The Resurection of 'The Beast'
- Thread starter Southeast Overland
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- #122
I didn't get any work done today, and my wife says I get mean when I don't get to work on my Piggie, so I went outside to put together my seats to see what will be replacing my old front bench. I didn't install the cup holders on the Tuffy console yet.
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- #124
Thanks for the link. I didn't know he had produced complete front fenders in the past. I can use those much more than the rear patches. I've run down a few leads around here for parts Pigs but none have worked out yet. I sent Ehsan an email.
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- #125
I got a couple of hours in this afternoon. I went to a local 4x4 park this morning which was pretty fun even though I had to ride since my Piggie is still resting. My big accomplishment is I welded for the first time. MIG welding is not as difficult as I thought it would be.
Pic 1) I boxed off an area to weld where my neighbors would't 'look into the light.'
Pic 2) I first practiced on some scrap.
Pic 3) First weld burnt straight through. The second weld was a little better.
Pic 1) I boxed off an area to weld where my neighbors would't 'look into the light.'
Pic 2) I first practiced on some scrap.
Pic 3) First weld burnt straight through. The second weld was a little better.
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- #126
Pic 1) My practice canvas - the metal really heated up fast - I melted two rubber pads on my clamps.
Pic 2) I moved on to welding in floorboard pieces in my Piggie. This is after about 20 minutes max of practice welding for my first time ever. I was happy enough with it.
Pic 3) Here is the same piece with some additional welds. I put a few more welds in then ground down my welds and patched a few parts.
Note to self - you will set the undercoating on fire if you do not grind it away from the bottom of your welds.
I did find out that it is easier for me to push than pull a weld. Thanks to Trollhole for letting me borrow a welding helmet. I also usually tried to push my weld too fast and too narrow.
Pic 2) I moved on to welding in floorboard pieces in my Piggie. This is after about 20 minutes max of practice welding for my first time ever. I was happy enough with it.
Pic 3) Here is the same piece with some additional welds. I put a few more welds in then ground down my welds and patched a few parts.
Note to self - you will set the undercoating on fire if you do not grind it away from the bottom of your welds.
I did find out that it is easier for me to push than pull a weld. Thanks to Trollhole for letting me borrow a welding helmet. I also usually tried to push my weld too fast and too narrow.
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- #127
PS - Mud salute.
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- #129
Someone abandoned a Jeep in your garage....
TJK
That's the wife's - I swear!!! I'm working on convincing her to sell it and buy a 40. She wants the 40 but doesn't want to give up the Heep she has had since high school. I think once I find a decent 40 locally and she drives it she'll take the bait.
I guess I shouldn't tell you that her DD is another Heep...
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- #130
Did some welding the past two evenings. My welding has improved much from this weekend. I can pretty much push a bead several inches. I haven't tried to go further b/c I end up setting the undercoating on my Pig on fire - I've had to grab the garden hose twice!
Lance @ IPOR is going to fab up the body mount I need for at the passenger A-pillar. Sadly it looks like the Pig won't make GSMTR.
I still have to receive and install the body mount from Lance, finish welding in all new metal for the floor, add a second coat of POR15 and prime (so I can install Durabak after GSMTR) and weld in the IPOR bucket seat bracket and install seats and console. 
Lance @ IPOR is going to fab up the body mount I need for at the passenger A-pillar. Sadly it looks like the Pig won't make GSMTR.
I still have to receive and install the body mount from Lance, finish welding in all new metal for the floor, add a second coat of POR15 and prime (so I can install Durabak after GSMTR) and weld in the IPOR bucket seat bracket and install seats and console. great progress; what welding set up are you using?; any takers on Marshall's offer on going 1/2 on a bead roller?; I am interested........just the shippping back and forth would be a problem for me cause of the distance......
Lou
Lou
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- #132
I talked to Marshall about the bead roller when we were wheeling this past weekend. I'm using ~14/16 gauge for my floors and I think the bead roller would have a tough time w/ that. I've got a Miller AutoArc 110v welder. It works fine as far as I can tell for sheet metal. I haven't tried working with anything thicker yet but will soon.
ETA: and thanks for the progress compliment - one gets frustrated at times working on these beasts.
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- #134
Yup - a mig - I'll copy down the specs tonight. You are welcome to come by and try your hand if you are close enough. Its really pretty easy so far as far as I can tell - start a bead and push it along... Of course I might find out later that I was doing it wrong when the floor falls off. I've banged on the welded pieces pretty hard and they haven't budged.
More pics please!
If you can weld sheet metal without ruining it, you'll do fine on the structural stuff by the time you get to it. Since you said you burnt right through the 14G on your first try, your welder should work fine for heavier stuff.
Don't be frustrated! This is a lifetime project. Take your time and do it right and it will last a long, long time. Bummer about the truck missing GSMTR, but it will be there next year, bigger and better!
If you can weld sheet metal without ruining it, you'll do fine on the structural stuff by the time you get to it. Since you said you burnt right through the 14G on your first try, your welder should work fine for heavier stuff.
Don't be frustrated! This is a lifetime project. Take your time and do it right and it will last a long, long time. Bummer about the truck missing GSMTR, but it will be there next year, bigger and better!
Reminds me of that quote in the calendar a few years back. "If I had known it was going to last this long, I'd have taken better care of it."
I believe that 55 went up in smoke though.
TJK
I believe that 55 went up in smoke though.
TJK
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- #137
Yooper - I burnt straight through the sheet and the voltage was turned down. I'm pretty sure I can weld fairly heavy plate without a problem. I am going to buy the MetalTech cage as soon as it is available so I hope I can weld it. I'll take some more pics today. I have to get some for Lance @ IPOR to build a body mount for me.
Todd - this truck is definately smoldering but isn't up in smoke yet :shotts: . I have set it on fire twice welding. I learned quickly to keep a garden hose close by (and a fire extinguisher in reserve.) If I push a bead too long I'll set the undercoating on fire. There is a good bit of rust on this rig but its all manageable. Once I finish the interior I'm going to fix the roof - then the fenders (I have a free fender in good shape on the way) - and then to the rear - and then the underside - no problem and no worries.
Todd - this truck is definately smoldering but isn't up in smoke yet :shotts: . I have set it on fire twice welding. I learned quickly to keep a garden hose close by (and a fire extinguisher in reserve.) If I push a bead too long I'll set the undercoating on fire. There is a good bit of rust on this rig but its all manageable. Once I finish the interior I'm going to fix the roof - then the fenders (I have a free fender in good shape on the way) - and then to the rear - and then the underside - no problem and no worries.
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- #138
Ghetto Fab 101
I got a little work done today but rain chased me inside - and a grumbling stomach.
I had been contemplating how to put a curve in some metal, or some other way to bridge a gap between two pieces of metal I had or would be welding into place. The solution....a hammer! Today I was looking at the two pieces and by chance had a hammer in my hand and thought "what the heck," and it worked!
Pic 1) What I started with - long thin piece of ~16 gauge welded into place - note no curve in metal.
Pic 2) Gap I'm talking about. This is at the seam just infront of the rear bench seat. The same gap is on both sides. This is a pic on the passenger's side and I had already wacked the metal a few times to start a slight curve.
Pic 3) Piece of sheet cut and ready for welding.
Disclaimer: I just taught myself how to weld a few days ago...
I got a little work done today but rain chased me inside - and a grumbling stomach.
I had been contemplating how to put a curve in some metal, or some other way to bridge a gap between two pieces of metal I had or would be welding into place. The solution....a hammer! Today I was looking at the two pieces and by chance had a hammer in my hand and thought "what the heck," and it worked!
Pic 1) What I started with - long thin piece of ~16 gauge welded into place - note no curve in metal.
Pic 2) Gap I'm talking about. This is at the seam just infront of the rear bench seat. The same gap is on both sides. This is a pic on the passenger's side and I had already wacked the metal a few times to start a slight curve.
Pic 3) Piece of sheet cut and ready for welding.
Disclaimer: I just taught myself how to weld a few days ago...
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- Thread starter
- #139
Few more pics...
Pic 1) Piece of sheet from last pic above tacked into place - these were rushed b/c of the rain. I then beat the snot out of the middle piece to put a curve into it and bring it down to meet the smaller piece, then welded the two together.
Pic 2) Overview from the front.
Pic 3) Neighbor's dog - was white, then it started raining and combine a white fluffy dog with a construction site = hilarity.
Pic 1) Piece of sheet from last pic above tacked into place - these were rushed b/c of the rain. I then beat the snot out of the middle piece to put a curve into it and bring it down to meet the smaller piece, then welded the two together.
Pic 2) Overview from the front.
Pic 3) Neighbor's dog - was white, then it started raining and combine a white fluffy dog with a construction site = hilarity.