Builds POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise (1 Viewer)

[bobm]

Stickers I believe are Inspection stickers from factory. Bracket could be grab bar for removing seat bottom, but I believe its just a Stiffener bracket to keep seat from bowing and sheet-metal from cracking.

Thanks Bob.

 

[PabloCruise]

I want to wire the Pig for trailer wiring so we can get the little pop-up camper out before the weather gets too cold.

I had gotten some wiring accessories from @Coolerman and was all ready to splice into the wiring at the tail lights. When I pulled the tail lights, there were no bullet connectors to splice into, kind of...

First off, I thought the turn signals for the 55s had green w/ yellow and green w/ black wiring? Both bulbs had green & green w white running to them. Green w/ white is for brake lights.

I thought that was odd, so I checked my turn signals, and it turns out that when I use my turn signals, both lights in the housing light up. Weird. Maybe that is why there is no divider inside the housing for the lens, and why US Pigs got all red tail light lenses?

I have two main questions here:
1) Does anyone know what this empty, unused bullet connector is for? I was running out of time and only checked the driver side tail light housing. Did not have time to pull a multi-meter and see if/when this gets hot.

2) Someone already spliced into the harness back at the crossmember w/ those cheap little line splicers that I do not like. Given that those are already there, would my best course of action be to take the old ones off and put new ones on in the same position with my new, correctly color-coded wire running to the barrel connector?

What would y'all do?

Thanks!

 

[PabloCruise]

I was thinking about the @jmack Target Carrier, and the throttle pedal he was using.

My use of the FJ-62 throttle pedal definitely has room for improvement. I think it sits too high up?

I was thinking I could start by bending this pedal down, adding the bend below the pivot. I was also wondering about shortening the assembly.

What do you all think?

View attachment 939491 View attachment 939492

I took some pics of the stock throttle pedal location in my friend's '76 Piggy - it rides much lower. I think this would be much more comfortable on my knee:

 

[cruiserbrett]

I think the unused bullet is for one of the euro 5W(?) fog bulbs that go in some of the piggy taillight housings with the black rubber plug. As to whether it is going to be hot at any point is anyones guess. Likely there was only one LH drive rear wire harness, for simplicity's sake...

Both bulbs in the US taillamp assemblys are dual filament, same function. so the Amber lenses wont work properly IMO

 

[PabloCruise]

I think the unused bullet is for one of the euro 5W(?) fog bulbs that go in some of the piggy taillight housings with the black rubber plug. As to whether it is going to be hot at any point is anyones guess. Likely there was only one LH drive rear wire harness, for simplicity's sake...

Both bulbs in the US taillamp assemblys are dual filament, same function. so the Amber lenses wont work properly IMO

Seems like a goofy setup, but oh well.

Any opinions on going back to the splice connectors?

 

[J Mack]

Any opinions on going back to the splice connectors?

Don't do it!

 

[cruiserbrett]

Concur! Don't do those splice connectors! If you need to tap for a tail light harness, use solder and heat shrink. luckily the pigs has red/red tail/stop(turn) so no trailer converter needed for 99% of us trailer lights.

 

[PabloCruise]

So take the splice locks off and solder in the connection where they were?

Not sure what you mean by trailer converter?

 

[J Mack]

At the very least use a “Crimp Solder Seal Butt Connector” for your exterior connections.

 

[PabloCruise]

At the very least use a “Crimp Solder Seal Butt Connector” for your exterior connections.

Electrical is not 2nd nature to me, so I am spelling things out literally, just to make sure I am on the right track...

If you were me, you would remove the old splice connectors (one at a time), cut the factory wire where the connector was, strip a little bit of the factory wire, and then use the "crimp solder seal butt connector" to add additional wire for the trailer connections?

Thanks for listening my simplistic ponderings. Electrical is something I want to get right the first time...

 

[J Mack]

Like cruiserbrett said solder and shrink tube would be the best choice if your soldering skills are good. If your soldering skills are lacking then the common “Crimp Solder Seal Butt Connector” works well. I would cut the wires back from your old splice connector to get back to good wire and reconnect with one of the two methods above.

So yes you are correct!

 

[scrapdaddy]

I never heard more arguments over which is better crimp or solder, in the different forums, but for sure anything is better than those damn splice connectors. Seems like every trailer company uses them and in six months, you're running down problems. Personally, I like to solder them and then use the shrink tubing.

Good luck with it and with electrical stuff, seems like there is always some problem.

 

[PabloCruise]

Thanks all. I never tested the ends of the wires that were added on, but so far no problems w/ the factory wiring where the splice connectors were put in. Knock on wood!

I don't think the picture w/ the connectors conveys the logistics involved - the splices are in the harness where it runs between the crossmember and the tank. Not a lot of room for soldering, and not a lot of fun when you are lying on your back, dripping solder on your chest.

Yeah I know - time to go pick up some cheese to go with my whine...

 

[PabloCruise]

I never heard more arguments over which is better crimp or solder, in the different forums, but for sure anything is better than those damn splice connectors. Seems like every trailer company uses them and in six months, you're running down problems. Personally, I like to solder them and then use the shrink tubing.

Good luck with it and with electrical stuff, seems like there is always some problem.

If you want to see controversy, look up "torque specs with anti-seize". Oh Mylanta!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Pablo,

Question on your torsion bar... Did you grease it when installing it? Mine was so rusted, I had it powder coated and thinking of using Super Lube on it. It's synthetic and doesn't melt, etc. Opinions

 

[PabloCruise]

Pablo,

Question on your torsion bar... Did you grease it when installing it? Mine was so rusted, I had it powder coated and thinking of using Super Lube on it. It's synthetic and doesn't melt, etc. Opinions

I would Super Lube it when you put it together.

I did not lube mine and the fit was such that it could rotate in there just fine. If you look at the range of motion, the rod does not move much, but it does not sound like it would hurt anything since it won't melt out the bottom and look all nasty.

If nothing else it would be just a little extra corrosion protection!

 

[PabloCruise]

Man, was I glad to have that tailgate behind me. Ha! Get it? Tailgate - behind me? Okay, I thought it was funny.

Another item that felt like a MAJOR step in the Pig process was the installation of a brand new headliner! This was the time to do it, while all the glass is out. I got a headliner from SOR and hired some local talent to install. He does mostly hot rods. Right before this guy installed the headliner in the Pig, a street rod he had done the interior for was published in Hot Rod magazine. I thought I got a picture of the cover, but now I cannot find it. Oh well.

View attachment 875941 View attachment 875942 View attachment 875944

I got a request to see some pics of the sun visors. I had the same guy who did the headliner rebuild my visors.

Here they are!

 

[PabloCruise]

Can anyone tell me what application this throttle pedal would be from?

I think most of the 40 & 55 pedals were set up to hook to a linkage, not a cable.

I thought this one came from the same '88 62, and hooks to the 3FE cable, but in trying to purchase another 62 gas pedal to modify my set-up, that one looks quite different...

Any ideas?

 

[tucker74]

That's not a 62 pedal, it's much longer at the top (I couldn't make it work). That's either from an early 40 or more likely a webber pedal they sell to convert to their carbs

Tucker

 

[PabloCruise]

That's not a 62 pedal, it's much longer at the top (I couldn't make it work). That's either from an early 40 or more likely a webber pedal they sell to convert to their carbs

Tucker

Ah, I never knew the earlier 40s and 55s ran a throttle cable...

From SOR, it looks like 1968 to 9/72 ran one style pedal:

And then 9/72 to 9/73 was a different cable gas pedal:

That narrows it down a little. It is not a 62 pedal, and not the one that would have been on my 01/74 build date Pig.

Thanks!