The Resurection of 'The Beast'

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Pics from tear down of 83

76 fuel pump
76FuelPump.jpg


vs 83 fuel pump
FuelPump.jpg


Block driver's side
Block.jpg


Misc metal under valve cover
MiscMetalUnderValveCover.jpg


Close-ups of valve springs
Head1-2.jpg

Head3-4.jpg

Head5-6.jpg


Head gasket on block - doesn't look blown to me
HeadGasketWholeTop.jpg


Head gasket cylinders 1 and 2
HeadGasket1-2Top.jpg


Head gasket cylinders 3 and 4
HeadGasket3-4Top.jpg


Head gasket cylinders 5 and 6
HeadGasket5-6Top.jpg


Bottom of head gasket
HeadGasketWholeBottom.jpg


Bottom of head gasket cylinders 1 and 2
HeadGasket1-2Bottom.jpg


Bottom of head gasket cylinders 3 and 4
HeadGasket3-4Bottom.jpg


Bottom of head gasket cylinders 5 and 6
HeadGasket5-6Bottom.jpg


Oil cooler on 83 - 76 did not have
OilCooler.jpg
 
My next step is to put the 83 on an engine stand and finish taking her apart.

The 83 valve train and push rods do have a bit of rust on them. Under advisement from JimC I'll clean them up (prob with some VERY light sand paper), and reuse.

Note in some of the pics I attached of the 83 that you can see quite a bit of nasty (rusty?) build-up in the block. Should I be worried about this or will a date with a hot tank fix this problem?

My questions are:

1) There is a ton of carbon build up on the 83 pistons. Is that from running rich?

2) It appears to me that the head gasket is not blown on the 83. If it was not blown then what is the most logical way for water/coolant to enter the oil? I want to figure this out and fix it.

:cheers:
 
1. Yep, running rich did that.
2. Worst case, cracked head mixed water with the oil. That oil cooler could have done the same thing. Also, the head gasket could have failed between the oil passage to the head and the nearest water hole. My money is on the oil cooler. When you go to get the head rebuilt a standard inspection should identify / fix any cracks.
 
rsbcruiser said:
2. Worst case, cracked head mixed water with the oil. That oil cooler could have done the same thing. Also, the head gasket could have failed between the oil passage to the head and the nearest water hole. My money is on the oil cooler. When you go to get the head rebuilt a standard inspection should identify / fix any cracks.
Click to expand...

Hopefully the head is not cracked. My compression #s (cold and dry) on the 83 were:

1 - 164
2 - 152
3 - 161
4 - 155
5 - 158
6 - 165

High = 6 @ 165
Low = 2 @ 152
Diff of 13 psi which I think is good enough.

Is it possible to have good compression #s (like mine) and still have a cracked head? I was hoping with compression #s this high to just run the head like it is without having it rebuilt (need to save some $ if possible at this point).

The head gasket looked good to me when I took it off. I've never seen a blown head gasket but I didn't see any areas on my head gasket that looked like they had blown.

Is there a good/easy way to check the oil cooler to see if it is OK?

Once again thanks to all for the help! :cheers:
 
rsbcruiser said:
Also, the head gasket could have failed between the oil passage to the head and the nearest water hole.
Click to expand...

I think that this is the case... In the picture with HG still on the block, it looks like the the water passage below #2 is stopped up. I've seen times like this when the water pressure caused the water to work under the HG to the lifter holes, this would cause the oil/water milkshake. If this is the case, then the compression #s would be fine.
 
eventhough said:
Hopefully the head is not cracked. My compression #s (cold and dry) on the 83 were:

1 - 164
2 - 152
3 - 161
4 - 155
5 - 158
6 - 165

High = 6 @ 165
Low = 2 @ 152
Diff of 13 psi which I think is good enough.

Is it possible to have good compression #s (like mine) and still have a cracked head? I was hoping with compression #s this high to just run the head like it is without having it rebuilt (need to save some $ if possible at this point).

The head gasket looked good to me when I took it off. I've never seen a blown head gasket but I didn't see any areas on my head gasket that looked like they had blown.

Is there a good/easy way to check the oil cooler to see if it is OK?

Once again thanks to all for the help! :cheers:
Click to expand...

Very good point there Eventhough. With numbers like that I doubt there is a cracked head. As far as saving money not having the head serviced....dubious logic I think. You will be surprised as to how cheap it is to have your head checked and serviced. A hot tank, check for cracks and regrind will set you back not much and save you headaches down the road. The oil cooler.... bet a radiator shop could check that for you. Easy and free...if you have compressed air. stick an air nozzle (rubber tip)up to one end, finger in the other, give it a little air and listen for leaks? have not had experience with one of those but bet that would do it.
 
Hot tank all non moveable parts. The machine shop will know what to clean and what not to clean. Rust in block and head will mostly come out. May be a little surface rust but nothing to worry about. A round brush in the passageways and a little air will clear that out.

Get the head magnafluxed. That will tell if the head has any cracks.
 
Gotcha. I'll go ahead and have the head rebuilt. No reason to skimp now - I just don't want to go down the path of the Big Gay. :grinpimp: :flipoff2: 81 Machine Shop (local machine shop) is going to love me!

Didn't get any work done last night and won't for a few days. The :princess: has me repainting the front patio railing. Damn PO did a crappy repaint two years ago and the paint is literally falling off. 6 hours into the job and I'm not even half way done sanding.

:cheers:
 
Carp said:
I think that this is the case... In the picture with HG still on the block, it looks like the the water passage below #2 is stopped up. I've seen times like this when the water pressure caused the water to work under the HG to the lifter holes, this would cause the oil/water milkshake. If this is the case, then the compression #s would be fine.
Click to expand...

I see...

Now Carp - you keep up this good work and you might just talk yourself into assisting on a rebuild! :grinpimp:
 
Steve, "Brider" just posted on a 76 pig complete with 2F, front discks, etc for 250$ in PA on th 40-55 tech section; might be an option to pull a RUNNING 2F place it in the "Beast" and rebuild yours at leisure; it sure would save some stress and time if it is a good motor and keep the:princess:happy;HTH

Lou
 
Thanks Lou but I'm not putting any more motors or Cruisers into my garage right now. For the time being I'm focusing on getting my 83 2F rebuilt. If my Pig doesn't run until that motor is rebuilt then so be it. I might drop in a friends spare 2F in the mean time just to get the Piggie rolling but I'm not overly worried about that.

:cheers:
 
The 83 2F is off the partial frame and on the engine stand. I have one problem - I can not get the crank pulley nut off. I tried an impact wrench @ ~ 120 psi (as high as my air compressor will go b/c it has a leak) and also the 'put a big wrench on it, tie the wrench to your frame, and turn the motor over' trick and neither worked. Do I just need a better compressor and impact wrench? This is holding me up from tearing down the rest of the motor.

:cheers:
 
Steve; being on a stand limits your possibilities; you will need to support it very very well; think of a breaker bar with a cheater pipe; snapon sells a very nice long one and if you cannot get it loose with that then get a 4 foot section of thick wall steel pipe and slip it over the bar; amazing how much force it will put on the nut HTH;

Lou
 
n2666s said:
Steve; being on a stand limits your possibilities; you will need to support it very very well; think of a breaker bar with a cheater pipe; snapon sells a very nice long one and if you cannot get it loose with that then get a 4 foot section of thick wall steel pipe and slip it over the bar; amazing how much force it will put on the nut HTH;

Lou
Click to expand...

How can I keep the crank from turning if the engine is in a stand? I was thinking a better impact wrench was my only option.

And sorry for the cross post over in the 40/55 tech forum. I was trying to get a solution tonight since the :princess: is out.
 
Remove oil pan.
Stick a 4 foot long 2x4 into crankcase, so it gets tangled up w/ crankshaft bob weight.
Pull the 4' 2x4 toward the 4' breaker bar handle.

If the crank chews the end off the white pine 2x4, it may be necessary to steal a piece of oak from an old barn or house.
 
Time for the perverbial annoying warning. Which of course makes the impact driver the best opton. You can break a crankshaft doing things such as this. Option other. as in gulp refer to last sentence, is to jam a stong bar across the block and between the the block and the crankshaft. Something between the bar and race to protect # 1 rod race. big old piece of pipe on a breaker bar. 2X4 between the block end and ground to help support the engine stand. now that is fun! Good time to mention the ol 3 lb drilling hammer. not sure why, just is.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Remove oil pan.
Stick a 4 foot long 2x4 into crankcase, so it gets tangled up w/ crankshaft bob weight.
Pull the 4' 2x4 toward the 4' breaker bar handle.

If the crank chews the end off the white pine 2x4, it may be necessary to steal a piece of oak from an old barn or house.
Click to expand...
Howdy! I do like the way you think. There just ain't no easy way to anchor that beast now. You might be able to substitute a long chunk of 2x2 x 1/4" angle iron. Less trash in the engine that way, but throw a rag or an old rug over the working end of it. Your gunna have a wrestlin match on your hands either way. Ice up some beers and start calling on all your neighbors, friends, coworkers, cruiser buds, warm bodies of any kind. Take some pix of this one. Good luck!!!! John
 
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