Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (16 Viewers)

[GA Architect]

Years ago, I was in the process of replacing the old brittle firewall grommets. So a MUD member was helping supply some of these grommets, and added a few extras. One of the extras was for the hole that is under my 77's fuel tank. So I installed it, as seen below.

Recently, I saw a thread that had an OEM part number #90950-01901 that could be used for this application. So I ordered one....It came in the other day, so I decided to install it. When I removed the old grommet, here is what I found.

Obviously, at times, a small amount of water had been sitting above the grommet. We all know our rigs aren't the best water proofed vehicle out there. So maybe these holes shouldn't plugged to provide drainage on the off-chance some moisture gets into our rigs?

I'm posting this for those that have plugged this hole, you may want to check it from time to time to make sure you don't create a rust situation below your fuel tank.

 

[Dizzy]

I'm thinking condensation. Cold air sinks - lowest part of the tub kinda thing. Or, the fuel and floor are cold, the cab heater is warm. Just like how manufactures use a vapor barrier behind the door cards to keep the doors from rusting internally.

I wonder if the plug just needs a tiny vent hole made with a paper hole puncher?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Old veteran 40 owner once told me to drill more holes in the tub for this very reason. Washing rig interior is also easier.

 

[Steamer]

Maybe spray a good dose of waxy/greasy rust inhibitor up in there?

 

[middlecalf]

Trade off. Need a good sized hole to be able to drain the fuel tank, and need something to keep junk from migrating into that hole. Plug.

 

[merbesfield]

Years ago, I was in the process of replacing the old brittle firewall grommets. So a MUD member was helping supply some of these grommets, and added a few extras. One of the extras was for the hole that is under my 77's fuel tank. So I installed it, as seen below.

View attachment 2731798

Recently, I saw a thread that had an OEM part number #90950-01901 that could be used for this application. So I ordered one....It came in the other day, so I decided to install it. When I removed the old grommet, here is what I found.


View attachment 2731800

Obviously, at times, a small amount of water had been sitting above the grommet. We all know our rigs aren't the best water proofed vehicle out there. So maybe these holes shouldn't plugged to provide drainage on the off-chance some moisture gets into our rigs?

I'm posting this for those that have plugged this hole, you may want to check it from time to time to make sure you don't create a rust situation below your fuel tank.

My vote is not to use them so any water has a way out. Or small hole as suggested above. Porsche uses a flapper type setup that lets water out but not in. Works until it gets clogged.

 

[Michael B]

Rick I agree with all of the above responses. I would add that with the plug removed you will get more water inside the truck due to rain mist while driving and the occasional water crossing. Then you will add more dust and dirt to the equation as well. This combination will give more opportunity for rust to develop with the plug out than with it installed. Living in the south east you are very likely getting heavy condensation during the summer months.

 

[GA Architect]

There two smaller holes that I also plugged in the fuel tank well. Maybe I remove them, clean up the rust-dust on the fuel tank, and re-install the larger plug?

 

[Braden620]

@GA Architect info on the small plugs? My 75' has some holes that small and I need to fill em! Thanks Dude.

 

[GA Architect]

@GA Architect info on the small plugs? My 75' has some holes that small and I need to fill em! Thanks Dude.

Last night I cleaned up the rustiness, reinstalled the larger grommet, and removed the rear smaller one. The small hole plugs are just some I used from a kit I have.

Also, while under there messing with the grommets, I noticed my rear break line at the rear frame tab was missing the 96991-10080 clip. That clip secures the soft line joint at the hard line connection. For years I've been chasing a rattle in the rear that I could NEVER EVER find from inside my rig. It only occurred at bumps in the road. Well, I decided to zip-tie the joint secure to the tab, and guess what....NO FRIGGING MYSTERIOUS RATTLES ON MY WAY TO WORK!!!!!

'Heck Ya! ---- WINNER-WINNER!!!! ----- BOOOOOM!' Yep, I'm pleased!


Now to get the correct part and cut off the zip tie.

 

[Michael B]

It really is the “little things in life”!

 

[Grouchy]

Recently purchased a few items to refurbish. Not sure of the long term effects, but initially it did the trick.....and that is soaking these switches in Evaporust. Then cleaned them with water, took my air hose and blew them dry, then coated with WD-40.

Below, the middle two switches (Hazard & Heater) have already soaked over night, but the light and wiper haven't.
View attachment 1588855 View attachment 1588857

After all them have been soaked and cleaned up.View attachment 1588858 View attachment 1588859
I was amazed at how well the Evaporust really cleaned these items. Note, I did repaint the knob lettering.

I am fascinated with your project and am happily trolling through the history. One question on this step I have for you is the tool used to tighten/loosen the pin nuts on these switches (to secure the switch to the dash). Can anyone comment the best tool for the job? Thanks everyone!

Back on this page:

Builds - The Architect's '77 FJ40

Have you done a test suspension flex? Like on a ramp or something? Just eyeing your pics I think your rear tires will kiss the fender b4 the bumpstops. Its pretty easy to install bumpstop spacers if you need to.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[GA Architect]

I am fascinated with your project and am happily trolling through the history. One question on this step I have for you is the tool used to tighten/loosen the pin nuts on these switches (to secure the switch to the dash). Can anyone comment the best tool for the job? Thanks everyone!

I used a tool similar to this.

I think a set of needle nose pliers will work also?

 

[pjohnson]

I used one of these. Not quite as nice as the tool above. They come in a couple of different sizes.

Park Tool Bicycle Bottom Bracket Pin Spanner Bicycle Tool SPA-2​

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I used a tool similar to this.

View attachment 2736694

I think a set of needle nose pliers will work also?

I am fascinated with your project and am happily trolling through the history. One question on this step I have for you is the tool used to tighten/loosen the pin nuts on these switches (to secure the switch to the dash). Can anyone comment the best tool for the job? Thanks everyone!

Back on this page:

Builds - The Architect's '77 FJ40

Have you done a test suspension flex? Like on a ramp or something? Just eyeing your pics I think your rear tires will kiss the fender b4 the bumpstops. Its pretty easy to install bumpstop spacers if you need to.

forum.ih8mud.com

I used one of these. Not quite as nice as the tool above. They come in a couple of different sizes.

Park Tool Bicycle Bottom Bracket Pin Spanner Bicycle Tool SPA-2​

Rick is SPOT ON !

i ONLY use Right Angle snap ring pliers as well

here is the reason why :

you need to apply the rotational twisting force needed to remove nut as we all would assume ...

BUT , if u DO NOT apply a DEATH GRIP amount of front to back horizonal pressure at the same exact time , the snap ring pliars WILL slip out of the FEMALE pins holes in the retainer nuts and wipe a huge scratch in the paint of the dash ........

i have made this mistake once , thankfully it was on my own FJ43L-KC not a clients truck ..........


i hope this makes sense , but twist and push in hard twards dash at same time is the idea

i also apply a blue type painters tape around the area of work as cheap insurance in case i slip out were to occur ?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[Grouchy]

those are exactly what I am talking about! Thanks everyone!!!

 

[fj40fillet]

I am fascinated with your project and am happily trolling through the history. One question on this step I have for you is the tool used to tighten/loosen the pin nuts on these switches (to secure the switch to the dash). Can anyone comment the best tool for the job? Thanks everyone!

Back on this page:

Builds - The Architect's '77 FJ40

Have you done a test suspension flex? Like on a ramp or something? Just eyeing your pics I think your rear tires will kiss the fender b4 the bumpstops. Its pretty easy to install bumpstop spacers if you need to.

forum.ih8mud.com

I always use a pair of circle spring clip plyers on those. Spread the plyers to match to two holes. Works great.

 

[GA Architect]

Had some brackets powder coated.

Upgrading my AC bracket to a newer Vintage Air unit. This will also better align my fan belts. The AC will run on one belt and the ALT will run on another, in lieu of them on the same belt. So, out with the old bracket.

Now to clean up the compartment a bit and bend up a new set of fuel supply & return lines.

 

[GA Architect]

Bracket installed. New fuel lines bent. Now to install the tube sleeves & nuts and flare the lines. Then connect the fuel lines. Finally reinstall the ALT & AC compressor and the new fan belts.