NLXTACY
Wits' End
Impossible without machining the turbo housing.
Builds Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter spyduh
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Impossible without machining the turbo housing.
- Thread starter
- #282
How much we talking about here? Will I need to sell my kidney?
It's worth it for me to get a better clamping solution. I'll buy a new housing and dp if needed. Or I can ship you my DP and housing for machining to save cost?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Oh please no. At least not yet. Let me catch up with existing orders before I start going down this rabbit hole
- Thread starter
- #284
hmmm
perfecttuning.net
Borg Warner S200 S300 V-band marmon flange kit 3" 3.5" - PerfectTuning
4.21" 3/4 Marmon Outlet Does not fit the S400 housings 304 stainless made Can be use with 3" and 3.5" tube.
This joint is a Marmon flange it is not a V-band joint. That is why it looks the way it does. It is a 4.21" joint used by Borg Warner for years before V-band flanges came out. The Marmon flange or wedged joint was invented by one of the Marx brothers in 1941. Borg Warner for whatever reason insists on using the Marmon flange on all of their Airwerks turbos because they say it seals better.
Now I am not going to say anything that hasn't already been said but you CAN NOT use a v-band to pull a joint together. You need to understand what you need to do to get the joint approximated before you tighten the clamp. And once you tighten the clamp if you over tighten it you ruin the seal. The clamp works on a simple wedging action. It does not get better the tighter you tighten it.
Now I am not going to say anything that hasn't already been said but you CAN NOT use a v-band to pull a joint together. You need to understand what you need to do to get the joint approximated before you tighten the clamp. And once you tighten the clamp if you over tighten it you ruin the seal. The clamp works on a simple wedging action. It does not get better the tighter you tighten it.
I think that's the hard part. I definitely over tightened mine initially. Not sure it was enough to mess up the vband but definitely seemed too tight/like it wasnt sealing. That's why i lined mine up and just barely tightened it, then the wastegate, then lower vband last.
I don't see any evidence of leaks, or indications such as overboosting, but I should double check.
- Thread starter
- #287
If you need a new top vband. This is where I bought mine. shipping was pretty reasonable too!
I ended up buying 3. It cost $74 shipped with tax. So $24.67 each.
www.kartek.com
I ended up buying 3. It cost $74 shipped with tax. So $24.67 each.
Clampco V-Band Replacement Clamp Only For 3-1/2" Inside Diameter Exhaust Couplings - Kartek Off-Road
V-Band clamp assemblies are an excellent alternative to traditional flange or slip fit tube connections and are ideal for high pressure exhaust and intake applications. V Band flange assemblies work especially well under operating conditions involving stress, vibration and significant...
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Can you guys buy R134 off the shelf?
- Thread starter
- #290
You can at local auto store but need a AC license to purchase.
I have a buddy who is licensed. He came over with his tank for a quick fill. AC fills only take a couple minutes to charge. The time consuming part is the vac down. I invested in my own AC tools because it seems I always need to do AC on my cars or trucks. Ive used my vac compressor over 7 times already and it's paid for itself.
- Thread starter
- #292
I've been thinking of making a custom heat shield that goes on top of that area to protect my hood from getting crispy. Maybe a thin sheet metal to deflect the heat down toward the engine bay.
Guess I'm headed down a similar path
Got the first long cruise and noticed the burnt insulation that wasn't there a week ago
View attachment 2309895
Toyo Boyo
SILVER Star
Incredible build, your commitment is to be applauded!
Are you thinking of adding an intercooler at some point? And did you use 'colder' spark plugs? (I know here was some discussion a while ago about using MR2 Turbo plugs on turbo'd rigs)
Are you thinking of adding an intercooler at some point? And did you use 'colder' spark plugs? (I know here was some discussion a while ago about using MR2 Turbo plugs on turbo'd rigs)
mehbohdi
SILVER Star
^^^ plugs come with kit, I think they are MR2.
I just did the ac on my DD and bought all components and 3 cans of 134a. No questions asked. No license required.
- Thread starter
- #296
Yea of you buy small cans no problem. But those small cans are stupid expensive. My buddy has the 5gallon sized tank (commercial size) those are $90 on sale sometimes but you can only buy those with an AC license. I think those tanks can do dozens of cars.
- Thread starter
- #297
Yea mr2 turbo plugs come with Joey's kit.
Ive been thinking IC but i have no idea where I can put it. I'm think water meth kit next.
- Thread starter
- #298
Build update. Ive been battling cooling issues as some of you have read in other turbo threads. It gets hot when. You going 80+.
I bought a @Photoman reduced (15%) fan pulley and installed it today. Had to install it twice because as soon as i started it up it was squealing like a banchee. I thought the belt was misaligned so I loosened and made sure it was in the channel and tighten the belt even more. Well that made it even louder when I started it.
Tore it apart again and found that the bottom water pump stud was just catching the inner pulley. I took a file and took it down 2-3 threads and put it all together. Fired it up and instantly noticed a difference in air flow on first start idle speeds.
Note: im using @Photoman Alternator bracket as well as his smaller alt pulley with 150amp sequoia alt.
I test drove it to my buddies house and it got hot. But not as hot as usual though. Seems to have reduced my temps down by 6-8 idle and 2-4 F degrees at 80mph. Depends if AC is on and I'm driving it like I stole it.
Here's my temp stats on this thread. There are 2 posts with numbers for Day temp stats (90F) and Night temp stats (65F).
I bought a @Photoman reduced (15%) fan pulley and installed it today. Had to install it twice because as soon as i started it up it was squealing like a banchee. I thought the belt was misaligned so I loosened and made sure it was in the channel and tighten the belt even more. Well that made it even louder when I started it.
Tore it apart again and found that the bottom water pump stud was just catching the inner pulley. I took a file and took it down 2-3 threads and put it all together. Fired it up and instantly noticed a difference in air flow on first start idle speeds.
Note: im using @Photoman Alternator bracket as well as his smaller alt pulley with 150amp sequoia alt.
I test drove it to my buddies house and it got hot. But not as hot as usual though. Seems to have reduced my temps down by 6-8 idle and 2-4 F degrees at 80mph. Depends if AC is on and I'm driving it like I stole it.
Here's my temp stats on this thread. There are 2 posts with numbers for Day temp stats (90F) and Night temp stats (65F).
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- Thread starter
- #299
Drove her again on the freeway and this pulley works. I'll see what happens this weekend when I'm towing my half cut toyota pickup trailer.
Fan speed should not make a difference at 80mph. You already have 80mph of wind blowing on the radiator, so the fan won't be able to pull anymore air at those speeds. It could be a Coolant flow issue such as a clog or restriction or the radiator isn't big enough. If you have a bunch of accessories blocking the grill that might play a part.
