Long overdue update, but I was able to get a decent out of work done on the red wagon over Christmas/NYE break.
Turns out the old frame motor mounts for the SBC were a little off for the 5.3. So I ended up making a 1.5" spacer to put on the drivers side to help push the motor over to the passenger side and get it centered. As it sat without the spacer, the PS pump was getting into the steering box and the driver side manifold was hitting the frame. The spacer helped all of that. I had to take the engine out a few times to get everything squared, but it is in there for the final time.
I also got the SM465 bolted in. If you remember earlier, I had a 2wd version I got for cheap as a spare. But, I ended up sourcing a local 4wd 465 that has the np205 adapter and 10 spline coupler bolted to it. Got the clutch fork an throwout bearing all in and setup. I'm going to run a stock Toyota/Aisin clutch master and slave for this. I will need to make a customer bracket/adapter for the slave cylinder and run a new clutch line (was missing).
Next up is to get a trans cross-member made up. I've got some Energy Suspension poly mount bushings on the way that I will use.
I also got the newly dipped/coated fuel tank installed, along with fuel pump, and all the 6AN fuel lines run and connected to the stock 5.3 fuel hard lines. I used Russell twist lock line and fittings. Also replaced the tank to fuel filler neck fuel line and all the smaller vent hoses.
Next, I finished up the stock harness and got everything cleaned up and re-loomed. I ended up buying a Current Performance SA-1000 stand-alone fuse/relay module. I've got the harness partially laid out on the engine and most all connectors hooked up. I will be wiring up all the C1/C2 wires to the new standalone fuse/relay harness.
Ended up pressing the easy button and ordered Cam's LS PS hose adapter. Great fit and finish and fast shipping, thanks again!
-I'm terrible at taking pics, so I'll get some later today of the progress. Our local club has a big ride at Windrock this weekend, so the work on Red has slowed down over the last week. Trying to get some maintenance/work done on my blue 60 and 80 (not sure which I'll take to Windrock yet).
Got the stock GM engine harness all complete and wired up to the Current Performance Fuse/Relay block. My main hurdle was figuring out where to put the "12v signal" and "Crank Signal" wires from the CP block into the stock Toyota ignition. After some digging and looking at schematics I figured it out. Now the fuel pump primes when ignition turned to Run and the engine turns over like it should when cranking. My biggest hurdle to firing it up was finding the elusive Drive by Cable throttle body.
I've been struggling to find a DBC throttle body at the local pull-a-part for months now, so I broke down and ordered one on eBay. It finally showed up Wed night, so I hooked it up and the 5.3 fired right up the first try. I will say, I was pretty nervous about the initial start-up because of all the modification I did to the stock GM harness, but the work really isn't that bad to deal with.
My main issue now is that it will die immediately when you let your hand off the key. I have ~60 psi fuel pressure when cranking and have tried a few other troubleshooting things (unplug MAF, unplug TPS, check grounds etc.). After a lot of googling, It seems like VATS (anti-theft detection) wasn't turned off on the computer. I sent it off back in December to a reputable guy and asked him to remove VATS and a few other things. It could have been an oversight, I'm not sure. But since he lives half way across the country, I sent my computer off to a buddy in Huntsville for him to check it over and make sure VATS is removed. If it is removed, then I have some more digging to do, but I'm really hoping that's the issue.
Here's the rest of my to-do list to finish up:
-Add coolant and burp
-Wire in OBD2 port
-Clean/grease driver side wheel bearings and install into hub
-Lug studs in new rotor/hub and add new hub seal
-Set spindle/hub preload
-Change front diff oil
-Mount calipers, pads, and brake line
-Cut off old/existing trans crossmember brackets
-Build transmission crossmember w/ poly mounts
-Replace tcase to trans adapter seals
-Source new bolts for tcase to trans adapter (3/8-16 1.25" x8)
-Change fluid in trans and tcase
-Source tcase rear output flange
-Measure for driveshafts
-Modify 60 trans tunnel cover
-Build slave cylinder bracket to mount off bellhousing
-Run hard/soft line from master cylinder to slave cylinder
-Bleed clutch and test throw
-Modify 60 pedal
-Install GM cable and bracket
-Remove 60 low pressure hose and hard lines
-Install Hayden power steering cooler and lines
-Move overflow tank
-Install aftermarket air intake
Should be able to knock out the front axle rebuild stuff and finish up the power steering stuff this weekend.
I’ve welded up the shifter cane already and it made a huge difference.If your SM465 is an older one without the later factory 3rd gear sleeve spacer you should consider pulling it apart to upgrade. It's cheap but you can also turn one on a lathe or even make one in halves and install it through the side cover if you got creative. If you beat on them hard the snapring that holds 3rd gear in place gives out. Learned that the hard way.
The shifter cane also has a plastic bushing after the pivot ball and before the finger. Weld that sucker up solid and your shifter will no longer be able to go in 6" circles while in gear.
The video shows you exactly what happens... when you are full steam agianst 3rd gear in low range blasting up a snow covered hill in your K-5, and your heavy 39.5" Iroks (wearing V bar chains) grab a hidden log and suddenly catch traction.I’ve welded up the shifter cane already and it made a huge difference.
I haven’t read much about the 3rd gear spacer. I’m going to run it as is for the time
being. I’ll check out the video and see what I’m dealing with, thanks for sending that.