- Thread starter
- #21
Good point. Thanks
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I live in illinois and i'd run away from that. there are tons of less rusted 100s out there for that price. it's what you can't see.I found my dream 100 series for what seemed to be a reasonable price (6.6K prob negotiable down to $5800) right near me (New Jersey)
Body looks great. Good color. Ran decently. But... BUT when the snow cleared and I got underneath I was horrified by the rust I saw.
please help, I’m no expert, so is this a run-don’t-walk situation or does the rust not matter / can be remediate at the above price.
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spot on! road trip!Justify rusty trucks all you want. It's not just the structural stuff. It's not just the appearance of bubbles and holes in the body. Working on rusty trucks just plain sucks. Bolts strip. Bolts break. A 10 min. job turns into a *%#&ing project - extracting bolts, rethreading... Nope. Not worth it. You Rustbelt guys are not held captive. Get the &$*@ out of there and buy a S.E./S.W. truck. There are PLENTY. As mentioned, these aren't rare classics. The number of trucks that'll die in the N.E. because an enthusiast relocated one is statistically insignificant. Time for a road trip!
Yeah my new mexico mostly land cruiser literally only has that spot rusted and thats it.Thats not bad. That spot is common for even cruisers in non-salt areas. Crud builds up and has nowhere to go in that exact spot, and makes a hole.
that's a rusted hole where i come from.Yeah my new mexico mostly land cruiser literally only has that spot rusted and thats it.
The thing though this can be a problem hiding with cars from even stereotypical rust free locations.that's a rusted hole where i come from.
i looked at a used 2nd gen tacoma a while back and it looked rad... until I popped the fuse panel and saw the crossmember under the dash... RUST and the seat track mechanism.... they brought a flood truck to Arizona.... i have raw steel that's been sitting in my backyard for 5 years that looked better than this thing.The thing though this can be a problem hiding with cars from even stereotypical rust free locations.
Funny thing about Tacoma’s are they have already started a frame rust recall/remedy for 16/17si looked at a used 2nd gen tacoma a while back and it looked rad... until I popped the fuse panel and saw the crossmember under the dash... RUST and the seat track mechanism.... they brought a flood truck to Arizona.... i have raw steel that's been sitting in my backyard for 5 years that looked better than this thing.
i looked at a used 2nd gen tacoma a while back
Glad I dumped the 17 Off-Road, then. Never liked it anyway, felt tinny next to the LC.Funny thing about Tacoma’s are they have already started a frame rust recall/remedy for 16/17s
I have a rusty midwest '99 LC. While my frame was relatively solid and considered that the main factor, all the other thin metal rusting parts have been the bigger issue for me. I've now replaced all the brake hard lines (one busted), the rear a/c line (busted multiple places), windshield frame leaked a lot, half-assed patched up my rockers, the fuel hard lines (busted twice), and now the gas tank that started leaking. I still love the thing, and hopefully thats the last of the crucial stuff, but thats been a whole lot of hassle and work to fix.
This LC you're looking at might be weird in that those are the only rusty spots, which might not be too hard to fix with a shadetree welder, but the rest of the stuff would worry me.
I bought a rusty midwest 99 LC for 2500. It looked bad underneath at a glance but upon closer inspection frame was OK but plates, especially gas tank plate and brackets were really bad. I went through it with a grinder and rust removal wheel and used por15 on everything I could touch + fluid film in frame. The main reason I wanted it is it had 165K miles and was a well maintained plus I have lots of experience with the 4.7 working on my tundra. I've focused on mechanical maintance and its become a reliable daily for me. I've driven it 15k miles since last September so it was worth it. Definitely not a looker though. The biggest hassle are rusty bolts. Ive got to do my stabilizer bar bushings and the bolt don't even look like bolts anymore.I vote option #3. Buy for around $3k and drive it into the ground. Treat the rust you can to slow it down and in 15-20 years buy a replacement.
Rusty Cruisers make great trail vehicles and daily drivers in the salt. If you are looking for an instagram model cruiser do not buy a rusty one.
I'm facing brake hard line and hard fuel line replacement. How much of a pain in the ass was it? Did you replace fuel with new metal hard line or hose?
Do you by chance have the part numbers still to the OEM fuel hardlines? I think I have found them, but if you could confirm that would be awesome.It's unpleasant. Changing all brake hardlines is do-able without removing much stuff. Accessing the junction over the rear diff is a pain.
I had temp patched some fuel hardlines with rubber and double hose-clamped, but would not recommend that. I replaced that with some hardline and compression fittings for something better. Three fuel lines go up and over the tank, which are near impossible to reach. When the tank gave out and started leaking and had to be dropped and replaced anyways, I went ahead and put in all new OEM fuel hardlines.
@jroseen ^^this is what ive chosen to do. You're in NJ, im sure you can find some competitive pricing for rust repairI vote option #3. Buy for around $3k and drive it into the ground. Treat the rust you can to slow it down and in 15-20 years buy a replacement.
Rusty Cruisers make great trail vehicles and daily drivers in the salt. If you are looking for an instagram model cruiser do not buy a rusty one.