The Resurection of 'The Beast'

[Southeast Overland]

This is ridiculous. This head IIRC was rebuilt by a Toyota dealership. I will find the receipt at home tonight and post up that info.

I'll pull the head on the 1983 2F from a 60 that I have at home. Remember it had milkshake for oil and some rust on rockers, push rods, etc. Maybe I could change those out and be good. I also saw a 2F head rebuilt for sale for $350...

Good grief...

 

[Trollhole]

I also saw a 2F head rebuilt for sale for $350...

Good grief...

Screw that. You should almost be able to find one locally for cheap.

Steve at this point since you need basically a new rebuild is to ditch the 76 2f. Strip it down to the head and crank. Save the block and store all the other crap under the bench. You should have no problem managing an empty block for a couple feet.

I'd now focus on the 83 donor. Strip it down. All the way. The internals could be good including the lifters and cam.

Don't order anymore parts until it is all the way down to the block with everything bagged. Post up pics and we will get you through all this crap. Sun I will Be able to put my 76 2f on the engine stand and open the bottem end up. It may need just a few parts to get it running well enough for you to use as a crutch until you get all your stuff done.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks Troll. I'm not ordering any parts until EVERYTHING is torn down. Guess I need the hoist again for the 83 plus another engine stand...

Here is the info on the head rebuild. I have a receipt in front of me.

James Toyota - Moscow ID
July 15, 1999
Valve job, replace hoses, place piston rings, rod bearings, and a bunch of parts listed
$1985.86
The name "Chad" is written on the ticket.

Seems these were the last people (as far as I can tell) to touch my head...good stuff.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Here is the info on the head rebuild. I have a receipt in front of me.

James Toyota - Moscow ID
July 15, 1999
Valve job, replace hoses, place piston rings, rod bearings, and a bunch of parts listed
$1985.86
The name "Chad" is written on the ticket.

Seems these were the last people (as far as I can tell) to touch my head...good stuff.

Great! Now we know where NOT to go for a valve job.

Agreed w/ Troll. the '83 is a better engine anyway, so might as well build it. Hopefully the only thing that is wrong is a popped head gasket.

 

[Trollhole]

Thanks Troll. I'm not ordering any parts until EVERYTHING is torn down. Guess I need the hoist again for the 83 plus another engine stand...

Here is the info on the head rebuild. I have a receipt in front of me.

James Toyota - Moscow ID
July 15, 1999
Valve job, replace hoses, place piston rings, rod bearings, and a bunch of parts listed
$1985.86
The name "Chad" is written on the ticket.

Seems these were the last people (as far as I can tell) to touch my head...good stuff.

You can use the same stand. Get the rest of the 76 torn down. All the way to the bare block. It weighs about 100lbs bare which for me is managable. I just stick my arms in the cylinders.

Once it is down you can get the other engine ready for the stand. You could almost tear it down where it is All but the crank. Stand would be much easier. But now is the time to start getting it apart and stopping any more rust that may be forming. Keep priming the oil pump until you do.

 

[Trollhole]

Thanks Troll. I'm not ordering any parts until EVERYTHING is torn down. Guess I need the hoist again for the 83 plus another engine stand...

Here is the info on the head rebuild. I have a receipt in front of me.

James Toyota - Moscow ID
July 15, 1999
Valve job, replace hoses, place piston rings, rod bearings, and a bunch of parts listed
$1985.86
The name "Chad" is written on the ticket.

Seems these were the last people (as far as I can tell) to touch my head...good stuff.

Any mention of cam work or bearings?

 

[Southeast Overland]

I have two receipts.

First is for a compression check, look @ an exhaust leak and check back window problem (skipped). Compression #s were 25, 100, 75, 140, 140, 25.

Second was for valve job ($543.20)
Replace hoses
check parking brake
Replace piston rings, rod bearings ($336) (6 units)
Plane mansld (can't read writing - imagine that) $40
Sublet repairs $240.66
Part #s 7266, 7933, 7404, 7614, 04112-61031, 16341-60020, 90916-03014, 12151-61010, 13011-61010, 13205-60011, 90430-25003 (all previous #s quantity of 1) and 705-1013 (quantity 4)

Total for shoddy work
Labor mechanical $879.20
Sublet repairs $280.66
Parts $733.33
Tax $36.67
Compression check from receipt #1 $56.00
Total $1929.86

Both receipts have "Chad" written on as possibly the person who did the work.
Service Advisor appears to be "Br..." again can't read writing

Mileage 50,743 - assume this to be 150,743...hmmm...the odo reads less than that now I think - will have to check tonight

All work done by James Toyota - 1212 Pullman Rd Moscow ID 83843, 208-882-0580

 

[Southeast Overland]

PS - thanks to all the POs who kept these receipts - they have been a big help in figuring out what I need to do.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Found some more receipts from our friends @ James Toyota.

various hoses
engine gasket kit
thermostat
oil pan gasket
piston ring set
bearing set, con (13205-60011)
unnamed gasekt
various clamps and hoses
starter
oil filter

8-12-99 (after head rebuild)
oil pressure reads high
check fuel smell
valve knock - coasting needed to stop knock
some other writing that I once again can't read
note from "Chad" - will need clutch

 

[Trollhole]

Steve Gehn won't need the lift this week so it's free. Get it and I'll get it form you Sat or Sun.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I finished tearing down my 76 2F yesterday evening. Everything else looked perfect. Bearings were nearly mint.

I left my camera at work so there won't be any pics until tonight or tomorrow. I cleaned out some shelf space to make room for these 2F parts.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Had contact with the dealership through a MUD member. The guy who did all their machine work in 99 is no longer around (passed away) but apparently he peened lots of things to seat them. Dealership doesn't really see a problem with this. (I left names out to protect the innocent. )

I am of the mind this morning to call James Toyota and ask how they can justify letting work like this pass out of their shop but I know it wouldn't accomplish anything. Oh well.

Tore into the 83 last night. Air rail got trashed pulling it off. I should get the head off this weekend to see if the head gasket really is blown. I've noticed a few differences between the 76 and 83 2F so far. On the 76 IIRC the fan bolts directly where as on the 83 it bolts to a pulley??? Maybe I was missing something last night...was in a hurry.

Push rods had rust on them from the milkshake (I already knew this) but it sucks to see it again.

I took a bunch of pics and will upload them this weekend.

Here are my current plans.

Parts from 83
Block
Flywheel (should be balanced better than 76)
Clutch (need to check - ETA: still undecided which to use)
Bell housing
Cam (polish)
Crank (polish)
Oil pan
Pistons (need to check)
Head (had good compression - will have rebuilt)
Dizzy
Side cover
Valve train (will clean rust up from milkshake)
Valve cover (will clean rust up from inside from milkshake)
Manifold (will desmog)
Air cleaner (w/ spacers to fit carb from 76)
Push rods (will clean up)
Water pump (76 is new but I believe it won't fit)

Parts from 76
Fan
Carb
Fuel lines

New items
All gaskets and seals
Lifters
Main and rod bearings
Anything else that I can't think of from the 83 that the milkshake got to
Rings


I am going to hot tank as much as I can to clean/strip it then I'll repaint - but not Big Gay colors.

Man - I'm all over the place with this rebuild.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The surface rust on the '83 valvetrain parts is not an issue. Wirewheel the worst of it off, oil it up & reassemble. The lighter weight of the 83 pushrods & rockers will help improve cam durability and fuel economy. And the low profile valve cover w/ screw in fill cap will fit.

To put the 83 engine in a 55 body, the 76 waterpump & fan combo will be an easier fit.
The big 83 WP and fan clutch will only be 1/2" behind the radiator.

To keep the oil cooler, order a WP for 1977 FJ55. It will have direct drive fan, but have the additional port for oil cooler hose.

The 83 manifolds (if available) are better stuff, especially the exhaust. Use 'em if you got 'em.

If using the 76 carb, the air cleaner will not fit right due to the low-pro air cleaner. No problem, use the 83 air cleaner, w/ spacers under the 2 valve cover mounts.
Spacer thickness = Difference between insulator thickness in 83 v. 76 carbs.

HTH.

 

[yooper]

The water pump on the '76 is nearly new, I replaced it shortly before you bought the truck. If you don't use it you can sell it as barely used. It is OEM.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Yooper - thanks for the reminder about the water pump. I'll probably end up selling it.

JimC - dang, you are the man! You probably saved me at least about a day of frustration with what you just told me. I updated my post with the info from you.

So - is the head off of my 76 worth anything? Should I strip any parts off of it? I figure I would strip what I could and scrap the rest...

ETA: If I use the carb from the 76 is there any reason to go with the fuel pump from the 83? IIRC there are two connection on the 76 fuel pump and three on the 83.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yooper - thanks for the reminder about the water pump. I'll probably end up selling it.

JimC - dang, you are the man! You probably saved me at least about a day of frustration with what you just told me. I updated my post with the info from you.

So - is the head off of my 76 worth anything? Should I strip any parts off of it? I figure I would strip what I could and scrap the rest...

ETA: If I use the carb from the 76 is there any reason to go with the fuel pump from the 83? IIRC there are two connection on the 76 fuel pump and three on the 83.

The 76 head is junk, IMO. It would cost more to correctly replace the valve seats than a used head is worth. Pull anything off the head that will unscrew. Scrap the head w/ valves & springs. Remember, scrap iron is $.10/lb these days.

Use the complete 1976 fuel system: pump, hardlines, carb. That way it will connect to the choke cable, fuel lines, idle solenoid, etc. w/ no problems.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I have the 76 totally torn down and the block off the engine stand. The 83 has the head off and everything off the block. I just need to get it on the stand now to finish. I have a ton of pics but will have to post them later.

So far the 83 looks OK. There is tons of carbon on the cylinders and the spark plugs were covered in black soot...lots of build up. I assume this is from the 2F running rich. Also, the headgasket was NOT blown so how did water get into the oil???

 

[Kaderabek]

note from "Chad" - will need clutch

He was correct in that regard.

TJK

 

[Southeast Overland]

Pics of last bit of 76 tear down

#1 Cylinder from Bottom

#2 Cylinder from Bottom

#3 Cylinder from Bottom

#4 Cylinder from Bottom

#5 Cylinder from Bottom

#6 Cylinder from Bottom

Block from Bottom

Block Stamp

#1 Crank Bearing

#2 Crank Bearing

#3 Crank Bearing

#4 Crank Bearing

#1 Piston

#2 Piston

#3 Piston

 

[Southeast Overland]

#4 Piston

#5 Piston

#6 Piston

More pics to come of the 83 tear down...