The Resurection of 'The Beast' (6 Viewers)

[Trollhole]

I spent some time this weekend stripping down the donor 2F. I talked to Trollhole this weekend after I helped pull his 2F and was waffling (or some call it 'flip-flopping' ) on if I should install the donor 2F with my desmoged equipment, fix my current 2F the reinstall, or if I should just fix my current 2F and sell the donor 2F. So, under direction of the great Troll I ran some compression numbers on the donor 2F.

1 - 155
2 - 145
3 - 152
4 - 146
5 - 150
6 - 148

On the donor 2F (comp #'s above) mileage is unknown. I still need to run compression numbers on my original 2F.

I was told to make sure the carb was fully open. I had not removed the carb but I think it was open. Take a look below at a pic of how my carb sat when I ran my compression test. Is this 'open?'

Open the throttle all the way and insert a long screwdriver.

 

[Southeast Overland]

- will run it again tonight...

 

[Southeast Overland]

Reran compression - took the carb all the way off - you don't get much more open than that.

The first compression #s below are the old ones - the second row of compression numbers are the new ones. Both #s were run with the engine cold, ~ 850 ft above sea level, ambient air ~ 60 degrees F.

1 - 155 - 164
2 - 145 - 152
3 - 152 - 161
4 - 146 - 155
5 - 150 - 158
6 - 148 - 165

High = 6 @ 165
Low = 2 @ 152
Diff of 13 psi which I think is good enough.

Numbers went up an average of just over 8 psi with the carb removed. I'm thinking this is a strong motor. I stripped a few more parts off last night in a few spare minutes I had. My current plans (that could change in 5 minutes) are to get this motor stripped down, cleaned up (degreased and washed), desmogged, new oil pan gasket and rear main seal, then mount her up!

Does anyone have a Toyota part # for the parts I need to fix the slop in my steering joints? See pic below. ETA: have the part # now, 04371-10011 Spider Kit steering universal joint FJ55

If anyone needs any engine bay parts off of a 1983 FJ60 let me know. I have a few things I'm trying to get rid of - carb, radiator, smog equipment, AC equipment...

Thanks!

 

[Southeast Overland]

All good things must come to an end...

Complete donor 2F - check
Good compression on donor 2F - check
Within two months of having Piggie running again - check
Finding water in your oil and rust under valve cover - Priceless!



A cruiser buddy checked this motor out for me - oil was nice and dark on the dip stick IIRC before I picked her up. Motor had been stored under cover for most of 6 months after it had been pulled from donor 60. PO is an honest guy (as far as i can tell) and neither of us know how water got into the motor. My guess is that the water had settled out on top of the oil in the pan and then got mixed up when the PO ran the motor a few weeks before I bought it which allowed some water to get to components and begin the rust process. I have not pulled the pan and will not be able for a few weeks until I have use of an engine hoist again to put the engine on a stand so until then I won't know what the bottom end looks like which is what I am most worried about.

There is some good news. I called the PO and we had a very good talk. We have come to an agreement which won't make me whole but will make me happy. Hopefully within a week or two we will be there.

So now I am back to fixing my original 2F. I was hoping to use the donor 2F since its compression #s were so high and even, it had an oil cooler, and I'm told the later 2Fs were balanced some what where earlier 2Fs were not. I'm going to switch over a gear reduction starter which was on the donor 2F to my original 2F, put a reman'd crank in, some new bearings and call it good.

Maybe I'll keep the donor 2F around and rebuild it in a couple of years. I did flush all the bad oil out I could and sent a couple of quarts of new Texas tea through. I'm going to pump some oil through the donor 2F tonight to make sure any rust is halted where it sits.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I got about an hour and a half in last night. I took a few pics of what I saw.

I tried to fully purge the donor 2F of any water/bad oil. I had drained the motor night before last so last night I put about 5 quarts of old oil into the motor, let it settle into the pan, and then with the distributor removed I pumped the oil through the motor with the aid of a long cut off screwdriver and a drill (thanks Trollhole). Note to self - if you do this and the oil cooler is off you will dump oil all over your garage floor. Doing this (pumping out oil - not necessarily all on floor) I was able to get out at least another quart of bad oil, maybe two and it was NASTY. I pumped until I only had the used oil coming out that I dumped in, then I drained all of my used oil out. Next I put in about 5 quarts of brand new oil and pumped it through for a bit trying to stop any rust I could. A good bit of this oil was poured across the valves trying to soak everything.

Question (from a newb) - why did no oil come out of the rocker arms while I was doing the cut off screwdriver/drill trick to pump oil through the motor?

By this time the wanted to take the boys (read: dogs) for a walk so I had to call it an evening. I can't do a whole lot more on the donor 2F until I get use of an engine hoist again. I'm going to strip off a few more parts to get some stuff out of the way and then wait. Once I get use of a hoist again I'll throw the donor 2F on a stand, spin it upside down and pull the pan to see whats up in the lower end. I think the lower end will be worse than the upper end.

I finally took a few pics of what I'm up against. Of course (like always) I usually wait too long to take pics and the work or whatever I want to show is gone...

Pic 1 - upper end under valve cover. Note rust in pic and rust is also present on rocker arms - not much on valve springs. You will see a good bit of clean oil in this pic. I had already started dumping clean oil over the valves to try and soak everything.

Pic 2 - bad oil coming out from where oil cooler mounts - not nice thin consistency.

Pic 3 - bad oil that came out of the oil cooler - the dark oil you see was from some good oil that was already in the bottom of my plastic catch pan.

So guys - I think this motor is probably toast and I'll have to wait to possibly rebuild it at some point in the future which was NOT my plan. If I can get a little time in tonight I am going to throw a starter on my original 2F and check its compression. I hope it is good because that motor is going back into my Piggie once I replace the crank, a bunch of gaskets and some bearings.

 

[redcorn]

Dude....
Pull the sparkplugs while you are at this point and add something like kano labs KREEN to the top end and let it it sit...

After this has done it's thing, perhaps spinning the engine over without sparkplugs to clean the cylinderwalls with another shot of KREEN down each sparkplug hole can't hurt either.

The 2F is a stout engine.....surviving the most brutal conditions around the world for decades of abuse.

Treat this like a challenge and get the engine as internally clean as possible, then try to fire it up in the cutoff chassis that it may still be in.


A bit if water, aslong as it is totally removed, will not hurt your new purchase.

Good luck...


Cheering for your 2F

john

 

[Southeast Overland]

Hmmm - Kreen - never heard of this magical stuff....time to do some research!

 

[n2666s]

X2 on the Kreen!.... Steve..............Kano labs puts out some great heavy duty industrial stuff, was introduced to Kroil oil years ago working in the oilfields where the salt water would eat steel in front of your eyes!.........give it a shot; 2Fs are one of the toughest gas motors ever built.......my 0.02......GL

Lou

 

[Southeast Overland]

I'm still heavily leaning towards using my old 2F but will definitely use the Kreen on the donor 2F to try and preserve whatever I have left.

 

[yooper]

Your old 2F is a great engine. Already desmogged, fairly recent rebuild, very strong runner, all that's wrong with it is the crank thing. Use it.

Use the A/C parts from the donor to build on-board air.

The donor might have a better (newer model) distributor too...

FWIW, I agree that some water in the donor is not a death sentence. It will probably clean up and be fine. Keep it as a trail spare.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Your old 2F is a great engine. Already desmogged, fairly recent rebuild, very strong runner, all that's wrong with it is the crank thing. Use it.

Use the A/C parts from the donor to build on-board air.

The donor might have a better (newer model) distributor too...

FWIW, I agree that some water in the donor is not a death sentence. It will probably clean up and be fine. Keep it as a trail spare.

Where the heck have you been Yooper??? I'm going to clean up the donor 2F and keep for a future rebuild if needed. I don't have good feelings about whats going to be in the lower end. I've already located a crank locally from a 76 2F that I'll get checked out at a machine shop and then will drop in.

 

[yooper]

I've been lurking in here and following along, just didn't have anything to say I guess, and I feel pretty sheepish that you're having serious problems; I knew the powersteering mount was wonky and torqueing on things but never dreamed it would mess up the crank.

Donor crank sounds like a good plan, with new bearings, etc...

 

[Trollhole]

Question (from a newb) - why did no oil come out of the rocker arms while I was doing the cut off screwdriver/drill trick to pump oil through the motor?

You will not get any oil to the top end until the cam is in the right place.

Take plugs out rotate crank pulley about 1 inch at a time. Use drill after each inch. Eventually you will get the holes lined up and oil will flow out the top end.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I've been lurking in here and following along, just didn't have anything to say I guess, and I feel pretty sheepish that you're having serious problems; I knew the powersteering mount was wonky and torqueing on things but never dreamed it would mess up the crank.

Donor crank sounds like a good plan, with new bearings, etc...

Well its good to hear from ya again! No worries on the problems - you don't have any control over them. Having the motor out is going to make cleaning the engine bay and fixing the steering MUCH easier! I'm learning a ton about my truck now also.

You will not get any oil to the top end until the cam is in the right place.

Take plugs out rotate crank pulley about 1 inch at a time. Use drill after each inch. Eventually you will get the holes lined up and oil will flow out the top end.

Gotcha - I did pour oil across the top end but would like to get as much of the motor oiled as possible. I'm also going to try the 'Kreen' clean unless anyone objects.

So far I think I'm looking at purchasing a used donor crank, have it machined if needed and polished, new rear main (already have), new oil pan gasket (already have), new valve cover gasket (already have), new manifold gasket, new side cover gasket, new timing cover gasket, main bearings, rod bearings, maybe an oil cooler and new steering u joints while the motor is out. I haven't placed an order yet w/ our local Toyota dealership until I'm sure I've accounted for everything. I also have a PS pump mount from IPOR (courtesy of k9crazy and I still owe her for it) that will go on in place of the old one.

ETA: also need to order a new gas cap and whatever else is needed to keep my gas tank from overflowing in the sun. It does this even when only half full. Also plan on doing a cut and turn sometime this year.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I ran a compression test this morning on my original 2F. I don't have the #'s written down w/ me but they were something like

1 - 150
2 - 152
3 - 144
4 - 163
5 - 163
6 - 160

I ran 3 twice and the second time it came in at 143. All are w/in 10% but 3 is a bit low... I'm going to run with it.

I'll post up the exact #'s later. Oh - and the engine was cold and the test was dry.

 

[oldfj40]

I don't know how I missed reading this thread before but I just read through every post.All I can say is WOW !

You have done some awesome work on this rig.Your idea of 'just a trail rig' is a lot different than some of the stuff being beat up out there.This pig is solid.

As I was reading this I was thinking here's a guy who loves his truck and wants it to last for years.Then I hit the posts where you were talking of selling it.I sure hope that you've reconsidered cuz you're not going to be able to find one as good as what you've made this one.A Pig is a classic,capable rig that stands out where ever it goes and yours is looking great.

I've seen some great resto ideas here and will be using them when I start on my Pig.

Keep up the good work!

 

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks Steve! I've been working hard and I've got some wind back under my sails so the Piggie is seeing some well deserved work - especially this weekend. I finished patching up a rear door sill (not easy for me) and started on the final patches of the rear sill under the tailgate which should go pretty fast. I have my original 2F about ready to throw up on an engine stand and start tearing into her. Getting the bellhousing off was not as easy as I thought so I'll have to do a little reading there.

Here are the actual compression #s on my original 2F
1 - 150
2 - 144
3 - 154
4 - 163
5 - 163
6 - 160
Again - 2 was a little low but I think its good enough.

My goal this week is to get the rear sill finished and painted, push the Piggie out into the garage, and clean up the engine bay to prep for dropping in a motor.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Well for once it looks like I got (almost) everything done that I wanted in a weekend!

I finished up the rear sill. It is not perfect but good enough for a trail Piggie. I also cleaned up the engine bay pretty well to prep for dropping in my fixed 2F. The battery tray will need to be stripped and repainted. I also will touch up some parts of the engine bay with some Rustoleum and will also throw some POR into a few rusty areas where water drains down the back sides of the engine bay.

I had to spend some time on the FJC as I will be at GSMTR most of this week!

Now for some pics!

Pic 1 - Rear sill passenger side
Pic 2 - Rear sill driver side
Pic 3 - Rear sill finished

 

[Southeast Overland]

I also cut out some rust in the rear driver's sill. There ended up being much more rust than I thought - but when isn't there with a Pig? See Pic 4.

Then I started cleaning up the engine bay.

Pic 5 - Dirty engine bay from front - can anyone spot the exhaust leak? Trollhole found it...actually he pointed it out to me. I tried several different products to clean up the engine bay. I started with two types of engine degreaser in aerosol cans. They didn't really work. Greased lightning worked OK but then I went to Wally-World and picked up some Purple Power. Purple Power combined with some elbow grease worked great!!!
Pic 6 - Dirty engine bay passenger side

 

[Southeast Overland]

Last few pics.

Pic 7 - Front view of clean engine bay
Pic 8 - Front view of rear of engine bay - only Purple Power (with a little scrubbing) would clean up the mess from the exhaust leak
Pic 9 - Passenger side clean - I had to take out the battery tray to clean behind it and now have to strip and repaint the battery tray - it was a bit of a mess.

Was this Piggy ever this clean when Yooper or Todd owned it?

Now off to finish packing for GSMTR.