The Resurection of 'The Beast'

[Southeast Overland]

Remove oil pan.
Stick a 4 foot long 2x4 into crankcase, so it gets tangled up w/ crankshaft bob weight.
Pull the 4' 2x4 toward the 4' breaker bar handle.

If the crank chews the end off the white pine 2x4, it may be necessary to steal a piece of oak from an old barn or house.

I thought about doing something like this but was a little anxious to - I'll try it now.

Originally the engine was sitting in the frame which was cut at the t-case. This wasn't much more if any more stable at all. I can probably brace the fool out of the engine stand and be more stable. Time to go sling some PB Blaster...

 

[Southeast Overland]

Have been doing a little research on parts for my rebuild.

I've located a couple of online stores that sell rebuild kits including Motor Power and Ingersoll Rand (sp?) - the second one might not be correct.

I want to go with all OEM gaskets and seals. Other parts will be a mix and match of OEM and after market.

Also - can I use the water pump from the 83 on the 76? The 76 water pump was replaced new OEM by the PO.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Dang - just realized I have to get my dizzy from the 83 recurved for the desmog. There goes another chunk 'o change.

 

[cruiserbrett]

83 water pump has a fan clutch which puts the fan too close to the radiator.

What I have done in the past for the crank nut is wrap some strong 1/2" rope(that stretches minimally) around the crank pulley about five- seven times, enough to get the rope to pinch itself and lock down when tightened...start wrapping in a clockwise manner and tie the leftover end off to the LH frame rail. this will allow it to self tighten when you use a long breaker bar to roll the motor over until it takes tension, then its time to put some muscle into it. Ive done it four or five times this way without a problem...

 

[Southeast Overland]

Crank nut is off. Aircat impact wrench from Trollhole did the trick. It wouldn't work at 90 psi but at 120 it popped that sucker right off. Then I realized I didn't have a crank puller - off to Norther Tool today @ lunch!

 

[Southeast Overland]

83 2f is completely apart. Lifter #10 was a beast to get out. Lifter #9 almost didn't come out. It was so tight it has to be dealt with using tools that I will not mention. Didn't see any bad scarring from my massaging or from whatever made it stick. Bearings towards the front looked great. Bearings towards the back had some wear at the oiling hole. Cam looked pretty nice for a motor with unknown mileage. Crank looked OK at first glance. I plan on taking a ton of pics and posting them up this weekend.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Here are a bunch o pics (78 to be exact). I'm guessing there was some sort of oiling problem at some point - either that or the motor has high mileage...maybe...dunno. Some bearings looked pretty good, some looked horrible. Cam bearings looked bad. Cam looked OK with some wear. Pistons looked OK except some had wear on the side - in the form of very distinct, separate scratches. Pistons had a ton of carbon on top of them. Some oil had leaked onto the piston tops from my disassembly so ignore that. I also didn't clean everything very well before taking pics so please forgive that.

Let me know what you think about all the pics. Without Jim C I would have been tossing my 'rebuilt' 2F head back on and who knows what would have happened.

I'm now split between being glad that I am rebuilding the 83 and wishing that I had just ran the fool out of the 76 until it blew. I had been thinking about this and Troll just had to mention it. (I put a 'flip off' icon up but that put me over my limit - so I hope Troll doesn't feel left out!) The 83 will be nice when I finish it.

I also cleaned up the dizzy, coil and igniter from the 83. I need to get the dizzy recurved. I'm trying to find out exactly why you need to recurve and what would happen if you didn't.

Anyways - here are the pics - enjoy!

Most of the crank bearings had small, round spots on them that you could feel. Are these from water? I'm replacing all of these.

Crank bearing #1 lower

Crank bearing #1 upper

Crank bearing #2 lower

Crank bearing #2 upper

Crank bearing #3 lower

Crank bearing #3 upper

Crank bearing #4 lower

Crank bearing #4 upper

Crank timing gear - this one actually has a C-clip!

I thought the cylinders looked OK. I couldn't really see any cross-hatching on the walls but the walls felt smooth to the touch.

Cylinder #1 from bottom

Cylinder #1 from top

Cylinder #2 from bottom

Cylinder #2 from top

Cylinder #3 from bottom

Cylinder #3 from top

Cylinder #4 from bottom

Cylinder #4 from top

Cylinder #5 from bottom

Cylinder #5 from top

Cylinder #6 from bottom

 

[Southeast Overland]

Cylinder 6 from top

Junk in block - couldn't get it out to look at

Keyway - looked good - MUCH better than keyway on 76 which was in BAD shape

Lifters 9 and 10. 10 was hard to get out - 9 had to be hammered out. I know you aren't supposed to hammer a lifter but it wasn't coming out any other way. There was some light rusty-type build-up, especially in #9. I assume the machine shop can take care of this.

Same as previous picture but without a flash.

Some of the pistons had small scores, or "scratch lines" on the side that you could feel with your finger. Would this be a probem?

Piston #1 driver-side

Some of the piston bearings looked OK - some bad - all will be replaced.

Piston #1 lower bearing

Piston #1 passenger-side

Piston #1 top

Piston #1 upper bearing

Piston #2 driver-side

Piston #2 lower bearing

Piston #2 passenger-side (that is dog hair - not cracks or scratches)

Piston #2 top

Piston #2 upper bearing

Piston #3 driver-side

Piston #3 lower bearing

Piston #3 passenger-side

Piston #3 upper bearing

Piston #4 driver-side

 

[Southeast Overland]

Piston #4 lower bearing

Piston #4 passenger-side

Piston #4 from top

Piston #4 upper bearing

Piston #5 driver-side

Piston #5 lower bearing

Piston #5 passenger-side

Piston #5 from top

Piston #5 upper bearing

Piston #6 driver-side

Piston #6 lower bearing

Piston #6 passenger-side

Piston #6 from top

Piston #6 upper bearing

Typical cam wear shot #1

Typical cam wear shot #2

Typical cam wear shot #3

Typical cam wear shot #4 - So, can the machine shop polish up this cam or do I need to purchase a new one? I also have a cam from Trollhole that is in decent shape with wear that is a little more even.

Cam bearing #1

Cam bearing #2

 

[Southeast Overland]

Cam bearing #3

Cam bearing #4

Cam lobes shot 1

Cam lobes shot 2

Cam lobes shot 3

Cam lobes shot 4

Cam lobes shot 5

Cam lobes shot 6

Crank at bearing #1

Crank at bearing #2

Crank at bearing #3

Crank at bearing #4

Crank at piston #1

Crank at piston #2

Crank at piston #3

Crank at piston #4

Crank at piston #5

Crank at piston #6

 

[Trollhole]

Crank is going to need to be turned.

 

[Southeast Overland]

That's fine. I had planned on having the crank turned/polished, cylinders honed, everything and its brother hot tanked...would like to keep the pistons but don't know about them yet.

 

[n2666s]

Steve, sent my 2F cam to Iskendarian who re ground and profiled it + case hardened; apparently Steve, since you are going all out on this rebuild........a couple of thoughts........Toyota apparently did a very did a very poor job of case hardening so as the engine accumulates milage the performance deteriorates as the cam lobes "wash"......thought to be a reason the motors last so long as they produce less energy/stress??......also have seen poor balancing of pistons and rods.again, these are high milage motors.......any comments on this are welcome from other members as this something that I cannot verify; you can talk directly with Ron Iskenderian; a treasure drove of tech information; his dad retired and I understand is in poor health; in any case a reprofiled cam with case hardening is going to be a better choice than an original one IMO.HTH;

Lou

 

[CandyPants]

I just want to know how long it took you to take and upload all those pictures?

 

[Southeast Overland]

I just want to know how long it took you to take and upload all those pictures?

Too long...

 

[Carp]

I wouldn't worry about the small scratches on the piston skirts. They shouldn't be touching the cylinder walls during normal engine operation. You should also check the wrist pin play now (part that connects the pistons to the connecting rods). Super easy to be replaced now, can cause knocking if they are bad/loose.

Good amount of work done there. Looks a lot better than your 76...

 

[cruiserbrett]

Piston skirts do touch the cylinder wall. side loading of the rod at an angle while in up travel and down travel forces the piston skirt into the cylinder wall.

that motor appears to have overheated at one point. the scuffing on the sides of the piston is excessive and that is often caused by overheating. Also the bearing material that looks to have peeled off can be caused by overheating or poor oiling

 

[Southeast Overland]

Piston skirts do touch the cylinder wall. side loading of the rod at an angle while in up travel and down travel forces the piston skirt into the cylinder wall.

that motor appears to have overheated at one point. the scuffing on the sides of the piston is excessive and that is often caused by overheating. Also the bearing material that looks to have peeled off can be caused by overheating or poor oiling

Does it look like I can reuse the pistons or should the machine shop make that call? Will the overheating hurt me if I am replacing all the bearings, turning/replacing the cam, grinding the crank, honing the cylinders and all new gaskets etc?

 

[Southeast Overland]

I got a few hours in today. I stripped/sanded, primed and painted my battery tray, air filter housing upper and lower, and steering piece between the two U-joints. I also installed the U-joints/bearings into the middle steering piece (dang I don't know what things are called) and then called it a day. I'm picking up a 2F next Sunday locally that I am going to drop into the Pig and hopefully have her running within a month. Then I'll have time to rebuild my 83 and once it is rebuilt it will go into the Pig and the donor 2F will go to a friend for his 40.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Got about an hour and a half in this afternoon after going for a hike with the and dogs.

I installed the repainted battery tray and the new steering u-joints in the Pig. Once these pics post I'm off to the car parts store to pick up some seam sealer. A friend nicely pointed out that I never welded the floor patches on the bottom which left a very small seam that mud could get into and start rusting so I plan to just fill this with seam sealer and call it good. Enjoy the pics!

Battery tray painted

Lower air filter housing painted

Upper air filter housing painted

Steering need assembly!!

New u-joints semi-installed

Steering ready to be installed

Battery tray installed

Steering installed

Also cleaned up and painted my steering, axle and springs a bit

I looked back at some of the engine bay pics before I cleaned her up and I think it looks much better. I'm picking up the second donor 2F next Sunday and plan to drop her in and have the Piggie back on the road hopefully within two months. I think that is realistic. Once the engine is in place I can measure for a cut and turn but I'll be recruiting help for that. Sometime in the next two months I'm also going to get my rear bumper straightened so I can reinstall.