Builds Ole Blue 60 gets a fresh start- EFI and more (5 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

What's that device bolted to the fender??

It is a PowerSurge. It allows you to use the stock fuel pump. The sniper needs roughly 60# so you need a high pressure pump.

I used one on My FJ55 and it is quiet and works great.
 
Thanks, I do know about the Powersurge, (have one). I meant the small electrical device with the single wire, in the pic about the tach wire.
 
Thanks, I do know about the Powersurge, (have one). I meant the small electrical device with the single wire, in the pic about the tach wire.

Maybe that is a leftover from My AFI. Not sure. I’ll figure that out today.
 
Thanks, I do know about the Powersurge, (have one). I meant the small electrical device with the single wire, in the pic about the tach wire.
Maybe that is a leftover from My AFI. Not sure. I’ll figure that out today.

I think it’s there to reduce ignition interference with the radio. It was there in stock form.
 
I figured out that the open plug was the tach. I tapped it into the yellow wire in the AFI loom and into the tach plug on the DUI and the factory tach now works.

The other issue I was dealing with was getting the throttle correct. The AFI will tell you if you have the correct throttle position.

The setup I started with would not work and the arm was twisting on the shaft inside the pedal.

So....

F2A5B662-1A55-4563-8090-148D5EFE0343.jpeg


I tacked the washer to the arm and reinstalled a good lock washer and cracked it down

9383DB6E-2286-4FFA-A08A-E1F89DE96089.jpeg


Then I grabbed a FJ60 headlight adjustment grommet and opened the end up on the pedal to fit

12FACA69-F857-44C8-BDBD-25856256E801.jpeg


When I put it all in the truck I found the cable did not line up perfect with the firewall guide so I pulled it all back out and egged our the holes to adjust.

18A4B073-A539-4755-9F15-DE2E800D7B62.jpeg


I switched back to the Lokar bracket. With the adjustments all the way out and the floor bolt under the throttle all the way down I got it to 95% TPS.

C7272192-B142-47B1-AE09-66C1488B8FE6.jpeg
 
Yesterday before my throttle cable snapped I worked on my timing and discovered that I can’t advance my timing past zero degrees without the advance pod hitting the oil filter.

When my Dissy seats properly white the motor at top dead center, the Dissy is pointing at #5. Not #4.

Moving the Dissy 1 tooth over and the tip won’t drop all the way in.

I gave up after puling it out 5 times.

 
While I drink my whiskey and get my game plan to get the timing on Ole Blue correct I guess I’ll finish my update.

The sniper has a place for a 1/4” threaded rod for a round auto parts type air cleaner.

To be able to use the pimp OEM air cleaner wing nuts, chock up your all thread and tap it with a M6-1.00 tap for the perfect fit

B9272382-4DC9-4E42-9564-FBE8E7CC1A7D.jpeg


Also, turns out the head that was on my flat-top piston 2F was a dome piston head.

These obviously work together but there is no way I was getting correct compression

Adding this cop motor head that is actually correct for this block is going to be huge.

I shorted Cam a good head but the one he used for my truck was cheap so I reimbursed him.

4625AB97-C421-48F7-A1A7-E4124455428B.jpeg



Now if I can get the distributor right.....
 
Totally ready to kill over the distributor again today until the light came on.

None of the FSM stuff applies to this big DUI distributor. If you have an obstacle like a hose or oil filter blocking your way, spin the vacuum advance where it won’t hit anything. Line up the oil pump gear and put the Dissy in.

5548A403-6FEA-4D5F-B181-571B31357D1F.jpeg


Wherever the rotor is pointing is #1. Place wires accordingly.

3A9D584E-DF65-4742-88EA-E1D9EF4E9F22.jpeg


Holy crap that took me a while to work through.

Red helped me find TDC with her beautiful thumb

71EA4CA4-B465-4CD5-8C57-F896FA2D6972.jpeg
 
Got about 120 miles on the new Mosley Motors HiPo head in the last 2 days.

7C24A9B9-4EB2-40C3-8277-CA81A598609A.jpeg



Everything is working perfect. I was having a dull throttle off low cruising RPM yesterday so this morning I de-gapped my OE plugs down to .040 and bumped the timing to 11

Now it is running perfectly. I could not be more pleased.

Here are the final engine bay shots. No leaks. No squeaks. It’s tight tight. Happy.

A129B2F3-BB03-43EB-8A06-DD8197B99E6F.jpeg


9F294A82-E00C-4B80-A14C-A6619C66F550.jpeg


8D53AD4A-A5F1-429E-A87C-41EA99B08DFF.jpeg


482ED507-ADFA-4B5C-89DE-2B89D30B91AE.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I read back and don’t see that I mentioned this.

Way back almost 2 years ago I started this build from a fresh motor from a big box engine rebuilder.

The seller had a problem with the first one he got from them and while waiting on the second one, he punted the project and had @FJ60Cam install an LS into his FJ60.

I happily took the motor and it’s been fine. Thought it was pretty peppy until I got the fully built 4.4 Cop Motor in my FJ55.

Head work was the easiest.

As I mentioned we were happy it had 1.50 over pistons. Besides a custom ground cam, this should get me a much better setup.

Turns out the head that was on this motor was a DOMED piston head on my Flat Top piston block.

So. This went much better than expected.

Here are some videos taking it through the paces. I’d say I’m still 25% less woopow than the Warthog 4.4 but I’m easily 50% better than what I had

Remember, speedo indicates 10 mph slow. 3.70s, 4 speed with true 33” 255/85-16s



 
Great read, super cool to hear how much better she runs with the Sniper. You should throw her on a Dyno.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom