Agree. Same diff that I currently run, minus the c-clips. I even have an extra FJ62 diff sitting the garage ready for an ARB.
Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo
- Thread starter Bad Mojo
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Agree. Same diff that I currently run, minus the c-clips. I even have an extra FJ62 diff sitting the garage ready for an ARB.
- Thread starter
- #382
On the whole parking brake issue. I'm waiting to hear about TSM more. At some point in the future I could see getting a rear 70 FF with disk.
However, non of that matters if I don't have a place for the 1HZ to go. Guy and I pulled my entire drivetrain today.
On the do list next is, cut off old steering box mount, weld up power steering mount, and then engine mounts. After that drop in 1HZ and pull the body so I can continue work on the frame and start working some much needed sheet metal. (quarters, and rear sill, nothing too bad)
However, non of that matters if I don't have a place for the 1HZ to go. Guy and I pulled my entire drivetrain today.
On the do list next is, cut off old steering box mount, weld up power steering mount, and then engine mounts. After that drop in 1HZ and pull the body so I can continue work on the frame and start working some much needed sheet metal. (quarters, and rear sill, nothing too bad)
Here is an idea for a parking brake...not sure what I think about
Post #7...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/465607-split-case-vacuum-t-c.html
Post #7...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/465607-split-case-vacuum-t-c.html
- Thread starter
- #385
Worked on the FJ60 power steering tonight and it looks like I have found a bolt up solution for everything. 
I have a intermediate shaft from a gen 2 4runner. At the bottom of that shaft has a u-joint that will bolt up to the bottom of the FJ40 column. The other end of the u-joint bolts up a FJ60 intermediate shaft, which connects into the box with another u-joint.
I will confirm everything tomorrow night, but it looks promising.
I have a intermediate shaft from a gen 2 4runner. At the bottom of that shaft has a u-joint that will bolt up to the bottom of the FJ40 column. The other end of the u-joint bolts up a FJ60 intermediate shaft, which connects into the box with another u-joint. I will confirm everything tomorrow night, but it looks promising.
alia176
SILVER Star
You have a misconception about line locks. Probably not needed for your application but they work far better than any mechanical parking brakes IMHO. Brake line bursting shouldn't happen. Do they happen when you step on the brakes? No. So, they shouldn't burst when you apply the line lock. Basically, you step on the brakes, pull the line lock lever and you're done. All four wheels are locked. Period. Nothing to adjust, no parking brake shoes to wear out or freeze up, etc.
Again, probably not what you need but this is a good fall back position for you just in case. Since you have a simple braking system, it'd be very easy to install. Some line locks come with a lockable lever so they act as a theft deterrent device as well.
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
But how long are you generally pressing on your service brakes? You apply pressure for relatively short periods of time, whereas a line lock leaves the pressure on the entire time it is engaged. It still shouldn't burst a line, but a little leak inside the slave cylinder will cause the pressure to bleed off eventually.
I know that's the reason I want more than a line-lock for the 45. I do know that on airplanes, the parking brake is generally hydraulic (ours applies 3,000psi to the brakes), and from being applied all night long, and anytime the plane is parked that they weep and lose pressure. Two or three days parked on a remote pad and the brakes won't be on at all.
Dan
Parking Brake Option
here's a possibility...
here's a possibility...
LOL. nice. it would be an upgrade since i'm pretty sure those only came standard equipment on landyacht cadillacs?
who's got the Flintstones pic of a mannequin leg pushed onto the ground!
is that the 2F thingy I've been hearing about?
I like it. Keep a 2F shortblock in your truck with a chain through one of the cylinders and the other end bolted to the rig. Need to hold in place? Just toss out block to a firm spot and you ain't goin' nowhere.
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- #392
Well I do have that 2F just sitting there, just have it tuck and roll out the back. 
While thinking on this project and my axles to be more specific I was thinking a little armor on them wouldn't be a horrible idea. I know I had to do some grinding just to drain my front diff. Thoughts?
While thinking on this project and my axles to be more specific I was thinking a little armor on them wouldn't be a horrible idea. I know I had to do some grinding just to drain my front diff. Thoughts?
Well I do have that 2F just sitting there, just have it tuck and roll out the back.
While thinking on this project and my axles to be more specific I was thinking a little armor on them wouldn't be a horrible idea. I know I had to do some grinding just to drain my front diff. Thoughts?
i would say sky is the limit. my 80 series stock just has the ring welded to the housing around the drain plug. i put in the allen key head plugs and have messed up that ring some on some rocks, but the plug is unscathed and easy to take out still. i sure you could dream up other skids and such to weld on before you powdercoat the whole housing
alia176
SILVER Star
For the front of the diff housing, a 8" or 10" fire hydrant pipe cap welded on would be a good skid plate. They're typically about 1/4" thick and strong as all get out. There should be some threads about this mod in the 80 section.
If you have the axle out and easy to weld then weld on a ring around the drain plug like the 80's come with but make it a deeper one, about 5/16" high should be just about the right amount of overkill.
If you have the axle out and easy to weld then weld on a ring around the drain plug like the 80's come with but make it a deeper one, about 5/16" high should be just about the right amount of overkill.
- Thread starter
- #395
i would say sky is the limit. my 80 series stock just has the ring welded to the housing around the drain plug. i put in the allen key head plugs and have messed up that ring some on some rocks, but the plug is unscathed and easy to take out still. i sure you could dream up other skids and such to weld on before you powdercoat the whole housing
Thanks for the information. I found this example that I like a lot and if I weld up the ring and then have it taper down from there I think my axles should be safe from anything I get them into.
Also for the people running OBA where is your regulator sitting and why? I am thinking my sliders will be my tanks, but have them plumbed independent of each other just in case one of them has a failure.
my OBA is dual mv50's in the aux batt tray for right now. i am running DOT air brake hose for all my lines, 1/4" to sliders and pumps, 3/8" to couplers. i use my sliders for small tanks (i get 3.5ish gal if i recall). i have put a coupler on the front and rear bumper and override all electrics (global on/off) with a switch in the dash. the air manifold is mounted to the back of that box. i have a check valve between each compressor and the manifold. the manifold has my pressure switch and blowoff valve along with all individual component connections (ie 6 individual lines). i can remove and plug any one of the lines if i have problems) i do not run a regulator, the pressure switch is 70-100psi and my BOV is 125psi, i could have run lower BOV but i thought i was going to get a diff pressure switch. all of this will stay intact when i move to York someday (i now have one sitting in the garage). just move the power wires to the clutch and the pressure lines to the output (and i'll get to remove relays etc).
hth
- Thread starter
- #397
That does help, thanks. I am figuring out the system that will work the best for me. I do like that you can close out part of the system. Also thinking about trying to cram at least one tank underneath because my sliders will not hold nearly as much air as 80's sliders, plus the design of those keeps changing. I might be able to stick one in my rear bumper.
Where did you pick up your parts?
Check your volume for your OBA compared to your tires because after that's gone you're back to whatever your compressor can put out. A lot of people think they can get a lot more than what's actually in there - you need some really high pressure to get a lot of air, more than most air compressors will put out.
this is very true. my air bottles(about 3 gallons) fill up 3 of my tires and only part of the 4th starting at 2000psi.
i got the compressors on amazon or 4wp... all fittings and hose was mcmastercarr, couplers were homedepot. electrics were pepboys or vatozone or something local.
this is very true. the tank/sliders for mine are really just a little bit of accumulation for dust nozzle for blowing out aircleaners etc (and it is just enough).. airing up, i blow the tanks before the first tire is full and its just compressors from then on, but with the 2, its more than tolerable. i also just pulled a york from pick and pull and will get that in there someday
. my system is only for airing up convenience, you could never run tools or anything for sure. and if you expect to never touch your compressor when airing up, well then you should buy co2 tank and forget compressors... HPA is not the way to go.i have no plans to up the storage size until i get bored or upgrade the compressor.
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