a Remflex gasket - or washers and orange rtv high temp stuff...

still thinking on this...

If you do end up using the Remflex gasket run it dry... no sealant. The burn temps of all the sealants are much lower than the graphite and if they burn off it can lead to leaks.
 
Here are some pics for y'all.

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Breather for gas tank - did exit in A pillar body mount under driver's feet - this was the ONLY hard line that didn't have 100% free movement of air - air would move but not great - so JimC said to do this...

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fuel filter at end of line pulled out for you to see...

SWEET LOOK"N PIGGIN! :beer:

Why not run this breather to the motors air filter intake assemble? Wouldnt it then "dispose" of and put any fumes all in one location?

Not say'n your setup is wrong... just wonder'n
 
Took her for a spin tonight. She sounded a bit better since I torqued the manifold down more. My idle still won't always return to ~ 600 but it seems better now that I worked on the throttle linkage a bit. The throttle linkage was loose at the ball and socket connections (you could force the idle down by pushing down on the linkage) so I used a pair of pliers to crimp down the sockets (4 of em) which seemed to help. Maybe decreasing the exhaust leak helped too.

Thinking hard about just throwing in a Remflex gasket to try and finish off the leak.
 
If I do that it will probably be easier to work if I pull the manifold - and if I pull the manifold shouldn't I just go ahead and have a machine shop do the work?

Maybe a combination though of washers and a Remflex gasket - or washers and orange rtv high temp stuff...

still thinking on this...

Absolutely, try a thick gasket, maybe some combination of high-temp RTV and permatex #1, maybe a random collection of half cut washers.... And then continue to complain on forum about the infernal manifold leaks that plague 2F engines.

Or, once every 30 years, mill & spotface the manifold, and install with the latest updated gasket (felpro/toyota). And quit complaining.
 
But I like complaining! :flipoff2:

I'm hoping to get some time Sunday evening to work on her but a new gasket probably won't be in by then. Oh well, she still is fun to work on and drive. I'm just trying to keep from tearing into anything too far to put her outta commission again for long.

:cheers:
 

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