Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo

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How about this... get an 80 series axle cut the ends off and attach them to your axle > full floater plus discs and parking brake. Get some longfields cut and some 80 series drive flanges and you in business! Only down side is the custom length axle but it would probably the only set you would need.

Here's a crazy thought: why not just install front and rear 80 axle housings? They're wide but can't the fenders be modified to accommodate the extra width? Maybe this is a dumb suggestion! This would allow parking brake, full floaters, giant birfs, etc. You shouldn't have to worry about running big tires and rubbing the leaf springs up front, I don't think.
 
Here's a crazy thought: why not just install front and rear 80 axle housings? They're wide but can't the fenders be modified to accommodate the extra width? Maybe this is a dumb suggestion! This would allow parking brake, full floaters, giant birfs, etc. You shouldn't have to worry about running big tires and rubbing the leaf springs up front, I don't think.

Exactly what I told your young friend as well.

:)
 
I seem to recall there are issues with the way the 60-series axles center on the FJ40 frame. I suspect the 80-series will also have centering issues. The issue is mounting the spring perch on the pumpkin side.
 
If I went to 80 axles first off they would have to be shortened, which doesn't worry me too too much. I don't want this to look horrible and not too far from stock. If I went with 80 series axles I might as well go with 80 series suspension.

I like the idea, but sh!t this project might of just gone to a full up custom job. A turbo 1HZ powered forty on shortened 80 series axles and suspension would be sweet! I got to think that one over. I like it, but it would be crazy awesome.

I would also have to convert the front axle to part time, no biggy. Cut down the axles and reweld them, move around the suspension parts on the housings and weld on new suspension parts to my frame. Or just keep my leaf spring suspension, but I might as well go all the way!

And the most important question is do I go locked or unlocked axles.

I would also like to point out I may still be able to get a parking brake off the transfer case. Making a pretty big jump, but I like it more and more I think about it.
 
If I went with 80 series axles I might as well go with 80 series suspension.

I like the idea, but sh!t this project might of just gone to a full up custom job. A turbo 1HZ powered forty on shortened 80 series axles and suspension would be sweet! I got to think that one over. I like it, but it would be crazy awesome.

And the most important question is do I go locked or unlocked axles.

DING DING DING. locked 80 axles and coils it is... why frankenstein anything else. you could actually stand to ride your badass rig on something besides pavement!! :lol::lol::cool::flipoff2:
 
If I went to 80 axles first off they would have to be shortened, which doesn't worry me too too much. I don't want this to look horrible and not too far from stock. If I went with 80 series axles I might as well go with 80 series suspension.

I like the idea, but sh!t this project might of just gone to a full up custom job. A turbo 1HZ powered forty on shortened 80 series axles and suspension would be sweet! I got to think that one over. I like it, but it would be crazy awesome.

I would also have to convert the front axle to part time, no biggy. Cut down the axles and reweld them, move around the suspension parts on the housings and weld on new suspension parts to my frame. Or just keep my leaf spring suspension, but I might as well go all the way!

And the most important question is do I go locked or unlocked axles.

I would also like to point out I may still be able to get a parking brake off the transfer case. Making a pretty big jump, but I like it more and more I think about it.



I think you can make it *look* decent by going with the full width axles from the 80. I'm not suggesting that you slap on a set of 37" x 15" tires on the 40 but a set of skinny 33x10.50 should complement the look. Last weekend I saw my fair share of full width Dana 60x and Corp 14s but those rigs were big time crawlers.

One thing is for sure, you're 40 on 80 axles will be very stable on side hills and off camber situations.

I'd definitely not go the coil spring route. That's a whole diff animal to contend with.

I'm not sure if you're still in the realm of "not too far from stock" mentality. The stuff that is being done to the 40 may still be Toyota but they're far from stock. :flipoff2:
 
this is how vehicle projects go. mine started as a simple swap to a V-8. :lol:
 
Sounds like you've crossed over to the Dark Side!
 
this is how vehicle projects go. mine started as a simple swap to a V-8. :lol:

Very true it started with me not wanting to rebuild a carb and wanting better MPG.

Sounds like you've crossed over to the Dark Side!
I'm debating it. I like Jared's idea of swapping over a rear 80s parts over to my rear axle. Its a nice middle ground and I don't have to deal with the suspension. Or cut down an 80, but I can order all the 80 parts in from work and not have to worry about stripping down an 80 axle. But if I am doing it I could do the same thing for the FJ Cruiser and not have to worry about an 80 series rear full float.

Is full float really worth it?
 
Your wheel won't come flying off if you break an axle. I think it would be wise to keep pursuing the T-case brake. If its not up to your standard sell it and go another route. You may be pleasantly surprised with it and its a whole lot less invasive! My guess is that you want to drive this thing before you graduate college!
 
I would go the extra mile for a full float.

Personally, while the 80 series axles might be too wide, I would try to source 7x series axles. They are full float rear with drum, set up for leaf springs.

They can be found.

Or, ordered.

:lol:

;)
 
Your wheel won't come flying off if you break an axle. I think it would be wise to keep pursuing the T-case brake. If its not up to your standard sell it and go another route. You may be pleasantly surprised with it and its a whole lot less invasive! My guess is that you want to drive this thing before you graduate college!

I would love to be driving this thing by the end of of school. I want to keep working on the T-Case brake it seems to be the logical and cost effective, and I can run rear disk.

I would go the extra mile for a full float.

Personally, while the 80 series axles might be too wide, I would try to source 7x series axles. They are full float rear with drum, set up for leaf springs.

They can be found.

Or, ordered.

:lol:

;)

You just want to say you have ordered a rear full float 70 series axle. If I order one I would like to order the parts to make it a 6 lug disk. If thats an option. It is a viable option finding one, seeing that more 70 series are getting parted out in Canada, but those are drum brakes, which wouldn't be the worse thing, but I want disk. (For the right price I'm sure I could run drum.) Maybe we can track down the cost of a new 70 series this week.
 
not saying 70 series isn't best. but wouldn't 80 series rear get you disc and a rear drum cable ebrake? parking brake on transfer case just seems like more stuff to figure out and find room for?
 
not saying 70 series isn't best. but wouldn't 80 series rear get you disc and a rear drum cable ebrake? parking brake on transfer case just seems like more stuff to figure out and find room for?

70 series also uses the drum inside the disc.

Paul, I'm looking for my calculations on the caliper forces needed for the T-case brake. IIRC is was roughly 2200 lbs clamping force for a truck with 4.11s and 33s. All of the kits I've seen (TSM, All Pro, Woods, MAF...) use a 1600lb caliper. That should be good to roughly a 20 degree slope. I was spacing it to hold the truck on a 30 degree slope.

I'm hoping to find time this week to go visit TSM (they are in the South Denver area) to chat about it.

Likely, I'll just go with the TSM setup, because it sounds like it's roughly on par with the stock E-brake.

Also, I should be getting in on Monday the 16th, and kicking around the shop the rest of next week. We can swap starters then, and stuff.

Dan
 
70 series also uses the drum inside the disc.

Paul, I'm looking for my calculations on the caliper forces needed for the T-case brake. IIRC is was roughly 2200 lbs clamping force for a truck with 4.11s and 33s. All of the kits I've seen (TSM, All Pro, Woods, MAF...) use a 1600lb caliper. That should be good to roughly a 20 degree slope. I was spacing it to hold the truck on a 30 degree slope.

I'm hoping to find time this week to go visit TSM (they are in the South Denver area) to chat about it.

Likely, I'll just go with the TSM setup, because it sounds like it's roughly on par with the stock E-brake.

Also, I should be getting in on Monday the 16th, and kicking around the shop the rest of next week. We can swap starters then, and stuff.

Dan

Sounds good Dan. I am looking forward to what TSM has to say. I'll make sure to keep part of my week open.

I also found a 70 series rear FF with a LSD in it right across the Canadian border, so thats an option, but still thinking off the transfer case. Thats what is currently on the truck right now just in drum form.

I could see running the 70 rear end if it looks like my rear driveshaft is getting too short, but I'm not too concerned. Plus its a chunk of change to get that axle by the time I shipped or went to get it. Potential later upgrade?
 
I also found a 70 series rear FF with a LSD in it right across the Canadian border, so thats an option, but still thinking off the transfer case.

Dang. If I wasn't fixing a bunch of sheet metal I'd be taking time off for a trip to Canada for an axle.
 

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