Rebuilt Gear Box End Cover Gasket Leaking (5 Viewers)

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Mar 20, 2021
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Location
Allen Texas
Installed a rebuilt OEM gearbox from a reputable online shop about 5 months ago and a couple days ago I noticed ATF dripping below the box. I took a video and it looks like the end cap gasket either isn't there or blew out. My question is, can I just remove the sector shaft end cap and replace the gasket by simply removing the screw lock nut and four bolts? Will this throw anything out of adjustment? Does anyone know where to get that gasket and part number?


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Taking this cap off will mess up the preload. Doable, sure. But not as straightforward as remove the cap, replace the o-ring and throw it back on.
 
Taking this cap off will mess up the preload. Doable, sure. But not as straightforward as remove the cap, replace the o-ring and throw it back on.
Do you know if I count the threads and/or height of the current setting screw, I can just match that after replacing the o-ring and be good to go?
 
I am not an expert. I've rebuilt exactly one steering box. :) I think a lot of people will tell you it is totally doable, and will be fine. I'm more of a by the book guy, so I'd worry about overtightening or undertightening.
 
The oring isn't setting the postion of the endcap. I'd measure the protrusion of the preload screw sticking out of the endcap with a set of calipers before disassembly. If you can reassemble it within a couple thousandths, I'd go for it.
 
The oring isn't setting the postion of the endcap. I'd measure the protrusion of the preload screw sticking out of the endcap with a set of calipers before disassembly. If you can reassemble it within a couple thousandths, I'd go for it.
Sorry, I meant the preload screw. I didn't realize it had to be so precise. Thanks for the advice!
 
I think I have a ps box rebuilt kit which should have the large O ring. If you want the kit, send me a PM and I"ll go dig it out. It's been sitting in the drawer for a bit since I opted to get a rebuilt unit from Redhead.
 
I think I have a ps box rebuilt kit which should have the large O ring. If you want the kit, send me a PM and I"ll go dig it out. It's been sitting in the drawer for a bit since I opted to get a rebuilt unit from Redhead.
I appreciate that, but I ordered one yesterday.
 
As an aside, Redhat rebuilders are now securing this top nut with a custom made concoction so that the nut doesn't loosen up over time and losing the pre-load. I made my own after my nut kept undoing itself. I returned that box for another one then all was good afterwards. I didn't need my DIY thing.

PSA: make the witness marks like I did after your get PS box rebuilt and then installed just to make sure that top nut isn't losing preload. ;)

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As an aside, Redhat rebuilders are now securing this top nut with a custom made concoction so that the nut doesn't loosen up over time and losing the pre-load. I made my own after my nut kept undoing itself. I returned that box for another one then all was good afterwards. I didn't need my DIY thing.

PSA: make the witness marks like I did after your get PS box rebuilt and then installed just to make sure that top nut isn't losing preload. ;)

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The sad part about all this, is the fact this was a rebuilt steering box. Lasted three months with no leaks. I don't even go offroading because I live in Dallas. I am in contact with the vendor, hope they do the right thing and pay to have it fixed.
 
The sad part about all this, is the fact this was a rebuilt steering box. Lasted three months with no leaks. I don't even go offroading because I live in Dallas. I am in contact with the vendor, hope they do the right thing and pay to have it fixed.
It happens and the process to remove is a PITA, but if they try to make you whole, that's a win in my book.
 
What if we used a product like green loctite that wicks into threads? Would that provide similar security? I have some left over from Porsche 996 IMS bearing replacements. I just wrapped up a steering box rebuild and I marked the nut and bolt position with a yellow paint pen as witness marks.
 
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As an aside, Redhat rebuilders are now securing this top nut with a custom made concoction so that the nut doesn't loosen up over time and losing the pre-load. I made my own after my nut kept undoing itself. I returned that box for another one then all was good afterwards. I didn't need my DIY thing.

PSA: make the witness marks like I did after your get PS box rebuilt and then installed just to make sure that top nut isn't losing preload. ;)

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As another data point. My freshly rebuilt (by me) box has 20 miles on it. I torqued the nut to fsm spec. It has moved...

Note that when I had adjusted the box to spec, I added the yellow paint pen dots on the cap, lined up with the slot in the threaded post, and the nut, so I had a reference. My thought was it is the position of the threaded post that matters most to the preload, since it is threaded into the cap, setting the depth of the sector shaft, which sets the preload. The dots on the nut were more of a telltale to see if the nut had backed off relative to the screwdriver slot.

Also, this is much harder to access in the engine bay once the battery box is reinstalled!

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Good is that the vendor is sending me a new box, bad is that it takes 4 weeks and I have to do this install again! What a PITA.
 

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