Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem! (1 Viewer)

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Power door lock motors R&R.

All my doors lock motors are weak. On a hot day the sunny side door lock(s) will not work by remote fob more than once or twice in a row. I notice the PS front door handle was loose. So I needed to get in that door panel to tighten the handle before winter, so water wouldn't leak in door panel. So I elected to go-head and R&R that door locks motor while tightening handle.

Once I had mine old motor out and knew for sure which motors (brass fitting on shafts) I needed. I then bought 5 motors off eBay for $20 to my door.

Separating the clam shell that holds the motors is a PITA. I've a tinny clever that was helpfully to pry around the seam. Basically we bust the seam. Heat helps but does not really release the sealed seams

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I pulled the motor apart to examine why it was failing. But really the brushes and commutator didn't look that bad. Just a little grimy. So my thinking is: As the motor ages resistance goes up from despots on brushes & commutator. That the wire running through the doors also build resistance over time, so do wires harness from 12V power and grounds. Then on hot days, resistance goes even higher. Then using motor creates more heat, which again increase resistance. Then these micro motor just can't get the volts needed to operate is my guess.
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Reading stores about how they replacement don't last and speaking offline with @abuck99 who hand done the job. Consensus was these Chinese replacement motors will only last a few years. So I wanted to make sure the clam shell case was not to difficult to open back up a next time if needed. So I found a glue (E6000) that was stated to hold up to 180 F. That is more heat then the inside of a door will get to just sitting in the sun in hottest place on earth (according to cargo container research I dig up)

I went ahead and installed the new motor and glued the clam shell back together.
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This was a year ago and so far all good. I have purchased the Camry motor in clam shell it's said they can be modified to work and believed too last longer. For now I'm just testing the one motor. My GF and I just need to be watchful on hot sunny days that all doors did lock when remote key fob used.

 
Regarding making sure the door locks on hot sunny days, I noticed on my LX, the alarm doesn't beep when a door doesn't lock when I arm it. Not sure on the LC's but I check the doors now if it doesn't "beep" when I arm it.
 
Regarding making sure the door locks on hot sunny days, I noticed on my LX, the alarm doesn't beep when a door doesn't lock when I arm it. Not sure on the LC's but I check the doors now if it doesn't "beep" when I arm it.
Thanks!
 
Coil spring spacer.

I added 10MM spacer to RH and 20MM LH. This should help bring rear height a little closer to stock, and take a little weight of globes of AHC. I'd go 30mm, but just had these 3 10MM spacer lying around the shop, so I put to use.
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Broken bolt drilled out.

I was pulling the rear LH stabilizer link bracket and busted the bolt. I was able to carefully drill out and clean threads without resizing.

Tick was to use center punch to make starting point for drill bit dead centered in broken bolt. Then start drilling with small bit, work up bit size a little at a time making sure to stay centered in bolt, until just starting to hit/cut threads. Then I come back with tap to clean out.
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Nice I was able to use stock size bolt. As usually I greased up all parts as rust preventive.
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Head lights.

Running and handle well. I had a few secondary safety issues to take care of, headlights being one.

Both headlights were in bad condition. Busted glass and hole being biggest issue. I pickup up a set of glass from local salvage yards as temps. Temps because they're condition wasn't that great. Eventually I pickup a set of 06LX plastic showed up on CL locally. They need resorting, but for now I just installed as is.

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Headlight washers.

Being Canada it has the headlight (HL) washers. Unfortunately the RH HL washer was busted off. I also found the valve didn't operate properly and leaked. I order the parts, with correct color HL match for washer head and install. All worked well, for awhile! Until a few months later system kept going through washer fluid way to fast "leak". As it turned out now the LH valve was leaking. So order another valve and all seem in good working order now.
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I'll post up pictures of new headlights and washer, someday when I detail and get some picture.
 
Cabin air filter looked due to be changed. Also pulled the fan to clean blower cage. Thanks @Ali FJ80 for the filter ;) you were right I did find a use for them!
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After vacuuming area best I could and cleaning blower, it's ready for assembly.
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AC, did not blow cold. History showed it had been charged a few times in as many years by PO. Which indicates a leak. I vacuumed the system and it held the vacuum overnight. So I replace the drier and charged it with 3 cans. It worked fine. But over the year it leaked again. I pressurized the A/C system with compressed air and hunted for leak by sound and soapy water in a spray bottle. But could not find. It must be a very minor leak, that may only be leaking while in use. So I recharged and its been blowing cold since. I did add some green dye this time. But so far, the one spot I find with what may be dye specs. Is just to little amount for me to say if I found leak or not. I see micro specks on compressor, with UV Glasses. I'm just not sure if I see green or just spec in metal that are shinny. So I'll just add a can of R134 each year or so and keep watching for dye.

Pressurized with compressed air, using my home made adapter. Then looked for leak, but could not find.
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Vacuumed held.
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Installed new Drier and added ~2 oz of Denso oil
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Vacuumed again.
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Than charged with 3 cans.
First can I injected into high side engine off. Next 2 cans into low side, engine running, high side closed. Note I only turned can upside down after can emptied. ;)
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I just call it very minor leak, and suspected it's only while running. It's a subjective term "decent". But I say a "decent" leak would drop pressure fast and stop blowing cold in hours if not minutes.

Good idea, I'll look in water discharge next time I run it. But if leak in evaporated, I'd think it would leak all the time, wouldn't it?
That is during pressure or vacuum holding testes!
 
I just call it very minor leak, and suspected it's only while running. It's a subjective term "decent". But I say a "decent" leak would drop pressure fast and stop blowing cold in hours if not minutes.

Good idea, I'll look in water discharge next time I run it. But if leak in evaporated, I'd think it would leak all the time, wouldn't it?
That is during pressure or vacuum holding testes!

In my experience vacuum is not a good indicator. Also, just think like this, if it leaks over 200 days and system holds less than 100psi when inop - it will take you to wait on pressure test for 2 days to see 1psi drop.

OTOH, in my experience if you have a leak which will require refill every season - it's big enough to "see" it. I mean that you going to see where it's leaking. Traces of oil, dirt, dye for sure. No need to test, you just need to be able to inspect all joints.

In my case when evaporator leaked - just put your UV light on this rubber outlet in engine bay and you will see. I don't know where rear evaporator is, so can't tell. But I would inspect all piping going there.

If you don't see any oil traces on condenser, compressor or anywhere in engine bay - got to be evaporator.
 
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Thanks @katit, good points and suggestions. It actually held both positive and negative pressure over a few days, but I hear you! The spot I'm focused on now is the compressor. Thinking is the front seal may be only leaking while running. It's just behind clutch, that I'm seeing possible specs of green with UV glasses on.

At this point I'll not likely check again until next spring or summer. By then, the dye should be more pronounced. I don't use air much, not even for defrost. I just like to run now and then to keep motor lubricated.
 
Head lights.

Running and handle well. I had a few secondary safety issues to take care of, headlights being one.

Both headlights were in bad condition. Busted glass and hole being biggest issue. I pickup up a set of glass from local salvage yards as temps. Temps because they're condition wasn't that great. Eventually I pickup a set of 06LX plastic showed up on CL locally. They need resorting, but for now I just installed as is.

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planning on fixing the crack underneath the left light? I have the same 2000 emerald as yours and have the crack under both the left and right and would love to get it fixed/replaced sometime.
 
If your asking about the plastic molding. I may!

Emerald is running good and I'd now drive it coast to coast with out concern. But she a little rough around the edges. It's best view from 20 or more feet...LOL. I could detail it, fix the dents, paint a little, etc. Take about 200 hours as slow as I am. It would be beautiful. You should see the windshield. It has 1/2 dozen big chip and a billion micro chip. But it is the factory install. I love it. Just can't see that well...LOL

If I do the headlight molding, I'll most likely buy new molding. I'd like to find used color matching. But any 20 year old will likely be brittle and finding in color match can be very difficult. I do keep my eye out for any green parts rig. I'll need all three pieces (LH, center and RH) to do it right.

It can be glue or fiber glassed, sanded and all repainted. I'd polish plastic headlights while molding off.
 
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OH!. Well not much to report.

I'm busy with Graybread and a few locals rigs. One local had his 06 towed here. But I'll not have space in shop to pull a non runner in or time to work on diagnosing for weeks. Should be interesting when I do.

"Emerald" did have one issue with no crank a few times. Nothing would happen, dash lights would not even dim. Immobilizer look fine. I am sure starter is fine, as I rebuilt and battery is great newer Lexus one. So tried moving shiftier to "N" from "P" and it starts every time. I looked at range switch on transmission while shifting, looks fine and secure.
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So i'm guessing contacts within it are dirty or pitted. I may be able to restore. But I ordered a new OEM shiftier range sensor (AKA switch assy, neutral start), to have on hand. But no hurry to restore old or install new, since it rarely doesn't start and start by moving to "N" when it doesn't, every time.
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Transmission flush (fully 12 qt) 6 steps!

Procedure:

Step 2) Next I disconnect transmission cooler return line after cooler before going back to transmission, and attach a clear hose to pipe that the top (return) hose connected to. To break hose free from pipe which pipe is easily crushed. I move clamp back down hose, then genitally twist (rock hose clockwise and and counter clock wise) hose on pipe with pair of channel locks.
What is the ID size of the clear hose/tubing you used?
 

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