Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #162
I never did replace the Transmission neutral switch (switch assy, neutral start)). The no crank, only happen a few times after wet and freeze snow storms. Could be ice jamb the shifter from fully resting in park. So I've and extra switch lying around, until such time as needed.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #163
Last yr I added spacers to the old factory coil springs. This year I installed new OEM Land Cruiser AHC coils with just one 10MM spacer in each side. Ride improved without any AHC sensor or torsion bar adjustment. Coils are settling in now. So I'll soon back and adjust those and maybe flush the fluid again. I'm may even kick up the spacers to 30mm next year. I've been doing a lot of those combination (new LC coil w/30mm spacers) lately. Something @PADDO taught me.
BTW: Anyone heard from PADDO lately, I'm concerned?
My new trick, for pressing down rear axle to R&R coils. Just need to make sure and stop expanding/dropping axle, before stretching drop down flexible brake line in 00-07 and AHC sensor arm.
The new coils are about 2" taller than old. In part I suspect from age compression. In part due to the Land Cruiser AHC coil being taller than Lexus.
DS ~1/2"^taller than PS v.
I've been adding 30mm spacers I get from @sleeoffroad to all jobs I've been doing for others latey. But had these 10mm OME, so just keep in for now. I do like to the 30mm better. With those I can take just a little more pressure off the globles at same height. I've actually done so many lately, as most everyone coil spring are tired (newest is 13 years old now). That my Local Toyota Dealership has started carry. They said I trip enough purchased this year to start inventory.
Yuk. Just noticed the plastic is so scratched. Need to so what I can do about that...
I also went with stock LC (harder) springs for my LX. Pressures slightly decreased but still on border high. May need to add some spacers just because more often I drive long distance loaded with stuff on a back..
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #165
Something I'd forgotten about that @suprarx7nut new video just reminded. FSM recommends, disconnect AHC temperature sending unit to read rear pressure. This will get a ture reading.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Cabin air filter looked due to be changed. Also pulled the fan to clean blower cage. Thanks @Ali FJ80 for the filteryou were right I did find a use for them!
View attachment 2107390
View attachment 2107391
After vacuuming area best I could and cleaning blower, it's ready for assembly.
View attachment 2107392
How did you remove the blower motor? I haven't looked in at it yet, but is it self explanatory?
Does the oil pan tube just pull out by hand? Got the same leak.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
One bolt holding the tube to the engine block, below the exhaust manifold. Remove that bolt and it pulls out, with some maneuvering around other items as you pull. I just used a pick to pop the old o-ring off. New one pushes on without much fuss.
Interesting. So the OEM LX (AHC) springs are a bit softer than the OEM LC AHC springs even though it is really the same vehicle?
Note the two different options: OEM non-AHC LC stiffer springs and OEM AHC LC springs depending on how much extra cargo you want to carry.
In order of increasing stiffness: OEM LX springs < OEM LC AHC springs < OEM LC non-AHC springs.
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #172
@JunkCrzr89 has it down!
I'll add:
Clean area very well first. You don't want any sand going into oil pan, through the port. It's all too easy to scrap engine with end of tube during install.
Bolt is accessible from above in engine bay Or through fender-well.
Quick and easy job. It's the cleaning that takes time and difficult
Softer many not be best word, which I/too used. But gets point across. It may be more about carrying more load on coils, saving energy for hydraulics to carry more when needed. @PADDO had first given me the idea of spacer and new coils.
I'd been buying coils, from Toyota Dealer. I'd not realized we had variation in PN's numbers. Which Toyota only has AHC in 06-07. Then I found a post with this info. Perhaps it was yours:
"You can get 48231-6A730, 48231-6A740, 48231-6A750 (H=455mm, pink), 48231-6A770 H=485mm, purple) or 48231-6A780 (H=500mm, brown). All will fit, but having slightly different lengths and/or rates. You can have 2 different ones with the longer/stiffer on the left, to help the TBs balancing the truck, or just leave the extra weight on the left to the TBs. Both methods are used.
I guess it comes down to what you can get hold of, as some might be out of stock, I've heard."
My first was installed a Toyota, The Unicorn IIRC! It wasn't until I started doing these R&R w/spacers in older LX's I notice 2" difference.
130K miles or less, getting hard to find. I just missed on a 06LC BGP w/108K for $28K OTD. I didn't put deposit down, before getting on road to inspect 50 miles away.. Someone else did. It lasted all of 1 hour, once Dealership opened monday morning. They said 20 calls first hour. I did find issue of concern in service history. So I wanted to see first. My mistake!
BTW: Look close at Odometer. Not Miles
We've some on mud now over 500K miles.
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #173
Air box air leaks at air filter seal.
My Air box had a busted clamp fastener anchor. Not uncommon, as I see this in about 1 out of 20 I look at. Just one busted fastener may allow some air leakage around the filter. Dust than may get into the intake air. I get an idea of how much dust may have entered, by inspecting the air pipe. If dusty, well that's not good sign. Emerald's pipe was okay, being fairly dust free.
Busted fastener:
I either replace box or find way to fasten down. I've use rope to tie to temporarily down before. The Air box can be restored. I found used box and just replaced it in Emerald.
My Air box had a busted clamp fastener anchor. Not uncommon, as I see this in about 1 out of 20 I look at. Just one busted fastener may allow some air leakage around the filter. Dust than may get into the intake air. I get an idea of how much dust may have entered, by inspecting the air pipe. If dusty, well that's not good sign. Emerald's pipe was okay, being fairly dust free.
Busted fastener:
I either replace box or find way to fasten down. I've use rope to tie to temporarily down before. The Air box can be restored. I found used box and just replaced it in Emerald.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #174
AHC sensor adjusting.
I went back last night and adjusted the AHC sensors. I found the front sensors had been dropped in the slides to the bottom (lowering vehicle stance) and turnbuckles at a 32.5mm spread (appearance was factory pre set). Rear adjuster looked centered in the slide adjuster (appearance was factory pre set).
I did not recheck pressure pre adjusting height, by sensor adjustment.
Using the easy measuring method, from fender to center of axle, I had:
Previously set T-bars side to side and frt Mpa. After coil & spacer install.
FL 19 5/16". FR 19 9/32". Frt 6.9 Mpa.
RL 19 7/8". RR 19 11/6". Rear 6.5 Mpa Temp ~104F.
Now after settling, pre adjusting sensors and T-bars. Measurements were:
FL 19 7/16". FR 19 3/8". Frt -.-- Mpa.
RL 20 3/16". RR 20 1/16". Rear -.-- Mpa. (Strange, possible I had recorded wrong. As No reason they go up, RIGHT!) I did only have 1/3 tank of fuel, but added ~50 lb weights over gas tank on rear seat.)
After adjusting sensors and torsion bars. Moving rear sensor adjusting nut up in slide ~5/32". Front adjusters up from bottom of slide ~4mm. Front turnbuckles noted at 32.5mm spread:
FL (0.0). FR (-0.0). Rear (-0.0) "Height control sensor reads"
FL 19 11/16". FR 19 11/16". Frt 6.9 Mpa.
RL 20 1/2". RR 20 1/2". Rear 6.5 Mpa. Temp 104F. Temp -22F (sensor disconnected) Rear at 6.3 Mpa.
I'll come back again and recheck after driving/settling. Depending on feel. I may shoot for dead on frt at 19 3/4 from and 6.8 or 6.7 mpa. Rear may then drop to Mpa temp sensor off ~6.2 or 6.1.
I went back last night and adjusted the AHC sensors. I found the front sensors had been dropped in the slides to the bottom (lowering vehicle stance) and turnbuckles at a 32.5mm spread (appearance was factory pre set). Rear adjuster looked centered in the slide adjuster (appearance was factory pre set).
I did not recheck pressure pre adjusting height, by sensor adjustment.
Using the easy measuring method, from fender to center of axle, I had:
Previously set T-bars side to side and frt Mpa. After coil & spacer install.
FL 19 5/16". FR 19 9/32". Frt 6.9 Mpa.
RL 19 7/8". RR 19 11/6". Rear 6.5 Mpa Temp ~104F.
Now after settling, pre adjusting sensors and T-bars. Measurements were:
FL 19 7/16". FR 19 3/8". Frt -.-- Mpa.
RL 20 3/16". RR 20 1/16". Rear -.-- Mpa. (Strange, possible I had recorded wrong. As No reason they go up, RIGHT!) I did only have 1/3 tank of fuel, but added ~50 lb weights over gas tank on rear seat.)
After adjusting sensors and torsion bars. Moving rear sensor adjusting nut up in slide ~5/32". Front adjusters up from bottom of slide ~4mm. Front turnbuckles noted at 32.5mm spread:
FL (0.0). FR (-0.0). Rear (-0.0) "Height control sensor reads"
FL 19 11/16". FR 19 11/16". Frt 6.9 Mpa.
RL 20 1/2". RR 20 1/2". Rear 6.5 Mpa. Temp 104F. Temp -22F (sensor disconnected) Rear at 6.3 Mpa.
I'll come back again and recheck after driving/settling. Depending on feel. I may shoot for dead on frt at 19 3/4 from and 6.8 or 6.7 mpa. Rear may then drop to Mpa temp sensor off ~6.2 or 6.1.
Last edited:
It's my understanding based on other posts here that the LX coils (48231-6A730, 48231-6A740) while shorter are heavier (i.e., larger diameter metal in the coil) and may be stiffer than the longer/lighter gauge LC coils to accommodate the slightly heavier weight of the LX. I went with 30mm spacers and the LC coils a few years ago (8231-6A770, 48231-6A780, the longer one being for the drivers side) and didn't get quite the drop in rear pressures I wanted. I have been meaning to swap out for fresh LX coils at some point. Is the consensus that pressures would actually go up with LX coils?
I replaced with fresh LX coils and 30mm spacers and my pressure was still high.
Went with King Springs to finally get my pressure in spec. New seals, new globes, full bleed, finally in spec with Kings.
Ride a little stiffer, but within spec now.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #177
Keep in mind coils w/ or WO/ may not drop pressure, even when height set to factory. If the AHC system is weak (i.e most common is, globes gas depletion). We then need to lower onto coils to bring pressure down in AHC rear. OR replace weak components.
I can say with certainty. The Land Cruiser non AHC have a "much" greater diameter. That is very easy to see with the eye.
I've been getting the 48231-6A780 SPRING, COIL, LH w/AHC Toyota H=500 06-07 Brown, 48231-6A770 SPRING, COIL, RH W/AHC Toyota H=485 06-07 Purple. As this is what's available. I'll measure diameter, next set I get. I've next set I do. And measure the factory LX.
I can say with certainty. The Land Cruiser non AHC have a "much" greater diameter. That is very easy to see with the eye.
I've been getting the 48231-6A780 SPRING, COIL, LH w/AHC Toyota H=500 06-07 Brown, 48231-6A770 SPRING, COIL, RH W/AHC Toyota H=485 06-07 Purple. As this is what's available. I'll measure diameter, next set I get. I've next set I do. And measure the factory LX.
I went with King Springs, because I read mixed reviews on Mud about installing LC ACH springs on an LX.
On my LX, I bleed all the junk with fresh fluid & it still didn't work well, even after leveling. Pressures were still way off.
I installed Pleiades globes, because two globes had broken diaphragms, and pressures still were out. So I installed new OE LX springs and 30mm spacers, but rear pressures were still too high.
King Springs got pressures in spec perfectly on all 4 corners, but ride is a little stiffer than before. Harsher over bumps. Maybe OE globes would have changed things, I don't know? I've seen OE globes for sale now priced close to what I paid for my Pleiades globes.
On my LX, I bleed all the junk with fresh fluid & it still didn't work well, even after leveling. Pressures were still way off.
I installed Pleiades globes, because two globes had broken diaphragms, and pressures still were out. So I installed new OE LX springs and 30mm spacers, but rear pressures were still too high.
King Springs got pressures in spec perfectly on all 4 corners, but ride is a little stiffer than before. Harsher over bumps. Maybe OE globes would have changed things, I don't know? I've seen OE globes for sale now priced close to what I paid for my Pleiades globes.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #179
I just worked on one with Kings & 30mm spacer, Slee installed those and Iron bumpers, winch, Roof rack, Drawer, rear locker and a few other toys. Like MPH compensator etc... Slee recommend AHC be pulled off.. Client wanted/wants to keep. But concern about loss of damping!
Interesting project. We installed new OEM globes at client request.
I then saw: In: FL 19 1/8 -0.4, FR 19 1/2 1.0, RL 20 3/16, RR 20 5/8 Rear -0.1. Temp ON/OFF F 7.6, R 5.5/5.2 Mpa.
The pressure was to low at 5.2Mpa with temp sensor disconnected. The height sensor was set, so rear was sitting low when frt leveled, using @PADDO rule of thumb, fender to center hub 19 3/4" frt, 20.5" rear. 3/4" rake.
I leveled with T-bar adjusting. I then adjusted the rear height sensor raising the rears to 20 7/8". This (after frt also) brough pressure up to ~5.6Mpa (temp-off 5.4Mpa) which is still a little low (stiff ride). In trying to keep rake of 3/4" Which ended up more, as front was maxed at 19 13/16" w/ 6.8Mpa. I could not raise rear more. As I ran out of torsion bar in frt, That is, in trying to keep pressure frt ro rear portionately near miniums. I'm recommending we remove the 30MM space from the kings, and use a heavy torsion bar. That should allow us to drop rear height to 20 1/2 and and pressure up to ~5.8-6 Mpa Temp-off. Which is above minimum of 5.6Mpa. The heavier T-bar will help support the heavier weight. The idea here is to run near at stock height, supporting the added weight, have the versatility of height control and not lose to much of the dampening of AHC. With beefed up coils and T-bar. Riding a little more on AHC. May help reduce the stiff.
BTW: This is on a heavy, I've worked on with AHC. Interesting
!
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #180
So I'm a little sad, we sold Emerald. But happy new owner is happy! 
Sorry @sammybones if this the one you wanted for your daughter's 1st car.I t was in your price range. I did not listed it for sale! It was clients who request one for his sister, within specific price range. Which he quickly put down a deposits. I really gave away much to cheap, for the work I did on it and this market. But I feel it will be loved.
Although Emerald was not actually a restore project. I did want to tidy up a few issue before delivery day!
Here some of what services were done last year or so, and than last few days to tidy up:
The MPG was never been great on this one, at 12MPG. I was working through one possible contribute at a time to low MPG. Had all but 3 things remaining to try.
1 MAF sensor. Although test okay. I've did just replace one on my 07 (test rig), which tested okay. I did see a slight change in fuel trims after words, bring nearer to 0 fuel trims. So it does seem they get old and weak, but test okay. So this was going to be next test.
2. Fuel injector (FI) off vehicle sent out to FIS for testing and rebuilding. Poor FI spray patterns can reduce MPG. Typically we see more issue in low mileage vehicle. Why, they sit and moisture builds in FI rusting needles, same for FPR. This rig although high mileage, which is indicator was driven regularly. It did sit for a year or so in a field, just before I bought.
3. O2 sensors and or tried CATs. Here weak sensor and or CATs giving dated to fuel system. They could be signaling a sightly lean condition, resulting in enriching of fuel mixture. Here again all test to spec, so no know issue. Just ones of those I'd like to have tried one day. But this would be last as most costly for me.
I never did replace transmission neutral SW. I found my girlfriend would not pull E-brake hard enough, then was also shifting very lightly into P. Seems as it would roll back in driveway until transmission "P" lock pin would stop it. Then old rubber bushing of engine and transmission mounts, would allow further pull on shift arm (or so was my thinking). So SW did not actually seem bad, and test as good! I would have to recreate her parking style, for it to happen (no crank) to me. Which was lightly pull on E-brake, shifting to P, let off brake and allow to roll until transmission lock pin stopped roll. This is bad habit most drivers have.
Most driver are not aware, that using transmission as a parking brake/lock, is damaging.
Here is how I learned to use E-brake, to stop vehicle, and too keep pressure off the transmission lock pin.
I'm sure there a few services I performed on Emerald, I never posted. But 95% is posted. I'm also sure more issue will come up. It is 22 years old vehicle with nearly 600,000 Kilometres after all. But all in all it is a nice rig, and better than most I inspect with 1/2 the mileage and newer. I'd not hesitate to go coast to coast in the Emerald.
Door lock motors:
Green Camry arm needs to be swapped with with white d Cruiser/LX arm. There are 2 different motors/clams shell, a left and a right orientation. FR & RR are one orientation. Where as FR & RL are anther. Not sure which rear hatch is. Emeralds not has 3 (FR, FL, RR) of 5 lock motors done. I think biggest chance of failure is the white arm that must be swapped over. It could pop out. Second some say these replacement China made motor only good for 2 years. But the FR door lock was posted about in this thread, is on year 3 now.
Lubing AHC height sensor balls is something new I've just started as a PM:
Looking close (shin) you can see the gray moly fortified HP grease. I use a needle injector that clips in grease gun, just like a grease zerk does. I may also use marine grease, as it's so hard to wash out. I'm thinking the AHC 6 points (ball joints) should be annually greased at same time as OF&L service. So we go from 6 lube points of propeller shaft and add in 6 more for AHC, for a total of 12 point in stock rigs.
Windshield replacement was delayed, until I found shop with rope/wire cutting tool for removal. Last time I had a install done, guy used knife/blade to remove glass. He nick paint so many times, it was sicking. Bad enough they must cut down ploy with a blade, nicking paint as they tend too. I did want more nicks and cuts from removal. These guys count on painting nicks "they see". Unfortunately they paint with Sika primer, which is actually a ploy adhesion promoter 1st an poor metal primer second. It doesn't hold up well. Result is, we get rust under molding.
New glass in, before I installed molding. Which I never let this installer remove or install molding. They also mess it up, or all I've used did. Was nice to finally see through windshield. It had a zillion chips.
Bye bye at 575,789Km. Turned into a nice ride, after being a field find I had to tow home. Not bad at all with some TLC!
Sorry @sammybones if this the one you wanted for your daughter's 1st car.I t was in your price range. I did not listed it for sale! It was clients who request one for his sister, within specific price range. Which he quickly put down a deposits. I really gave away much to cheap, for the work I did on it and this market. But I feel it will be loved.
Although Emerald was not actually a restore project. I did want to tidy up a few issue before delivery day!
Here some of what services were done last year or so, and than last few days to tidy up:
- Coolant flush 1/7/21 at 571Km
- Fuel pressure regulator (FPR). 3/2/21 572Km. It was not really bad. Before fuel pressure gauge showed 2.6PSI above upper limit of static 44PSI spec limit at 46.6PSI, running 43PSI. After install Static 44.88PSI and running 42PSI. Those very minor difference could just be my fuel pressure gauge variation. R&R to see if made any difference in MPG. It did not!
- AC charge 6/16/21 574Km Never did find any leak, even dye has never shown leak point. Although kind of though I saw some green dye at compressor, it was to faint to make the call. AC system, each time I vacuumed, held vacuum the not only the spec 15 minutes, but 24 hrs and even 48 hrs. So I just kept topping each summer. Which was also done by PO at Dealerships, many time before my time.
- 44K in gas tank. Which I now use 2 can in a full tank of gas. 8/6/21 574Km. A good yearly PM.
- OF&L 12/11/21 576Km
- Air filter 12/11/21 576Km
- Door look motors R&R FL & RR 12/11/21 576Km w/motor in clam shell. FR was done 8/27/18 557Km motor only to test gluing (held) clam shell & motor (still works).
- AHC sensor arm repair, lube & adjust bringing heights down nearer to factory spec. Found rear sensor ball of arm frozen, so R&R arm. I then lubed each sensor arm ball, with a moly fortified HP greased, using a needle injector. Fronts 19 5/16" Rears 20 1/4" Pressure temp sensor (T-22) disconnected: front 6.9Mpa, Rear 5.9Mpa. Temp sensor (T88F) plugged in: front 6.9Mpa, rear 6.5Mpa, Acc 10.5Mpa. Flushed 1 more qt to refresh. 12/24/21 576Km.
- Windshield R&R. Had factory glass, but it finally cracked about 6 months ago. Hate have to deal with installer nicking and scratching paint. I would do all molding myself. But I must still have glass removed and installed for me. This time I had to reschedule and then drive 40 miles, to get done. As was only shop that 1 of the installers, had a rope crank remover/cutter tool. Interestingly, while in shop during install. Installer sold his near new rope removing tool to me. I paid to much, really. But the new tool will get one step closer to doing my own removal and install. I can now at least pull glass and prep for install. Or once I learn to use tool I can.
- Headlight polish. I had R&R headlights a few times. Last time was with plastic lenses (newer style). Lenses were very cloudy. Once polish with 3M kit, look very nice. I could than see reflectors were in great shape. Sweet!
The MPG was never been great on this one, at 12MPG. I was working through one possible contribute at a time to low MPG. Had all but 3 things remaining to try.
1 MAF sensor. Although test okay. I've did just replace one on my 07 (test rig), which tested okay. I did see a slight change in fuel trims after words, bring nearer to 0 fuel trims. So it does seem they get old and weak, but test okay. So this was going to be next test.
2. Fuel injector (FI) off vehicle sent out to FIS for testing and rebuilding. Poor FI spray patterns can reduce MPG. Typically we see more issue in low mileage vehicle. Why, they sit and moisture builds in FI rusting needles, same for FPR. This rig although high mileage, which is indicator was driven regularly. It did sit for a year or so in a field, just before I bought.
3. O2 sensors and or tried CATs. Here weak sensor and or CATs giving dated to fuel system. They could be signaling a sightly lean condition, resulting in enriching of fuel mixture. Here again all test to spec, so no know issue. Just ones of those I'd like to have tried one day. But this would be last as most costly for me.
I never did replace transmission neutral SW. I found my girlfriend would not pull E-brake hard enough, then was also shifting very lightly into P. Seems as it would roll back in driveway until transmission "P" lock pin would stop it. Then old rubber bushing of engine and transmission mounts, would allow further pull on shift arm (or so was my thinking). So SW did not actually seem bad, and test as good! I would have to recreate her parking style, for it to happen (no crank) to me. Which was lightly pull on E-brake, shifting to P, let off brake and allow to roll until transmission lock pin stopped roll. This is bad habit most drivers have.
Most driver are not aware, that using transmission as a parking brake/lock, is damaging.
Here is how I learned to use E-brake, to stop vehicle, and too keep pressure off the transmission lock pin.
- Stop with foot pressure on brake pedal.. keep pressure on pedal.
- Pull e-brake hard.
- Shift to "N"
- Release foot brake pedal.
- Let vehicle roll to a stop, catching E-brake shoe to do so. This takes just a few inches of roll! If vehicle seem to want to keep rolling, pull harder on E-brake handle until it stops rolling.
- Shift to "P".
I'm sure there a few services I performed on Emerald, I never posted. But 95% is posted. I'm also sure more issue will come up. It is 22 years old vehicle with nearly 600,000 Kilometres after all. But all in all it is a nice rig, and better than most I inspect with 1/2 the mileage and newer. I'd not hesitate to go coast to coast in the Emerald.
Door lock motors:
Green Camry arm needs to be swapped with with white d Cruiser/LX arm. There are 2 different motors/clams shell, a left and a right orientation. FR & RR are one orientation. Where as FR & RL are anther. Not sure which rear hatch is. Emeralds not has 3 (FR, FL, RR) of 5 lock motors done. I think biggest chance of failure is the white arm that must be swapped over. It could pop out. Second some say these replacement China made motor only good for 2 years. But the FR door lock was posted about in this thread, is on year 3 now.
Lubing AHC height sensor balls is something new I've just started as a PM:
Looking close (shin) you can see the gray moly fortified HP grease. I use a needle injector that clips in grease gun, just like a grease zerk does. I may also use marine grease, as it's so hard to wash out. I'm thinking the AHC 6 points (ball joints) should be annually greased at same time as OF&L service. So we go from 6 lube points of propeller shaft and add in 6 more for AHC, for a total of 12 point in stock rigs.
Windshield replacement was delayed, until I found shop with rope/wire cutting tool for removal. Last time I had a install done, guy used knife/blade to remove glass. He nick paint so many times, it was sicking. Bad enough they must cut down ploy with a blade, nicking paint as they tend too. I did want more nicks and cuts from removal. These guys count on painting nicks "they see". Unfortunately they paint with Sika primer, which is actually a ploy adhesion promoter 1st an poor metal primer second. It doesn't hold up well. Result is, we get rust under molding.
New glass in, before I installed molding. Which I never let this installer remove or install molding. They also mess it up, or all I've used did. Was nice to finally see through windshield. It had a zillion chips.
Bye bye at 575,789Km. Turned into a nice ride, after being a field find I had to tow home. Not bad at all with some TLC!
Last edited:
