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- #301
Much appreciated, thank you. I really hope I can upload photos of the finished build soon.
Pistorman's 1970 FJ40 build
- Thread starter Pistorman
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Much appreciated, thank you. I really hope I can upload photos of the finished build soon.
- Thread starter
- #302
Here's a few more pictures, radiator is in, engine mounts situation resolved thanks to your responses.
- Thread starter
- #303
Here's a few more.
- Thread starter
- #304
I'm headed to the shop tomorrow, few weeks passed and the car is "done" alas the new TH carb is dripping fuel from the top... I wonder why that is. Is it because it has no return line? Floater not working?
- Thread starter
- #305
Car is finally in my home, it runs fine, just having some electrical issues not engine related, mainly erratic or no turn lights, stop lights, reverse light, hazard lights, etc. Hope to fix up soon.
Sounds like bad grounds. Check your ground cables and make sure that they are metal to metal. Since you had the rig resprayed, the grounds are probably not making contact with metal through the paint. Also, keep in mind that the turn signals ground through the nuts on the underside of the fender. I had an issue getting those to ground when I changed out the lights. Make sure the nuts on the underside are hitting good metal and are very tight.
- Thread starter
- #307
Thanks Pavie, mechanic grounded the battery onto the engine, nothing to the frame or body. Guess that can be a major source of problems. What do you think?
- Thread starter
- #309
I've been told time and time again, that unless it is a tractor or a generator engine, that the ground should always go to the frame not to the engine :/ of course, provided that there is a ground strap. Sad but many mechanics just ground it to the engine.
Coolerman
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OEM is grounded to BOTH the frame and engine. The negative battery cable should connect to the frame next to the starter (there is a bolt hole just for this ) then a jumper from that same bolt to one of the starter mounting bolts on the engne. This arrangement ensures the starter is getting the best ground possible since it is the single highest current draw in the truck. You should also make up some smaller braided jumper straps from the frame to the inner fenders since several things ground to the fenders like horns and side marker lights. Make them long enough to allow for body to frame flex. Sometimes you also have to make a jumper for the main body to the frame if you have a deep multi-coat paint job. You must either use a star washer capable of cutting into bare metal through the paint, or scrape the paint off to bare metal at all ground points. Ideally you would scrape to metal, attach the ground wire, then paint over it to keep it from corroding.
The harness has two main grounds that MUST be connected! One is under the passenger side seat and attaches to the frame and is the ground for the fuel gauge and the transfer case 4WD light.
The other more important harness ground is the one for the regulator under the hood. That is the ground for the headlights, heater, alternator/regulator circuit, VSV, Emissions computer, and wiper motor circuit.
All ground wires on the FJ40 are white with a black strip.
The harness has two main grounds that MUST be connected! One is under the passenger side seat and attaches to the frame and is the ground for the fuel gauge and the transfer case 4WD light.
The other more important harness ground is the one for the regulator under the hood. That is the ground for the headlights, heater, alternator/regulator circuit, VSV, Emissions computer, and wiper motor circuit.
All ground wires on the FJ40 are white with a black strip.
Last edited:
Coolerman said:
^^^^^
Should be a sticky!
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no wipers 
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Awesome job.
very very very nice
i like your restoration
ur 40 is Auto?
i like your restoration
ur 40 is Auto?
Looking good. Maybe coat the connections with the body with some dielectric grease or maybe liquid electrical tape?
Coolerman
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How is the wiring troubleshooting coming? Been traveling again...
Trollhole: That Liquid Tape stuff works pretty good for this purpose. It sticks well to a clean surface and seems to hold up long term.
I also use it to "restore" old rubber parts that don't need tight tolerances. Just dip the part in and let it dry. Fills small cracks and adds strength to a rotted piece. You can also paint it on with a small brush.
Trollhole: That Liquid Tape stuff works pretty good for this purpose. It sticks well to a clean surface and seems to hold up long term.
I also use it to "restore" old rubber parts that don't need tight tolerances. Just dip the part in and let it dry. Fills small cracks and adds strength to a rotted piece. You can also paint it on with a small brush.
- Thread starter
- #318
Sorry Marshall, Coolerman, I have also been busy traveling. I am scheduled to do some work in the car this weekend so I can get it in full running condition. Lots of things came about at the same time, job wise I have tons of, more international travel, and now I'm also moving to a new house. I'll report how things are coming on Monday.
Thanks!
Thanks!
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Updates?
how is it looking these days?
how is it looking these days?
Pistorman - you patience and attention to detail is to be applauded. Just beautiful.
