Good job man! That tailgate window is a thorn in the side for all of us.
rear body mounts (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter xtiaan2000
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #802
About ready to finish the rear and start moving forward.
- Thread starter
- #803
Decided to smooth the mounts out as well.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
That looks really killer!
Would you be able to get a pic of that from the front side?
Would you be able to get a pic of that from the front side?- Thread starter
- #805
That looks really killer!
I did this on my original body. There are more pics earlier on in this thread, and I’ll get some more tomorrow.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Burn it in 
- Thread starter
- #807
Got more work done!
My boy Dave came over and we got busy. At least for us!
Pics
My boy Dave came over and we got busy. At least for us!
Pics
- Thread starter
- #808
Here’s some more.
Only the corner of the rear sill are burned in. All the rest is semi tacked in. Before I make it permanent - sandblast/por15 all the inside surfaces.
Only the corner of the rear sill are burned in. All the rest is semi tacked in. Before I make it permanent - sandblast/por15 all the inside surfaces.
- Thread starter
- #809
When I took apart the fender flares I saw this rust, which makes me think where else is it on the whole inner area at the front of the wheel well. Ahhh the depth of the rabbit hole is oh so deep!
I like pics
I like pics
- Thread starter
- #810
Cool bottom pic.
Funny my whole thread starts with these same job!
Funny my whole thread starts with these same job!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
You are really getting after it!!!
- Thread starter
- #812
This is the one to do it on. Just really slow, but got the drivers side almost done.
I think I spend more time thinking about it then I do doing
I think I spend more time thinking about it then I do doing
This is the one to do it on. Just really slow, but got the drivers side almost done.
I think I spend more time thinking about it then I do doing
View attachment 1962823
That’ll do. Nice work. I want to see those clecos in work.
- Thread starter
- #814
Super cool tool. Had always seen them on shows, and finally found out! Can’t wait to use them
- Thread starter
- #815
More work done. Cut out the inside of the rear fender so I could address the rust in the flare of the fender.
Then got to the rocker. Lots of rust yucky stuff in there but I think the new will be awesome. Doing all the work on the passenger side and then move foward on the driver. Right now I amfabbing all the parts then I will sandblast and por15 all the internals and weld back in.
Anyone see anything that I might do differently.
Next will be to do the front floor pan!
Then got to the rocker. Lots of rust yucky stuff in there but I think the new will be awesome. Doing all the work on the passenger side and then move foward on the driver. Right now I amfabbing all the parts then I will sandblast and por15 all the internals and weld back in.
Anyone see anything that I might do differently.
Next will be to do the front floor pan!
- Thread starter
- #816
Gonna need a rotisserie to weld all this back together nicely!
Anyone round conejo valley with one already made?!!!
Anyone round conejo valley with one already made?!!!
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Like how you trimmed out the rocker sheetmetal but left the supports intact
How thick are you going with that tubing?
Many guys like to go 1/4” thick, but I think it’s pretty reasonable to go 1/8” (or even less if you’re not planning on rock crawling). It’s a sizable chunk of weight hanging there, and for the most part will probably go unnoticed, but it does create an amount of stress on the factory sheet joints and spotwelds. The sliders I made out of 2-1/2” square and 1”x2” rectangular were almost 50 lbs each. And while mine were bolted and not welded in, they were waay overkill, and they got used pretty frequently. The nice thing about thicker steel sliders, even if only 1/8”, if you actually were able to dent one, how easy would it be to fix? Pretty easy, right?
Not suggesting you change what you have going on already, but just a point of discussion I’ve been pondering on lately.
How thick are you going with that tubing?
Many guys like to go 1/4” thick, but I think it’s pretty reasonable to go 1/8” (or even less if you’re not planning on rock crawling). It’s a sizable chunk of weight hanging there, and for the most part will probably go unnoticed, but it does create an amount of stress on the factory sheet joints and spotwelds. The sliders I made out of 2-1/2” square and 1”x2” rectangular were almost 50 lbs each. And while mine were bolted and not welded in, they were waay overkill, and they got used pretty frequently. The nice thing about thicker steel sliders, even if only 1/8”, if you actually were able to dent one, how easy would it be to fix? Pretty easy, right?
Not suggesting you change what you have going on already, but just a point of discussion I’ve been pondering on lately.
Butt welding rusty steel is a challenge, doing it upside down with a gap is going to suck.
I would spot weld a doubler on the inside before I installed the rockers.
Looks great keep up the good work!
- Thread starter
- #819
Ignorance abounds! What’s a doubler?
On my other body I have a 4x4” tubing welded on for the rocker/slider. This time I am going to a 2x4 that is 14gauge. I saw some killa sliders on White Knuckle that bolt to the frame. I think I might go that way.
On my other body I have a 4x4” tubing welded on for the rocker/slider. This time I am going to a 2x4 that is 14gauge. I saw some killa sliders on White Knuckle that bolt to the frame. I think I might go that way.
- Thread starter
- #820
I guess I am finally going to use these guys!! Yahooo
Bobm thank you for making these things. I feel blessed to have gotten a set and am thankful for your efforts and mad skill!
Bobm thank you for making these things. I feel blessed to have gotten a set and am thankful for your efforts and mad skill!
