Builds Red Dawn (60 converted 62 Build Thread w/ R2.8) (1 Viewer)

[TheNeek]

UPDATE:
Don't do it this way. I'm an idiot. I basically attached the pressurized lower radiator pipe to the open overflow. This will cause the system to push coolant out the overflow. The R2.8 manual shows this setup for a sealed overflow system (which they prefer). I undid all this and do not have any type of aeration circuit in the truck. The radiator top take is easily the highest point in the system and it bleeds / burps fine.

Greetings. Today's post is about the radiator overflow. I didn't like how the stock routing was working out. The silicone line was not routing cleanly and ended up just looking bad. The T junction provides access to a port on the lower radiator hose.

So I made a 5/16ths hardline part. I'll get some billet p-clamps and tig weld the clamp bases to the fan shroud along with some spring clamps to seal up the line on the fittings. Loaned out my flaring tool so I'll have to flare it when I get that back.

Drilled a hole to make my own T.

Much better

I also finished up the heater lines.

 

[Bullzi]

Wow, nice work! Love how clean it is turning out! Makes me want to invest in a TIG setup

 

[TheNeek]

I got some clips mounted for the overflow tank line. All in all I think this turned out pretty well. I found a few coolant leaks in my pipes as well so it's been a few days of filling and draining the coolant system.

The spring clips holding the silicone hose to the hardline in that photo are trash. I got some new ones that are better. That really is the end of the coolant system, finally. I filled it up and checked for leaks. Speaking of filling it up and checking for leaks. This ValvoMax quick oil change system is awesome for the radiator. The mishimoto radiator has an M12-1.50 port on the bottom with a standard drain plug. I want to say that the stock radiator has one as well? Either way, this system is super nice and allowed me to fill the coolant system twice and drain it twice without wasting any and being able to reuse it.

There is basically a spring loaded ball valve that allows the drain tube to be the only thing that releases the fluid.

It's so easy I could even take pictures while I was doing it (bad focus on the next one).

The hose that came with the system was a bit short for a LC radiator. Like the package says it targets oil changes which is closer to the ground. The system isn't the cheapest thing, but if you plan on doing coolant flushes frequently this is awesome. Or on the trail if you have to do something to the coolant system but need to keep your coolant this could save the day.

 

[TheNeek]

I think by now, most of you have realized I don't like drilling extra holes in the truck. That goes double for giant holes for wire bundles. For the longest time I have been planning on using this giant hole in the firewall. I can't even remember what it was for originally. Either way, the R2.8 comes with a big bulkhead harness that connects the interior do-dads, to the engine. It fit so well in that factory hole that I decided to tackle some sort of barbed clip to snap it in.

It's pretty simple and would be fairly neat if I was using it the way Cummins intended. The right side (engine side) is supposed to key into a hole you drill and the big plastic hex nut holds it tight to the fire wall. Then you thread the cab side harness to that. Since the hole I was using was oversize I can't use the "key" on the engine side to keep it from spinning. I don't think it will spin much but I'll tie up the cab size harness under the dash to keep it from getting all twisted, it really doesn't seem like it will spin much anyway.

After two tries, here is the part. It's basically a barbed flange that I 3D printed. The next picture really shows how tight things are but it really does fit perfect.

Here it is in place with the hex nut turned down. The inner part of the barbs fit on the flats of the nut and I could tighten the whole thing down by hand. They are all big pieces so you can get some decent torque on them with bare hands. This little piece converted a nut-on bulkhead fitting to a snap-in style.

Now with the cab-side harness plugged in. This really shows the intent.

All snapped in. I fear if I ever have to pull this apart. Getting those barbs loose from the inside would be a bunch of under-dash disassembly.

 

[TheNeek]

The last thing to bolt to the truck before I can wire up the transmission is the electronic control module for the 6L80E. It's a pretty simple box, but the harness and connector are fairly bulky. I decided to make a shelf for mounting the ECM to and to mount my Eaton RTMR 15305 Mini Fuse and Micro Relay box to. I didn't take any photos of the actual build as I wasn't 100% on whether it would work or I would like it.

It fit great and I was ready to mount the two electronic things to it.

I think the space on the left there will be for some engine bay light switch? A little extra room for something in the future.

So there you have it. All the big pieces are mounted. The plan is to get the transmission signals to the truck wired. A switched 12v to the transmission ECM. The park / neutral signal needs to be routed to a starter relay. The brake lights need to be sent to the ECM so that the transmission can unlock the torque convertor. The reverse signal needs to be put onto a relay as well to turn on the reverse lights. I need to finish up the Can-Bus attachment in the engine bay. Already ran the wires but need to get the Deutsch contacts in to finish it. The Covid-19 pandemic has really made some parts impossible to find. Then I'll be hooking everything up to the batteries and firing the truck for the first time. Fingers crossed it's next weekend. You can see in the photos that the wiring is not finished. I will be spending a considerable amount of time cleaning everything up as soon as I know it all works.

 

[NookShneer]

The last thing to bolt to the truck before I can wire up the transmission is the electronic control module for the 6L80E. It's a pretty simple box, but the harness and connector are fairly bulky. I decided to make a shelf for mounting the ECM to and to mount my Eaton RTMR 15305 Mini Fuse and Micro Relay box to. I didn't take any photos of the actual build as I wasn't 100% on whether it would work or I would like it.

It fit great and I was ready to mount the two electronic things to it.

I think the space on the left there will be for some engine bay light switch? A little extra room for something in the future.

So there you have it. All the big pieces are mounted. The plan is to get the transmission signals to the truck wiring. A switched 12v to the transmission ECM. The park / neutral signal needs to be routed to a starter relay. The brake lights need to be sent to the ECM so that the transmission can unlock the torque convertor. The reverse signal needs to be put onto a relay as well to turn on the reverse lights. I need to finish up the Can-Bus attachment in the engine bay. Already ran the wires but need to get the Deutsch contacts in to finish it. The Covid-19 pandemic has really made some parts impossible to find. Then I'll be hooking everything up to the batteries and firing the truck for the first time. Fingers crossed it's next weekend. You can see in the photos that the wiring is not finished. I will be spending a considerable amount of time cleaning everything up as soon as I know it all works.

Fantastic work Nic! Can’t wait to drool over this in person.

 

[ProwlerDriver]

this is so clean, I love it.

 

[TheNeek]

this is so clean, I love it.

Fantastic work Nic! Can’t wait to drool over this in person.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

 

[TheNeek]

Getting close. Missed my target of starting the truck this weekend but that's because I'm overly cautious and wanted to ask Zero Gravity some questions about the 6L80E. Barring any setbacks, might try to turn it over tonight.

This weekends progress was all about cabin wiring.

Made another bracket. Sorry about the instagram story photo. I didn't take many photos during this little progress. I guess I was a little excited. This guy fits under the dash to the door side of the brake pedal. There is a photo of it installed at the end. I put a few bus blocks, a fuse and the tach module on there:

It fits pretty well under there. I'll get it tidied up once I fire up the truck. Happy with this bracket though. Didn't drill any new holes and there is a little room for expansion still.

I was a bit overzealous, but I put oil in it yesterday. I'll crank it over with out firing to get it pushed through everywhere and check the level. Wish me luck!

 

[TheNeek]

First start was a success! Made my first YouTube video. Should say it all.

FJ62 Cummins R2.8 First Start

 

[TheNeek]

After the successful running of the engine, the tidying up starts. Mostly wiring. To that end, I want to clean up the items that require connection to the battery terminal. That is the Starter, RTMR fuse box (which cleans up a bunch of stuff), and the gird heater solenoid. The later of which came with cable with fusible link. The cable doesn't say what the rating is, nor can I find anything specific on the solenoid itself and what it can transmit. So I'm taking a bit of a gamble here switching it to a fuse, might pop a few of them on the first try. If so, I'll go back to the fused cable and deal with the unclean look. Here is the box I am going to use. It's an Eaton PDM-AMI 3 position distribution box. It has integrated ANI or MIDI fuse holders for each output. They come in 2 and 4 position variants as well. Pretty slick, compact, weatherproof way to fuse all the main feeds to the things in the truck. Not sure it would be adequate to run a winch though. Main feed is on the far right in the photo below. I'm running a 1awg cable in and mostly 4awg out. The fuse panel will get something smaller.

Of course everything needs a bracket:

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Hanging it from the brake master cylinder. Cylinder is nutted to the booster, and then the bracket and another nut. It's fairly stout, if needed I can add another support somewhere.

Spent a good bit of Sunday making cables and planning out all the wire routing. Nothing to really show yet though so I'll wait on that.

 

[TheNeek]

I've been playing around with the ashtray slot as a place for 4 Contura switches. I know that 60 bezels can take the standard pieces but haven't seen any solutions for an FJ62 AC Bezel ashtray. Let me know if I'm re-inventing the wheel here. This is version 3.0, but it's close enough that I thought I'd show it off.

Uses the factory hardware for holding the bezel on, but I might need longer screws. No mods so far on the ashtray slot or the bezel. Still some adjustments but I'm pretty happy with it so far. Final part would be sanded and painted if I keep it 3D printed or I might do it aluminum.

 

[TheNeek]

Lamest update ever, but important for me. The driver's side kick panel went back on yesterday.

Dangling wires are for the "turbo" tachometer lights. I got that in the dash as well. Have to hook them up to the R2.8 "wait to start", "warning", and "stop" signals.

 

[TheNeek]

Trying to keep all the plates spinning for clean up. Started wiring up the fuse / relay panel. Don't have any of the accessories on there yet, but it's a start. Finally wrapped the driver's side harness in Tesa wire loom harness tape, which means anything on the drivers side at this point is a modification (I have a few planned already). Working a few brackets at the moment to pin some of this stuff up so the truck is fit for purpose. I want to get it driving down the road in a respectable state by Christmas.

The Bussman RTMR Panel

Starting to look like it all belongs. I can't wait to take that blue tape off, but I set stuff on there all the time right now.

Headlights on with new mounts and trim rings, repainted buckets and all new hardware.

 

[TheNeek]

Did more brackets this weekend. Still working on buttoning everything up. Working towards getting out to the last Cruiserhead meet of the year. Fingers crossed. There is a ground cable and fuel line that goes to the engine and a prime spot on the water pump. Commence the bracket construction!

Cut up some billet aluminum brackets and tig welded them onto the folded aluminum bracket. I think it worked out pretty well.

I mentioned that the RTMR fuse / relay box doesn't do grounds. Stlight oversight on my part. No big deal, just another excuse for a bracket and ground busbar.

There is a cover for it, but this will work really well. I bought a air powered rivnut gun and used it on this as well as a couple other brackets this weekend. I have to put the second battery relay in to attach the main fused link harness to since I moved the main battery to the driver's side. So another bracket was needed.

Should work pretty good. Needs some tweaking.

 

[Bullzi]

Your bracket game is on point!!

This looks really good, so clean!

 

[TheNeek]

Your bracket game is on point!!

This looks really good, so clean!

Thanks.
When you just make brackets every weekend, you’re bound to get half way decent at it at some point. I really hope the bracket making slows down at some point.

 

[mattressking]

Haven't been in the 60 section in a bit - glad I saw some updates! Swap has come along beautifully! Glad to see you got it running, congratulations!

 

[TheNeek]

Haven't been in the 60 section in a bit - glad I saw some updates! Swap has come along beautifully! Glad to see you got it running, congratulations!

"You're like a child that wanders into the middle of a movie and wants to know ...."




For anyone who thinks I'm being rude. It's a reference to Nate's favorite movie. Mine too.

 

[mattressking]

"You're like a child that wanders into the middle of a movie and wants to know ...."




For anyone who thinks I'm being rude. It's a reference to Nate's favorite movie. Mine too.

"DAVE, YOU'RE OUT OF YOUR ELEMENT!"