- Thread starter
- #461
Just ordered one, thanks!
Builds Red Dawn (60 converted 62 Build Thread w/ R2.8) (2 Viewers)
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Just ordered one, thanks!
- Thread starter
- #462
Hey all. It was a pretty crazy end to the year, but I did get some stuff done. Spent a good portion of my cruiser time doing Cruiser Cult things.
I built a second Eaton RTMR fuse and relay panel for the house battery. Put it on the passenger side.
Sorry about the instagram photo. It's pretty snug but fits ok. I had to trim the top of the cover and reattach it because the hood liner was hitting it.
The first thing I added to the panel was my under hood lighting. Designing a kit to sell through @Cruiser Cult so stay tuned for that.
No holes to drill or anything.
I enjoyed the truck around town for a while before real winter. Fixed a fuel leak and a coolant drip. Got the awning on (lighting for that will go to the house battery too).
Also got the ARB "rock sliders" installed. What a bear. They don't fit very well or my body mounts are really tired. Are there measurements somewhere to see if the mounts are compressed?
I am going to make an effort to post more. The truck is looking good and I'm working on a custom glovebox and some other camp lighting so things should get fun soon. Happy New Year!
I built a second Eaton RTMR fuse and relay panel for the house battery. Put it on the passenger side.
Sorry about the instagram photo. It's pretty snug but fits ok. I had to trim the top of the cover and reattach it because the hood liner was hitting it.
The first thing I added to the panel was my under hood lighting. Designing a kit to sell through @Cruiser Cult so stay tuned for that.
No holes to drill or anything.
I enjoyed the truck around town for a while before real winter. Fixed a fuel leak and a coolant drip. Got the awning on (lighting for that will go to the house battery too).
Also got the ARB "rock sliders" installed. What a bear. They don't fit very well or my body mounts are really tired. Are there measurements somewhere to see if the mounts are compressed?
I am going to make an effort to post more. The truck is looking good and I'm working on a custom glovebox and some other camp lighting so things should get fun soon. Happy New Year!
- Thread starter
- #463
I got the HJ61 turbo tachometer finally all figured out. The green light is a "soft fault" if and when the engine throws a code but you can keep driving. The amber light is the "wait to start" and the "hard fault" light. I need to add a resistor in series to tone down the green LED a bit. The whole dash is back in, hopefully for the last time. I'll be at the cruiserhead meetup tomorrow. If you click on the below you'll watch lights turn off.
Untitled by NicSteph Foster, on Flickr
Untitled by NicSteph Foster, on Flickrrossl
SILVER Star
I'll have to head to the cruiserhead meet tomorrow - I'd love to take a look at your 60.
- Thread starter
- #465
I'm selling a car and the shipper is supposed to call me before arriving so I can't guarantee that I will 100% be there if the car hauler calls out of the blue, but I'm planning to.
Finally sell the Bav?!
- Thread starter
- #467
The cruiserhead get together was good. I was the first one there and then it got dark.
- Thread starter
- #468
One of the issues with running the engine harness into the cab the way I did was that the stock glovebox insert was deep enough to run into it. Instead of cutting a nice insert up and trying to glue it back together, I decided to try and challenge myself a bit with an aluminum project. I want to keep the murphy gauge that came with the cummins, but didn't want it in plain sight. My goal has always been to sit in the drives seat and not know it's a modern swap until you turn the key. I also wanted more switches for house battery things which is mostly lighting for when I'm parked, I think I'll add more to the back at some point in the future for more kitchen things (I don't know). I also bought a digital thermometer. I like knowing what the temp is outside when I set off. I ran a thermocouple to the front bumper in preparation for this. I thought about putting the display where the clock is on the dash, but I kind of like that old school clock. So I had all this "stuff" that I wanted to put somewhere and kind of out of sight unless I really want it and I had to build a glovebox insert. Sooooo......
Now I have to admit, I built this thing 3 times probably. I used the side pieces from the start, but I did every other piece 2 or 3 times. Tacking it together, checking for fit, cursing, then cutting it apart and rebuilding some stuff. This also was not the easiest thing for me to weld, which is very evident. Apart from the cutout panel it is all .040 and .032 aluminum. My Lincoln TIG200 is not a high frequency machine and I am not a professional by any means. So some of the welds burst through, or the material started sagging, but that's ok.
I put the stock pocket light back in there. At this point I decided to paint it black. With the glovebox door closed you could see the raw aluminum on the perimeter which wasn't a great look. The black also hides some of my welding crimes.
I need to get everything wired (obviously) but this is a convenient place to hide all the wires for the time being.
And this is the first time I have not had wires hanging in the passenger foot well. I always left them there as a reminder to get this project done and it feels good to finally have what, on the surface, looks like a complete interior again. I know witsend makes an aluminum insert and I thought about buying one, but I would have felt like a complete ass cutting it apart.
Now I have to admit, I built this thing 3 times probably. I used the side pieces from the start, but I did every other piece 2 or 3 times. Tacking it together, checking for fit, cursing, then cutting it apart and rebuilding some stuff. This also was not the easiest thing for me to weld, which is very evident. Apart from the cutout panel it is all .040 and .032 aluminum. My Lincoln TIG200 is not a high frequency machine and I am not a professional by any means. So some of the welds burst through, or the material started sagging, but that's ok.
I put the stock pocket light back in there. At this point I decided to paint it black. With the glovebox door closed you could see the raw aluminum on the perimeter which wasn't a great look. The black also hides some of my welding crimes.
I need to get everything wired (obviously) but this is a convenient place to hide all the wires for the time being.
And this is the first time I have not had wires hanging in the passenger foot well. I always left them there as a reminder to get this project done and it feels good to finally have what, on the surface, looks like a complete interior again. I know witsend makes an aluminum insert and I thought about buying one, but I would have felt like a complete ass cutting it apart.
One of the issues with running the engine harness into the cab the way I did was that the stock glovebox insert was deep enough to run into it. Instead of cutting a nice insert up and trying to glue it back together, I decided to try and challenge myself a bit with an aluminum project. I want to keep the murphy gauge that came with the cummins, but didn't want it in plain sight. My goal has always been to sit in the drives seat and not know it's a modern swap until you turn the key. I also wanted more switches for house battery things which is mostly lighting for when I'm parked, I think I'll add more to the back at some point in the future for more kitchen things (I don't know). I also bought a digital thermometer. I like knowing what the temp is outside when I set off. I ran a thermocouple to the front bumper in preparation for this. I thought about putting the display where the clock is on the dash, but I kind of like that old school clock. So I had all this "stuff" that I wanted to put somewhere and kind of out of sight unless I really want it and I had to build a glovebox insert. Sooooo......
Now I have to admit, I built this thing 3 times probably. I used the side pieces from the start, but I did every other piece 2 or 3 times. Tacking it together, checking for fit, cursing, then cutting it apart and rebuilding some stuff. This also was not the easiest thing for me to weld, which is very evident. Apart from the cutout panel it is all .040 and .032 aluminum. My Lincoln TIG200 is not a high frequency machine and I am not a professional by any means. So some of the welds burst through, or the material started sagging, but that's ok.
I put the stock pocket light back in there. At this point I decided to paint it black. With the glovebox door closed you could see the raw aluminum on the perimeter which wasn't a great look. The black also hides some of my welding crimes.
I need to get everything wired (obviously) but this is a convenient place to hide all the wires for the time being.
And this is the first time I have not had wires hanging in the passenger foot well. I always left them there as a reminder to get this project done and it feels good to finally have what, on the surface, looks like a complete interior again. I know witsend makes an aluminum insert and I thought about buying one, but I would have felt like a complete ass cutting it apart.
That's really ****in cool man. Nice work, I haven't seen that in a 60 before.
- Thread starter
- #471
I finally got all the rusty and greasy skid plates re-done locally. Really happy with the results and the texture. Now just need some fresh new hardware to install them.
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- #472
Pretty bummed my OME HD kit has sagged this much over the few years I've had it. On 32" tires I'm only at 35" on the fender opening up front. Who has Kit recommendations for an FJ62 with a front bumper? I'll probably keep the shocks but just replace the leafs. The R2.8 is only 500 lbs which isn't far off from the 3FE, but I guess the HD kit couldn't hold up. The rear looks low to me as well?
- Thread starter
- #474
37" is stuck in my head, but I didn't write anything down.
Count the leafs in the front and rear.Pretty bummed my OME HD kit has sagged this much over the few years I've had it. On 32" tires I'm only at 35" on the fender opening up front. Who has Kit recommendations for an FJ62 with a front bumper? I'll probably keep the shocks but just replace the leafs. The R2.8 is only 500 lbs which isn't far off from the 3FE, but I guess the HD kit couldn't hold up. The rear looks low to me as well?
You can un bolt the pack and put one more in to make give it a little more lift. Sometimes you need to change out the center pins.
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- #476
5 leafs
And I went from this:
To this:
Granted the before picture is just the engine and no fenders or hood, radiator etc. Did I really add enough weight to compress the whole suspension that much? I can see that the front 3rd member has actually kissed the oilpan. I assume I can maybe lift the engine a little bit more, try and push it to the drivers side but it sure is tight on the steering box.
I also measured @red66toy front end and his fender is a little taller on 29" tires so I know I'm at least 1.5" shorter than his axle centerline since I'm on 32" tires.
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- #477
Pretty telling here I think no? Am I seeing things?
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- #479
I had the winch. The engine swap was really the only difference, and time. I'm going to get some heavys from Tor today.You also added a winch since the first pic…
I have a brand new extra heavy leaf pack and I’m sitting at just over 37” from ground to bottom of fender with 34” tires.
Do you know exactly what paint/powdercoat that is? That is the exact texture I'm looking to achieve on my bumpers, sliders, and other exterior items. I was planning to use Raptor coating but I'm worried it will be a little "too" textured.
