The Resurection of 'The Beast' (7 Viewers)

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Sorry for the lack of an update - since I've spent so much time on the Pig my wife has me on housework duty.

I'll try and post some pics and vid tomorrow.

She runs...pretty well. I need to work on setting the idle a little lower. Sometimes she is right at 650 or so which is what I want...other times she is up around 1200...most of the times she is high.

I did find out what happens when you go on a 1 hour test drive and your alt is not hooked up...you will LIMP home...barely. :doh:
 
Carb problems continue. Here is a run-down on what is happening...

- Truck starts OK, usually takes a second to crank
- Usually idles around 650 rpm when first cranked
- Drives pretty well right off the bat, doesn't need much warm-up time
- Truck will stall/cut off when slowing down for a turn, stop, etc - this usually happens (it seems) when I'm in 4th, turning around 2k rpm and everything is going nicely, when I push in the clutch to start downshifting and slowing down the truck just dies - DEAD - when this happens it takes just a bit to get her started again. She won't crank right up.
- When she doesn't cut off and I'm coming to s stop or slow turn my idle hardly ever returns to 650 rpm and is almost always over 1000 to 1200 rpm

ETA more info:
- I'm working on tracking this down and have been reading a ton.
- I have a 76 carb but a dizzy from an 83 FJ60. There are two (what appear to me) vacuum lines on the outside of the large cap dizzy. Are these supposed to go somewhere?
- Large cap dizzy has not been recurved for a desmogged motor.
- Carb was from the 76 2F which was desmogged and the carb ran well on that 2F

Trollhole is going to take a look at her over lunch and I'm going to play with it a bit after work.

Pics and video to come - they are on my wife's camera.

:cheers:
 
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Discovered an oil leak from the rear of the backing plate behind the timing cover. I'm hoping that either 1) the little bolts are loose or 2) the bolts that were installed were the long little bolts and not the super short little bolts.

Trollhole just took a quick look at her and found a few problems w/ my carb. We are going to look closer at it later today.
 
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Thanks Troll!

Troll gave my carb a little kick in the seat of the pants yesterday. He took the top off my carb and I had one BB stuck and one passage totally clogged with gunk. We reset my idle and set my timing and the Piggie ran pretty well.

I took about a ten minute test drive and was pretty happy. My idle kept coming up from where we set it around 700 or so to 1100. My throttle linkage is pretty worn so maybe that is it. I'm going to look around for a replacement.

On the way back home though the 'monster' reared its ugly little head. I was doing 55 for about 5 minutes and then put the clutch in to start downshifting and it died again. :eek: This stalling crap seems to happen not in stop and go traffic so much but more often when I've been up to speed and cruisin' for awhile - then I put in the clutch and the tach drops to zero.

Here is what I'm going to do next to try and solve this problem:
1) take the top back off my carb and bend the float a bit to get my fuel level up - I'm currently sitting below the middle of the float bowl
2) check the idle cut off solenoid - I found that issue of TT last night!
3) chant "ohm, cruiser cruiser cruiser ohm"

I need to adjust my valves too but I don't think this will do squat to help my stalling problem.

If none of these work I'll read a bunch more again - then limp her down to ACC to have those guys fix it. I have infinite times more faith in their work than mine!!!

:cheers:
 
:hmm:

Are the clutch hydraulics tied into the brake booster system at all? I'm trying to figure out how you could maybe get a vacuum leak when you disengage the clutch...
 
yooper said:
:hmm:

Are the clutch hydraulics tied into the brake booster system at all? I'm trying to figure out how you could maybe get a vacuum leak when you disengage the clutch...
Click to expand...

I don't think so...

Lets see...clutch line goes from slave up firewall, screws into hard line which goes up firewall, turns a 90 and then feeds into the cab...IIRC...so there shouldn't be any issues there.

What I think might be most telling is the Piggie most often won't cut off in stop and go traffic - it cuts off after I've been up to speed for awhile 'cruisin' and then put in the clutch to slow down for a turn/stop.
 
eventhough said:
I don't think so...

Lets see...clutch line goes from slave up firewall, screws into hard line which goes up firewall, turns a 90 and then feeds into the cab...IIRC...so there shouldn't be any issues there.

What I think might be most telling is the Piggie most often won't cut off in stop and go traffic - it cuts off after I've been up to speed for awhile 'cruisin' and then put in the clutch to slow down for a turn/stop.
Click to expand...

Yeah I didn't think so, the clutch is independent hydraulically and doesn't need a boost.

:hmm:

Presumably you've been decelerating a bit when you push the clutch in to downshift. And obviously you're letting up on the gas. Sounds like a fuel / carb issue. Just don't know what....

Check to make sure the choke valve is opening all the way...
 
yooper said:
Yeah I didn't think so, the clutch is independent hydraulically and doesn't need a boost.

:hmm:

Presumably you've been decelerating a bit when you push the clutch in to downshift. And obviously you're letting up on the gas. Sounds like a fuel / carb issue. Just don't know what....

Check to make sure the choke valve is opening all the way...
Click to expand...

My choke has been sticking a bit but it has been closed when this happens.

My fuel is a bit low in the float bowl. I'll try to get some time later this week to take the top off of the carb and bend the float to adjust the level up a bit. Maybe with the fuel level being too low in the float the decel is causing fuel starvation?

She runs pretty good at speed. She doesn't have a ton of power but it is a 2F... I just have to get this stall figured out...
 
The carb needs cleaned out. It sat for a while and the gasoline & dirt turned to pudding inside the small passages.

Cruiser brakes and Cruiser steering can't generate enough G-force to slosh the fuel away from the jets & cause a stall.
 
FJ40Jim said:
The carb needs cleaned out. It sat for a while and the gasoline & dirt turned to pudding inside the small passages.
Click to expand...

Trollhole took the top of the carb off yesterday afternoon and cleaned things out pretty well (we thought). One BB was stuck in place and one passage was totally clogged. I'm trying to avoid having a full rebuild done (would go to you Jim) but I feel that might be the solution. If it has to be rebuilt I'll have to hold off for a couple of months. I've dropped enough coin lately and the wife would kill me.

ETA - ah what the heck - email sent to Jim about a rebuild...
 
Steve my guess is the bottom passageways are clogged from it sitting with gas in it. ALso the float level is barely showing in the glass. That carb was not in good shape. I too reccomend a JimC rebuild.
 
I might just try the carb rebuild myself - the kits are about $30-60. If I F it up I'll ship it off to Jim or ACC.

I have found two sources for rebuild kits.

Cruiser Outfitters (Kurt) for $30

CCOT for $60

I read that Kurt's kit was better quality but the CCOT kit had more parts...I'm leaning towards the CCOT kit just b/c it has more parts but I haven't decided. Also, Kurt's kits along with a couple other sources break down the kits almost to the year, where as the CCOT kit includes several years per kit...

Any suggestions?
 
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Jim, What is your current turnaround time for a carb?
 
Here are some pics and vid of the 2F starting up for its first time.











DSC02618.jpg


DSC02620.jpg


DSC02624.jpg
 
eventhough said:
I might just try the carb rebuild myself - the kits are about $30-60. If I F it up I'll ship it off to Jim or ACC.

I have found two sources for rebuild kits.

Cruiser Outfitters (Kurt) for $30

CCOT for $60

I read that Kurt's kit was better quality but the CCOT kit had more parts...I'm leaning towards the CCOT kit just b/c it has more parts but I haven't decided. Also, Kurt's kits along with a couple other sources break down the kits almost to the year, where as the CCOT kit includes several years per kit...

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

More parts? Either kit has enough parts. The CCOT kit has more unneeded parts. The Keyster kit has enough parts.

The CCOT kit is available from FLAPS for 1/2 their price.
RIGHT HERE is a supplier that is local and cheaper.
 
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