Builds OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77 (1 Viewer)

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I had a jumpy needle with a lot of noise in my HZJ77. Replacing the speedometer cable that goes from the transmission to the cluster with a new OEM cable fixed the problem. Not a fun job.

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I'm hoping I might be able to extract the cable from the sheath, clean, lube, reinstall? Need to inspect the housing first to make sure it isn't compromised. At first I was just thinking I'd be able to squirt something down the end, but heh. Not a lot of room there, is there! Replacing the cable altogether may be the ultimate end to this particular saga. Can't say I'm looking forward to the possibility.
 
I'm hoping I might be able to extract the cable from the sheath, clean, lube, reinstall? Need to inspect the housing first to make sure it isn't compromised. At first I was just thinking I'd be able to squirt something down the end, but heh. Not a lot of room there, is there! Replacing the cable altogether may be the ultimate end to this particular saga. Can't say I'm looking forward to the possibility.

The new one was only $42 dollars at the time I got it. P/N: 8371090K06 For that price, I would just replace it instead of trying to clean the old one. The P/N I just mentioned is applicable to my HZJ77 so double check if it is for yours also if you order that specific P/N.
 
Yeah, I've got it in my virtual shopping cart in virtual Dubai, along with some other bits and pieces. But it doesn't come with labor. LOL. If they sold one that installed itself, I'd be more interested? I'll probably end up getting one, and taking this all apart again to redo the job I should've done properly the first time. But why would I start making sense at this point?
 
Yeah, I've got it in my virtual shopping cart in virtual Dubai, along with some other bits and pieces. But it doesn't come with labor. LOL. If they sold one that installed itself, I'd be more interested? I'll probably end up getting one, and taking this all apart again to redo the job I should've done properly the first time. But why would I start making sense at this point?

True. It is not a fun job but I am seeing you do way more labor intensive tasks / upgrades on your HZJ77 already. I am not sure if the cable is easily serviceable either. It didn't appear to be but I do have the old one still to look at again to be sure.

If you can find someone extra with small hands...then the job of installing a new one might be a lot easier lol. I did it alone and it sucked.

Sorry for muddling up your thread. Hope you get it all sorted out.
 
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Speedo is rumbling and grumbling, especially in the cold. Time to attempt a fix. But its -20C outside, so I'm starting with the cluster, and its now inside the house. Going to try some tips from @EscapeWagon62 's excellent thread from his 60 series, referenced here:

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Also, giant shoutout to whoever suggested two spoons to pull the speedo needle. Can't find the reference now, but it worked brilliantly! SPOON man!
(Yes, the speedo needle wrapped around and snapped off. The piece was resting in the bottom. And no, I wasn't actually going THAT fast).
Your welcome
 
Today I discoed the speedo cable from the trans side as well and then pulled the whole inner cable out through the bottom. Sent some cleaner and compressed air down the sheath, cleaned and lube the cable, and ran it back up again. My drive around the block was quiet (well, this is a 1hz so by "quiet" I mean the instrument cluster) but inconclusive since it was above zero. We'll put this one in the "maybe" column for now.

Then I did some more work on my compressor install.

Given the high level of fabrication common here on the forum, and the attention to detail, I'm a little loathe to post pics of my meagre mount solution, but I guess it's no worse than some of the other stuff I've cobbled together? 🤣:hillbilly:

Drilled the holes in my mounting plate and mocked it in place. Also played with some fittings, elbows, manifold, etc...

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Still not sure how I'm going to connect airline yet. My old quick connect is not the easiest to mate up, esp with gloves on, or if there's dust and dirt, so I probably should look at buying a new setup. But at least the compressor is getting close to wiring now.
 
Sunday's drive was quiet at the speedo level, so I cautiously reassembled, and stabbed my re-repaired speedo needle back on again. I'm going to have to look at sourcing one someday methinks. But also found two burned out bulbs which explained why my cluster was a little dim at times.

Much better!
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Today I'm hoping to attach the other end of the compressor harness to the switch...
 
Put some miles on the speedo (with needle reattached) and am happy to report back that so far, jumpiness is gone, and so is the noise. And I managed to get the needle back on correctly, since its still optimistic by 10kmh, and I feel great that I'm "going the speed limit" unless someone's following me and bursts my illusion over the radio. :)

Got a chance to try out my ever evolving kitchen and storage setup last weekend too, and its starting to feel like I'm getting there...
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Looking pretty posh there Phil, nice setup, and glad it is working out well for you! I really like thems milwaukee lego containers from the depot. I have made a mental note of them for when I am done moving and will start working on the trailer again in the spring. Happy you are getting out! 👍
 
Hooked up and finished off the ARB compressor install today. Used an elbow and a short length of hose to plumb the quick connect through the lower valence in place of a headlight washer.
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Couldn't get it to work at first. Rechecked everything and realized I had reversed two wires on the through the firewall harness (you put the plug together after you poke it through). Fixed that and still nothing. Of course the reversed wires had blown the 5.amp fuse in the harness. Once I figured that out, it worked like a charm. Chased down a few leaks and now it holds pressure indefinitely.

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I am redoing the cigarette plug on the dash so it's switched 12 v from the rear battery, so I used the 24v (ignition switched) power to fire the compressor relay. And while I was there, I used the outlet's light lead to light the new ARB switch.

Edit: I did buy the ARB air up kit. The quick connect alone was worth it, and a nice airline too.
 
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Are you taking 12V from just one battery? Simple, but maybe not that good idea. Batteries in a 24V setup are very sensitive to unbalanced load.
Due to the simple charging technology in our trucks, the batteries are already challenge in that regard. Taking 12V from one battery significantly adds to the issue.
I had that same setup, installed by the PO, who took 12V for the cigarette lighter socket and the stereo from one battery. The battery craped out soon.
I put a 24-12V DC DC converter and also a charging load balancer to ensure equal charging. It has indicator LED on it: One can see that it really has to work hard only to balance the unequal load from the charging system.
Just my 5 €cent
Cheers
Ralf
 
Are you taking 12V from just one battery? Simple, but maybe not that good idea. Batteries in a 24V setup are very sensitive to unbalanced load.
Due to the simple charging technology in our trucks, the batteries are already challenge in that regard. Taking 12V from one battery significantly adds to the issue.
I had that same setup, installed by the PO, who took 12V for the cigarette lighter socket and the stereo from one battery. The battery craped out soon.
I put a 24-12V DC DC converter and also a charging load balancer to ensure equal charging. It has indicator LED on it: One can see that it really has to work hard only to balance the unequal load from the charging system.
Just my 5 €cent
Cheers
Ralf
Nope. This is a 24v compressor. And 24 volts to foglights. I have a 24v->12v converter for the third battery in the back that will serve all my 12v needs.
 
had that same setup, installed by the PO, who took 12V for the cigarette lighter socket and the stereo from one battery. The battery craped out soon

Are you suggesting I'm unbalanced? 🤪

Stereo runs off factory converter. Lighter socket, as I said above, will get 12v from a third battery in the back. Main batteries (24v from 12v x 2 in series) only run the truck factory systems, the compressor, and the 24->12 converter. Batteries are expensive - I have no plans to for their premature demise.

Although... Most 70 series owners I know are a little "off" so... maybe you're on to something?
 
Just a few notes on the 24volt hookup:
Pay careful attention to your battery positions, and note which battery is "1" and which is "2" according to the instructions. The 12v and 24v hookup sequence is side by side in the supplied literature. There are some differences.
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ARB supplies a nice sealed harness, but there is some bulk to it, so be prepared to deal with the excess. The fender cavity behind the batteries is as good a place as any.

Also, the relay is looking for 24volts to switch it on - tapping the in dash cigar socket is a simple source for ignition switched power. I used the socket's light circuit to light the switch too, so it lights up with the rest of the switches when the lights are switched on.
 
had that same setup, installed by the PO, who took 12V for the cigarette lighter socket and the stereo from one battery. The battery craped out soon

Are you suggesting I'm unbalanced? 🤪

Stereo runs off factory converter. Lighter socket, as I said above, will get 12v from a third battery in the back. Main batteries (24v from 12v x 2 in series) only run the truck factory systems, the compressor, and the 24->12 converter. Batteries are expensive - I have no plans to for their premature demise.

Although... Most 70 series owners I know are a little "off" so... maybe you're on to something?
Sorry. I didn't intend to offend anybody.
 

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