What is this wrap?
Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter DangerNoodle
- Start date
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What is this wrap?
- Thread starter
- #862
Once I get it all finished, it will be permanently living on the cruiser. I don't particularly like the look of no top. The bikini and half doors is meh.
- Thread starter
- #863
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- Thread starter
- #864
I've been at my new job for about a week now, and have finally found some time to keep working on the cruiser. I added a 1-inch spacer to my sniper to hopefully help with fuel overheating and a few fouling issues I have been having. I got some new AN fuel lines run and wrapped to move it from the exhaust and added a 180-degree thermostat. I'm hoping to get a shroud and some electric pusher fan mounts made and installed within the next few weeks to help with cooling issues.
I've been looking and designing things that I want to get done this summer, and one of them is a super low profile, prerunner-ish, roof rack.
I knocked the CAD out today, and this is what I came up with. Let me know what you think, as I'm always looking for changes to make it look better.
Front
ISO
Sides
I added some TEQ logos to add some flare and differentiation from other racks.
Top
Anyways, I'm planning on getting some front fenders, sliders, and rear tire carrier built this summer and finishing the paint and body of the cruiser.
I've been looking and designing things that I want to get done this summer, and one of them is a super low profile, prerunner-ish, roof rack.
I knocked the CAD out today, and this is what I came up with. Let me know what you think, as I'm always looking for changes to make it look better.
Front
ISO
Sides
I added some TEQ logos to add some flare and differentiation from other racks.
Top
Anyways, I'm planning on getting some front fenders, sliders, and rear tire carrier built this summer and finishing the paint and body of the cruiser.
Like the rack! How many supports are you planning to have? And how far above the roof is it going to be?
- Thread starter
- #866
I'm thinking about supports on each crossmember, so 10 total. I want the rack to be as low profile as possible, so probably like a 1/2 inch above the highest point on the top.
Wow, will be absolutely solid! Nice. Can't wait to see the finished product!
The only thing I don't love is that the perimeter rail is vertical and then transitions to a slight outward lean between the 2nd and 3rd crossmember. I think I'd keep the perimeter rail directly above the base rail, just because I don't think the transition will look that good. If you want to keep the rear perimeter rail behind the base rail, which I like because it mirrors what's happening in the front, just do the transition in the corner.
Pura Vida
What an absolute noob
@DangerNoodle what's your experience with the VR winches? I've been looking at winches recently, and haven't found a lot of personal testimonies from it. Have you used it? is it reliable? the price almost seems too good to be true
- Thread starter
- #870
The only reason I got the winch that cheap was because the store was closing, and they were selling everything at-cost to get rid of stuff. I haven't even put a pull on that winch yet, it lives on my dad's cruiser. I would expect that it will be a good winch. Warn is a good brand, and I love the 8274 I have on the 40 right now.
- Thread starter
- #871
In other news, I've been pretty busy working on the cruiser and have gotten a lot done. I've just been pretty bad about posting. Having access to a full shop and 3 day weekends has been really nice.
I've gotten all my sheet metal work completed except for moving the rear wheel wells up. I'm hoping to get that done very soon. The doors took a while to clean up and patch, but they turned out ok.
Since the toybox decided to puke oil all over my cab, I decided that I was going to raptor line the floor pan since I was tired of worring about my paint. Best decision I ever made.
We mixed up some paint here and tinted the liner to match. It came out to be very close.
The tint is a really close match in the sun, but is missing a little blue in the shade.
To try and insulate my tank even further, I deided to add a rubber pad to the floorboard above the tank. I'm hoping it helps.
The hump turned out very nice. It matches this time, unlike the old paint I had on it before.
Reassembled.
I've gotten all my sheet metal work completed except for moving the rear wheel wells up. I'm hoping to get that done very soon. The doors took a while to clean up and patch, but they turned out ok.
Since the toybox decided to puke oil all over my cab, I decided that I was going to raptor line the floor pan since I was tired of worring about my paint. Best decision I ever made.
We mixed up some paint here and tinted the liner to match. It came out to be very close.
The tint is a really close match in the sun, but is missing a little blue in the shade.
To try and insulate my tank even further, I deided to add a rubber pad to the floorboard above the tank. I'm hoping it helps.
The hump turned out very nice. It matches this time, unlike the old paint I had on it before.
Reassembled.
- Thread starter
- #872
I got my rear box lined as well, since everybody ends up walking on it.
Inverter installed.
New severe duty fan clutch and high flow 6 blade fan installed. It really sucks.
Beginning of the fan shroud.
Some terrible TIG welds. It's my second time ever really doing aluminum, and I've only used a TIG like 5 times before, so I'm assuming I just need more practice.
Inverter installed.
New severe duty fan clutch and high flow 6 blade fan installed. It really sucks.
Beginning of the fan shroud.
Some terrible TIG welds. It's my second time ever really doing aluminum, and I've only used a TIG like 5 times before, so I'm assuming I just need more practice.
- Thread starter
- #873
The shroud should really help at low speeds and I'm hoping that I've solved my overheating issues.
I've been crimping up some new A/C lines. I just need 1 more fitting and I can get it charged today.
Our head fabricator, Alex, compliaining that my rear seats are too small, and the cage is too close to his head.
For refrence, he is ~6'5". I'm not planning on taking anyone taller than 5'8" in the back. Too much bonk possibility on the cage.
I've been crimping up some new A/C lines. I just need 1 more fitting and I can get it charged today.
Our head fabricator, Alex, compliaining that my rear seats are too small, and the cage is too close to his head.
For refrence, he is ~6'5". I'm not planning on taking anyone taller than 5'8" in the back. Too much bonk possibility on the cage.
- Thread starter
- #874
I'm finally moving to my body and getting all the changes I wanted to done.
First on my list was moving my rear fender openings around. I didn't like how low and wide they were.
Taped out.
Moved up 2", and backwards 2".
Looking much better.
Driver Side moved.
The guys here convinced me to boatside the 40 to make more room for the sliders, and I'm really glad I did. It really opened up some extra space to add in sliders, and it allows for me to keep the same breakover angle.
First on my list was moving my rear fender openings around. I didn't like how low and wide they were.
Taped out.
Moved up 2", and backwards 2".
Looking much better.
Driver Side moved.
The guys here convinced me to boatside the 40 to make more room for the sliders, and I'm really glad I did. It really opened up some extra space to add in sliders, and it allows for me to keep the same breakover angle.
- Thread starter
- #875
I've started laying down mud, and am almost done.
It took a lot of whomping on the body to get it straight enough for mud, but there is a max of about a 1/16" on the body. I'm currently using 3M Platinum Plus body filler.
Side done.
I am basically done with the body, have both front doors done, and just need to finish the hard top sides and rear amby doors. Next up, paint!
It took a lot of whomping on the body to get it straight enough for mud, but there is a max of about a 1/16" on the body. I'm currently using 3M Platinum Plus body filler.
Side done.
I am basically done with the body, have both front doors done, and just need to finish the hard top sides and rear amby doors. Next up, paint!
- Thread starter
- #876
I keep forgetting to update, but here is a good one.
Doors and top sides primed.
Body fully blocked and ready for primer.
Body primed.
Hood primed.
About 5 hours of blocking later, and the body is ready for final paint.
Doors and top sides primed.
Body fully blocked and ready for primer.
Body primed.
Hood primed.
About 5 hours of blocking later, and the body is ready for final paint.
- Thread starter
- #877
Finally, paint! The paint is PPG Delfleet, so I couldn't get a code for the Audi Nardo Gray, but the chip I used is basically indistinguishable from the Nardo Gray.
The Delfleet is an extremely durable paint, ment for fleet and semi applications, so it is much more scratch and chip resistant than most paints. It's somewhere around 60% solids, and it's a PITA to shoot without some practice. I'm glad I convinced our head painter to paint it for me.
The body came out pretty dang straight, so I am happy. For the amount that I rushed this, it went well.
Natural light really brings out the blue in this color.
Finally back out in the sun.
I'm a happy camper. Still on track to get this thing fully painted for SAS5, so about 2 weeks out.
The Delfleet is an extremely durable paint, ment for fleet and semi applications, so it is much more scratch and chip resistant than most paints. It's somewhere around 60% solids, and it's a PITA to shoot without some practice. I'm glad I convinced our head painter to paint it for me.
The body came out pretty dang straight, so I am happy. For the amount that I rushed this, it went well.
Natural light really brings out the blue in this color.
Finally back out in the sun.
I'm a happy camper. Still on track to get this thing fully painted for SAS5, so about 2 weeks out.
Looks great.Finally, paint! The paint is PPG Delfleet, so I couldn't get a code for the Audi Nardo Gray, but the chip I used is basically indistinguishable from the Nardo Gray.
The Delfleet is an extremely durable paint, ment for fleet and semi applications, so it is much more scratch and chip resistant than most paints. It's somewhere around 60% solids, and it's a PITA to shoot without some practice. I'm glad I convinced our head painter to paint it for me.
The body came out pretty dang straight, so I am happy. For the amount that I rushed this, it went well.
View attachment 2735040
View attachment 2735041
View attachment 2735042
Natural light really brings out the blue in this color.
View attachment 2735043
Finally back out in the sun.
View attachment 2735044
View attachment 2735045
View attachment 2735047
I'm a happy camper. Still on track to get this thing fully painted for SAS5, so about 2 weeks out.
- Thread starter
- #879
For refrence, the gas door is true PPG Deltron Nardo Gray, and the hood is PPG Delfleet. The Delfleet should darken up just a touch more as it cures.
Delfleet paint chip code, for anyone interested.
Delfleet paint chip code, for anyone interested.
- Thread starter
- #880
Thanks!
