Oil Recommendations and Discussion Thread for FAQ (3 Viewers)

[Gray Rider]

The most recent post on this thread seems to be over a year old unless I am missing something.

I'm thinking M-1 Syn 5w30 extended performance with M-1 filter.

Any new opinions, i.e. Pandora's Box?

 

[BullElk]

the thicker you go, the more damage you do during cold start up

Well mine has 387ish K miles now drinking 20-50 most of its life. Just think how many miles she would get with a thinner drink.

 

[Gray Rider]

Well mine has 387ish K miles now drinking 20-50 most of its life. Just think how many miles she would get with a thinner drink.

Well with or without thinner or thicker, what is your opinion?
Thanks!

 

[BullElk]

I know a lot less than you veteran Mudmeisters but I have noticed this.....

I do not have oil dripping but do loose some oil somewhere, I loose noticeably more with the thinner oil than the thicker 20-50, the biggest decrease in oil loss has been since adding AT-205 reseal. Also, I've done nothing to the engine in 300+k miles.

 

[BullElk]

I hear ya Mikray. My lack of wisdom always thought that the thicker oil would not drain down near as fast (similar to what I thought synthetic oil does) and thus coat the engine compartments better as it waits on start up. Is that not what is most desirable?

 

[OverLand Cruisers]

.
I've been using M1 5w-30. I have 166k total miles. Any benefits to going to M1 5w-40 now?

Bump.
Ditto, I've been running M1 5W-30 & am thinking about going to M1 5W-40 as well....125K and live in the high desert....hmmm.

 

[86tuning]

I hear ya Mikray. My lack of wisdom always thought that the thicker oil would not drain down near as fast (similar to what I thought synthetic oil does) and thus coat the engine compartments better as it waits on start up. Is that not what is most desirable?

Not really. Thinner oils will pump faster and get to the bearings more quickly on a cold start. In the moderate weather here, I use Toyota 0w20 synthetic on my engine. 78,000 miles. No consumption or leaking issues. As long as the oil pressure at idle when hot is adequate, I see no need for a heavier oil.

On a high miler, I would stick to a 5w30 oil here. In warmer climates you can run a heavier oil if you like.

 

[Kernal]

I started getting regular engine oil analysis done a few years ago and found slightly elevated lead levels. For years I had been using Mobil 1 5w-30, 10W-30 and sometimes 0W-30 when it turned cold. So I eventually switched to Mobil 1 5W-40 TDT and the lead levels went from a high of 17ppm down to 7ppm then to an average of 2ppm. Question is, were the high lead readings caused by something stuck in a bearing causing a streak or were they due to the lighter viscosity and lower ZDDP in the oil?? IDK. IME getting an occasional engine oil analysis provided some data to help make a decision on which oil my engine "liked" best. FWIW.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

It's a dilemma for sure, but given that even average factory maintenance results in 300K miles of service, I don't think it matters a whole lot. I use Mobil 1 for no good reason. Just always use it. Either 15w-50, 10w-40 High Mileage, or 0w-40 "European formula". My climate is moderate and hot briefly in the summer. The cooling system maintenance is more important than what oil I used. Using 0W-40 right now. I may stick with that.

I don't use any Xw-30 oil because the pressure looks low at idle. It may not be low, but it looks low and stresses me out, so I don't use it.

I applaud guys who do oil analysis because it gives the illusion of science to our oil change schedule, but for passenger vehicles, especially 20 year old ones, it's overkill.

Here's what's going to kill your Land Cruiser:
1-It's going to overheat and fawk everything. Too expensive to be worth repairing.
2-The autobox is going to croak and be too expensive to be worth fixing.
3-It's going to be in an accident and be too expensive to be worth fixing.

None of these are dependent on what oil you use.

 

[DSRTRDR]

I once heard the "oil speech" - all 45 minutes of it . . .

coming back from a long wheeling day and still having to go over an hour on the highway, Tools used "oil" as a topic on the CB to keep himself (and us) awake

and since all our cruisers are in Arizona or Louisiana, we use 20W50

 

[kendrick]

Im probably going to get flamed for this but a little confused. Im new to the LC game, got a 94 couple months back. Been using this forum a lot to fix all the little things. The forum has been a HUGE help. Thanks guys

I live in Toronto Canada, our national store for most general automotive is "Canadian Tire". They are having a sale on Rotella T: | Canadian Tire

Whats the difference in formula between the T, T5, and T6 and is it ok to run this diesel engine oil in my 94?

 

[Oscar Witte]

Im probably going to get flamed for this but a little confused. Im new to the LC game, got a 94 couple months back. Been using this forum a lot to fix all the little things. The forum has been a HUGE help. Thanks guys

I live in Toronto Canada, our national store for most general automotive is "Canadian Tire". They are having a sale on Rotella T: | Canadian Tire

Whats the difference in formula between the T, T5, and T6 and is it ok to run this diesel engine oil in my 94?

In the FAQ they said to disregard the fact that it is diesel oil, it's fine. I'm not sure on the different shell t's

 

[4G63 POWER]

lol so true. I laugh at all the over analysis of oil. I use eneos currently. Filters? Just make sure you add these magnets they are worth there weight in gold >> SUPER Black Hole 4 Pack Oil Filter Magnets





None of these are dependent on what oil you use.[/QUOTE]


Here's what's going to kill your Land Cruiser:
1-It's going to overheat and fawk everything. Too expensive to be worth repairing.
2-The autobox is going to croak and be too expensive to be worth fixing.
3-It's going to be in an accident and be too expensive to be worth fixing.

None of these are dependent on what oil you use.[/QUOTE]

 

[White Stripe]

I use Tribodyne oil. I used their supercharger oil and noticed it was much quieter so I bought their engine oil also. I can tell the engine runs smoother. Their oil has moly in it which supposedly coats the metal and sticks to it. I also use a Napa platinum oil filter, not too much money and the filter media is much better than a Toyota filter.

 

[Jorgito]

Hello, need help regarding the auto trans ATF fluid. Having the 1997 FZJ80 I was looking into this one:

ATF FS (Full Syn.)

It's fully synthetic and it's DEXRON III compatible.

ATF FS Multi-Vehicle can be used in GM Holden Astra, Barina, Zafira and Vectra 4 and 5 speed automatic transmissions. It can also be used in Chrysler / Dodge & Jeep automatic transmissions where ATF+3® or ATF+4® fluids are required. It can also be used where GM DEXRON® II/III fluids are recommended by the manufacturer.

Being in Europe the M1 ATF it's not available here but Penrite is.

Thanks.

 

[2001LC]

Hello, need help regarding the auto trans ATF fluid. Having the 1997 FZJ80 I was looking into this one:

ATF FS (Full Syn.)

It's fully synthetic and it's DEXRON III compatible.

ATF FS Multi-Vehicle can be used in GM Holden Astra, Barina, Zafira and Vectra 4 and 5 speed automatic transmissions. It can also be used in Chrysler / Dodge & Jeep automatic transmissions where ATF+3® or ATF+4® fluids are required. It can also be used where GM DEXRON® II/III fluids are recommended by the manufacturer.

Being in Europe the Super 1 ATF it's not available here but Penrite is.

Thanks.

I've used the M1 FS M-V ATF for years in my 01LC transmission & power steering. Work great!

 

[Jorgito]

I've used the M1 FS M-V ATF for years in my 01LC transmission & power steering. Work great!

You wrote "I've used the M1 M-V ATF" did you actually meant Penrite instead of M1 ?

Jorge

 

[2001LC]

No M1 is what I use. (Mobil One full synthetic multi vehicle ATF). But any good synthetic is better than conventional.

 

[Montana Cruzr]

Thank you Romer...your discussion with synthetic oil in older vehicle, was what I needed to see. I have been told for years...to never do it on vehicles older than 10 years....my ‘91 is of course 25+ years old. The concerns were that the synthetics had cleaners....and when run through an older rig and blows out or cleans the gunk.....said vehicle runs from crappy from that day on....because...the gunk was actually helping with compression....when gunk removed from the additives/cleaners...no more compression.... Thank you again.

 

[Ian Mac]

Switching to Synthetic over 100,000 miles

Question/Answer From Mobil Site: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...tic_Motor_Oil_in_Higher_Mileage_Vehicles.aspx

Switching to Synthetic Oil in Higher Mileage Vehicles
Does switching from a petroleum-based oil to a fully synthetic oil on a higher mileage vehicle (75,000 miles) have any harmful effects? I've heard that the synthetic oil, because it is cleaner, may actually loosen some of the build-up from petroleum oil and has the potential of clogging the pump. Is this true or does one simply need to change the filter more frequently for the first few thousand miles after switching? Thanks
-- Michael Ritzke, Appleton, WI

When switching to Mobil 1 in higher mileage vehicles, we recommend an initial short (2,000 to 3,000 miles) oil change, both oil and filter. This will allow Mobil 1 to clean some of the engine deposits that have accumulated over time. Following this initial short oil change, continue with your normal oil change interval.​

You should be fine switching to synthetic, I have done so on several cars with over 100,000 miles with no problems (in one I even had lower oil consumption). The reason that you hear that you shouldn't switch on high mile cars comes from the original Mobil 1 back in the 80's when they didn't put a seal sweller in the oil. With older cars that had marginal seals the extra cleaning in the Mobil would flush all the gunk out and they would leak like mad. Once mobile started to put the seal swell in, the problem went away.

When I bought my 97 40th Anniversary last year, it had 137k miles and when I did the first oil change I put pure synthetic in it, and every 1500-2000 miles it seems to come up 1-2qts low on oil. Do these 1FZs burn synthetic more than conventional? Or should I be concerned about something else?