Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
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- Thread starter
- #182
We decided to go ahead and replace return and suction hoses at reservoir now. They're not leaking/weeping, but would have sooner or later. This should buy ~15 years or so
Old hoses were hardening but not leaking yet!
Suction hose.
I used old suction hose to detrim position of clamp on new hose(s).
Return line to reservoir replaced.
Old hoses were hardening but not leaking yet!
Suction hose.
I used old suction hose to detrim position of clamp on new hose(s).
Return line to reservoir replaced.
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- Thread starter
- #184
Filled reservoir with one qt of M1 ATF, after cleaning inside it getting the screen at bottom inside as good as I could. Having had all steering components off, I'd lost most all fluid, so I've no need to flush.
After letting fluid sit in reservoir to make its way down stream, I turned steering wheel back forth. This worked fluid in and most the air. I'll do finnal bleeding once wheels on ground.
I've provide a links for flushing here:
Steering Flush & Cleaning
After letting fluid sit in reservoir to make its way down stream, I turned steering wheel back forth. This worked fluid in and most the air. I'll do finnal bleeding once wheels on ground.
I've provide a links for flushing here:
Steering Flush & Cleaning
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Great work buddy.There common I have noticed the hoses from power steering reservoir to sweat and weep a bit.
I want to do MAF Sensor cleaning just cant find the product to do it with here CRC is there anything else I can use ?.
With the radiator cap is it good to get a new one once miles get up and how do you know it's no good ?.
I want to do MAF Sensor cleaning just cant find the product to do it with here CRC is there anything else I can use ?.
With the radiator cap is it good to get a new one once miles get up and how do you know it's no good ?.
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- Thread starter
- #186
I find the return and suction hoses weeping very often. With the 03-07 series 100 here in USA we can purchase just these hoses from Toyota. With the 98-02 suction hose sold by Toyota. But for 98-02 return hose, we use a transmission cooler hose from parts store (~$10) and two fuel hose clamps. See posts starting #26 Coolant leak at water inlet and.. On that 98-02 Land Cruiser, we started by just reclamping (sometimes all that's needed) to see if any other leaks after cleaning. Then later we replaced return line.
MAF cleaner is a solvent that is safe on plastic, that is very "clean". Clean meaning it dries without leaving a trace. I'm sure you can find something in parts store or online.
Radiator cap can be tested. But it hard to find a tester, so we just replace. This is a new radiator, so I replaced.
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- Thread starter
- #187
Front differential bushing replacement.
Back to work....
Replacing front Drive shafts, front differential bushing and reconditioned #3 crossmember giveing the new car reliability, feel and sound (or lack of clunk). It's not that parts are no longer serviable we're just getting ahead of the curve, and it is so SWEET when done all together.
Both front drive shafts are being replaced to get and incremental improvement. These along with new hub flanges and cone washers will knock out most if not all D-N-R clunk that it may have or would develop in the near term. It also makes for a more reliable rig. I say reliable because; as the axle & hub flange teeth become worn it feeds on itself, accelerating the wear of teeth. Hub flange failure is a little-to-common especially among the under maintained. By replacing now and doing proper wheel bearing service every 30K miles from now on, will keep wear to a minimum increasing reliability.
With both front drive shafts out, half the work of pulling front differential is done. So pulling and replacing front differential bushing makes sense. This also gives and incremental benefit in reducing D-N-R clunk.
Pulling #3 crossmember is done to make pulling differential easier, but can be done without pulling. I've learned we have and issue with the #3 crossmember securing points rusting out. These crossmember may also be loosening, adding to movement of front differential and clunk. So I recondition this as well.
Front differential bushing is much easier and less risk of damaging case when done on the bench.
A little penetrating oil really helps out.
Really didn't look to bad, just some mild surface cracking. What do you think?
Note: I place match marks on propeller shaft before removing.
Back to work....
Replacing front Drive shafts, front differential bushing and reconditioned #3 crossmember giveing the new car reliability, feel and sound (or lack of clunk). It's not that parts are no longer serviable we're just getting ahead of the curve, and it is so SWEET when done all together.
Both front drive shafts are being replaced to get and incremental improvement. These along with new hub flanges and cone washers will knock out most if not all D-N-R clunk that it may have or would develop in the near term. It also makes for a more reliable rig. I say reliable because; as the axle & hub flange teeth become worn it feeds on itself, accelerating the wear of teeth. Hub flange failure is a little-to-common especially among the under maintained. By replacing now and doing proper wheel bearing service every 30K miles from now on, will keep wear to a minimum increasing reliability.
With both front drive shafts out, half the work of pulling front differential is done. So pulling and replacing front differential bushing makes sense. This also gives and incremental benefit in reducing D-N-R clunk.
Pulling #3 crossmember is done to make pulling differential easier, but can be done without pulling. I've learned we have and issue with the #3 crossmember securing points rusting out. These crossmember may also be loosening, adding to movement of front differential and clunk. So I recondition this as well.
Front differential bushing is much easier and less risk of damaging case when done on the bench.
A little penetrating oil really helps out.
Really didn't look to bad, just some mild surface cracking. What do you think?
Note: I place match marks on propeller shaft before removing.
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- Thread starter
- #188
Clean up and grease before pressing in new.
For proper orientation, I like to mark center point of diff with arrow making alignment with single dot on rubber bushing easy.
I take my time getting started, keeping square as I can.
Then once started, I just crank it on down.
My grease squeezing out, signals I've seated.
For proper orientation, I like to mark center point of diff with arrow making alignment with single dot on rubber bushing easy.
- Thread starter
- #190
#3 crossmembers bolt, bolt guide and contact points are rusting. I'm find rust here, on every rig I've looked. Even on this very clean rust free Southern 07.
I cleaned out bolt guides with a plumbers carbon brush, works good.
I cleaned out bolt guides with a plumbers carbon brush, works good.
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- Thread starter
- #191
Before painting, I clean with POR-15 cleaner and then POR15 metal prep.
I even painted in side bolt guid holes with this cool little brush.
This was done while engine out which didn't make easier, but I did hit a few spot in the bay while working in area. One was under steering rack mount RH. The other above engine mount LH. Also hit the front of engine mounts.
I scuffed all painted and bare metal before painting.
I even painted in side bolt guid holes with this cool little brush.
This was done while engine out which didn't make easier, but I did hit a few spot in the bay while working in area. One was under steering rack mount RH. The other above engine mount LH. Also hit the front of engine mounts.
I scuffed all painted and bare metal before painting.
- Thread starter
- #192
Two of the bolt (on RH) I didn't like the looks of after cleaning with wire brush,
So I replaced with new OEM bolts.
During assembly I pack bolt guids with grease.
I was careful to degrease mating surfaces to ensure solid clamp force of #3 CM to frame.
I over torque by ~9Ft-lbf to 59ft-lbf.
So I replaced with new OEM bolts.
During assembly I pack bolt guids with grease.
I was careful to degrease mating surfaces to ensure solid clamp force of #3 CM to frame.
I over torque by ~9Ft-lbf to 59ft-lbf.
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- Thread starter
- #194
Now for the new OEM front Drive Shafts, very worthwhile.
Sweet right!
New FDS comes with the inner snap ring. FSM states to install with snap ring "open end down". I grease the snap ring to hold in place and make install easier.
With the seal's lip geased, it's ready for install. I set large yellow boot clamp crimps at top, to give sight orientation of snap ring open end down (at bottom). Then carefully guid past the seal, twist slightly back and forth to mesh teeth of axle to diff.
Sweet right!
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YardPig
SILVER Star
I enjoy your write-ups with detailed pictures and respect your knowledge of the 100 but can I ask why you grease every bolt you find? You should never grease threads. If your concerned of corrosion you need to use an anti-seize compound.
- Thread starter
- #196
Knuckle is next. You did see it installed in above video of FDS install, but first it did need reconditioning.
IMO last time it was grease was in Japan.
Found this abrasive wheel, some emery cloth and wire brush is best way to do rough clean up.
Next was solvent baths, then dry with HP air, then pack with grease before rust appears.
I use a flat piece of wood to pound in this harty seal. Then make sure it's seated with my brass dowel hitting only on inner ring.
I first cover the seal with the plastic bag it came in, to keep debris out of bearing as I seat it. Then use a piece of wood that covers (overlap) outer metal area of seal (without interference from knuckle) to pound in seal. I come back and tap in to make sure seated. Do not over pound or tap on, or else metal of seal will get deformed. It's important we get the metal of seal seated very square. The shelve in knuckle, seal seats in/to, does this for us.
Just a few taps to make sure I sealed.
IMO last time it was grease was in Japan.
Found this abrasive wheel, some emery cloth and wire brush is best way to do rough clean up.
Next was solvent baths, then dry with HP air, then pack with grease before rust appears.
I use a flat piece of wood to pound in this harty seal. Then make sure it's seated with my brass dowel hitting only on inner ring.
Just a few taps to make sure I sealed.
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- Thread starter
- #198
Yeah, I do get carried away with grease, and I do you use anti-seize more so when I've different metals coming into contact with each other.
Why do you say "should never grease threads"? Are you concerned with bolts falling out, over torquing or what!
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YardPig
SILVER Star
Grease is for things that need to move...
YardPig
SILVER Star
I guess you like to take things apart constantly so grease would be ok. I like to assemble things for the long term so I rely on antiseize compounds to stand up to the long term.
