4Cruisers
SILVER Star
11253-60010 - list price w/o MUD (or other) discount $15.75
Oil pan/ side cover gasket stuff....(FAQ) (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Poser
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
So I’m replacing my clutch and trying to address everything I can while I’m at it on my 77 40. Got the tranny out, clutch removed and used my bottle jack and a 2x4 to separate the oil pan from the block. I’m stuck trying to remove the last two bolts to the #4 bearing cap to replace the rear main seal and I can’t get those bolts to come free. Even hit them with the pneumatic impact and they won’t budge. Ive owned the truck since 85 have not dropped the tranny before now, but a PO has because the tranny cover is bent where the shifter opening is, so I’m wondering if someone else over torqued these bolts.
Any suggestions for getting these out?
Any suggestions for getting these out?
3 foot breaker bar?
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Why do you need to pull the #4 bearing cap?
RustyNailJustin
Supporting Vendor
If you don't have one of these yet... this thing blows the doors off my snap on air impact
77mustard40
SILVER Star
Replacing the rear main seal
Thanks, great excuse to hit the deck and get one
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Sorry, I just reread the whole thread. I did not remember having problems putting my rear main in but it was also during a full rebuild and was hanging on an engine hoist.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
No worries, I’m seeping oil from the rear main and from the oil cooler so I’m going to replace the o-rings there and replace the gasket to the oil filter bracket. When everything is wet it’s tough to tell where it’s coming from, but the front timing cover is dry
don't underestimate the valve cover gasket. it looks like a rear main, too, when it drips down the back to the bell house. I'd use a longer bar before hitting those bolts with an Impact gub... HTH
g-man
SILVER Star
FWIW I hit my oil pan with a rubber mallet down near the bottom on each side to break the baked on gasket loose from the block. I think this method is much better than taking a screwdriver or flat edge to the gasket and pan and possibly bending the pan.
Also the FSM says to coat the area with sealer BEFORE installing the 1 and 4 main bearing caps. How important is this ...I didn't see any sealer there when I pulled off the #4 main bearing cap. Why before the main bear cap? Is this just the area where the corner of the pan mates? Not the surface mating area of the bearing cap right?
Also the FSM says to coat the area with sealer BEFORE installing the 1 and 4 main bearing caps. How important is this ...I didn't see any sealer there when I pulled off the #4 main bearing cap. Why before the main bear cap? Is this just the area where the corner of the pan mates? Not the surface mating area of the bearing cap right?
it gets sealer at the front and rear mains so the split main cap doesn't leak...
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There is the ‘pinch’ where the cap meets the block that is important to seal, but yes, you shouldn’t get sealant between the cap and block mating surfaces.
Any you couldn’t really access the front cap without breaching the even-more-difficult seal of the timing cover plate gasket to the front of the block.
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Will Van
GOLD Star
Dumb question - When you say you use sealer "on both sides of the gasket that fit into the grooves of the #1 and #4 main bearing cap," you mean that you put sealer on both the pan-to-gasket-side AND on the gasket-to-block-side of the gasket at both the front and rear main bearing caps, correct?
Same question about, "and on the corners." Do you put sealant on both the pan-to-gasket-side and on the gasket-to-block-side of the gasket in the corners of the pan?
Finally, do you have any tips/tricks for installing the front timing plate? Don't over-tighten the oil squirter?
- Thread starter
- #96
Yes, that would be BOTH SIDES OF THE GASKET.
Yes.
Best tip?
Do not remove it! The thing is staked in place at the factory and does not need to come out.
If you are going to hot tank everything, leave the plate out so that the soft metal does not get ruined.
It is easy enough to clean by its self.
Will Van
GOLD Star
Thanks! That’s what I thought. I just wanted to be explicitly clear that you put gasket maker on both the pan-to-gasket side and gasket-to-block side AND on both the #1 bearing side and the #4 bearing side of the gasket. Four “sides” total.
Best tip?
Do not remove it! The thing is staked in place at the factory and does not need to come out.
If you are going to hot tank everything, leave the plate out so that the soft metal does not get ruined.
It is easy enough to clean by its self.
Too late. The PO already removed it and overtightened it during the previous rebuild. You can see where it marked the front of the block. It was also leaking at the front timing cover/front plate.
I am getting ready to install my oil pan gasket and was wondering what the harm would be to put a bead of sealant around the entire gasket (both sides) instead of just the ends?
John McVicker
SILVER Star
My thinking is:
A) it is not necessary on the straight part in order to get a good seal. No benefit to doing this...so, why?
B) just another unneeded obstacle to deal with the next time you remove the oil pan.
Don‘t suppose it can do any harm, but if it‘s not necessary, why do it.
A) it is not necessary on the straight part in order to get a good seal. No benefit to doing this...so, why?
B) just another unneeded obstacle to deal with the next time you remove the oil pan.
Don‘t suppose it can do any harm, but if it‘s not necessary, why do it.
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pistonpete
SILVER Star
Thanks to all in here, this thread was helpful today. I want to share a Kool tool I came across on you tube. Makes the install so easy 
Installing an Oil Pan Gasket with Fel-Pro SnapUps®
Installing an Oil Pan Gasket with Fel-Pro SnapUps®
