Here are some pics of the front and rear shackles with the new 4" lift installed. They are 2" over stock. Any recommendations for a better shackle angle?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Last edited:
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
amandap said:The posts describing hangar moving look like they have longer shackles also. Looks like the best option if I want to keep the long shackles. Would this configuration give the most flex?
I fail to see how this would any effect whatsoever. Please elaborate. In fact it contradicts what spring manufacturers say to do when using a spring with increased arch.peesalot said:put stock shackles on.
Pin_Head said:If you end up remounting your shackle hanger, first measure the spring eye to eye distance at full spring compression to make sure that you don't run out of room and hit the frame under full compression. This is especially true for springs that have a high arch, like the ones you have, because the eye to eye distance changes much more with flex than a flat spring. In other words, there is no fixed magic angle for all springs. You just have to measure how your spring reacts at full compression and droop.
dgangle said:take leafs out
wantatlc said:how do you know which ones to pull out? shortest spring first to longest?
what is the side effect of doing this to correct the angle? does something else suffer or become noticeable (ride, steering, tracking, etc)?
does this work for both front and rear, or should it only be done to one or the other?
Poser said:Are these 4" skyjacker springs?
Judging by the part numbers and the shackle angles, I would say YES. I have the exact same thing, and same problem.Poser said:Are these 4" skyjacker springs?
The difference that it does make is that the springs are incredibly stiff, as though you were riding on four pogo-sticks. They need an incredible amount of break-in time, by my experience. Mine are about 5 years old, with very little break-in time on them, because it was being built for most of that time.amandap said:yup. does it make a difference?
spdwaver1 said:Judging by the part numbers and the shackle angles, I would say YES. I have the exact same thing, and same problem.
amandap said:I guess I'm asking another question on how to measure full compression and droop. Once that's known, how close should the shackle come to the frame?
so if you disconnect the shock and the shackle what does it take to limit the flex???Pin_Head said:Droop is easy: Just jack it up until the tire is off the ground, but you may want to disconnect the shock and shackle if they are limiting the droop (and get longer ones). I found that just jacking up the other side did not fully compress the spring. I attached a come along cable to the frame above the axle, ran the cable under the axle and attached the other end to the frame and used that to compress the spring fully.
When the shackle angle gets to about 30 degrees with respect to the frame (90 is vertical), it doesn't take much more compression for the hanger to bottom out on the spring, which is something you want to avoid.
Once you know how much the eye to eye length changes, you can figure out what the right combination of shackle length and angle you need to get the highest range of motion out of your springs. This isn't as big of a deal with flat springs as the eye to eye distance shortens with both compression and droop.