Looks great!! Thanks for sending email with link. Following so I can keep up with your build. Thanks Chad
Builds The Escape Wagon Restoration
- Thread starter EscapeWagon62
- Start date
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Top notch.
Outstanding.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #64
My oil pressure reading wasn’t looking correct. Very little modulation.
Swapped out the oil pressure sending unit and all is well now. While I was at it I bought some new bulbs and green rubber covers (light bulb condoms?) to address my instrument and dash lighting deficiencies. Decided to stay original vs LED.
Swapped out the oil pressure sending unit and all is well now. While I was at it I bought some new bulbs and green rubber covers (light bulb condoms?) to address my instrument and dash lighting deficiencies. Decided to stay original vs LED.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #65
Not really an update.
Just adding in some of the other work I did but didn’t post previously in case I lose the files on my computer.
Replaced EGR gasket with OEM 223,000
Throttle body clean 223,000
Mass airflow meter clean 223,000
Cold start injector clean 223,000
Steering wheel and horn cover glue
Replaced brass horn pin
Right and left side rear quarter panel rust remediation
Brake fluid flush
Front and rear differential fluid change 223,000 miles
Power steering fluid refresh
Tail lights replaced with LED
Replaced dash pad
New lug nuts
Repair rip in passenger door card
Clean and lube all locks and window tracks
Alternator replaced 225;000
New OEM speedometer cable and cable housing
Clean EGR valve 226,000
Adjust valve clearance 226,000
Adjust timing 226,000
Replace brake master and booster 226,000
New OEM brake pedal bumper
Replaced speedometer grommet going through transmission tunnel
Replace speedometer/odometer and match to orig mileage
Replace PCVvalve and grommet 228,000
Bosh iridium plugs 228,000
AC recharge 228,000
Replaced fuel filter 229,000
Just adding in some of the other work I did but didn’t post previously in case I lose the files on my computer.
Replaced EGR gasket with OEM 223,000
Throttle body clean 223,000
Mass airflow meter clean 223,000
Cold start injector clean 223,000
Steering wheel and horn cover glue
Replaced brass horn pin
Right and left side rear quarter panel rust remediation
Brake fluid flush
Front and rear differential fluid change 223,000 miles
Power steering fluid refresh
Tail lights replaced with LED
Replaced dash pad
New lug nuts
Repair rip in passenger door card
Clean and lube all locks and window tracks
Alternator replaced 225;000
New OEM speedometer cable and cable housing
Clean EGR valve 226,000
Adjust valve clearance 226,000
Adjust timing 226,000
Replace brake master and booster 226,000
New OEM brake pedal bumper
Replaced speedometer grommet going through transmission tunnel
Replace speedometer/odometer and match to orig mileage
Replace PCVvalve and grommet 228,000
Bosh iridium plugs 228,000
AC recharge 228,000
Replaced fuel filter 229,000
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #66
Rust prevention day. Bought a 3 can FluidFilm pack with 360 degree nozzle.
This stuff smells awful so I’ll let it sit overnight with door open to dissipate the aroma.
Shot the doors, internal/external frame, rockers and a bunch of other areas under the truck.
Luckily the doors and rockers had been drilled and plugged when sold new so getting the fluid into these areas was as easy as removing a rubber plug.
This stuff smells awful so I’ll let it sit overnight with door open to dissipate the aroma.
Shot the doors, internal/external frame, rockers and a bunch of other areas under the truck.
Luckily the doors and rockers had been drilled and plugged when sold new so getting the fluid into these areas was as easy as removing a rubber plug.
I did the same thing to my rockers.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #69
They say the dead rodent smell goes away in 3 days (warm weather)
Fingers crossed, nose plugged
Fingers crossed, nose plugged
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #72
It has a 380 degree nozzle on a long tube. You snake it in there and spray while slowly pulling it out.
I also sprayed (with a normal spray can top) the exterior of the frame.
In real wet and salty areas it’s recommended annually, down here in TX every few years.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #73
Quick update...the Fluid Film sprayed on the undercarriage stopped smelling after a couple of days.
The stink from inside the doors is still noticeable but getting less so every day.
Finishing up a couple of last projects. Adjusted the valves, three times til I got it just right. Idles MUCH better now.
Took the opportunity to replace the brittle valve cover bolt seats and got new ones from Specter Offroad.
The stink from inside the doors is still noticeable but getting less so every day.
Finishing up a couple of last projects. Adjusted the valves, three times til I got it just right. Idles MUCH better now.
Took the opportunity to replace the brittle valve cover bolt seats and got new ones from Specter Offroad.
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EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #74
And taking care of some of the larger rust spots on my wheels.
At some point I have to rechrome everything but until then:
1. Rust converter
2. Oil paint pen from craft store
3. When it dries I’ll hit the wheels with Pb blaster and some crumpled aluminum foil. That takes off minor pitting rust and shines then up. Have to do that every couple of months.
At some point I have to rechrome everything but until then:
1. Rust converter
2. Oil paint pen from craft store
3. When it dries I’ll hit the wheels with Pb blaster and some crumpled aluminum foil. That takes off minor pitting rust and shines then up. Have to do that every couple of months.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #75
Now that I have adjusted and readjusted my valves a couple of times I thought I’d share what I found.
Learning the art of slight drag on a feeler gauge is hard.
I have found that using the lighter side of slight drag makes the engine perform much better in the middle of the power range.
I tightened then until the feeler gauge was stuck and then backed off until I felt drag equivalent to pulling scotch tape off a wooden desktop.
It seems to be the best balance between noisy valves and solid performance.
Learning the art of slight drag on a feeler gauge is hard.
I have found that using the lighter side of slight drag makes the engine perform much better in the middle of the power range.
I tightened then until the feeler gauge was stuck and then backed off until I felt drag equivalent to pulling scotch tape off a wooden desktop.
It seems to be the best balance between noisy valves and solid performance.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #76
Quick update...don’t put Fluid Film inside your doors. It still offers me up a disgusting scent every time I open or close the door or roll down the window. Undercarriage yes, inside doors no.
Finally started rehabbing the replacement transmission skid plate for the one my wife accidentally threw away when I worked on the valve body.
Finally started rehabbing the replacement transmission skid plate for the one my wife accidentally threw away when I worked on the valve body.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #77
Decided to (hopefully) cut down on some of the wind noise on the rig.
Replaced the drivers side door gasket.
Much simpler exercise than I expected.
Replaced the drivers side door gasket.
Much simpler exercise than I expected.
- You have to remove the pin that attaches the metal bar retainer between the door frame and the vehicle body. Be careful not to lose the small metal ring that keeps the pin from rattling.
- Have some pliers ready as when your u remove the old gasket the plastic retainers will stay in the door.
- On the new gasket..... put in the the areas with plastic retainer clips first, then hook the inside (facing interior of truck) lip of the gasket on the doorframe, finally push the outside lip into the door frame with the backside of a 90 degree pick.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Did replacing them help with wind noise?
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #79
It did
Mine was pretty flat running up my A Pillar and the new one seals much better.
I have to close my door hard until it conforms
It’s an aftermarket door seal so I’ll see how it hold up. The fit is perfect.
Mine was pretty flat running up my A Pillar and the new one seals much better.
I have to close my door hard until it conforms
It’s an aftermarket door seal so I’ll see how it hold up. The fit is perfect.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #80
Resonant noise on freeway fixed, found an out of true rim which I replaced.
Vibration in drivetrain fixed by balancing from and rear driveshafts
Tick in engine fixed my filing the rocker arm in #5 cylinder
UPDATE ON RUST PROOFING - never spray FluidFilm inside of your doors. While the sour smell disappeared from the undercarriage application, the smell in the doors lingers and and offers up a dose of “gym sock” on warm days and anytime you roll down the windows. I plan on pulling the door cards off and cleaning the crap out of the inside of each
Vibration in drivetrain fixed by balancing from and rear driveshafts
Tick in engine fixed my filing the rocker arm in #5 cylinder
UPDATE ON RUST PROOFING - never spray FluidFilm inside of your doors. While the sour smell disappeared from the undercarriage application, the smell in the doors lingers and and offers up a dose of “gym sock” on warm days and anytime you roll down the windows. I plan on pulling the door cards off and cleaning the crap out of the inside of each
