Builds POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise

[hairy_apple]

Wow.. just read though this whole thing and I am very impressed. What a great looking pig!

 

[PabloCruise]

Wow.. just read though this whole thing and I am very impressed. What a great looking pig!

Thanks Apple! Like the great Led Zeppelin song, it has been a mix of good times and bad times, for sure.

 

[PabloCruise]

Ah, I never knew the earlier 40s and 55s ran a throttle cable...

From SOR, it looks like 1968 to 9/72 ran one style pedal:

And then 9/72 to 9/73 was a different cable gas pedal:

That narrows it down a little. It is not a 62 pedal, and not the one that would have been on my 01/74 build date Pig.

Thanks!

After a lot of help in the 40 and 60 section, I am pretty sure that the folks that did the original 3FE swap in the first Pig fabbed a pedal w/ the Pig lower and 3FE upper:

It just sits too high off the floor for comfort, but has a good throw. I got a 3FE pedal, so I will try out some ideas...

 

[PabloCruise]

Now that it is October, of course my thoughts turn to air conditioning!

I just got a 3FE AC compressor bracket and can't wait to see if it will bolt up to my year 3FE (I think it is from a 1988 62).

I am a little nervous! Stay tuned to see if I can fit AC in 3FE FJ55!

 

[PabloCruise]

The AC compressor bracket fits my engine mount and PS pump mount.

I tried to remove a bunch of the schmegma coating the bracket and finally gave up. I think I'll find a parts cleaner.

But it fits! 2nd pic shows the fit at PS pump, 3rd pic shows fit at engine mount. This is going to be so close to everything, I am going to have to go back and clean up a few things in the area. Most notably my fuel filter mounting.

 

[PabloCruise]

As you an see, under the hood is not nearly as shiny...

 

[PabloCruise]

And of course, wouldn't you know it, I have 3 different AC compressors and none of them are for 3FE...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

the hardest part I see, is the frame clearance at the ac clutch...
aside from that, IIRC, there is a water pump lower hose pipe that goes almost all the way from the radiator to the water pump, with just short rubber hoses that are more like couplers on the pump inlet and radiator outlet. it would prevent wear from engine vibes and the ac bracket to lower radiator line. I think both the 62 and 80 have the long pipe, altho the 62 is most likely the one you want for heater bypass line orientation. I too have a small collection of ac pumps that aren't right...

 

[PabloCruise]

the hardest part I see, is the frame clearance at the ac clutch...
aside from that, IIRC, there is a water pump lower hose pipe that goes almost all the way from the radiator to the water pump, with just short rubber hoses that are more like couplers on the pump inlet and radiator outlet. it would prevent wear from engine vibes and the ac bracket to lower radiator line. I think both the 62 and 80 have the long pipe, altho the 62 is most likely the one you want for heater bypass line orientation. I too have a small collection of ac pumps that aren't right...

Man, I wish I had a reference '88 62 to look at about every other day!

Any ideas how the tensioner is supposed to look on the 62 3FE AC compressor mount? I may just post up on my thread in the 60 section - thanks for helping there too!

Thanks for the tips...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

HA; you'd need to keep the grill and radiator out to see anything you need to get a good look at.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

okay I lied...the fj 60 and 62 both had longer pipes, but of course, you'll need the fj62 pipe, and it still has a bend in its lowest hose section that goes to the radiator, but a short piece of hose at the top. I opted to retain the older crustier fj62 pipe over the newer 80 series longer hose length connections when I fixed my wifes 62 for this very reason- to avoid abrasion at that hose. and there is plenty of room for either the 80 or 62 series ac and associated tensioners in the 55. it was the fj 60 compressor that would require cutting of the fender well...nothing but air in the way of a fj62 compressor set-up...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

maybe when one uses the fj80 mounting, the longer rubber hoses don't rub...I'll bet that was what the decision was at the time, but it was superseded by my earlier decision to go with the fj62 mounts and accessories...the biggest differences between the 80 and 62 3fe were the right side accessories, hose routing, a couple connector types and smog pump plumbing. and the bigger injectors

 

[PabloCruise]

Good news you think the 3FE AC compressor fits well in the 55. I forget, does the Daily Bacon have 3FE in it?

I wonder if that 62 metal lower radiator pipe will line up w/ 55 rad?

Thanks for the help!

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

naw, I wish...all I had to rebuild was a crappy old 2F



the 62 pipe should not have an alignment issue- you can rotate them a bit in either direction, and the 62 is going to line up just as the fj60(but the take-off for the heater is different between the 60 and 62- you need the 62; clear as mud?), and I run fj60 stuff in the pig-up with an fj55 radiator.

 

[PabloCruise]

At the very least use a “Crimp Solder Seal Butt Connector” for your exterior connections.

Like cruiserbrett said solder and shrink tube would be the best choice if your soldering skills are good. If your soldering skills are lacking then the common “Crimp Solder Seal Butt Connector” works well. I would cut the wires back from your old splice connector to get back to good wire and reconnect with one of the two methods above.

So yes you are correct!

I never heard more arguments over which is better crimp or solder, in the different forums, but for sure anything is better than those damn splice connectors. Seems like every trailer company uses them and in six months, you're running down problems. Personally, I like to solder them and then use the shrink tubing.

Good luck with it and with electrical stuff, seems like there is always some problem.

I got down under Little Miss Javelina yesterday and got to work. I took out the old scotch-lock/vampire splice connectors and replaced w/ the crimp & solder + heat shrink.

Interesting note: my '78 FSM for 40/55 had the opposite wire colors for turn signals. They are green w/ yellow and green w/ black. I tested the wires vs. what was listed and found the FSM was off. I don't know if they changed wire colors from '74 to '78.

 

[PabloCruise]

Concur! Don't do those splice connectors! If you need to tap for a tail light harness, use solder and heat shrink. luckily the pigs has red/red tail/stop(turn) so no trailer converter needed for 99% of us trailer lights.

Can you 'splain this slow to me so I can understand?

I am wiring up a 7-contact round plug in the bumper and then will go to the flat 4-wire plug on the pop-up.

The wiring for the 7-contact identified contacts as "L turn & Brake" & "R turn & Brake". This gives me pause, b/c it seems like something will not be correct if I wire turn wires and brake wires to the same terminal. But the trailer does need brake lights...

I ran out of daylight before I could get all the wires at the connector wired. Frustrating, but maybe just as well?

 

[PabloCruise]

Concur! Don't do those splice connectors! If you need to tap for a tail light harness, use solder and heat shrink. luckily the pigs has red/red tail/stop(turn) so no trailer converter needed for 99% of us trailer lights.

Are you saying that our turn signal wires carry the brake light signal as well?

That would make life easier...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

yes, brake and/or turn...

 

[PabloCruise]

yes, brake and/or turn...

Sweet! Thanks Mate...

 

[J Mack]

Do you plan on using trailer brakes?