Builds POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise (1 Viewer)

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Then I thought I would install the kick panels I got with my door panels.

At the same time I cut up the roof pipe pieces posted elsewhere to install some 4" speakers up front. I cut up the passenger side and all was well. It wasn't until I did a lot of cutting on the driver side that I realized I would interfere with the hood release! Argh! At that point I was out of patience and moved on. I can go back with the cut-off on the Dremel and clearance for the hood release.

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As simple as this one sounds, it was strangely rewarding to put the "Land Cruiser" badges on the fenders.
I cannot tell you how many people noticed the holes in the fenders and asked if I was going to put something on there. I never really worried about it, but finally put them on and they look good!

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I wish this badge looked as good, but it does not :-(

I was at the local Walgreens one day and saw some orange nail polish that I thought looked close to the orange color on our "4 Wheel Drive" badge for the tailgate. So I got a couple of colors and started working on one of my rattier looking 4 emblems.

My wife saw me working on the emblem and getting frustrated. She said the polish was old, and that was why it was clumping. Bummer. But the lady at Walgreens got a kick out of my project.

I guess I will strip this orange with some acetone and try again with fresher polish.

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Got it looking good, man! What's your thoughts on fixing that hood release problem?

I think I can remove the material that interferes with the movement of the hood release and be okay. The hood release has a relatively short throw. So I will bolt the roof vent jack/speaker mount back in place and mark things with a Sharpie. Then I'll drill some holes at each corner, then cut out a rectangle with the cut-off on the Dremel.

Not sure how that will affect speaker sound, but if you are driving your Pig, I don't think it will be an acoustic masterpiece experience anyway...

I have hacked on the DS speaker mount so many times I am thinking 2 things:
  1. When I am ready for "Final Placement", I may go get a new piece and transfer all my cuts in the hope of a little prettier piece.
  2. I am glad I do not pay myself by the hour!
 
I think I can remove the material that interferes with the movement of the hood release and be okay. The hood release has a relatively short throw. So I will bolt the roof vent jack/speaker mount back in place and mark things with a Sharpie. Then I'll drill some holes at each corner, then cut out a rectangle with the cut-off on the Dremel.

Not sure how that will affect speaker sound, but if you are driving your Pig, I don't think it will be an acoustic masterpiece experience anyway...

I have hacked on the DS speaker mount so many times I am thinking 2 things:
  1. When I am ready for "Final Placement", I may go get a new piece and transfer all my cuts in the hope of a little prettier piece.
  2. I am glad I do not pay myself by the hour!

And then I am thinking that I may be able to mount some 5x7 speakers on the D pillars in the rear with these:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_068RPOD9/RetroSound-RPOD9.html?tp=61890
 
At some point, someone replaced all the bolts holding the spare tire carrier up with standard fasteners (gee, thanks!) and snapped off the forward bolt holding up the tank on the passenger side.
Hoping if I apply liberal amounts of Kroil, I may be able to reach in with the vice grips and get it out...

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The day ended when I compared my tank to the one I hoped to use as a replacement.
My original has a longer fill tube, and is angled up a little. These must be from different years.
Close but no cigar! I am thinking I may want that extra length and angle on the fill if possible.
I was going to pull all the old vent and fill lines and see what I can find to replace them. Maybe the difference won't matter?
Wish me luck...

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Pablo,

I had the same reoccurring rust issue with my M37 tank. Sent it to Renu, no more problems. It's not a cheap fix, but if you want to keep your tank, food for thought. http://www.gastankrenu.com/how.htm

Thanks Ron, I see there is one dealer over in Utah. How long since you did your M37 tank?
I am sure after the cost of the actual service and shipping, a long range tank looks like a reasonable option if they were still being made.
 
6 or 7 years ago and still fine. I replaced all fuel lines and cleaned out the fuel pump, too.

Do they split the tank open to clean the rust out of the inside? They say the tank is blasted back to bare metal - not sure how they do that for the interior...
 

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