Same as OEM. Remove pin and block, push in the axles to remove C clips and axles will pull out.
Replacing Differential Housing Gaskets
- Thread starter rstoddard
- Start date
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Same as OEM. Remove pin and block, push in the axles to remove C clips and axles will pull out.
- Thread starter
- #22
It looks like you remove the rounded hex screw below the tubing, and then punch out the pin and remove the block. Sound right?
Note the crimped copper tube where it come up from the locker. That can’t be good! I’ve always thought there was something funky with this locker install.
You can see the installation instructions in this set of documentation.
A telescoping magnet is great for sliding that pin out.
- Thread starter
- #25
I’m not sure what you mean.
I pulled the rounded hex screw, and it’s only about a half inch long. Not long enough to hold the center pin. So what gives? What do you need to do to get the Center Pin out?
- Thread starter
- #26
And there it is…. A hollow pin you dig out with a drill bit. The hex screw acts to hold/retain the pin. Impossible to see without a small mirror.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Please whatever you do - don’t skip the cork gasket. Rtv is a lazy way to fix the leak and is a pain in the ass to service when you need to do any work with removing axles.
Removing the cover results in hammering in chisels and beating up the mating surfaces. It’s a joke, please do it correctly and torque the cover evenly with torque wrench. It will not leak if done correctly.
Removing the cover results in hammering in chisels and beating up the mating surfaces. It’s a joke, please do it correctly and torque the cover evenly with torque wrench. It will not leak if done correctly.
- Thread starter
- #28
Do you use RTV on the Cork gasket?
- Thread starter
- #29
BLOWN AWAY BY AXLE SHAFTS:
I pulled the axle shafts, and was shocked by the discoloration near the splines and the bearings. I’m assuming it’s from overheating at one time. The splines look decent and the bearing surfaces are smooth. The Diff/Locker looks great. I’m guessing this happened before I got it. Should I be concerned? What is the availability /affordability of replacement shafts?
I pulled the axle shafts, and was shocked by the discoloration near the splines and the bearings. I’m assuming it’s from overheating at one time. The splines look decent and the bearing surfaces are smooth. The Diff/Locker looks great. I’m guessing this happened before I got it. Should I be concerned? What is the availability /affordability of replacement shafts?
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
No, torque in x pattern gradually increasing until torque spec is reached. Then do one final Check that each fastener ‘clicks’ immediately once pressure is applied to handle - Trevor at until all match.
This applies to any cork gasket.
Isn’t there a couple of pins around 1” in diameter that took the place of the original pinion pin that holds the axle spacer block? A magnet will help you get them out since you can’t just push it out from the other end.
Throw some pictures up. It’s probably just the heat treatment applied in those areas.
Is this kinda what you are talking about?
- Thread starter
- #34
- Thread starter
- #35
- Thread starter
- #36
Just one large center pin. You can literally push out by spinning the hub and pulling it out. Then you take out the block.
- Thread starter
- #37
Kind of. Not so much on the very end. More on the shaft.
I’m just a shade tree dummy but that color looks okay to me.
- Thread starter
- #39
Me too. I have no idea. I thought it looked bad. Hopefully that’s normal.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
Unless you have a full floating rear there are C-clips holding the axle shafts in the differential. The shafts will not come out until they are removed.
Everything is accessible once you remove the rear cover that needs to be removed so that you can remove the axles.
