Hole in Roof

[Voodoo1455]

What would be the best way to repair this hole? I already used some stuff to neutralise and seal the rust, but as you can see, there is a massive hole that has formed. My idea was to clean up the hole with a dremel and put some cardboard in there so I can JB Weld it. Are there any better methods?

 

[NeverFinis]

Oh..that is bad...

JB Weld will not last. Maybe fireglass.

I would cut it out, and replace with new sheet metal. The sheet metal should have a flange that you can slip under the existing roof metal. The flange will help with welding. Weld a spot at a time, and move around. Go very slowly.

You can try silicon bronze brazing as it would be less likely to warp the existing metal.

Then smooth with bondo.

 

[Kernal]

Which type headliner does your 80 have, one piece or cloth with bows?
One piece is easier to remove but still need two people so it doesn't fold/bend near the sunroof hole.

One method for a quick/temp fix, if you have the one piece headliner, first pull down the u-shaped thingy that goes over the pinch weld and the edge of the headliner, then gently pull the headliner down enough to slide in a fireproof welding type cloth under the hole (so you don't set the headliner on fire).

Then using a grinding wheel, clean up the rusty area some more (the rust extends well beyond what is seen in the photo above). With a dremel you could cut out the very thin edges of the rust hole, then re-apply a rust converter like OSPHO or RustMort. Then take a section of metal mesh screen you can find at any parts store even Wally Marts, stuff that in the hole and slather some steel reinforced Bondo over it (JB Weld worked for me on a much smaller area on the rear hatch), then sand, seal, prime, paint. Won't look professional (not many people will ever see it up there) but it should last at least a few years.

Others may have their own method, FWIW.

A very good rattle can primer (non catalzed) is, IME, Transtar 2 in 1 primer, it's much better (binds/seals) than anything off the shelf from the parts store or Wally Marts. There are also a few brands of 2k Epoxy primer and 2k Epoxy topcoat (generic white). For a matching color 2k topcoat there are companies that will mix up catalyzed paint (Toyota 045 for your white 80) in a spray can which is also much better than anything off the shelf.

Amazon.com: Transtar 4603 Gray 2-in-1 Primer - 15oz : Automotive

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Already mentioned above, to fix it right; remove the headliner, cut out the bad section, flange the edges, and weld in good sheet metal, grind, sand, seal, prime, paint.

The link below shows how to use a flange tool to create a ledge for the new metal to sit on, then spot weld through the punched out holes.

Start watching around 4:00:

 

[COS80]

For the topcoat there are companies that will mix up 2k catalyzed paint (Toyota 045 for your white 80) in a spray can which is much better than anything off the shelf at a parts store.

Who does this? Local paint jobbers?

 

[SNLC]

Who does this? Local paint jobbers?

Automotive paint stores.

Cheers

 

[Kernal]

Already answered; if you have an Automotive Body Shop/Paint supply store in your area, ask them. There are other sources online. IIRC even Sherwin Williams stores can order that (or make it in house).

 

[COS80]

Our local jobber does aerosol cans for ~$40. Thanks for this tip!

 

[Kernal]

@COS80 : I'm not a body repair expert so take it FWIW, long before you use the top coat the prep of the sheet metal is everything, remove as much rust as you can then kill the rust left in the pits, then bondo/prime/paint for a quick/temp fix. Ideally you should cut all the rusty metal out then weld in a patch (butt weld or over-lapped like described above).

If you can't weld it yourself you might could find a local welder or body shop who would do at least that one part of the repair for you. Most important part is not setting the headliner or roof insulation on fire.

One small tip: if you do the flange/lapped sheet metal technique you can apply SEM Zinc Weld aerosol spray to the part of the sheet metal that will
be overlapped on each other ie like a zinc sandwich: metal-zinc-metal. However the Zinc Weld product is NOT a primer, paint will not stick very well to it and it can also make it a bit harder to weld through so some people might scratch a bit of it off in the punch hole area to make it easier to get the weld arc started (see video above). It's sole purpose is to add some zinc to the bare sheet metal that's overlapped to help prevent rust from starting between the sheets. You need to remove any over-spray of the Zinc Weld before you prime and paint ie: after grinding down the welds, sanding, etc.

A body shop could do that repair but it wouldn't be cheap so takes your pick, quick/temp fix or bite the bullet and pay the man.

 

[jfz80]

Not sure it’s worth it over just same gauge sheet metal but you could like get a roof section from a part out to fit that. I might even be willing if one is not available closer

 

[BILT4ME]

Gorilla Tape Duct tape in black.

Good stuff. Get the 4" wide rolls.