The Resurection of 'The Beast' (1 Viewer)

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71-CRUISER said:
Jim, What is your current turnaround time for a carb?
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Still 4-5 weeks. :frown:
Less if there is a core carb here to trade when the customer sends in their original.
 
FJ40Jim said:
More parts? Either kit has enough parts. The CCOT kit has more unneeded parts. The Keyster kit has enough parts.

The CCOT kit is available from FLAPS for 1/2 their price.
RIGHT HERE is a supplier that is local and cheaper.
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Jim - which kit would you recommend? The kit from Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters or the kit from Napa you linked? I've been told a lot of the kits from NAPA, Advance etc have parts that don't match up well...
 
FJ40Jim said:
Note that I am not pimping my rebuildification service

I'm just saying it needs torn down, soaked in methylene cloride and blown out w/ compressed air.
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No it needs more than just to be torn down and soaked and cleaned. It has some serious issues. It's missing washers on the linkages that hold them in line. Right now everything just flops around. The choke cable holder was bent up and straight. The main issue I saw was his secondary vacuum actuator was really bent. Like someone took a pair of pliers and twisted it. Don't ever recall one that was supposed to be in that shape. Also the distributor port was plugged. The float is way off. You can barely see fuel in the glass. The accelerator plunger was worn. Plus the linkage to the carb is worn out. It will never idle correctly because the linkage is in such bad shape. Okay if you don't care about it being between 600-1000 rpms.

It needs to be rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing and that ain't me or Steve.

Jim. Since it's a 76 carb does it have the correct port for vacuum advance? Also the distributor is out of an 83 fj60. I connected both ports together and then went to the carb. I couldn't remember if it was a dual advance or retard and advance. If so which port should we use outer or inner?

Basically Steve has a brand new motor and he wasn't jumping out of his seat to tell me how much more power it has than his old motor. Which leads me to believe it ain't got a good running carb and distributor on it. When I looked at it the other day it didn't even have the distributor hooked up to a vacuum source at all. When we did hook it up he couldn't tell any difference. That has me worried.
 
eventhough said:
Jim - which kit would you recommend? The kit from Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters or the kit from Napa you linked? I've been told a lot of the kits from NAPA, Advance etc have parts that don't match up well...
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Keyster kit has a good AP plunger & boot, has jets (may not be right ones), but has steel needle.

NAPA kit has viton needle, better gaskets, but no jets and the AP boot doesn't last as long.

Pick one.
 
Dude. Send it to Jim. Use one of his cores if you're in a hurry. You will get back a ready-to-bolt-on carb that will last you many trouble free years. While you're waiting get new linkage. Actually Jim might have that too.
 
I gotta second Yooper's opinion. If your carb is FUBARed, send it to Jim. Really, it's worth the time and the money. Maybe you can borrow one from someone in the club if you really want the pig at Spring Fling.
 
Trollhole said:
No it needs more than just to be torn down and soaked and cleaned. It has some serious issues. It's missing washers on the linkages that hold them in line. Right now everything just flops around. The choke cable holder was bent up and straight.
It needs to be rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing and that ain't me or Steve.

Since it's a 76 carb does it have the correct port for vacuum advance?
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Yes, one of the fittings on a 76 federal carb is ported vacuum.

Also the distributor is out of an 83 fj60. I connected both ports together and then went to the carb. I couldn't remember if it was a dual advance or retard and advance. If so which port should we use outer or inner?
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The 79-87 USA dissys are all dual vac advance.
Use either port, but don't use them both. Inner is ~20*, outer is ~7*.

Basically Steve has a brand new motor and he wasn't jumping out of his seat to tell me how much more power it has than his old motor. Which leads me to believe it ain't got a good running carb and distributor on it. When I looked at it the other day it didn't even have the distributor hooked up to a vacuum source at all. When we did hook it up he couldn't tell any difference. That has me worried.
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Putting together an engine is the (relatively) easy part. Getting the engine management system dialed in is what makes it run good, but that is the hard part.
 
100% with Heather.........when we talked today; drove over 200 miles today in crappy weather with a recently rebuilt carb from JC + a JC rebuilt dizzy........before JC was getting 10-12 MPG....today got 15.53 MPG running interstate + town on 9.5/33/15s + 3.7 rear end:steer: it is a no brainer for me....either JC or Mark A. ........I owe them both:)

Lou

k9crazy said:
I gotta second Yooper's opinion. If your carb is FUBARed, send it to Jim. Really, it's worth the time and the money. Maybe you can borrow one from someone in the club if you really want the pig at Spring Fling.
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Dang! I just got pimp slapped by Troll, Yooper, k9 and Lou!!! :flipoff2:

I emailed JimC a few minutes ago about a rebuild. I'm hoping he already has a carb rebuilt ready to ship... :D

I need to unhook one of my vac advances on the dizzy. I believe the inner is 20* and the outer 7*. I saw some pics on MUD where people ran the 20* and not the 7* - I'll try that to start. :doh:

I should probably have Jim recurve my dizzy too but I'm going to have to hold off on that until I recover from the 2F and carb rebuild. :crybaby:

Troll is checking his parts stash for the linkage. I have one MUDer who has it but would have to ship. :clap:

:cheers:
 
:steer:heck....naw........just seeing and learning from all the work you have put into the "Beast" and trying to save you a few of the mistakes and snags I have personally hit:bang::crybaby:

Lou
 
On average (by far) I've done just about everything on my Pig twice. The first time I mess it up and the second time I do it right (or close enough). I've even done a few things three times (tire swing arm).

Looks like this time I'm only going to do the carb once!
 
I cut off my Jerry can rack yesterday and rewelded it (straight-ish this time) - I saw Trollhole and k9crazy pointing at it a few weekends ago... :flipoff2:

I went to put down my rear window to put the tailgate down and finish routing my rear axle breather and....nothing. The tailgate tries to move just a bit but goes nowhere. I'm wondering if my little plastic gear finally went. I'll tear into it hopefully this weekend.

:cheers:
 
eventhough said:
I cut off my Jerry can rack yesterday and rewelded it (straight-ish this time) - I saw Trollhole and k9crazy pointing at it a few weekends ago... :flipoff2:

I went to put down my rear window to put the tailgate down and finish routing my rear axle breather and....nothing. The tailgate tries to move just a bit but goes nowhere. I'm wondering if my little plastic gear finally went. I'll tear into it hopefully this weekend.

:cheers:
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It did that to me one spring and it was just a little corrosion in the motor from sitting idle for months - opened it up, broke it loose, used a little dielectric grease, and it was back to being scary fast again.
 
yooper said:
It did that to me one spring and it was just a little corrosion in the motor from sitting idle for months - opened it up, broke it loose, used a little dielectric grease, and it was back to being scary fast again.
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Gotcha - it worked for me a week or so ago when I pulled the carb. I had a total of about 10 secs to work on the window last night so I'll try to tear into it this weekend (between spreading pine straw and planting flowers :hillbilly:).

ETA: I also tried to bolt up a stock Pig skidplate this weekend without any luck. My exhaust is routed such that it blocks the skidplate. I'll have to get the exhaust modified slightly.

I also tried to reinstall what I call a 'splash guard' on the passenger frame rail in the engine compartment that shields the fuel filter and some other stuff - but the 83 2F has a oil cooler that the 76 2F does not which blocks the splash guard. I'm thinking about cutting out part of the splash guard to allow it to bolt back up.
 
eventhough said:
Gotcha - it worked for me a week or so ago when I pulled the carb. I had a total of about 10 secs to work on the window last night so I'll try to tear into it this weekend (between spreading pine straw and planting flowers :hillbilly:).

ETA: I also tried to bolt up a stock Pig skidplate this weekend without any luck. My exhaust is routed such that it blocks the skidplate. I'll have to get the exhaust modified slightly.

I also tried to reinstall what I call a 'splash guard' on the passenger frame rail in the engine compartment that shields the fuel filter and some other stuff - but the 83 2F has a oil cooler that the 76 2F does not which blocks the splash guard. I'm thinking about cutting out part of the splash guard to allow it to bolt back up.
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:o

I'm writing myself a note to send you the skidplate/splashguard thing I've got...
 
My ingenious idea of mixing some texture stuff with Rustoleum paint and then painting the headliner area...well...it sucked. Didn't work a bit.

So out came the raddle cans and two cans of paint later it is painted.

I pulled the tailgate cover and had the wife try to roll the tailgate down. You can hear something try to engage but there is zero movement. I last used it about one or two weeks ago and it worked fine all the way up. I did some reading and it looked like when the plastic gear breaks the window will still usually operate to some extent...at least move a bit.

My next move is to pull the motor and look at the gear.

I also bolted my license plate to my jerry can swing arm so the license plate is no longer tied to the spare wheel.
 
Tailgate plastic gear looks OK.

Tailgate window motor looks OK.

Maybe something was just bound up?

I'm going to check connections but everything looked OK when I took the window regulator out.

Fun fun fun...
 
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