The Resurection of 'The Beast' (4 Viewers)

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Post POR application - only one coat - I want to put one more coat on before I apply Durabak.
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You're not going to POR the inside of the rear quarter panels or the doors? Or is that later?

What color bedliner are you planning?


Looks good! Nice and shiny!
 
Everything is going to get covered w/ POR. I'm trying to not bite off too much at once. I'm only doing the interior right now so I can get my seats back in and hopefully make GSMTR. Next I'm thinking I'll get the roof fixed, then thefenders in good shape, then the rear quarters. The POR was a semi-gloss that is much duller now that it has dried. It was still wet in the pics.

Do you think I can apply another coat of POR directly over the last coat w/o any prep?

Bedliner so far is going to be black - its the cheapest. I considered dark gray.

ETA: Another reason I'm waiting on the rear quarters is I am going to first strip all bondo off and see what shape the metal is in. I have a local sheet metal fab shop that is interested in bending some new metal for my rear quarters so I don't want to do much work on what I have if I am going to replace them soon.
 
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I don't know the POR re-coat details as I've never used it. The directions or their website don't address it? http://www.por15.com/

Yeah, you can only do so much at one time, and wheeling season shouldn't be missed!
 
:censor: neighbor's kid shot my windshield with a BB gun - dead center too. I've seen them before in their backyard w/ a BB gun. :censor: :censor: :censor: :censor: :censor:

ETA: wife said a bunch of kids were at the neighbors house yesterday...I bet it was them.

Oh, and a bird sh*t inside my Pig - I guess it flew in through the Fred Flinstone floorboard...
 
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POR recoat directions I believe are to rescuff with scotchbrite pad or use Tie Coat Primer they make between the coats...

.
Indeed the POR is very slick after curing. You probably could get away with just one coat of POR if you are going to herculiner or other over it.

but I would scotchbrite for sure, only takes a few minutes and then just blow off, damp rag and you are ready for next coat
 
Thanks JM. I just read up on the POR site and they said to wet sand w/ either 400 or 600 grit sandpaper (I forget which) until the gloss is gone and then reapply. I used semi-gloss and its slick but not too bad so I think a scotchbrite pad will do as you say. I'll then apply primer when the second coat of POR is tacky, let the primer cure, and apply Durabak. I'm thinking two to three coats of Durabak. - thanks.
 
I got a little over 2 hours in this evening. I was able to rub a scotchbrite pad over the POR I just applied yesterday. I might hit it again with something else - maybe 400 grit. I also sketched out some patterns for the sheet metal I need to cut out. I hope to finish them tomorrow and start cutting metal.

ETA: I also removed the rear reflectors - I had to drill out all four screws. I don't think I will reuse the reflectors. I'll probably shave the mounts off flush with the rest of the body.
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eventhough said:
I got a little over 2 hours in this evening. I was able to rub a scotchbrite pad over the POR I just applied yesterday. I might hit it again with something else - maybe 400 grit. I also sketched out some patterns for the sheet metal I need to cut out. I hope to finish them tomorrow and start cutting metal.

ETA: I also removed the rear reflectors - I had to drill out all four screws. I don't think I will reuse the reflectors. I'll probably shave the mounts off flush with the rest of the body.
Click to expand...

Steve I'll go in half on a bead roller with you.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11108&itemType=PRODUCT
 
what did you cut the sheet metal with?, am liking Scotts idea of the bead roller; anyone with experience care to comment on its use? difficulty?; personally am tired of waiting for replacement floorboards and really don't want to get the wife POd if one of our little ones pops out on the road from the floorboard holes!

Lou
 
I cut 95%+ of the sheet metal out with an angle grinder. It was pretty easy. I sketched out with a sharpie where I wanted to cut and then went to town. I made sure of what was beneath where I was cutting. The sharpie lines really helped. I try to freehand a few areas and it was much more difficult. I'm cutting the replacement sheet metal w/ an angle grinder also and its taking a long time. I'm working with about 14 or 16 gauge sheet - I think 14, which matches what was already in the floors. I'm not worrying about rolling beads b/c the 14 gauge is pretty beefy but on the other hand its heavy and harder to work with. I think something thinner with a bead roller might be the ticket.
 
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