Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40

[ryanwk628]

The steel units get the steel crush washers, the aluminum units get the aluminum washer, and the oil pan gets it own washer. All plugs have a washer and a bead of the sealant. The sealant shouldn't be necessary, but I use it.

Who sells that JS CV-101V filter? Is it the same size as the B2?

 

[GA Architect]

Who sells that JS CV-101V filter? Is it the same size as the B2?

FitinPart.sg -> click here <- Yes, the B2 & CV-101V are both cross referenced for the 15600-41010 filter.

Here is the video of how I came about the JS Asakashi filters -> click here <-

 

[GA Architect]

Maybe it’s just new packaging, but I’ve always used the blue lid VR-1 as I thought the non-blue was true racing oil meant to be changed much more often?

......8 of these went into the crankcase. Also, the blue caps fit my oil drain pan spout. (small win!)

 

[ryanwk628]

View attachment 2773775 ......8 of these went into the crankcase. Also, the blue caps fit my oil drain pan spout. (small win!)

This post made me do a double take but I think it is just the packaging. I reordered the same thing on Amazon as I had a few years ago and it came in as above while the old ones were in different packaging (I have a spare qt I keep in the truck.) I think I can take a side by side when I get home (unless I dumped the old stuff in my lawn mower.) A lot of the reviews are people using it for classic vehicles with flat-tappet engines. They dont show any street specific VR1 I can find on their website. The only difference is they have a black bottle which is full synthetic VR1.

"Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too."

 

[Skreddy]

I just checked Valvoline’s site and only see those 2 as well. They used to (or still do but it’s harder to find) make a VR1 NSL; non-street legal, that had less detergents and meant for racers that were going to change it every weekend (I believe). When I built my Chevelle engine a few years ago, I remember almost getting the wrong stuff locally and someone warned me against it. That was right around the time they changed the lids blue too.

 

[85roktoy]

Didn’t get much done at work today because I found this build last night. Amazing attention to detail. Inspired me to take the beast out for a spin this afternoon!

 

[FJnutcase]

Didn’t get much done at work today because I found this build last night. Amazing attention to detail. Inspired me to take the beast out for a spin this afternoon!

View attachment 2774215

Unbelievable 85Roktoy! I too have spent that last our reading through some of this build. Fast forwarded to the last page and I run into your post! Great meeting you today. Nice rig.

 

[85roktoy]

Unbelievable 85Roktoy! I too have spent that last our reading through some of this build. Fast forwarded to the last page and I run into your post! Great meeting you today. Nice rig.

Same to you!! Small world we live in!

 

[GA Architect]

Spent a week in the Panhandle and met some MUD members and enjoyed the LC conversations, @85roktoy & @thatcabledude . Even ventured onto Grayton Beach in @thatcabledude sweet 80 and had to help recover a Harley out of the sand!

@85roktoy nice 40:

The PCB sunset on Friday, cruising down 30A:

 

[TheHardWay]

Sure would have liked seeing that Harley being pulled out of the sand...

 

[GA Architect]

Sure would have liked seeing that Harley being pulled out of the sand...

For some pics, see post #69,543 -> click here <-

The scooter guy was getting HECKLED from the near by tenants.

 

[JAG666]

View attachment 2773775 ......8 of these went into the crankcase. Also, the blue caps fit my oil drain pan spout. (small win!)

GA; It's really a misnomer to call oils like Valvoline VR1 "Racing Oil"... What it is, in actuality, the "type" of oil we USE TO USE before EPA started making oil (aka: "High Zinc" as you have pictured)!! In short, most forms of what is now labeled "racing oil" simply has the correct "percentage" of "ZDDP" in it for pre-emission engines!! That is, the type of oil we used BEFORE zinc was "outlawed" by EPA for use in "modern" (emission) cars.. To rephrase, if your engine has a "flat-tappet cam", than you should use any oil containing Zinc.. If you have a "newer" "emission control engine (those factory built with "Roller Cams") you MUST use oil without "ZDDP", or any zinc additives!) The Zinc acts like a "shock absorber" between metal-to-metal parts in your engine!
Now, here is the real kicker.. An older (pre-emission) engine will live longer if a ZDDP oil is used.. AND one changes the oil every 2500/3000 miles (or every three months!).
Charles 1974 FJ40.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

GA; It's really a misnomer to call oils like Valvoline VR1 "Racing Oil"... What it is, in actuality, the "type" of oil we USE TO USE before EPA started making oil (aka: "High Zinc" as you have pictured)!! In short, most forms of what is now labeled "racing oil" simply has the correct "percentage" of "ZDDP" in it for pre-emission engines!! That is, the type of oil we used BEFORE zinc was "outlawed" by EPA for use in "modern" (emission) cars.. To rephrase, if your engine has a "flat-tappet cam", than you should use any oil containing Zinc.. If you have a "newer" "emission control engine (those factory built with "Roller Cams") you MUST use oil without "ZDDP", or any zinc additives!) The Zinc acts like a "shock absorber" between metal-to-metal parts in your engine!
Now, here is the real kicker.. An older (pre-emission) engine will live longer if a ZDDP oil is used.. AND one changes the oil every 2500/3000 miles (or every three months!).
Charles 1974 FJ40.

Where are you getting that information? Regular Mobil 1 has 1000 ppm ZDDP and that regular Valvoline VR1 only has a bit more at 1300 ppm. I'm not sure you'll find any oil, especially synthetic, without ZDDP but admittedly that's just an educated guess.

 

[alabamatacomaguy]

I’m a few days late seeing you were down here. Hope your trip was nice. It’s been some fantastic weather the last couple of weeks.
Looks like some fun shenanigans were had. if you ate at any great places I’m always trying to update my go to places.

 

[GA Architect]

The air cleaner intake hose in my engine bay started showing signs of dry-rot, and cracking in the bellows, so it was time to replace. The typical option for a new one is City Racer's piece or some thick corrugated unit. With some time on my hands last week, I set out to see what I could find from Toyota's vast array of air cleaner hoses they use. Here is what I came up with for about $70:

Note, I did do a little 5 minute modification to it. This Toyota (FJ62) hose has some sort of molded-in hose clamp that I cut/sawed out and used my Dremel to sand down. Let me just say, the rubber on this hose is on the thick & sturdy side and seems like it should last quite a while.

I have another OEM part ordered as well, and if it works, I'll post it too.

 

[GA Architect]

Washed it Saturday while I was smoking some ribs, and then took it to a Sunday morning LC meet-up at Lake Lanier Dam.

Park at the dam.

 

[imyahucklbrry]

No comment on other rides but that’s a smart looking 40 mixed in there!

 

[Engineer8000]

FitinPart.sg -> click here <- Yes, the B2 & CV-101V are both cross referenced for the 15600-41010 filter.

Here is the video of how I came about the JS Asakashi filters -> click here <-

Thanks for posting the link to that video. I have lost faith in Toyota oil filters and will be getting one of those CV-101V filters.

 

[JDNs78FJ40]

Thanks for posting the link to that video. I have lost faith in Toyota oil filters and will be getting one of those CV-101V filters.

Which one did you order?

 

[Engineer8000]

Have not ordered yet but I will go with the js c101v