Recovery point from 4 holes in rear bumper (1 Viewer)

[rc51kid]

Keep in mind that the load forces put on a TOW HOOK are quite different than those put on a RECOVERY HOOK. THis particular debete can rage on forever without any solid resolution. It comes down to you making the choice of what you will use on your own rig.

This is a good point. I guess what i am asking is, which is stronger, factory location or the type of mount shown above attacthed to the 4 bolt holes?

 

[Neil826]

There was a similar thread about Nissan patrols which came with a tie down point attached with 4 bolts in a identical place to an 80 series. There was some good info about bolts being sheer loaded vs the threads holding the weight. The also talked about the captive nuts being pulled though the chassis. I will try find it

 

[superstan26]

This is a good point. I guess what i am asking is, which is stronger, factory location or the type of mount shown above attacthed to the 4 bolt holes?

If anybody, wants to donate their rig to the cause I'll help test it, but my vote is for the frame attached tie down, recovery point whatever you want to call it.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

I can tell you that MY crossmember deflected when I had a pintle hitch attached to the bumper and did a few (3) recoveries pulling my truck out of mud. And those weren't even "hard" recoveries.

I wouldn't suggest it for any kind of recovery. The deflection was only obvious once I tried to put my IPOR bumper on and couldn't get the bolts to properly align...

 

[superstan26]

I can tell you that MY crossmember deflected when I had a pintle hitch attached to the bumper and did a few (3) recoveries pulling my truck out of mud. And those weren't even "hard" recoveries.

I wouldn't suggest it for any kind of recovery. The deflection was only obvious once I tried to put my IPOR bumper on and couldn't get the bolts to properly align...

Thanks, this satisfies my curiosity.

 

[greentruck]

Yeah, use the loops on the frame for any serious recovery work. They are set up to transmit the force in a straight line to the frame. I agree they can be improved on, but they're attached to the right spot.

The hitch mount in the center is attached to the frame at a 90 degree angle. It's like having a lever sticking out that you yank on, rather than the frame itself. It will eventually deflect long before a frame mounted recovery point.

Why attach your recovery point to anything less than the most solid, least likely to bend location?

 

[toastyjosh]

Old thread,
I am thinking about this one to replace my hitch as a recovery point.

Forged 4-Bolt Mount Lunette Drawbar Ring, 90k #BDB1394

Stock# 1326170BUYERS PRODUCTS 3" I.D. Ring, 90,000 lbs. (GTW) rating, (19,000 lbs. maximum vertical load). Bolt-on design forged H.D. steel drawbar.

www.easternmarine.com

 

[Box Rocket]

Old thread,
I am thinking about this one to replace my hitch as a recovery point.

Forged 4-Bolt Mount Lunette Drawbar Ring, 90k #BDB1394

Stock# 1326170BUYERS PRODUCTS 3" I.D. Ring, 90,000 lbs. (GTW) rating, (19,000 lbs. maximum vertical load). Bolt-on design forged H.D. steel drawbar.

www.easternmarine.com

I think the information in this thread still applies. That lunette may be strong enough on it's own but the rear crossmember (4-bolts you intend to use) may not be up to the task for recovery purposes. The rear crossmember would need to be reinforced IMO, but you're better off using frame mounted recovery points (securely attached to the frame rails, not the crossmember).

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

After seeing first hand what the factory (pictured) recovery points can take I would not hesitate to use them for any recovery.

 

[cody c]

I'm going to suggest an alternative that's cheap and handy..

Take off the aluminum step plate.
Put pipe straps with rubber on them on the front edge of the step plate, and wrap those around the steel bar that supports the front edge.

Now you can lift up your step plate and drop a strap through and around your crossmember. You can loop it off centre to decrease chances of deformation.

The chances of shearing the whole crossmember and launching is much less than sheared bolts in my opinion, to me it's much safer for recovery.

The Pintle hitch seems dangerous, as it is a fair bit of mass, if those bolts shear the potential for launching thy at high velocity is critical.

Now, opposed to the rear crossmember getting torn out, if it did let go, it would use a lot of energy tearing welds and steel before launch and would be more likely to let go from one side and still be connected to the other, or spin off one side and not towards recovery vehicle.

Plus you don't have to climb under your vehicle and you can put recover hitch Pins in easier, but you may want some rubber under it to prevent rattle

 

[toastyjosh]

thanks!
You dont happen to have a pic of that do you ? I am a visual learner.
Cheers!!

 

[cody c]

thanks!
You dont happen to have a pic of that do you ? I am a visual learner.
Cheers!!

She be a bit dirty!

My step plate is notched, I have a latch mechanism from a nissan pathfinder (junkyard) and it works well, opens and closes with one finger and locks well enough,

There is square tube reciever hitch welded both sides of the crossmember tubing, and triangle gussets (4) at different angles in teh middle, so I'd have to offset a recovery strap. I think you can just make out the dirty pipe straps on the metal that act as a hinge.

It doesn't rattle, but a bit of the weight of the swingout rests on it, have some delron bolted to the steel on the bottom face of the swingout and a piece that presses against it from the back edge above the hitch.

With the swingout open, I can lift the step plate and put in a hitch standing from above instead of kneeling to blindly reach under to try and put the reciever pin in, and the close the step plate and swingout.

 

[1973Guppie]

just make sure you have one of these and you will be fine.

 

[cody c]

just make sure you have one of these and you will be fine.

View attachment 1898176

Haha. My younger brother put a set on my dads Cummins years ago. We told him we couldn't believe how much the balls thing had for weeks before he figured it out.

Eventually the fall off and one of his buddies found them and it happened to a couple other people too.

Edit: just talked to dad, he said Jen put them on his friend Gord's truck and they fell off at an intersection, one of his friends seen it and told him he seen his balls fall off and slide across the ground. He still chuckles about it.

 

[Tools R Us]

... the balls thing ...

A girl I know carried a can of blue spray paint for use on those,,, anyway, she thought it was funny!

 

[Hornd]

I want to see pictures of the loop failures.

I recently saw a school bus with similar loop and in order to break the weld you would have to first straighten the loop.

Toyota thinks of everything, and I mean everything, and if those were not safe for recovery they would have warnings and notices all over them. They are also held on my fine thread high grade bolts so the shear force would be immense.

I would not use the bumper for support of anything. The Tow Hitch by design is pretty strong but I would choose the loops over towhitch. Ideally both loops so load is 1/2 on each.

 

[ThunderRolls]

Get behind that rear crossmember and look through the hole at how thin the metal is there where the four holes are. I've debated cutting a square hole all the way through it and welding a thicker piece of steel behind the rear crossmember and using that reinforcement to make the bumper more solid for towing or potential recovery.

 

[Tools R Us]

I want to see pictures of the loop failures.
...

It has happened and pictures have been posted here. That said, have pulled on them pretty good without failure, would say it's rare. Have looked at a bunch of them and some are welded better than others.

 

[Heckraiser]

I have used the hoops for light recovery with no issue. What has me confident in their strength is the amount of times I've used them as rock anchors and they still look pretty good

Since I have a 35" spare under the truck and can't use the receiver anymore, I plan to reinforce the crossmember and weld a receiver into it for towing the camper. Another mudder did it like this--I would not copy that exactly, but that's the general idea:

I will still use the hoops for recovery or upgrade to the Trail Tailor tow points for recovery.

Tow Points

Just arrived. 60, 80 and 100 tow points. 1/2" grade 70 laser cut- 60.00 a pair bare metal or 80.00 a pair in red powder coat. Available at CruiserMart now: Tow Points - 60 80 100 Series 200 Series Front Tow Mounts Jason

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Hornd]

It has happened and pictures have been posted here. That said, have pulled on them pretty good without failure, would say it's rare. Have looked at a bunch of them and some are welded better than others.

If mine look weak on weld they are getting preheated and welded.