Coolant leak at water inlet and.. (1 Viewer)

[nissanh]

Thanks for the informative videos.

Don't you think the repairs in this truck at 169K is little too much? Specially the rear diff oil leak? Mine at 225K and no oil leaks so far.

The inner diameter and the outer diameter of the bearings inside the idler pulley and the tensioner are all same but the thickness. I found the replacement bearing for the tensioner but no one carries the 14 mm thick bearing to replace the idler.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the informative videos.

Don't you think the repairs in this truck at 169K is little too much? Specially the rear diff oil leak? Mine at 225K and no oil leaks so far.

The inner diameter and the outer diameter of the bearings inside the idler pulley and the tensioner are all same but the thickness. I found the replacement bearing for the tensioner but no one carries the 14 mm thick bearing to replace the idler.

I had offer to do a full post purchase evaluation to determine the viability of this rig, but decision was to just fix known issues. No, nothing I've found mechanically as of yet, says part it out. The engines' running a little rough which is just probably in need of major tune.

Apparently the rear differential had issue with breather and water in case. It was flushed. Some AT-205 re-seal to see if leak stops. Then A re-flush and possibly some BGK additive and she may be good for 200K miles more, only time will tell. But rear ends can be rebuilt or had used for good prices. First will be to stop leaks! then will go forward.

Drive belt Idler bearings in general:

I found the Hyden pulley from Rock Auto works ok, don't know for how long as I've only used for 1/2 year now. They picture an OEM bearing, it's not. On inspect they use the same bearing we find that is to narrower, with a spacer to make up difference.

I did find our Idler bearings some years ago. The manufacture distribution Rep could get me them. It's just I had to buy bulk and pay shipping from Japan IIRC. The pulley is so easy to swap out and give plenty of earlier warning, I just buy the aftermarkets.

 

[nissanh]

I also bought the Hayden for the idler and even before I went to install it I find the idler had side-to-side play. That's when I decided to buy just the bearing and to my surprice no one had that same exact beaing. The OEM is about $40 so that is my next buy.

For the pitted water inlet/outlet, I applied a thin film of Toyota FIPG and then installed OEM new coolant hoses. Also used the OEM radiator hose clips. Did the T-Belt job a year ago and so far no leaks. I find an exhaust manifold leak on driver side. It is been like that for past year. Once the engine heats up, the sound disappears. How easy to get the gasket/manifold replaced?

Thank you!

 

[2001LC]

I also bought the Hayden for the idler and even before I went to install it I find the idler had side-to-side play. That's when I decided to buy just the bearing and to my surprice no one had that same exact beaing. The OEM is about $40 so that is my next buy.

For the pitted water inlet/outlet, I applied a thin film of Toyota FIPG and then installed OEM new coolant hoses. Also used the OEM radiator hose clips. Did the T-Belt job a year ago and so far no leaks. I find an exhaust manifold leak on driver side. It is been like that for past year. Once the engine heats up, the sound disappears. How easy to get the gasket/manifold replaced?

Thank you!

I've not notice any side to side plat in the Hydens, I'll recheck. If you get OEM idler for $40 that is a great price, please tell me where?

I'd hate to be the one to remove those hoses with FIPG on them. Why not just replace the inlet cover. Since you said hoses I assume you also had pitting on water by-pass joint front (upper hose connect to).

The exhaust leak of manifold is well document as crack at wield, gasket alone will not help. If stop when hot I'd not be overly concerned with it.

 

[2001LC]

So replaced the water inlet cover & lower radiator hose with OEM.

I covered drive belt and tensioner pulley/bearing with a rag then plastic, to kept coolant off. I also drain radiator first thing.

Next heater Tee's replacment and coolant flush are a must be done and soon!

 

[2001LC]

As mentioned early I clamp power steering reservoir hoses that appeared to be leaky. This sometimes stop leaky hoses for years. It's import to work top down stopping leaks. Often time a shop will say you've a leaky rack when that's not the case, it's just run down from above.

Sometimes these hoses are shot and clamping is a band-aid to slow leaks. This is the case here, these hoses are shot, the return line being the worst. Toyota requires us to buy the whole HP & return line set-up at ~$500 to replace the return line, in 98-02. They do sell return line separately for the 03-07. Note: The suction line from reservoir is sold separate by Toyota.

The work around for the return line save hundreds of $$, is to go after market with a 3/8" ID Transmission cooler hose and fuel line clamp and along with a qt of M1 ATF.


After cleaning really well I watch closely hoses and areas of concern. I saw lower end of return hose is weeping between layers, it's shot and must be replaced.

The stainless steel fuel line clamps set next to flange at end of flange on male line, work well to give a good seal on new hose.
Lower end of return line:

Larger hose "suction hose" will also need replacing at some point in near future.

 

[adrenalinefjz80]

Awesome video of the new front drive shaft, cone washers, and hub flanges. If you could set your YouTube videos to public that way we have easy access vs pulling up your mud individual threads I bet everyone would be estatic!

 

[2001LC]

Video's are very new thing I'm doing. I'll work on youtube "setting" as time passes and I learn how that stuff works.

 

[Rolocado]

Does this teeny seepage seem to be a problem at all? I'm on all original water hoses at 205k but third water pump

 

[2001LC]

No leak is acceptable to me, on any system of the 100 series.

It's a good bet, electrolysis is taking place and eating your water inlet and water by-pass joint.

In Redbaron you'll see I did replace the water by-pass joint (WBJ) due to small leak on right side gasket. In it's VVti engine, it was necessary to pull the intake manifold to remove the WBJ (In non VVti it may be possible to do without pulling intake off). I found electrolysis at leak, and at other location also that required me to replace WBJ and upper radiator hose. It was and extra expense but worth it. I learned a lot because of that leak.

FWIW:

I'm still on my factory installed water pump in The King 01 w/169K miles. I flush every 30K or 2yr which every comes first with 100% Toyota Red LL. As is recommend by Toyota in 98-02. I'm not sure about 03 but 04-07 use pink SLL with different schedule that is to long in duration IMHO.

Flushing coolant and making sure we've no leaks is very important in the 2UZ-fe.

I'm not saying your tiny leak will kill your engine, but coolant leak is the number one killer of our 2UZ-fe engines.

Coolant system is a priority for me.

 

[Rolocado]

No leak is acceptable to me, on any system of the 100 series.

It's a good bet, electrolysis is taking place and eating your water inlet and water by-pass joint.

In Redbaron you'll see I did replace the water by-pass joint (WBJ) due to small leak on right side gasket. In it's VVti engine, it was necessary to pull the intake manifold to remove the WBJ (In non VVti it may be possible to do without pulling intake off). I found electrolysis at leak, and at other location also that required me to replace WBJ and upper radiator hose. It was and extra expense but worth it. I learned a lot because of that leak.

FWIW:

I'm still on my factory installed water pump in The King 01 w/169K miles. I flush every 30K or 2yr which every comes first with 100% Toyota Red LL. As is recommend by Toyota in 98-02. I'm not sure about 03 but 04-07 use pink SLL with different schedule that is to long IMHO. Flushing coolant and making sure we've no leaks is very important in the 2UZ-fe.

I'm not saying your tiny leak will kill your engine, but coolant leak is the number one killer of our 2UZ-fe engines.

Coolant system is also a priority for me.

Meaning the tiny o ring in there is falling apart? I constantly check my coolant level also, but am thinking of doing all water hoses to keep them fresh. 205k has served me well

 

[2001LC]

Drive belt tensioner arrived, so I installed yesterday. The front of engine is sounding much sweeter now. Caution these Hyden idler pulleys are untested as to how long they will last!

You can hear a possible exhaust leak right at start up.

 

[2001LC]

Meaning the tiny o ring in there is falling apart? I constantly check my coolant level also, but am thinking of doing all water hoses to keep them fresh. 205k has served me well

It may be the large O-ring wasn't changed or was installed improperly last time it was off. It may also mean you have pitting in the metal, which is very likely if that's been leaking a year or so.

I only recommend replacing coolant hose that are swollen or pitted otherwise I leave them alone.

 

[bucfl]

Need to replace my PS hoses as well. Been leaking for a while now.

 

[sean2202]

Once again great writeup by @2001LC. Nice to see someone putting videos on YouTube that REALLY knows the 100 series.

 

[2001LC]

Once again great writeup by @2001LC. Nice to see someone putting videos on YouTube that REALLY knows the 100 series.

Thanks for saying so @sean2202, I'm learning more each day on these 100 series. The videos are new for me. My camera shuts off after 7 minutes. It's a pain and takes time to set the stage, to get done some stuff in that time frame, so don't think I'm really that fast as I'm not.

 

[nissanh]

Update with the Hayden bearing Idler pulley. After 5000 miles, I feel the bearing has side to side (bottom towards the radiator and top towards the engine) play about 1-2 mm. OEM is about $30-35 on ebay.

 

[2001LC]

Update with the Hayden bearing Idler pulley. After 5000 miles, I feel the bearing has side to side (bottom towards the radiator and top towards the engine) play about 1-2 mm. OEM is about $30-35 on ebay.

I may stop using Hydens based on your observation. But true OEM for $35 sound to good. Have you any picture of bearing you can share?

I put a Hyden idler pulley on The King just as a test, but only have a few thousand miles on it. I recently heard some noise and ended up replacing fan clutch. But in looking at closely, I do find the Hyden bearing to be noisier than OEM of higher mileage.

 

[FLJ23]

1. Oil drain plug leak. Needs new washer.
2. ******Propeller shafts need lubing with every oil change at minimum.
3. Rear differential seal leaking. R&R breather and add some AT-205 reseal to rear differential may take care of this leak.
4. Weep hole at time belt to dirty with gunk and coolant to get good reading. It's now clean and needs watching.

Do you have a video of how to lube the propeller shaft?

 

[Rolocado]

1. Oil drain plug leak. Needs new washer.
2. ******Propeller shafts need lubing with every oil change at minimum.
3. Rear differential seal leaking. R&R breather and add some AT-205 reseal to rear differential may take care of this leak.
4. Weep hole at time belt to dirty with gunk and coolant to get good reading. It's now clean and needs watching.

Do you have a video of how to lube the propeller shaft?

There are Zirks at each U-Joint and one at each slip yoke. Drive forward or back to get the zirks pointing down and put a grease gun on and pump until you can hear grease crackling out the joint.