shackle angle on new lift

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Here are some pics of the front and rear shackles with the new 4" lift installed. They are 2" over stock. Any recommendations for a better shackle angle?
Thanks!
 
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add weight
break them in
take leafs out
move shackle hanger inward

For me it wasn't until the last that it finally made a difference. Unfortunately this was the most difficult as well. I do not think Toyota ever intended for them to come off.

As shown in these pics shamelessly stolen from the web:
Dscn1481a.webp
Dscn1485a.webp
 
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on the rear I cut the hangers off with a cold chisel and cutting wheel and moved them forward.
Dscn1558.jpg

Take into account my springs are 10 years old.
 
Recommendations noted. Thanks!!! Already flexed it as far as possible to measure for brake line hoses...didn't let it sit very long tho...I'll try it again. Will they really "break in" and sink that much lower? The posts describing hangar moving look like they have longer shackles also. Looks like the best option if I want to keep the long shackles. Would this configuration give the most flex? So, the shorter stock shackles will give more angle without moving hangers...according to peesalot. I'm not able to visualize that for some reason. Seems like it would just move the spring eye up. John, are you saying that you know this works? Not doubting your word at all, just making sure I understand what you mean and how things will move before spending the $$. Funny, usually I can "see " things moving in relation to one another pretty good. This suspension thing is just new ground for me. Thanks for the help!
 
Are these 4" skyjacker springs?
 
amandap said:
The posts describing hangar moving look like they have longer shackles also. Looks like the best option if I want to keep the long shackles. Would this configuration give the most flex?

If you end up remounting your shackle hanger, first measure the spring eye to eye distance at full spring compression to make sure that you don't run out of room and hit the frame under full compression. This is especially true for springs that have a high arch, like the ones you have, because the eye to eye distance changes much more with flex than a flat spring. In other words, there is no fixed magic angle for all springs. You just have to measure how your spring reacts at full compression and droop.
 
peesalot said:
put stock shackles on.
I fail to see how this would any effect whatsoever. Please elaborate. In fact it contradicts what spring manufacturers say to do when using a spring with increased arch.
 
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Pin_Head said:
If you end up remounting your shackle hanger, first measure the spring eye to eye distance at full spring compression to make sure that you don't run out of room and hit the frame under full compression. This is especially true for springs that have a high arch, like the ones you have, because the eye to eye distance changes much more with flex than a flat spring. In other words, there is no fixed magic angle for all springs. You just have to measure how your spring reacts at full compression and droop.

If I'm understanding this correctly, I would stuff one wheel up high as possible and measure the spring? With the opposite shackle already fully "open" ie. 90* would it move as much as it should? I guess I'm asking another question on how to measure full compression and droop. Once that's known, how close should the shackle come to the frame?
 
dgangle said:
take leafs out

how do you know which ones to pull out? shortest spring first to longest?

what is the side effect of doing this to correct the angle? does soemthing else suffer or become noticable (ride, steering, tracking, etc)?

does this work for both front and rear, or should it only be done to one or the other?
 
wantatlc said:
how do you know which ones to pull out? shortest spring first to longest?

what is the side effect of doing this to correct the angle? does something else suffer or become noticeable (ride, steering, tracking, etc)?

does this work for both front and rear, or should it only be done to one or the other?

Should work for either the front or rear springs. I see no reason why one is different than the other.

Regarding your question about removing leafs, I was always told to start taking out the shortest leafs. Plus they're the easiest to get to without completely disassembling the spring pack. Some will remove others....I don't think there is a mathematical formula to determine which one(s) but opinions, experience and guesswork will help.

Side effects? In theory one side effect may be increased spring wrap but that happens when the springs are softer and isn't that what we're after anyway? I pulled 2/5 leaves out of my 4" SUA BTB's and it still rode like sheit. It wasn't until moving the hanger that it started to show some flex. I went and put one leaf back in. Of course Brian at BTB said my reasoning was all convoluted but if I listened to them, I am the only person in the universe experiencing a harsh ride from their springs. Imagine that.

remove leafs
longer shackles
relocate the hangers to get a non-vertical shackle angle

Trust me. It works.
 
Poser said:
Are these 4" skyjacker springs?
Judging by the part numbers and the shackle angles, I would say YES. I have the exact same thing, and same problem.
 
amandap said:
yup. does it make a difference?
The difference that it does make is that the springs are incredibly stiff, as though you were riding on four pogo-sticks. They need an incredible amount of break-in time, by my experience. Mine are about 5 years old, with very little break-in time on them, because it was being built for most of that time.

Do what they say, as far as breaking them in.
 
spdwaver1 said:
Judging by the part numbers and the shackle angles, I would say YES. I have the exact same thing, and same problem.

Do you have the extended shackles also? Does it seem a bit high in front? Just comparing notes...nice to not be alone with our problems...
 
amandap said:
I guess I'm asking another question on how to measure full compression and droop. Once that's known, how close should the shackle come to the frame?

Droop is easy: Just jack it up until the tire is off the ground, but you may want to disconnect the shock and shackle if they are limiting the droop (and get longer ones). I found that just jacking up the other side did not fully compress the spring. I attached a come along cable to the frame above the axle, ran the cable under the axle and attached the other end to the frame and used that to compress the spring fully.

When the shackle angle gets to about 30 degrees with respect to the frame (90 is vertical), it doesn't take much more compression for the hanger to bottom out on the spring, which is something you want to avoid.

Once you know how much the eye to eye length changes, you can figure out what the right combination of shackle length and angle you need to get the highest range of motion out of your springs. This isn't as big of a deal with flat springs as the eye to eye distance shortens with both compression and droop.
 
Pin_Head said:
Droop is easy: Just jack it up until the tire is off the ground, but you may want to disconnect the shock and shackle if they are limiting the droop (and get longer ones). I found that just jacking up the other side did not fully compress the spring. I attached a come along cable to the frame above the axle, ran the cable under the axle and attached the other end to the frame and used that to compress the spring fully.

When the shackle angle gets to about 30 degrees with respect to the frame (90 is vertical), it doesn't take much more compression for the hanger to bottom out on the spring, which is something you want to avoid.

Once you know how much the eye to eye length changes, you can figure out what the right combination of shackle length and angle you need to get the highest range of motion out of your springs. This isn't as big of a deal with flat springs as the eye to eye distance shortens with both compression and droop.
so if you disconnect the shock and the shackle what does it take to limit the flex??? :D
 

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