Steering gear box rebuild (1 Viewer)

[DarkHorse1HDT]

Did this today, thanks a heap for the walk-through.

I think I stumbled on all the usual issues:

1) pitman took a bit of grunt, but a proper beefy puller and 2ft breaker bar did the job. If you don't have a vice consider doing this on the car so it's held in place.

2) Plunger guide nut is just a horrible design. Solution:

3) input shaft preload was too tight when I got the locking collar back to my marks. Tapped it back off 1mm, keeping the actual cap lined up, and it freed up.

4) worm gear balls are a proper pain. Took a good couple of hours. No such thing as too much lube. I think I got them all in... but what magic stops them spitting out the top of the piston on extension?

5) teflon ring inside rubber o-ring is tricky. Eventually got it with the heart-shape method.

6) shaved the teflon ring on re-insertion. Tiny sliver. Going with it, but I'll keep the original in case.

Now to weld up the chassis so I can put it back in!

 

[alia176]

Good job dude!!

 

[fz1boxer]

when you guys are using a pitman arm puller,tap the pitman arm as you are tightening the puller,it will come off much easier with patience.

 

[alia176]

when you guys are using a pitman arm puller,tap the pitman arm as you are tightening the puller,it will come off much easier with patience.

Please elaborate!!!

 

[fz1boxer]

apply pressure to the pitman arm using the puller,tap(with a hammer) the pitman arm 90 degrees from where the legs of the puller mate to the arm.it takes time but this is a press fit.as you tap you will find that you can tighten the puller ever so slightly.it will pop then you can remove the arm using the puller.the shock of the hammer hitting the arm will make it pop.

 

[Box Rocket]

Great timing that this was brought back to the top of the page. Planning to do the 105 sector shaft conversion/rebuild to my spare steering box soon.

Thank you to OP and others who have contributed to this thread. Very well done "how-to".

 

[DarkHorse1HDT]

Good job dude!!

Thanks man.

Oh, one more little tip - a 27mm socket makes the perfect seal driver for the input seal and bearing... until the last 4mm of travel. The bore of the housing tapers in at the end so I had to switch to a 24mmm to get them home.

 

[cleobranan]

This is the second time I’ve seen the inside of an 80 series gearbox. I bought a used box this summer and rebuilt it with the help of a good friend and Lexus mechanic. Then we swapped it onto the truck in place of the original box, which was leaking from the input seal. Unfortunately, I managed to blow the input seal a couple weeks ago after mucking around with the adjusting screw. The leak was catastrophic, to the point where I had to park the truck because the system would pump itself dry on the trip to or from work. I ordered up a steering gear box reseal kit from Kerry (gotmud) last week, picked it up today and put the box back together tonight (I disassembled it last night). I figured that a full write-up was in order so I took many photos along the way. I sandblasted the box first which cleaned up the outside very well. I repainted the box once it was back together. I also only replaced one Teflon seal (at the bottom of the gear box housing), as they were a huge pain during the first rebuild and they don't seem to wear or age at all.

So without any further ado, on to the fun stuff!

Part numbers:
Toyota gear box reseal kit: 04445-60050
Power piston plunger guide nut: 44154-30020
Input shaft seal part number (not from Toyota See post #28): 18-32-7-DL

DISASSEMBLY

Step 1: Removing the pitman arm.

This was a challenge on both rebuilds, but a 20-ton press managed to pop the arm off (as well as scaring everyone else in the building!) after removing the 32mm nut. I don’t have a press at home, but I was able to get some help for that again this time.

Before:

After:

Step 2: Removing the sector shaft.

Start by removing the adjusting screw lock nut. A 17mm wrench and standard screwdriver are required here.

Note the seal washer:

Next, remove the side cover. Take out the four bolts holding the side cover on. I used a 14mm socket on an electric impact gun.

With the bolts removed, use the screwdriver to tighten (clockwise) the adjusting screw. This will push the side cover out of the box.

Nice needle bearing:

At this point, the sector shaft can be tapped out of the box with a soft-faced mallet

More needle bearings, and notice the power piston teeth in the foreground.

There is a seal, snap ring, metal ring, Teflon ring, and rubber O-ring in the bottom of the box. Remove them all, but leave the bearing in place. You may need to sand the corrosion off the box housing below the seal to allow you to get the metal ring out.

Step 3: Removing the worm gear valve body assembly.

Remove the power piston plunger guide nut. This should only require a 10mm Allen wrench, but in both cases I've seen it has required a cold chisel and some patience. I've listed the part number above as it is a cheap replacement.

Next, take out the four bolts holding the valve body head to the gearbox. I used the 14mm socket on my electric impact again.

Turn the input shaft all the way to the left. This will push the power piston to front of the gearbox. When it bottoms out on the front of the box it will start pushing the valve body out of the box. You can also use a screwdriver to coax it out.

This is the complete worm gear valve body assembly. Note the Teflon ring that can be replaced

This the metal tube that the ball bearings recirculate through (hence recirculating ball steering)

This worm gear moves the piston back and forth, which twists the sector shaft and pitman arm.

The inside of the gearbox. Don’t forget to replace the two little O-rings.

All the parts you have removed so far

Continued below...

12th photo from top with Allen socket this is where mine leaks from is there a seal or why would it leak there ? Thanks I’m advance for your help

 

[-Spike-]

12th photo from top with Allen socket this is where mine leaks from is there a seal or why would it leak there ? Thanks I’m advance for your help

 

[cleobranan]

View attachment 2483563

So I just need to remove and replace oring and that should hopefully stop my leak

 

[nrl073]

I performed this today on my 1988 Toyota Pickup 4WD and it seemed to go well until I got everything back in the truck. I turned the steering wheel before starting the truck while still on jackstands and the wheels did not turn. Before this, while the box was still on the bench, I could turn the input shaft with my hand and it would turn the output shaft, so I figured everything was in order. Filled reservor with ATF and started the truck. Heard some gurgling sounds and the pump started to make noise so I shut it off. Only ran it for 30 seconds or so. The steering wheel spins very freely and the wheels still do not turn at all. Any ideas?

 

[6ta1]

Thank you very much for the useful how to.

Does anyone know what the plunger guide does? I received a replacement steering box for my 90 4Runner and the new one does not have the plunger guide, I amwondering if I should worry about it.

Thanks

 

[LuckyOreo]

WOW this pitman arm is no joke. What puller did you guys use? I am using a HF puller and it is not budging .

 

[baldilocks]

WOW this pitman arm is no joke. What puller did you guys use? I am using a HF puller and it is not budging .

Are you using a put a arm puller or a gear puller? You can apply pressure with the puller and then wack the pitman arm about the sector shaft with a hammer. Then crank the puller a little then wack some more.

 

[ArmyFJ]

I used a puller similar to the one in this video and the hammer and heat to get mine pulled.


The video is pretty good overall but I’d recommend watching it all the way through - not in steps because there are some mistakes and redos.

 

[Mat Jadamec]

I used this after trying everything else....for reference that's a 3/4 hex. I don't remember what online tool store I bought it on but pretty sure

it wasn't too expensive.

 

[bajaphile]

I really like that puller above.

Just did this on my 2001 F350, bought the OTC 6497 and it was like butter. Should work well on the 80 when the time comes.

 

[Stumpalama]

WOW this pitman arm is no joke. What puller did you guys use? I am using a HF puller and it is not budging .

The double hammer trick has worked better than any puller I've used.

 

[alia176]

The double hammer trick has worked better than any puller I've used.

The double hammer trick has worked better than any puller I've used.

You mean stick it in a vice then smack the arm with double hammers at the same time without using a puller? If so then

 

[LuckyOreo]

Torch and hammer with the puller did the trick. Anybody know the exact number of those little bearing balls are in the gear box?