I swapped my 60 last year and got it finalized this year all except the A/C. I’m not getting power to the compressor! My A/C went out before I parked it for the swap. And I never did diagnose what was wrong before. What I have now is LQ9/Nv4500/split case. Using Holley Terminator X to control the motor. I have GM A/C compressor Mosley motor AC lines. I did the bypass on the A/C amp because the tac is the only thing that does not work in the cluster. And I figured if the A/C amp was not getting signal from the tac then it would not send 12v to the compressor. Still not getting power. I also had very high pressure on the high side and normal on the low when the compressor was running with 12v to it. So I removed the evaporator and Condenser and had Pratter Radiator here locally in Orlando clean and test them. The Evaporator had a clog which is why the refrigerant was not circulating causing the pressure to climb on the high side. Im getting ready to clean the evaporator box and add some new foam. I decided to replace the Expansion valve and check the low pressure switch. A Denso Expansion valve showed up but has an adapter. And when testing the Low Pressure Switch I’m getting a open circuit reading so I’m assuming that is bad going to look up how to properly test it.
85 FJ60 LS swap A/C gremlins.
- Thread starter Slow85
- Start date
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Are you sure that you bypassed the A/C amplifier properly? It's pins 3 & 7 on the female side of the plug that you'll stick a cotter pin in to bypass. Plug info below:
In order to get the A/C to work with the LS Swap, you need to remove a resistor on the amp board that senses the tach signal. You can read more about how I set mine up below:
In order to get the A/C to work with the LS Swap, you need to remove a resistor on the amp board that senses the tach signal. You can read more about how I set mine up below:
With it getting hot as hell in AZ I needed to get the A/C going. I overthought the hose situation for a while, but it was actually really simple to make my own lines and get it done. Here are the parts I bought to get it done:
Line Connections:
coldhose.com
...
Line Connections:
Universal R-134a Hose Kit
Universal R134a hose kit to run hoses for the entire system. The fittings are beadlock (US Made) with R-134a charging ports, this is a complete kit to change all the hoses on an Oring a/c system or to create new hoses for an aftermarket system. The hose kit includes the following: 6 Feet of # 6...
- Thread starter
- #3
Has anyone used a 86 and newer Low pressure sensor in a 85 and back. And if so any issues? 80-85 part number that is NLA
Are you sure that you bypassed the A/C amplifier properly? It's pins 3 & 7 on the female side of the plug that you'll stick a cotter pin in to bypass. Plug info below:
View attachment 3997412
In order to get the A/C to work with the LS Swap, you need to remove a resistor on the amp board that senses the tach signal. You can read more about how I set mine up below:
With it getting hot as hell in AZ I needed to get the A/C going. I overthought the hose situation for a while, but it was actually really simple to make my own lines and get it done. Here are the parts I bought to get it done:
Line Connections:
Universal R-134a Hose Kit
Universal R134a hose kit to run hoses for the entire system. The fittings are beadlock (US Made) with R-134a charging ports, this is a complete kit to change all the hoses on an Oring a/c system or to create new hoses for an aftermarket system. The hose kit includes the following: 6 Feet of # 6......
Are you sure that you bypassed the A/C amplifier properly? It's pins 3 & 7 on the female side of the plug that you'll stick a cotter pin in to bypass. Plug info below:
View attachment 3997412
In order to get the A/C to work with the LS Swap, you need to remove a resistor on the amp board that senses the tach signal. You can read more about how I set mine up below:
With it getting hot as hell in AZ I needed to get the A/C going. I overthought the hose situation for a while, but it was actually really simple to make my own lines and get it done. Here are the parts I bought to get it done:
Line Connections:
Universal R-134a Hose Kit
Universal R134a hose kit to run hoses for the entire system. The fittings are beadlock (US Made) with R-134a charging ports, this is a complete kit to change all the hoses on an Oring a/c system or to create new hoses for an aftermarket system. The hose kit includes the following: 6 Feet of # 6......
With it getting hot as hell in AZ I needed to get the A/C going. I overthought the hose situation for a while, but it was actually really simple to make my own lines and get it done. Here are the parts I bought to get it done:
Line Connections:
coldhose.com
...
Line Connections:
Universal R-134a Hose Kit
Universal R134a hose kit to run hoses for the entire system. The fittings are beadlock (US Made) with R-134a charging ports, this is a complete kit to change all the hoses on an Oring a/c system or to create new hoses for an aftermarket system. The hose kit includes the following: 6 Feet of # 6...
I can't imagine they'd be different, but they might be. It'd be worth a shot at least.
- Thread starter
- #5
I ordered a new Low pressure switch from Toyota. Part #88645-30250, I also order a Different Expansion Valve Denso Part# 475-0101 to see if it comes with an adapter or is a direct fit. The Denso one I have has an adapter and I feel like it is running out of threads before it seals. And yesterday a package with unobtainium was delivered. Denso Evaporator part # 472-0072. I ordered this 8 months ago and it just showed up!
That expansion valve is what I ended up getting for my 60 after the one that rockauto specified was incorrect. Its been working great on my 2/87 along with a denso evap and an LQ4. Ice cold for over a year now.
- Thread starter
- #7
The expansion valve with adapter is from Rock auto Part# Denso 475-206. And the one I took off had the adapter. Shiny one is the new one.
Could also eliminate the amp completely and use a relay off the ac switch to give the compressor 12v. Not sure if that’s helpful. I suppose could also run the relay or compressor ground through the low pressure switch to kill the system if needed.
Lastly you could forgo the pressure switch near the evaporator and use a binary pressure switch threaded into the port on the receiver/dryer.
Clean swap! Looks great.
Lastly you could forgo the pressure switch near the evaporator and use a binary pressure switch threaded into the port on the receiver/dryer.
Clean swap! Looks great.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Are you getting power to the ac amplifier?
- Thread starter
- #10
When I checked it before yes getting everything back in today and tomorrow and will check again.
- Thread starter
- #11
Expansion valve 475-0101 direct fit no adapter.
Evaporator-476-0072
Low pressure switch 88645-30250
Now I have 4 wires that I need to terminate starting in order from the A/C amp plug.
PIN 5 - Solid Black. Ignition Coil signal. (input). Where does that terminate?
PIN 6 - White/Black stripe. (Output) Chassis ground.
PIN 7 - Black/ White stripe. (Output) Magnetic clutch. To my green A/C wire on compressor.
Black/yellow stripe. Keyed Ignition 12+ wire. What do I need to connect this to. I assume it was to the coil.
Evaporator-476-0072
Low pressure switch 88645-30250
Now I have 4 wires that I need to terminate starting in order from the A/C amp plug.
PIN 5 - Solid Black. Ignition Coil signal. (input). Where does that terminate?
PIN 6 - White/Black stripe. (Output) Chassis ground.
PIN 7 - Black/ White stripe. (Output) Magnetic clutch. To my green A/C wire on compressor.
Black/yellow stripe. Keyed Ignition 12+ wire. What do I need to connect this to. I assume it was to the coil.
- Thread starter
- #12
Ok I install everything back into the truck and added 1.5lb of R134A. 85deg outside, A/C gauges hooked up 150 on high 80 on the low. Turn A/C on high and recirculate compressor comes on cold air blowing but quickly cycles back off after 15sec.
Low pressure when the A/C come on goes from 80 to 35. Then slowly drops from 35 to 22 over the course of 15-20 seconds compressor shuts off.
High side when A/C comes on is 150 builds up the 175 and then compressor shuts off and goes back to 150.
So not enough refrigerant I’m hoping thoughts.
Low pressure when the A/C come on goes from 80 to 35. Then slowly drops from 35 to 22 over the course of 15-20 seconds compressor shuts off.
High side when A/C comes on is 150 builds up the 175 and then compressor shuts off and goes back to 150.
So not enough refrigerant I’m hoping thoughts.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
22 psi on the low side will trip low pressure circuit
- Thread starter
- #14
Alright so I don’t think I’m low on refrigerant my pressures are 100psi on the low side and 100psi on the high side truck off a/c off. So the system is full. A stuck expansion valve will give you these symptoms. So I have read I have no clue! For some reason it’s not opening causing the low side to have a vacuum and slowly draw down the pressure from 35psi down to 22psi when the low pressure sensor kills power.
I have 10.5v at the compressor? I used a power probe and supplied 12v to the compressor and the pressures didn’t change still dropped. What’s up?
I have 10.5v at the compressor? I used a power probe and supplied 12v to the compressor and the pressures didn’t change still dropped. What’s up?