Builds Oman -> SoCal 1995 FZJ75 Troopy (2 Viewers)

[JuanJ]

Hello,

The charcoal canister you are looking for is 77740-60290. But chances are it is long discontinued.

It might be possible to use a newer part, 77740-60410.

The charcoal canister is placed on the front left side of the engine bay, next to the radiator and above the steering box.





Juan

 

[prwillard2]

Currently working through rust repairs/rust proofing the floor of the troopy, picture is of the MasterSeries Silver rust inhibitor. Next up will be sound deadening.

Looking for recommendations from the team regarding what type of sound deadening is recommended. A Damplifier butyl press on sheets VS a spray in sound deadner like the Spectrum. Planning to do pretty much the entire floor (both front and rear) and then the interior of doors, and sides of the back. Roof will end up being cut off so not planning to do that.

Spectrum™ Sound Deadening Spray Kits

Spectrum Spray Kits contain all materials needed to spray on your sound deadener. Perfect if your automotive needs sound dampening on a large surface area.

www.secondskinaudio.com

Damplifier Pro™ Sound Deadening Mat

Second Skin Damplifer Pro butyl rubber mats for car sound deadening are Second Skin Audio's industry leading sound deadening mat.

www.secondskinaudio.com

 

[Guyute]

Currently working through rust repairs/rust proofing the floor of the troopy, picture is of the MasterSeries Silver rust inhibitor. Next up will be sound deadening.

Looking for recommendations from the team regarding what type of sound deadening is recommended. A Damplifier butyl press on sheets VS a spray in sound deadner like the Spectrum. Planning to do pretty much the entire floor (both front and rear) and then the interior of doors, and sides of the back. Roof will end up being cut off so not planning to do that.

Haven't used their spray-on product so can't compare, but just used the Damplifier Pro on my front door innards and was happy with it. They usually have a blem sale once or twice a year plus the 7/4 sale and I think a Memorial Day one. Was able to grab several sheets during the last blem sale. They're fine. Nobody is going to see them. Worth signing up for their newsletter for heads-up if you have time.

Believe the Fit Garage guys use the SS spray on builds. Or they did on that blue troopy build. Knuckle tested it next to mine when I was there last year. Solid thud-thud.

 

[Tennessee Jed]

Clean. "Echo! Echo! Echo!"

A lot of people use Lizard Skin spray in which looks immensely easier than rolling rolling rolling deadener film into all those hills and valleys.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I used Damplifier Pro with Spectrum Sludge on top for the floors of my FZJ75 but I was trying to replicate the factory sound deadening and not necessarily going for maximum sound deadening. You can see a few photos starting on post #168: Builds - Car souq pickup - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/car-souq-pickup.1155733/page-9

It's not finished yet. I need to smooth it down and spray something like tintable Raptor liner on top of it in the factory color. Pretty sure that's the combination that @c2dfj45 uses on his builds.

I also used these products inside the doors and under the headliner. That info is in the same thread a page or two later.

 

[RHINO]

i used Kilmat for the doors/sides, and sprayed Raptor liner on the floor/wheel humps. i'm happy with it.

when it comes to dampening metal i really dont think theres a difference between stick on sheets vs spray on performance wise,,, i just think it comes down to preference of application and finished look. hence my use of sheet where its not seen and spray where it is. now, heat mitigation is a different story, and although the factory JUTE layers are working fine, if i find myself removing the engine for some reason i'll spray in a heat layer on the engine side of the firewal/footwell/hump.

 

[FJRanger]

Currently working through rust repairs/rust proofing the floor of the troopy, picture is of the MasterSeries Silver rust inhibitor. Next up will be sound deadening.

Looking for recommendations from the team regarding what type of sound deadening is recommended. A Damplifier butyl press on sheets VS a spray in sound deadner like the Spectrum. Planning to do pretty much the entire floor (both front and rear) and then the interior of doors, and sides of the back. Roof will end up being cut off so not planning to do that.

Spectrum™ Sound Deadening Spray Kits

Spectrum Spray Kits contain all materials needed to spray on your sound deadener. Perfect if your automotive needs sound dampening on a large surface area.

www.secondskinaudio.com

Damplifier Pro™ Sound Deadening Mat

Second Skin Damplifer Pro butyl rubber mats for car sound deadening are Second Skin Audio's industry leading sound deadening mat.

www.secondskinaudio.com

I've used both.

For the amount of surface area you're looking to cover the spray in may be easier. It'll require a bit more prep work. But spraying it on is much easier than rolling on the Damplifier. All that said both are great products. I'd get at one or two sheets of Damplifier for each door. You really don't need full coverage in them for these trucks and that one sheet will kill most of the vibrations. It's been years since I did our 80's floor and doors with the Damplifier Pro. It did wonders and made the old truck almost as silient the 200... kinda almost

 

[prwillard2]

I used Damplifier Pro with Spectrum Sludge on top for the floors of my FZJ75 but I was trying to replicate the factory sound deadening and not necessarily going for maximum sound deadening. You can see a few photos starting on post #168: Builds - Car souq pickup - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/car-souq-pickup.1155733/page-9

It's not finished yet. I need to smooth it down and spray something like tintable Raptor liner on top of it in the factory color. Pretty sure that's the combination that @c2dfj45 uses on his builds.

I also used these products inside the doors and under the headliner. That info is in the same thread a page or two later.

Thanks for the link! Mine won't look nearly as good as yours unfortunately. I give approximately zero ****s about how good this looks inside as I'm planning to cover it up, but want the sound and heat protection.

i used Kilmat for the doors/sides, and sprayed Raptor liner on the floor/wheel humps. i'm happy with it.

when it comes to dampening metal i really dont think theres a difference between stick on sheets vs spray on performance wise,,, i just think it comes down to preference of application and finished look. hence my use of sheet where its not seen and spray where it is. now, heat mitigation is a different story, and although the factory JUTE layers are working fine, if i find myself removing the engine for some reason i'll spray in a heat layer on the engine side of the firewal/footwell/hump.

I had wanted to spray the firewall when my dash was apart, but that's a road too far time now that I've put it all back together. My just liner seems to be doing OK, but definetly want to knock down some of the noise and heat in the cab. I may end up doing a raptor coat for the floor in the back as I'm planning to build out an RV setup eventually.

I've used both.

For the amount of surface area you're looking to cover the spray in may be easier. It'll require a bit more prep work. But spraying it on is much easier than rolling on the Damplifier. All that said both are great products. I'd get at one or two sheets of Damplifier for each door. You really don't need full coverage in them for these trucks and that one sheet will kill most of the vibrations. It's been years since I did our 80's floor and doors with the Damplifier Pro. It did wonders and made the old truck almost as silient the 200... kinda almost

My only concern with spraying is I'll need to get a much bigger compressor than my current pancake one.

Thanks everyone for the historical trends and performance of these products.

 

[prwillard2]

Clean. "Echo! Echo! Echo!"

A lot of people use Lizard Skin spray in which looks immensely easier than rolling rolling rolling deadener film into all those hills and valleys.

Thanks for the recommendation. Haven't really looked into Lizard Skin, but will compare with the Spectrum. The Lizard Skin seems a little more expensive as well.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Two comments about the Damplifier Pro: It's extremely sticky once you peel the backing. Even the slightest touch is hard to pull off. You should lay it down and roll it to form and then pull the backing off a little at a time like you were placing a decal - if that makes sense. Second, wear good gloves, like kevlar gloves. The edges are very sharp.

Edit: The butyl is only effective where it is actively stuck to the metal. Air pockets don't do you much good. In several places I had to slice the Damplifier to get the air pockets out. Again, make sure you have 100% contact where you use it. Also, as others have already said, you don't need 100% coverage for it to be effective.

I think you should use the Damplifier where it's relatively easy to place and then use the Spectrum around the Damplifier and in more inaccessible areas.

 

[John Young]

Haven't used their spray-on product so can't compare, but just used the Damplifier Pro on my front door innards and was happy with it. They usually have a blem sale once or twice a year plus the 7/4 sale and I think a Memorial Day one. Was able to grab several sheets during the last blem sale. They're fine. Nobody is going to see them. Worth signing up for their newsletter for heads-up if you have time.

Believe the Fit Garage guys use the SS spray on builds. Or they did on that blue troopy build. Knuckle tested it next to mine when I was there last year. Solid thud-thud.

I have been reasonably happy with the rather inexpensive Noico product available

Let there be light!

Stedi 7" IRIS LED headlights

View attachment 3388971

Paul, were these the headlights you used? One of mine had burned out on my troopy and I had to borrow one from the pickup to pass inspection, so I am in the market for a pair.

And what do you think now that you have them? Any niggles or thoughts about other choices?

 

[prwillard2]

I have been reasonably happy with the rather inexpensive Noico product available

Paul, were these the headlights you used? One of mine had burned out on my troopy and I had to borrow one from the pickup to pass inspection, so I am in the market for a pair.

And what do you think now that you have them? Any niggles or thoughts about other choices?

John, those were the exact headlights I used. I like them a lot because it doesn't require a piggyback harness or any other relay. The canbus plugs into the OEM wiring plug, straight to the headlights.

They were easy to get aimed and they're bright as heck. Makes it feel like I'm driving a modern vehicle at night.

 

[prwillard2]

Alright, having what I think are some transmission/clutch related issues. Sometimes it is very difficult to "find" second gear. I attempt to shift into second, and it's very hard to move the shifter into position.

Moving to third, I nearly ALWAYS hear gears grinding, even with the clutch ALL the way to the floor.

Letting off the gas in third, I can visibly see the shifter jerk down about a half inch and it sounds like the 100 series driveline "clunk".

Zero issues shifting into 4th or 5th gear.

I'm going to grease my axle shafts here soon, but any ideas on my issues with 2nd and 3rd?

Also, my clutch seems to be weeping, as the outside of the housing is moist.

 

[John Young]

Maybe your clutch is not disengaging completely due to a bad slave cylinder? Just a thought.

 

[prwillard2]

Maybe your clutch is not disengaging completely due to a bad slave cylinder? Just a thought.

I haven't replaced the slave. My master is relatively new. I'll get under and take a look at the slave tomorrow morning.

How difficult is it to replace?

 

[OGBeno]

Synchros.

You need to rebuild the transmission.

Guaranteed.

You are driving a 25+ year old truck that’s been hammered on before you got it.

None of this is rocket science. Don’t delude yourself into thinking you got a diamond….

 

[prwillard2]

Synchros.

You need to rebuild the transmission.

Guaranteed.

You are driving a 25+ year old truck that’s been hammered on before you got it.

None of this is rocket science. Don’t delude yourself into thinking you got a diamond….

Had a feeling this may have been the problem.

No delusions here thinking I got some superb specimen.

Once my 200 is rebuilt from her accident in a couple months I need to get a serious overall done on this troopy. I need to reach out to some of the NorCal shops (or Fit Garage) and see what their schedule is like.

No SoCal shops I know of that handle 70s regularly

 

[OGBeno]

There is only one shop to trust with your transmission assembly.

Remove your trans/xfer and put it on a pallet and send it to Georg at Valley Hybrids. @orangefj45

A week to ten days later or so it returns and it’s golden for another 25 years.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

X2 on using Georg. He rebuilt my H150F last year. I had a broken reverse shift fork and some dodgy synchros. Fork must have gotten broken during shipment from Jeddah.

It looked brand new when I got it back.

 

[orangefj45]

Thanks for the kind words guys. Yes we can certainly help ……. it’s what we do!!!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com