Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo (3 Viewers)

[Bad Mojo]

Quick update, I have been parting out my 2F and it looks like piranhas has gotten at it. I just have the block and head left, so I might just use that as my parking brake, unless someone wants it.

I also picked up a Warn 8274. That lead me into designing a new front bumper. Top and Front views.

Also the standard tracking down of parts and cleaning of parts.

 

[marcfj60]

The tube on the bottom looks like a cow catcher.

 

[sl33p3]

The tube on the bottom looks like a cow catcher.

i think he was just trying to work a smiley face into it... with some style.

 

[alia176]

I like the design but not sold on the lower tube section. I see no functional reason for it unless I'm missing something. I think you'd want every bit of approach angle as you can muster and this tube will take away about 4" of that precious angle.

 

[Bad Mojo]

While designing this bumper I looked at a couple other bumper designs, mostly the old ARB style and then a couple customs. The point of the lower tube section is to protect the shackles. I don't want to take away from approach angle, and I can always bring up that tubing or get ride of it completely. I also lined up where my D-Rings line up to be inline with with my frame. My light tabs are set back off the main channel to give them more protection. I may take away the fairlead skid if I keep the tube underneath it, because that should protect it if it sticks out enough. The bumper is 46" or 48" wide, which keeps it out of the way of my tires like my old bumper.

Bumpers I looked at.

Old School ARB

Shackle Protection Bumper

Fairlead Protection

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Why so concerned about protecting the shackles? What's the worst that happens if you hit them?

You can carry a spare shackle or two in your glovebox if you're really concerned about it. Want some stock ones? I think I've got a box of about 15 lying around...

You'll get just as hung up if you catch your shackle on something as you would with getting it caught up on the shackle protection. Only difference is that the shackle itself will have more clearance and is easier to replace when you get home.

Same goes for protecting the fairlead, but moreso. They aren't all that expensive, and the fairlead getting damaged won't leave you stranded.

That's just my 0.02.

Dan

 

[subzali]

Hey Dan, I'll take some stock shackles off your hands!

x2 on Dan's comment though. Hitting shackles is

Also, I know you didn't ask my opinion but since your build is interesting to me you're getting it anyway - why so concerned about double/triple protection on your on-board air system? So what if it leaks? It's not going to keep you from getting home or somewhere where it can be fixed.

Have you seen this Paul? I would forget 80 series or any other custom axle and go this direction:
70 series axles with diff locks FS - Rising Sun Member Forums

Barry (rutbeer) took his drum 70 series axles for his own truck ('78 FJ40 w/13B-T, H55F, split case) and swapped discs on. Not sure how or what but you could ask him, if you can't find another solution to your parking brake/rear disc brake dilemma. By the way, go lockers for sure. No question. Toyota should have had them in FJ40s while they were still building them.

Dan can pick it up for you and bring it down when he goes down to finish his dad's 40!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Hey Dan, I'll take some stock shackles off your hands!

Seriously, how many you want?

Dan can pick it up for you and bring it down when he goes down to finish his dad's 40!

Well, I can definitely transport them south...

I fly down to finish Dad's 40. That way when it runs I can drive it back to CO and not have to leave a vehicle here. In fact.... I'm in NM tonight to work on it tomorrow (yeah, one whole day!) in preparation for my big stretch of days off that start next week. One way or another, there will be progress on that 40...

I did manage to get stuff done in Idaho Springs, drive to the airport, take a test, fly to ABQ, chat with my mother for a few hours, cut the fugly bumper off of Dad's 60, clean it up and paint the front frame horns, and install Dad's new ARB bumper on his 60.... Tomorrow I'll actually do something useful.

Dan

 

[subzali]

Seriously, how many you want?

4 please!

... cut the fugly bumper off of Dad's 60, clean it up and paint the front frame horns, and install Dad's new ARB bumper on his 60.... Tomorrow I'll actually do something useful.

Dan

pics!

sorry Paul, end hijack.

 

[Bad Mojo]

4
sorry Paul, end hijack.

No worries, at least we are still talking about cruisers, which is better than some of the detours this thread has taken.

I did see those 70 series axles, and it would be sick to have those axles, but I think I will only do a rear as of right now. When I do lockers I will go with ARBs, which will be a future mod after my drivetrain is in.

I DON'T WANT A ARB VS. E-LOCKER DEBATE! I can't afford those locked 70 series right now and I like ARBs over the E-Locker, but I will most likely use an E-locker switch.

On the front bumper debate it looks like everyone agrees don't worry about the shackles. Are there suggestions on what lights to run? I will also be running Roundeyes. Lastly, can someone explain why forty bumpers have loops? I can see for mounting lights, but they all seem too small to protect the vehicle, minus the ones out of OZ.

 

[subzali]

I just brought up the 70 series axles as an alternative to a custom-width 80 series axle or custom-brake disc/e-brake drum setup that was discussed a couple pages back. These are all ready to go, and solve your rear disc brake, axle-mounted emergency brake requirement, width, and locker problems all at once

Roundeyes are pretty much enough for me, and probably will be even more so once I do the ARB headlight harness upgrade available from Cruiser Outfitters.

The hoop on my bumper:

I'd like to think it would help if I hit a deer (I've hit 2 so far driving other vehicles and am kinda paranoid), protects my winch, I like the bumper design, but the one big drawback is that it's almost impossible to hi-lift off the front bumper because the hoop sticks pretty far forward. Still have to figure that one out. Okay, if I were to do it again I probably would just go with this: Bumpers HFS FJ40

or this if it came with shackle mounts: MAF 4+Plus Capped Winch Bumper 40 Series

 

[Bad Mojo]

I am currently cleaning my splitcase and was thinking this might be a good time if possible to do a speedo correction. Is this possible? It is the later model splitcase with the 38mm bearing.

Also waiting on news of a rear axle with disk and a bell housing.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I am currently cleaning my splitcase and was thinking this might be a good time if possible to do a speedo correction. Is this possible? It is the later model splitcase with the 38mm bearing.

I asked Mark Algazy about this a while ago, and he said he didn't know of one. I would love to find out otherwise. It would almost make me willing to put in an aftermarket gauge cluster just so I could make the speedo read correctly, almost.

Dan

 

[jericho]

I am currently cleaning my splitcase and was thinking this might be a good time if possible to do a speedo correction. Is this possible? It is the later model splitcase with the 38mm bearing.

Also waiting on news of a rear axle with disk and a bell housing.

Yes it can be corrected. You may need to have a ratio adapter instead of replacing gears. Call up a speedometer shop.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Yes it can be corrected. You may need to have a ratio adapter instead of replacing gears. Call up a speedometer shop.

Thanks for the information.

I got confirmation of my bellhousing getting shipped from OZ. One more step to finishing this project.

 

[Bad Mojo]

On the speedo item there is also this little device. Post #126
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/413612-40th-birthday-present-7.html#post6839849

Also, after looking at the FJ55 column for FJ60 power steering. I am came to the conclusion that I can either use it or, just get my 40 column splined to accept the 60 series intermediate shaft.

 

[subzali]

Paul, unless you're planning on custom seat mods to reset the ergonomics, I would recommend cutting the rag joint off of your 40 column and either splining it like you said (which I've never heard of anyone doing yet), or grinding it into a "double-D" shape to fit a Borgeson joint. This is how Iron Pig sets up their FJ60 power steering kits, and the Borgeson shaft has smaller u-joints and you can get it custom-built to length and make it not only collapsible but also with a dedicated slip-joint. I'm not entirely happy with the FJ60 intermediate shaft because even though it slips, it's not really a dedicated slip joint. Also, the u-joints are unnecessarily huge compared to the Borgeson. I'm definitely going this way on my next iteration of my power steering setup.

The FJ55 column is 1 1/2" longer or so, and I can definitely feel it sticking up in my face, and because it's angled, it sits up higher, so I can't rest my arms on my legs like I used to and on long road trips my hands and arms are tired from having to hold themselves up. Just some experiences from my setup. I wouldn't do an FJ55 column again, because there's other problems like getting the keyswitch off; I had to pay $50 to have it retumbled to my key profile, and I could have used that $50 towards a Borgeson shaft. Luckily I got the FJ55 column for free, but now I have to find an FJ40 column again to go back. They're a little easier to find though.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Paul, unless you're planning on custom seat mods to reset the ergonomics, I would recommend cutting the rag joint off of your 40 column and either splining it like you said (which I've never heard of anyone doing yet), or grinding it into a "double-D" shape to fit a Borgeson joint. This is how Iron Pig sets up their FJ60 power steering kits, and the Borgeson shaft has smaller u-joints and you can get it custom-built to length and make it not only collapsible but also with a dedicated slip-joint. I'm not entirely happy with the FJ60 intermediate shaft because even though it slips, it's not really a dedicated slip joint. Also, the u-joints are unnecessarily huge compared to the Borgeson. I'm definitely going this way on my next iteration of my power steering setup.

The FJ55 column is 1 1/2" longer or so, and I can definitely feel it sticking up in my face, and because it's angled, it sits up higher, so I can't rest my arms on my legs like I used to and on long road trips my hands and arms are tired from having to hold themselves up. Just some experiences from my setup. I wouldn't do an FJ55 column again, because there's other problems like getting the keyswitch off; I had to pay $50 to have it retumbled to my key profile, and I could have used that $50 towards a Borgeson shaft. Luckily I got the FJ55 column for free, but now I have to find an FJ40 column again to go back. They're a little easier to find though.

Thanks for the information.

I think I will end up going the borgeson route for a couple reasons. 1) It has been done before. 2) It has the smaller joints. 3) A better intermediate shaft 4) Its close to bolt in 5) Keeps stock column

Time for a tape measuring and to figure out what joints needed.

 

[Cruisergreg]

I'm not entirely happy with the FJ60 intermediate shaft because even though it slips, it's not really a dedicated slip joint. Also, the u-joints are unnecessarily huge compared to the Borgeson.

Just as a point of clarity, there are two different FJ60 internediate shaft versions. There is the early version (thru 1986) which had less slip travel and smaller spines than the later version which had about 6 inches of slip and very large splines.

 

[Bad Mojo]

I am debating between a smooth bore joint or a DD joint from the steering column. From there I will go into a 24" telescoping steering shaft then to a 3/4" DD x 11/16" x36 joint. It looks like a pretty clean step up.

Another item I have been putting some thought into is my roll cage. I am thinking about ordering in different parts from Metal Tech and making a cage similar to this one.